Is it ok to put seedlings straight into 5 gal buckets?

Illicithunter

Active Member
I'm about to start a 1000 watt tented grow and was wondering about seedlings started out in 5 gal pots instead of those tiny little square planters. I'm only growing one plant so I don't want to hassle with swapping up pots as it matures. Would this be ok or do I need to start out small?
 

dadio161

Well-Known Member
I would say YES . Plant seed at least two inches deep so as plant grows , the stalk will be deep enough to hold plant up as she bulks up and gains weight. At week 5 she should get heavy and you will need to stake up anyway.
 

anzohaze

Well-Known Member
Fill bucket amd leave 4 or more inches or more between top lip and soil so as it grows you can add soil or ewc or whatever for top dress purposes. Also so when the plants is linky amd scronny at a young age your can add soil to bury it deeper like above post states
 

Hydrotech364

Well-Known Member
Like all of those answer's and I agree to go as big as Possible on seedling's and clone's I usually start them in 3 Gal bag's..You wont need to stake or hang anything as long as You use fan's..Leaves should never stop moving...
 

hbbum

Well-Known Member
I always get much better growth when I start small and up pot (in soil). I have even done side by side and the results are very obvious that the plants that go in smaller pots and get transplanted do much much better. Not only do I get a better root ball, it is also easier to feed since every time I up pot, they are getting a fresh batch of nutrients with the additional soil. I like to go solo cup, to 1G to 5G, I have even done a 3G between the 1 and 5 with good results.

Also, I would NOT put them 2" into the soil, I usually go about 1/4".
 

Dboi87

Well-Known Member
Also, I would NOT put them 2" into the soil, I usually go about 1/4".
I absolutely agree, though planting directly into your finishing pot will work and be less of a hassle. Just be sure to water VERY lightly as that tiny plant will have a tough time wicking enough water up to get fresh oxygen into the soil.

And never plant 2 inches deep. That's just ridiculous. You might get some to sprout that deep but why put the extra strain on the seed? When a seed first germinates, it's not yet performing photosynthesis so all the energy it's using to crack the shell, grow a tap root, push up through the soil, and finally sprout cotyledons, is all from stored energy the mother plant stored in the seed. As far as support, the new seed has a tap root that shoots straight down and branches out as soon as the seed germinates. THAT is where plants get theirs support. From the root system. Not from deeply buried stalks.
 

hbbum

Well-Known Member
Also, I would not start the seeds under that big of a light. Even if you keep it far enough away that it is not baking your soil/seedling, it seems like a tremendous waste for power when all you really need are a couple CFL or fouro lights since you are not going for photosynthesis for awhile.
 

Illicithunter

Active Member
Also, I would not start the seeds under that big of a light. Even if you keep it far enough away that it is not baking your soil/seedling, it seems like a tremendous waste for power when all you really need are a couple CFL or fouro lights since you are not going for photosynthesis for awhile.
Yea I'm gonna start out with a smaller T5 setup and then onto the HID lamps.
 

MJtheIndicator

Active Member
Preference is to start in large pot to give the root zone room to play. If you are first germinating to acquire a tap root the depth of soil is roughly 2 inches deep to accomodate the tap root with approximately 1/4" of soil covering it to encourage quick emergence. Don't expect early signs of top side momentum due to energy spent on root growth, but once the rhizosphere has established the vigour should be robust above ground and stronger than the typical transplanted custom.
 

Illicithunter

Active Member
I always get much better growth when I start small and up pot (in soil). I have even done side by side and the results are very obvious that the plants that go in smaller pots and get transplanted do much much better. Not only do I get a better root ball, it is also easier to feed since every time I up pot, they are getting a fresh batch of nutrients with the additional soil. I like to go solo cup, to 1G to 5G, I have even done a 3G between the 1 and 5 with good results.

Also, I would NOT put them 2" into the soil, I usually go about 1/4".
Yea I'm not in any rush and want the best results so I'll trade up on pot sizes. How is it transplanting from pot to pot? I know your supposed to not water for a week to dry out the soil.
 

SnaFuu

Well-Known Member
Preference is to start in large pot to give the root zone room to play. If you are first germinating to acquire a tap root the depth of soil is roughly 2 inches deep to accomodate the tap root with approximately 1/4" of soil covering it to encourage quick emergence. Don't expect early signs of top side momentum due to energy spent on root growth, but once the rhizosphere has established the vigour should be robust above ground and stronger than the typical transplanted custom.
By your math your seedling is 1 3/4" after germinating.

Where do you find these
 

Dboi87

Well-Known Member
MJtheindicator is right. Root growth is pretty rapid and vigorous under the proper conditions.
 

hbbum

Well-Known Member
Yea I'm not in any rush and want the best results so I'll trade up on pot sizes. How is it transplanting from pot to pot? I know your supposed to not water for a week to dry out the soil.
Depends on your container type, I use fabric and just roll it down to transplant, some people sew in velcro to make it even easier. I think the aeropots come apart easily. I don't need a week to dry out once they are ready for transplant they are usually dry enough after 3-4 days.
 

Walter9999

Well-Known Member
Dampening the soil before transplant allows you to compact the soil for stability when you invert the pot...when the soil is dry the soil falling away from the plant will tear the roots damaging the plant
 

jcurtis912

Well-Known Member
Dampening the soil before transplant allows you to compact the soil for stability when you invert the pot...when the soil is dry the soil falling away from the plant will tear the roots damaging the plant
Well, actually, yes keep it wet when transplanting, but the comment about damaging the roots is such nonsense. I regularly trim the roots when I transplant, and i have noticed a MARKED improvement since I have started doing so.
 

Walter9999

Well-Known Member
Well, actually, yes keep it wet when transplanting, but the comment about damaging the roots is such nonsense. I regularly trim the roots when I transplant, and i have noticed a MARKED improvement since I have started doing so.
I grow using the KISS method...you can call this method Of transplanting I use nonsense all you want...plants can and will be stunted during transplanting...avoiding that was what I was recommending to the OP...what was your contribution again?
 

skifried

Member
Do it i run perpetual i start all my autos in 5 gall bucket...i fill almost to the top with potting mix and make a fist sized hole and fill with seed starter plant like normal water lightly till established i dont germ i just drop seed 4-5 days usually there above ground check the picks ...photos like my blue og i start small then transplant...autos dont like any shock
 

Attachments

Top