madamesalacious
Member
Our Seattle Woodland Park Zoo sells "zoo doo" each year. I used to buy it, but since I grow organic in soil, and found out from a friend and zookeeper that the beasties are often fed antibiotics routinely, I've stopped.
Unconventional Organics
- Thread starter malignant
- Start date
thecosmicgoat
Well-Known Member
Im curious about using fresh kelp in compost tea. I've also started using soil from the forest in my teas. I have also been finding lately bear poop full of salmon carcasses, Im thinking of collecting some to compost? Bear manure full of fish enzymes its got to be good?
boblawblah421
Well-Known Member
You should definitely not need to dilute this. Don't use it as a foliar during the heat of the day and you should be good.
Try making it without the fish. Then try making it without the guano. Try it again without the fish and the guano.
Diversity is good.
Less is more.
Experiment with your recipe. I like to brew my teas with the microbes for a few hours, and then ad the food sources. It seems to foam up super quickly once I ad my molasses/kelp if the microbes are already active in the water. Then the foam seems to go away quite rapidly as well, and you're left with a dank ass compost tea. The molasses smell goes away a little, and you can just smell that your tea is ready.
I also like to brew my teas kind of on the stout side. I brew enough for about a day and a half, and dilute it after I've used about 60-70% as soon as it's ready. Stout on one day, and weak the next.
boblawblah421
Well-Known Member
If nothing else, I can almost guarantee that bear shit'll keep the deer, moles, etc out of your garden under the sun. I'd compost some down and use it in a year. See what happens.
I am also curious about getting down on some local kelp. It's not gonna be ascophyllum nodosum, but I bet it's just as good.
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
The sawdust is more than likely inoculated with LAB (lacto acid bacillus) it is used in BOKASHI composting, which in this case instead of kitchen scraps it is human waste.
It would be Humipost? as in Human dung compost. Even better if everyone is healthy and on a organic vegan diet!
I just don't know if I would eat anything grown by my shit, I would probably smoke my shit though!. I'm probably smoked someone's shit before, well I know I have smoked some stuff that taste like shit!
DankSwag
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
WORD TO THOSE LOOKING TO SAVE SOME $$$
CloneX verses Straight Aloe Vera
Enough said.... Clone on left CloneX produced, clones on right Aloe Vera straight from the plant!
Same size clones, same soil base, light, water, temp and humidity. Even the shorter Aloe Clones to the right have more branch nodes compared to the cloneX on the left.
I had several cloneX clones this one was best of them all yet lagging behind the Aloe clones.
Not to mention all the Aloe Vera clones were topped days ago and I am still waiting on this clonex to develop more branch nodes so I can top her.
You can see easily the growth number of branch nodes, clearly no need to over pay for CloneX when you can grow your own Aloe Vera as a rooting gel.
A close view CloneX on Left Aloe Vera on right
DankSwag
Seeing is believing. I will never again use CloneX if I have Aloe Vera on hand!
CloneX verses Straight Aloe Vera
Enough said.... Clone on left CloneX produced, clones on right Aloe Vera straight from the plant!
Same size clones, same soil base, light, water, temp and humidity. Even the shorter Aloe Clones to the right have more branch nodes compared to the cloneX on the left.
I had several cloneX clones this one was best of them all yet lagging behind the Aloe clones.
Not to mention all the Aloe Vera clones were topped days ago and I am still waiting on this clonex to develop more branch nodes so I can top her.
You can see easily the growth number of branch nodes, clearly no need to over pay for CloneX when you can grow your own Aloe Vera as a rooting gel.
A close view CloneX on Left Aloe Vera on right
DankSwag
Seeing is believing. I will never again use CloneX if I have Aloe Vera on hand!
Farmer's Hat
Well-Known Member
Using milk on your compost and in your garden will probably come as a surprise to most. Upon closer inspection, however, it starts to make sense. The amino acids, proteins, enzymes and natural sugars that make milk a food for humans and animals are the same ingredients in nurturing healthy communities of microbes, fungi and beneficial bacteria in your compost and garden soil.
read more http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/milk-and-molasses-magic-zbcz1402.aspx#axzz2w0dnplCV
read more http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/milk-and-molasses-magic-zbcz1402.aspx#axzz2w0dnplCV
Native Humboldt
Well-Known Member
I have been using fat free milk on powdery mildew for a couple of years. It really does work as long as the mildew is not out of control and the plants love it. I mix the milk I part to 9 parts water then store the left over in the refrigerator. I will try and remove the worst leaves then spray the plant down heavy. I would use it with caution as with any liquid toward the end of bloom to prevent brown mold. After the first spray wait a few days and hit it again. It has worked to control the PM in my garden for a couple years now and the plants love it. I will even do a preventive spray on my clones when there over crowded before planting.
VTMi'kmaq
Well-Known Member
screw it i dont mind sharing some of my favorite tools for happy ladies here's one. https://oceansolution.com/ your welcome.
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
the milk and molasses article is supremely fascinating. Native Humbolt, you said you use skim milk, is that organic skim from a local dairy or just something you pick up at the local grocery? or is raw milk better? I really love the idea of being able to use milk on the garden--anyone else have tips/experience with this?
Countyboy88
Member
I make a homemade LAB with the milk and rice wash method. Works great. Trying SST with mung beans now courtesy of hyroots method. Used some right away, and froze the rest in ice cube trays for later. I wanna explore FPE's more if anyone has any good leads/experience... Nettles? ...comfrey? Anything?
I dont post often, but man, ive been learning tons and things are looking great. Thanks for sharing everyone!
I dont post often, but man, ive been learning tons and things are looking great. Thanks for sharing everyone!
st0wandgrow
Well-Known Member
Yes and yes. Dandelions are a good, plentiful, free item that can be fermented as well.
Check this link out. It's got some good info ...
https://www.frenchgardening.com/tech.html?pid=3164873867231346
st0wandgrow
Well-Known Member
Sorry guys. This goober started a thread worrying about a single $7 seed that he ordered, and he's now apparently going to follow me around. I'm flattered.
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
Can I stalk you stow
...creeper smile. I'm recently interested in the frenchy style fermenting. Seen great results and very concentrated.
...creeper smile. I'm recently interested in the frenchy style fermenting. Seen great results and very concentrated.infocapitol
New Member
From what I heard, unless you drink and bathe in purified water and eat all vegan and organic, I wouldn't recommend using that method. I have never tried the method though. I do know you only want to use herbivore manure for compost. I assume it would be the same for fertilizer. Just my two cents.
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Question about nettles, I've read where people let leaves and stems soak in non areated water left outside to break down outside where it becomes anaerobic and really smelly and you have to dilute it to use it.
So my thinking why not avoid the risk of bringing in harmful bacteria to the soil which could disrupt fungi balance and possible lower levels of aerobic bacteria by breaking down the leaves and stems in aerated water bucket.
After two days I have some slight foam on top very little and a wonderful smelling lightly greenish yellow water that appears to have the bio activators or the appearance of due to how the water color has changed I can't help but think the biology in the plant matter is now in the water and I don't have to wait two weeks and it does not smell. I can just keep adding water and leaves when water color lightens to continue to bring these dynamic bio activators to my soil when watering correct?
Anywise I should probably do a side by one with out the aerated nettle water, one with the anaerobic diluted form and one plain h20.
Unless someone has experience using their nettles this way I'd like to know.
DankSwag
So my thinking why not avoid the risk of bringing in harmful bacteria to the soil which could disrupt fungi balance and possible lower levels of aerobic bacteria by breaking down the leaves and stems in aerated water bucket.
After two days I have some slight foam on top very little and a wonderful smelling lightly greenish yellow water that appears to have the bio activators or the appearance of due to how the water color has changed I can't help but think the biology in the plant matter is now in the water and I don't have to wait two weeks and it does not smell. I can just keep adding water and leaves when water color lightens to continue to bring these dynamic bio activators to my soil when watering correct?
Anywise I should probably do a side by one with out the aerated nettle water, one with the anaerobic diluted form and one plain h20.
Unless someone has experience using their nettles this way I'd like to know.
DankSwag
matthewskyle22
New Member
Gotta love organics!
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Two things to think about.....One, aerobic takes more energy to catalyze a reaction then an anaerobic process. Moiety's may be used up more in aerobic process and not catalyze into inorganic states as readily vian an anaerobic process.
So in essence, you may be getting less in one regard, however I do think that ubiquitous BIM are present in an aerobic soak as well as facultative organisms.
P.s. forgive me I have been out of the loop and am not uber technical by any means here, my apologies....
The 2nd point is difference of solutions....Not trying to berate you or nitpick, but think about the differences chemically. Aerobically, the pH may drop a little, but likely the DO will help buffer that, while fermentation [ideally] is very low pH and releases the stink and residual alcohol [methane] while essentially oxidizing [here is where facultative organisms [fungi [yeasts], bacteria and actinomycetes: may play the largest role in fermentation setup.]
Basically different solutions are going to produce different soluble combinations.
Water will definitely take out saponins, anthocyanins and sugar molecule bound moietys. But it will not liberate say terpenes or terpinoids, but a fermenting solution may be able to liberate either.
Why do I give a shit? I am interested in the same things, but I have used Stinging Nettle [Urtica dioica] as my main fertilizer now for the last 4 years.
I use brewer's water traps to slow my gas releases when fermenting and there is a trick that brewer's use, where they will put something like vinegar or even soda into the trap to neutralize the smell.
Realistically that smell should last short of 2 weeks if that in a well prepared run. Sometimes if done right, you could figure out how to attack the ammonia even faster, chemically...
I find that longer fermentation [6 months or so] does very well.... [should say 5 months of air tight storage following fermentation][ it starts smelling like the most incredible dirt, aka the dirt smell is a chemical produced by actinomycetes]
I can share more if interested, i.e titration amount and such
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Abiqua,Two things to think about.....One, aerobic takes more energy to catalyze a reaction then an anaerobic process. Moiety's may be used up more in aerobic process and not catalyze into inorganic states as readily vian an anaerobic process.
So in essence, you may be getting less in one regard, however I do think that ubiquitous BIM are present in an aerobic soak as well as facultative organisms.
P.s. forgive me I have been out of the loop and am not uber technical by any means here, my apologies....
The 2nd point is difference of solutions....Not trying to berate you or nitpick, but think about the differences chemically. Aerobically, the pH may drop a little, but likely the DO will help buffer that, while fermentation [ideally] is very low pH and releases the stink and residual alcohol [methane] while essentially oxidizing [here is where facultative organisms [fungi [yeasts], bacteria and actinomycetes: may play the largest role in fermentation setup.]
Basically different solutions are going to produce different soluble combinations.
Water will definitely take out saponins, anthocyanins and sugar molecule bound moietys. But it will not liberate say terpenes or terpinoids, but a fermenting solution may be able to liberate either.
Why do I give a shit? I am interested in the same things, but I have used Stinging Nettle [Urtica dioica] as my main fertilizer now for the last 4 years.
I use brewer's water traps to slow my gas releases when fermenting and there is a trick that brewer's use, where they will put something like vinegar or even soda into the trap to neutralize the smell.
Realistically that smell should last short of 2 weeks if that in a well prepared run. Sometimes if done right, you could figure out how to attack the ammonia even faster, chemically...
I find that longer fermentation [6 months or so] does very well.... [should say 5 months of air tight storage following fermentation][ it starts smelling like the most incredible dirt, aka the dirt smell is a chemical produced by actinomycetes]
I can share more if interested, i.e titration amount and such
Thanks for the post. Lot's for me to digest
I will get threw it, since seeing is believing can you detail your fermentation process and your application of the fertilizer. I really would like to duplicate what you use and how you use it and compare it to how I am currently using it. I'd appreciate that and I hope you don't mind if I ask you to put into layman's terms so of what you expounded upon already.
Much appreciated, may your harvest always be abundant and pleasing
DankSwag
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Abiqua,
Thanks for the post. Lot's for me to digest
I will get threw it, since seeing is believing can you detail your fermentation process and your application of the fertilizer. I really would like to duplicate what you use and how you use it and compare it to how I am currently using it. I'd appreciate that and I hope you don't mind if I ask you to put into layman's terms so of what you expounded upon already.
Much appreciated, may your harvest always be abundant and pleasing
DankSwag
Yes, I actually have been working on it and taking some samples now....more up Monday!