Major difference bewteen "blackstrap" & general unsulphured molasses near harvest?

OldAK-MTF907

Active Member
I'm just wondering if the stock factory store bought unsulphured molasses is as good, or is possibly lacking anything compared to one specifically titled "blackstrap" unsulphured molasses? Do they both benefit the soil the same & help before harvest?
 

Gaz29

Well-Known Member
I'm just wondering if the stock factory store bought unsulphured molasses is as good, or is possibly lacking anything compared to one specifically titled "blackstrap" unsulphured molasses? Do they both benefit the soil the same & help before harvest?
It's a brand of molasses, any unsululphered molasses is good for plants.. hope this helps.!? Happy growing
Gaz
 

SouthCross

Well-Known Member
Black strap molasses is used in compost teas because it feeds two sides. Bacteria and fungi. Black strap is mostly carbon with some sugar.

Sulfur in high concentrations will kill bacteria and fungi. Regular molasses is mostly sugar and it'll mainly feeds bacteria. Not fungi.

A whole lot better choice then regular molasses is pure organic Cane sugar. The stuff they make molasses out of. It'll make bacteria explode when used in tea. Fungi eats protein. Not sugar. To multiply those guys fish liquid is used. Or some other protein. To grow both, mix cane sugar with the fish.

Long story short. Sulfur molasses isn't a good choice for a soil amendment.
 

OldAK-MTF907

Active Member
Neither help near harvest
a good soil build feeds the micro's, they dont need any more
if they are not properly fed, or are killed by the time you near harvest.....its too late
That sounds....hard to believe I guess I would say, (just the "doesn't help near harvest" part) since the plants continue in their respective soil they've been in, feeding the micro herd seems like it would have some benefit, in veg., flower, pre harvest, etc....weird. All input is appreciated though, thanks
 
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OldAK-MTF907

Active Member
Black strap molasses is used in compost teas because it feeds two sides. Bacteria and fungi. Black strap is mostly carbon with some sugar.

Sulfur in high concentrations will kill bacteria and fungi. Regular molasses is mostly sugar and it'll mainly feeds bacteria. Not fungi.

A whole lot better choice then regular molasses is pure organic Cane sugar. The stuff they make molasses out of. It'll make bacteria explode when used in tea. Fungi eats protein. Not sugar. To multiply those guys fish liquid is used. Or some other protein. To grow both, mix cane sugar with the fish.

Long story short. Sulfur molasses isn't a good choice for a soil amendment.
Ahhh, gotcha. Haven't gotten into any fish related proteins as of yet because I guess I haven't found any need...well other than as a compliment to the organic compost I more or less freehand, I'm pretty sure I add some sort of "fish meal" in there.

And pure organic cane sugar eh? Yeah, I've wondered if going that route rather than using the by product/sum of cane sugar (molasses) would be of more use, after reading the usual myriad internet ideas/theory's...hmmm, so iyo (in your opinion) would adding a tablespoon or 2 per gallon benefit/feed the soil fungi?
 

OldAK-MTF907

Active Member
It's a brand of molasses, any unsululphered molasses is good for plants.. hope this helps.!? Happy growing
Gaz
Yeah...cool. Thanks, kinda what I figured. Have ya heard of using pure organic cane sugar (like mentioned below) in lieu of molasses? That sounds interesting! I might have to experiment w that a bit! Thanks btw!
 

OldAK-MTF907

Active Member
Neither help near harvest
a good soil build feeds the micro's, they dont need any more
if they are not properly fed, or are killed by the time you near harvest.....its too late
Oh also I guess "near harvest" is a bit subjective...I meant a few weeks (2-3 1/2 ish)
 

Cletus clem

Well-Known Member
In an active aerated composte tea, bacteria are free to move about, eat as they see fit. In soil, they are rather confined. They dont. They are playing zone and its a pretty small zone. Molasses at this point is like pouring a lead blanket on them. They should also have plenty of food once in your soil, molasses is redundant. Its only beneficial use at this point would be aact. If you want to pump your plant full of sugar near harvest, nectar for the gods aphrodites extraction is digested milk powder. A short chain sugar the plant can take in at the root and immediately put to good use. Its also chock full of calcium. That paired with herculean harvest (liquid bone meal) is a damn fine way to finish a plant off. Sugar and rock weight.
 

OldAK-MTF907

Active Member
In an active aerated composte tea, bacteria are free to move about, eat as they see fit. In soil, they are rather confined. They dont. They are playing zone and its a pretty small zone. Molasses at this point is like pouring a lead blanket on them. They should also have plenty of food once in your soil, molasses is redundant. Its only beneficial use at this point would be aact. If you want to pump your plant full of sugar near harvest, nectar for the gods aphrodites extraction is digested milk powder. A short chain sugar the plant can take in at the root and immediately put to good use. Its also chock full of calcium. That paired with herculean harvest (liquid bone meal) is a damn fine way to finish a plant off. Sugar and rock weight.
Sure, that makes sense. And no kiddin' huh? So what direct, absolute benefits have you personally experienced with the "nectar o' the gods/herculean extr." products prior to yield? Bulkier yields/buds? Or just general healthier or more trich coverage? I'll definitely at least do some online research & if I see enough positive reviews (naturally somewhat depending on the price also) may purchase both. I'd love to get something that allows them to pack on more dense girth than my thumb-ish sized circumference once finely dried & manicured! Thanks & I'll be checking in frequently for a response!
 

Cletus clem

Well-Known Member
Sure, that makes sense. And no kiddin' huh? So what direct, absolute benefits have you personally experienced with the "nectar o' the gods/herculean extr." products prior to yield? Bulkier yields/buds? Or just general healthier or more trich coverage? I'll definitely at least do some online research & if I see enough positive reviews (naturally somewhat depending on the price also) may purchase both. I'd love to get something that allows them to pack on more dense girth than my thumb-ish sized circumference once finely dried & manicured! Thanks & I'll be checking in frequently for a response!
The bottles are not answers to a problem, they are tools. Proper use, the knoweledge of how, when and why will will determine your finished product. Buy them. Or dont. Dosnt matter to me.
Those 2 videos are long but excellent resources. Ive watched both of them several times. The ocg channel has a few other great vids. Any of the harley smith npk videos are awesome as well.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
In an active aerated composte tea, bacteria are free to move about, eat as they see fit. In soil, they are rather confined. They dont. They are playing zone and its a pretty small zone. Molasses at this point is like pouring a lead blanket on them. They should also have plenty of food once in your soil, molasses is redundant. Its only beneficial use at this point would be aact. If you want to pump your plant full of sugar near harvest, nectar for the gods aphrodites extraction is digested milk powder. A short chain sugar the plant can take in at the root and immediately put to good use. Its also chock full of calcium. That paired with herculean harvest (liquid bone meal) is a damn fine way to finish a plant off. Sugar and rock weight.
Other then the liquid bone meal. + REP!
Why all the P?

Molasses use near the end is another old school hippie myth!
 

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
That sounds....hard to believe I guess I would say, (just the "doesn't help near harvest" part) since the plants continue in their respective soil they've been in, feeding the micro herd seems like it would have some benefit, in veg., flower, pre harvest, etc....weird. All input is appreciated though, thanks
check out the most experienced growers here, they dont pour molasses into their soil.
its always the same groups that do though, check the plant issues threads...they're all in that section.

if there is any benefit it is negated by the food stuff that isnt used in the soil. your plant doesnt eat molasses.
your plants grow to their weakest resource. If you dont have temp/rh control, hid lights, and proper air exchange/c02
those beasts are dying anyways, molasses wont do it. if molasses made bigger better buds we all would be using it universally.
its cheap and easy, be no reason not to try it.
a handful of compost will go a hundred times further than a spoonful of molasses to feed micro beasts. if the addition of anything makes your weed better for you by all means do it, its part of the fun learning.
 

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
I'm betting once again...... last thing some growers do to improve their weed is
to employ proper controls? ac, dehuey, light, heat, air/c02. thats where the trick is aye
Liquid Fan=no need to increase air movement,
works well with the Mold No More spray line and the
CFL Bud Stacker nutes
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
Don't some molasses also provide a good ratio of Ca and Mg? I used to use brer rabbit brand because of the high Ca and Mg. And would sulphered molasses do anything for terpene enhancement? I thought I read higher sulphur levels could bring them out. I only added it to teas and my compost piles, never directly to a pot.

Beer rabbit label.

 

Cletus clem

Well-Known Member
I'm betting once again...... last thing some growers do to improve their weed is
to employ proper controls? ac, dehuey, light, heat, air/c02. thats where the trick is aye
Liquid Fan=no need to increase air movement,
works well with the Mold No More spray line and the
CFL Bud Stacker nutes
Ive been using these nutes for about a year now to great effect. No complaints with yield, quality or health. Its a calcium based line of pre digested soil amendments making them available for immediate use. Its like super soil that you can adjust and spoon feed to pretty good accuracy. Salts and acids are going to form and build up to some degree, why not neutralize them with something thats beneficial to the plant and microbes?
As far ar enviroment being the last thing growers change, sometimes its just not that easy. Im in a situation where there isnt a way i could run an ac or dehuey, let alone both. I have 1 outlet in my basement of which to run my lights, intake, exhaust and fans. I share that outlet with my washing machine. Piss with the cock ya got right?
What are your thoughts on organic bio stimulants?
 

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
Don't some molasses also provide a good ratio of Ca and Mg? I used to use brer rabbit brand because of the high Ca and Mg. And would sulphered molasses do anything for terpene enhancement? I thought I read higher sulphur levels could bring them out. I only added it to teas and my compost piles, never directly to a pot.

Beer rabbit label.

absolutely, but along with other stuff no dirt needs?

these same elements are available in a handful of compost, or rabbit poop, or all kinds of plant food items.
you hit it right on with "never directly to a pot"
 

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
Ive been using these nutes for about a year now to great effect. No complaints with yield, quality or health. Its a calcium based line of pre digested soil amendments making them available for immediate use. Its like super soil that you can adjust and spoon feed to pretty good accuracy. Salts and acids are going to form and build up to some degree, why not neutralize them with something thats beneficial to the plant and microbes?
As far ar enviroment being the last thing growers change, sometimes its just not that easy. Im in a situation where there isnt a way i could run an ac or dehuey, let alone both. I have 1 outlet in my basement of which to run my lights, intake, exhaust and fans. I share that outlet with my washing machine. Piss with the cock ya got right?
What are your thoughts on organic bio stimulants?
I hear ya. I say if it works well for you change nothing. Its all very subjective, from one user to another, so if you and yours love it you're doing it right.
I know that no matter what we add or trick to a plant will grow to its weakest resource. No matter how much nutrient is provided
for instance high temps will always adversely affect results and more of anything but the needed resource wont help that issue.

I like organic bio stim, and I know it occurs naturally in healthy compost so thats what I use. I got no knowledge about bottled ones, though I did use, until it was gone, two bags of beneficial bacteria(forgot the names), but havent for years. I saw no difference with the addition so I didnt continue. like when I add calcium, or sulphur, or anything now my plants fail. I think I'm at a sweet spot in soil.
 
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