Leaves yellowing too fast in flower?

tywashere

Well-Known Member
I'm running FFOF and their bloom nute right now in my tent, I use 1 tablespoon every other watering, sometimes even less. in general I give them 250ppm feeding twice a week. You rplants has some sort of toxicity, I can guarantee that. stop feeding it man, you have plenty of nutes locked up in that soil...

Once I was reading a thread similar to this, The OP was going on about "I've given them a foliar spray of Epsom salts, I've given it this and that and this and that" and someone came in, and he said "Have you tried no doing anything?" That really stuck with me, It made me reconsider my approach to growing. If your plant was deficient it would be lacking in growth, it would be small and underdeveloped. but that's clearly not the case, it's a big bountiful plant... but as you can see it's still yellowing. This to me, is a clear sign of lockout. slowly water the rootball from the center with RO water at your next watering. make sure you get a substantial amount of runoff. cease any and all feeding and just hope that she finishes up. It can be hard to sift through the bullshit man, so I'ma give you a couple great referenced that have helped me out.

marijuana-deficiency-chart-jorge-cervantes.jpg

Full plant lockout will look like all of these combines, which is what this looks like to me.
 

thenotsoesoteric

Well-Known Member
This thread is full of assumptions, lol.

OP uses FFOF and FF nutes in 5 gallon but how often does OP water, are containers drying out enough, what is the temps in the grow rooms, what is the water OP is using is it tap, good air circulation... etc
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
I'm running FFOF and their bloom nute right now in my tent, I use 1 tablespoon every other watering, sometimes even less. in general I give them 250ppm feeding twice a week. You rplants has some sort of toxicity, I can guarantee that. stop feeding it man, you have plenty of nutes locked up in that soil...

Once I was reading a thread similar to this, The OP was going on about "I've given them a foliar spray of Epsom salts, I've given it this and that and this and that" and someone came in, and he said "Have you tried no doing anything?" That really stuck with me, It made me reconsider my approach to growing. If your plant was deficient it would be lacking in growth, it would be small and underdeveloped. but that's clearly not the case, it's a big bountiful plant... but as you can see it's still yellowing. This to me, is a clear sign of lockout. slowly water the rootball from the center with RO water at your next watering. make sure you get a substantial amount of runoff. cease any and all feeding and just hope that she finishes up. It can be hard to sift through the bullshit man, so I'ma give you a couple great referenced that have helped me out.

View attachment 4088135

Full plant lockout will look like all of these combines, which is what this looks like to me.
I could be flat wrong, but check that chart...

Do you see dark leaves with burnt tips typical of NPK excess. Do you see necrotic spotting that would indicate some def's? It really looks like N def. He's feeding with no N in that formula for 5 weeks!

I do agree that less is more with nutes though.

I'm running Botanicare PureBlend Pro. Semi Organic 1-4-5, just fed 2 ml CalMag Plus, 4 ml PureBlend Pro, and a dash of Molasses to about 315 ppm. Just transplanted 2-3 weeks ago, easing in. CalMag Plus is 2-0-0, and half in relation to PBP, so feeding a 2-4-5 with some organic N still in FFOF mix I do. My 2 cents.
 

tywashere

Well-Known Member
I could be flat wrong, but check that chart...

Do you see dark leaves with burnt tips typical of NPK excess. Do you see necrotic spotting that would indicate some def's? It really looks like N def. He's feeding with no N in that formula for 5 weeks!

I do agree that less is more with nutes though.

I'm running Botanicare PureBlend Pro. Semi Organic 1-4-5, just fed 2 ml CalMag Plus, 4 ml PureBlend Pro, and a dash of Molasses to about 315 ppm. Just transplanted 2-3 weeks ago, easing in. CalMag Plus is 2-0-0, and half in relation to PBP, so feeding a 2-4-5 with some organic N still in FFOF mix I do. My 2 cents.
I believe we're seeing the late stages of Micro/macro excess. If it were N deficiency, just the bottom of the plant would be yellowing. N deficency progresses upwards. I can guarantee you adding nutrients to the mix will not fix this one bit... But it's all moot, the toxicity is way to bad to truly correct it. deficiency is a slow progressive killer, it works it's way up the plant. the leafs yellow, and fall off. The entire plant is sick, not just the lower leafs.

Plants need:
Clean water
enough food
Proper parameters
Good airflow
enough light

Why is it that people automatically assume the solution is to up the nutes or up the light? somtimes the best thing you can do for your plant is give it some fresh water. N deficiency this late in flower seems unlikely. and I'm not entirely sure if OP is being honest with his nute schedule. Regardless of what I think, y'all have convinced him to throw fuel on the fire.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
I believe we're seeing the late stages of Micro/macro excess. If it were N deficiency, just the bottom of the plant would be yellowing. N deficency progresses upwards. I can guarantee you adding nutrients to the mix will not fix this one bit... But it's all moot, the toxicity is way to bad to truly correct it. deficiency is a slow progressive killer, it works it's way up the plant. the leafs yellow, and fall off. The entire plant is sick, not just the lower leafs.

Plants need:
Clean water
enough food
Proper parameters
Good airflow
enough light

Why is it that people automatically assume the solution is to up the nutes or up the light? somtimes the best thing you can do for your plant is give it some fresh water. N deficiency this late in flower seems unlikely. and I'm not entirely sure if OP is being honest with his nute schedule. Regardless of what I think, y'all have convinced him to throw fuel on the fire.
Re-Read the posts. No one said add nutes. He's giving it clean RO. I suggested he use CalMag next run. I agreed that when it comes to nutes, less is more, and for the record, the branches are yellowing from the bottom up.
 

Married2MarryJ

Well-Known Member
I believe we're seeing the late stages of Micro/macro excess. If it were N deficiency, just the bottom of the plant would be yellowing. N deficency progresses upwards. I can guarantee you adding nutrients to the mix will not fix this one bit... But it's all moot, the toxicity is way to bad to truly correct it. deficiency is a slow progressive killer, it works it's way up the plant. the leafs yellow, and fall off. The entire plant is sick, not just the lower leafs.

Plants need:
Clean water
enough food
Proper parameters
Good airflow
enough light

Why is it that people automatically assume the solution is to up the nutes or up the light? somtimes the best thing you can do for your plant is give it some fresh water. N deficiency this late in flower seems unlikely. and I'm not entirely sure if OP is being honest with his nute schedule. Regardless of what I think, y'all have convinced him to throw fuel on the fire.
all airflow is good temps are at 83 to 85 humidity 35 percent. As of now I just gave her a gallon of straight ro got about 20 percent run off. In a couple days I will do the same.
 

tywashere

Well-Known Member
all airflow is good temps are at 83 to 85 humidity 35 percent. As of now I just gave her a gallon of straight ro got about 20 percent run off. In a couple days I will do the same.
83 to 85? are you running L.E.D.? if you're using HPS or MH I'm pretty sure that'd be too high. higher lead surface temperatures = increase rate of transpiration. This makes the plant take up more water (and more nutrient along with it) maybe this is part of your problem?
 

Married2MarryJ

Well-Known Member
83 to 85? are you running L.E.D.? if you're using HPS or MH I'm pretty sure that'd be too high. higher lead surface temperatures = increase rate of transpiration. This makes the plant take up more water (and more nutrient along with it) maybe this is part of your problem?
Yea man I’m running horticulture lighting group quantum boards kits all together 510 watts. They say to keep temps around that for those lights I guess. They also say these lights make the plant want more cal mag
 

Married2MarryJ

Well-Known Member
Hey you guys so I have watered her twice since we have talked straight RO nothing else. She seems like she’s slowing down with the yellowing so thanks guys sometimes it’s better to do nothing and just water if u see problems instead of adding more nutes and what not.

So my question is with all of the yellow leaves I left on is it ok to cut them all off the plant even the ones that look half dead and on their way. I really would like to cut them off just because looking at them irks me lol.
 

Kronickeeper

Well-Known Member
Hey you guys so I have watered her twice since we have talked straight RO nothing else. She seems like she’s slowing down with the yellowing so thanks guys sometimes it’s better to do nothing and just water if u see problems instead of adding more nutes and what not.

So my question is with all of the yellow leaves I left on is it ok to cut them all off the plant even the ones that look half dead and on their way. I really would like to cut them off just because looking at them irks me lol.
Watering with RO water is going to speed up the yellowing. You can’t correct it this far into flower just ride it out. You can pluck the yellowing leaves if you want but it won’t make much of a difference next round use veg nutes first two weeks into bloom transition should slow it down. Also some pheno types yellow off faster than others and some won’t yellow at all.
 
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Kronickeeper

Well-Known Member
Hey you guys so I have watered her twice since we have talked straight RO nothing else. She seems like she’s slowing down with the yellowing so thanks guys sometimes it’s better to do nothing and just water if u see problems instead of adding more nutes and what not.

So my question is with all of the yellow leaves I left on is it ok to cut them all off the plant even the ones that look half dead and on their way. I really would like to cut them off just because looking at them irks me lol.
you definitely do not have N toxicity the main culprit is PH for stuff like this if you tested your run off and PH is good you don’t have nute lock out if you switched to blooms nutes right at flip that seems to me to be the problem the issue.
 

Married2MarryJ

Well-Known Member
you definitely do not have N toxicity the main culprit is PH for stuff like this if you tested your run off and PH is good you don’t have nute lock out if you switched to blooms nutes right at flip that seems to me to be the problem the issue.
That’s a good idea tho when I get home I’m going to ph runoff and I’ll let u guys know what it is. Cause I still have the water runoff in my shop vac good thing I didn’t dump it lol
 

Married2MarryJ

Well-Known Member
Hey you guys so I checked my PH with the old school ph can’t go wrong with that and this is my runoff looks to me exactly at 7.0 so here’s a pic what do you guys think?
D4CA5D86-AEE5-4187-A80A-EFFD179CEC73.jpeg
 

Kronickeeper

Well-Known Member
PH could be a tad lower in soil between 6.5 or 6.8 I don’t think 7 would be causing nute lock out but it’s possible. Is this a strain you have run before or first time?
 

Samblakaka

Active Member
Roots have been mentioned once or twice, and I fully believe they are your problem. I've ran into this issue before, it makes you think it's a nutrient lockout of some type or whatever...and it is a nutrient problem indeed, but it's because your roots are probably trashed. Since the roots can't property uptake nutrients, the plant is effectively cannibalizing itself to get the mass nutes it needs to build the big buds you want. I almost guarantee that if you uproot that sucker right now (which would be insane...don't do it lol) you would see the roots would resemble an elephants foot (sorta). There would be a fat mass below the base of the stem with spindly shitty looking roots coming off of the rotted nasty fat root foot. It'll still make buds, but expect about half the yield you would have gotten if your roots were healthy. Number one cause of this condition is overwatering and nothing else. Not saying this is 100% what's happening here, but I've experienced this and that was indeed the culprit. I attached a pic of a past plant that had this issue. See how shitty and sad it Is? This was 7 weeks into flower, and it pretty much looked like that since week 4. After harvesting, I pulled it to see if my assumption about the roots was correct, and lo and behold, when I pulled it, it looked like a ginseng root....no bueno.
 

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