Ttystikk's vertical goodness

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Tony Robbins' books helped me at least a bit.

That said, I'll definitely seek out Simon Sinek on your recommendation. Self improvement is generally a good investment, I've found.
As you know, tty I am an inveterate asspipe with harsh words, but I mean well. I am glad you found value there. Sinek has a ton of great videos on youtube, I devoured most of them even though the message is largely the same in all of them.

And also on youtube, CGP Grey, you will love the CGP Grey stuff, more informational than self-help.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7679C7ACE93A5638
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
I'm creeping up on this goal for certain inputs, like water; my sealed room needs both cooling and dehumidification, which creates a lot of condensate. I use this as base water and add nutrients and reuse it.

Another member here is experimenting with soil that releases its own co2, eliminating another input requirement.
I wasnt sure if the water recovered was safe to use from the Dehumidifier. My thoughts were that it has touched the internal parts and may have taken some chemicals from them.
I never asked anyone, glad to hear I can use it, because its like distilled water I would think.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I wasnt sure if the water recovered was safe to use from the Dehumidifier. My thoughts were that it has touched the internal parts and may have taken some chemicals from them.
I never asked anyone, glad to hear I can use it, because its like distilled water I would think.
It isn't 'like' distilled water; it IS distilled water. 0.0 EC. It's better than most people's RO water, lol Even most bottled water is much higher in dissolved minerals, to make it taste better.

As such, it's excellent for use in your nutrient regimen as you can be sure there's basically nothing in it.
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Maybe this hydronic coolong loop could be incorporated into driveway design? How you ask?
Heated driveway in winter as a dumping point for the extra heat you still have. Large thermal well in the summer still as long as it's not south facing asphalt and hydronic lines are deep enough. Problem, this system not really useful for someone that lives in florida, but take the $600 for a snowblower, the pita that it is to store, and the 1.5 hrs I spend every time it snows more than 4in....add that up and a driveway heater is sounding real good.
..
I'm way ahead of you; the only problem with this scenario is that I'd need an order of magnitude more heat than the system generates to do my double wide driveway. Plus, summertime is when I'm generating the most heat and that's when the driveway is too hot to serve as a heat sink.

I may try it anyway, just to see what I can do.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I take issue with this statement

. Plus, summertime is when I'm generating the most heat
You're not generating more heat if you're still using the same 5500w, you've lost the delta t advantage. Driveway too big, go back patio better yet the floor for that new greenhouse. See about glycol based system too, thought it was more effecient at heat xfer and wont freeze. Your ahead, I'll keep picking up the pieces, cascading thermal wells, how deep your pockets?
What if I only want to use a 1000w? I'll die if you say go hid:bigjoint:
 

Vnsmkr

Well-Known Member
It isn't 'like' distilled water; it IS distilled water. 0.0 EC. It's better than most people's RO water, lol Even most bottled water is much higher in dissolved minerals, since it tastes better.

As such, it's excellent for use in your nutrient regimen as you can be sure there's basically nothing in it.
The guys on that show brainstormers on discovery built one for a guy in So Cal for his gardening outdoors. An outdoor dehumidifier to produce water :)
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I take issue with this statement



You're not generating more heat if you're still using the same 5500w, you've lost the delta t advantage. Driveway too big, go back patio better yet the floor for that new greenhouse. See about glycol based system too, thought it was more effecient at heat xfer and wont freeze. Your ahead, I'll keep picking up the pieces, cascading thermal wells, how deep your pockets?
What if I only want to use a 1000w? I'll die if you say go hid:bigjoint:
Water is better but yup it freezes. And doubt there is enough heat generated to melt ice, heat house, heat water lol. But now if we are talking GEOTHERMAL well that's different ;).
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I take issue with this statement



You're not generating more heat if you're still using the same 5500w, you've lost the delta t advantage. Driveway too big, go back patio better yet the floor for that new greenhouse. See about glycol based system too, thought it was more effecient at heat xfer and wont freeze. Your ahead, I'll keep picking up the pieces, cascading thermal wells, how deep your pockets?
What if I only want to use a 1000w? I'll die if you say go hid:bigjoint:
He needs to remove more BTU's in the summer so yup more heat :)
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
He needs to remove more BTU's in the summer so yup more heat :)
Think we're on the same page, those "extra" btus are coming from the outside.

My boiler runs at 180 so part of reson for cascade. Water in baseboards is much less, so if boiler could receive "preheated" 120deg ish water.....

Trick is the balance point for almost all scenarios is different.

Just a bit of mental masturbation.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I take issue with this statement



You're not generating more heat if you're still using the same 5500w, you've lost the delta t advantage. Driveway too big, go back patio better yet the floor for that new greenhouse. See about glycol based system too, thought it was more effecient at heat xfer and wont freeze. Your ahead, I'll keep picking up the pieces, cascading thermal wells, how deep your pockets?
What if I only want to use a 1000w? I'll die if you say go hid:bigjoint:
Delta T between cold side and hot side is called the temperature gradient. This number gets bigger at the expense of capacity and ultimately efficiency.

Therefore, the trick is to run the numbers close together, yet just far enough apart to do their respective jobs.

This is much harder for the unit to accomplish the hotter it gets outside.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Think we're on the same page, those "extra" btus are coming from the outside.

My boiler runs at 180 so part of reson for cascade. Water in baseboards is much less, so if boiler could receive "preheated" 120deg ish water.....

Trick is the balance point for almost all scenarios is different.

Just a bit of mental masturbation.
The big O in this case is nonetheless more useful than a sticky mess.

The room is well sealed, it's outside temperature that changes from winter to simmer, not the inside!
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Boiler return temp would be above 130 (unless condensing) so yes anything you generate above that could be used. Better use would be a lower temp DHW system with buffer tank preheated IMO.
You sound like someone with hvac experience. I'll defer to the professionals to work out the feasibility, logistics, and economics of it all. You're right about return temp I was more thiking of the few gallons trapped in the system since it was on last. Small potatoes for sure, I agree DHW preheat.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Boiler return temp would be above 130 (unless condensing) so yes anything you generate above that could be used. Better use would be a lower temp DHW system with buffer tank preheated IMO.
My entire hot side runs between 95-105F and keeps my house warm in spite of a few design flaws (like blowing through the hot side heat exchange core instead of drawing through it).
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
My entire hot side runs between 95-105F and keeps my house warm in spite of a few design flaws (like blowing through the hot side heat exchange core instead of drawing through it).
That should not be an issue really most hot water coil airhandler's are blow through, as long as the blower is designed and sized properly should be good. If changing to baseboard choose wisely and be sure they are low temp rated if you want peak effiency. They are quite popular due to the advent of condensing boilers that need to keep temps low to condense.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
You sound like someone with hvac experience. I'll defer to the professionals to work out the feasibility, logistics, and economics of it all. You're right about return temp I was more thiking of the few gallons trapped in the system since it was on last. Small potatoes for sure, I agree DHW preheat.
I'm a refrigeration mechanic but dabble in all HVAC ;).
 

Godfather420

Well-Known Member
That should not be an issue really most hot water coil airhandler's are blow through, as long as the blower is designed and sized properly should be good. If changing to baseboard choose wisely and be sure they are low temp rated if you want peak effiency. They are quite popular due to the advent of condensing boilers that need to keep temps low to condense.
Low temp baseboard heaters? interesting! got any manufactures names.... Probably just look like a care radiator vs a fin tube eh?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
That should not be an issue really most hot water coil airhandler's are blow through, as long as the blower is designed and sized properly should be good. If changing to baseboard choose wisely and be sure they are low temp rated if you want peak effiency. They are quite popular due to the advent of condensing boilers that need to keep temps low to condense.
Delta T is insufficient for a blow thru solution so flipping the blower around to draw through the core will make the difference, I'm sure of it.

You want to blow through cold water cores, not hot ones. This approach puts compression heating to work for you. Not applicable to water as it's incompressible.
 
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