Making Tea - is EZ.... & Cheap !

swishatwista

Well-Known Member
Hey Ohso i fed my 2 girls their 2nd tea the other day and their leaves are becoming lighter and lighter in color. I'm sure they aren't locked out of any nutrient because i flushed them the week before because i seen similar results to what i'm seein now. My tea consisted of 2 teaspoons of high N bat guano, 1 cup worm castings, 1 oz molasses, 2 oz of STP, and 3 tablespoons of liquid seaweed. My plants are a month and 2 weeks old. I also foliar fed with a real light mix of the seaweed. I was thinking that i fed too doused of a tea, what do you think?
 

somebody041

Well-Known Member
Hey Ohso i fed my 2 girls their 2nd tea the other day and their leaves are becoming lighter and lighter in color. I'm sure they aren't locked out of any nutrient because i flushed them the week before because i seen similar results to what i'm seein now. My tea consisted of 2 teaspoons of high N bat guano, 1 cup worm castings, 1 oz molasses, 2 oz of STP, and 3 tablespoons of liquid seaweed. My plants are a month and 2 weeks old. I also foliar fed with a real light mix of the seaweed. I was thinking that i fed too doused of a tea, what do you think?

i had the same problem with and my tea recipe was the same as yours. i don't know about you but i am using straight ffof in 3/5 gal pots under 1000 watt hps.

i hope someone can help us out
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
Hey Ohso i fed my 2 girls their 2nd tea the other day and their leaves are becoming lighter and lighter in color. I'm sure they aren't locked out of any nutrient because i flushed them the week before because i seen similar results to what i'm seein now. My tea consisted of 2 teaspoons of high N bat guano, 1 cup worm castings, 1 oz molasses, 2 oz of STP, and 3 tablespoons of liquid seaweed. My plants are a month and 2 weeks old. I also foliar fed with a real light mix of the seaweed. I was thinking that i fed too doused of a tea, what do you think?
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Swishatwista..... For two gallons of water, you should mix a total of 4 tablespoons of High N Bat Guano (minimum). Two teaspoons is way too weak for two gallons. With High N Bat Guano the general rule is 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of water. It's always best to start with the smaller number and work up. Underfeeding is easier to correct than overfeeding.
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Hope this helps....
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somebody041

Well-Known Member
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Swishatwista..... For two gallons of water, you should mix a total of 4 tablespoons of High N Bat Guano (minimum). Two teaspoons is way too weak for two gallons. With High N Bat Guano the general rule is 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of water. It's always best to start with the smaller number and work up. Underfeeding is easier to correct than overfeeding.
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Hope this helps....
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i read that the 3lb recommended using 1 tsp guano per gallon of water when making teas, but that does explain our problems. does the same rule apply for high P guano?
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
i read that the 3lb recommended using 1 tsp guano per gallon of water when making teas, but that does explain our problems. does the same rule apply for high P guano?
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Somebody041.... I really believe that's just a type-o on the 3lb's part or whoever reposted their info thread. They are very knowledgeble.
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Most guanos both High N & High P - need to be mixed in tablespoons - with plants beyond the seedling stage.
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Hope this helps...
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somebody041

Well-Known Member
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Somebody041.... I really believe that's just a type-o on the 3lb's part or whoever reposted there info thread. They are very knowledgeble.
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Most guanos both High N & High P - need to be mixed in tablespoons - with plants beyond the seedling stage.
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Hope this helps...
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sure does! my first run has been going horribly and i could not figure out why. now i realize that the plants are severely underfed. i am 4 weeks into flowering and have been brewing all of my teas with 1tsp guano per gallon.

thanks for the clarification


EDIT: i was also wondering if anybody had any recommendations on what type of soil to use when using the full BMO line. right now i have FFOF and peat/wormcastings/perlite/dolomite lime but would be willing to pick something else up if needed...
 

swishatwista

Well-Known Member
somebody041, yea realized my plants were N deficient after i really timelined my grow. I was confused because i had watered/flushed several times, and then read that flushing extinsively will drain your soil of its nutrients. i topdressed my plants for a quick fix and wasn't too soluable( i fed 2 days before).
The reason i was confused was because i read on the first page of the thread how it was 1 or 2 tblspoons of quano per gallon of water, but i was going off page 11 where ohso advised using 2 teaspoons of N guano because my plants were young(new plants now), but i realized it was a typo. No worries Ohso those two words also trip me up. but no harm done i only a couple fan leaves that are completely yellow, should i cut them off or will they regain color?
 

dirt clean

Well-Known Member
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Napalesegrizzly23 I water weekly and fertilize with tea every two weeks, throughout my grow. Overfertilizing & Overwatering are the two biggest mistakes people make. By doing it this way, I avoid both.
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When you grow Mary, each strain, has a preset gentic potential. No magic fert can push it beyond it's potential. You just want to reach it's potential, not lode up it's tissue with NPK it can't use. That equals - slow growth & chemical tasting buds... Yuck...
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I use teas made with bunny manure, worm castings, molasses & high N bat guano for veggie growth. I switch to worm castings, molasses & high P bat guano tea for flowering. The worm castings are from my own worm bin.
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For veggie growth I try to keep the NPK at around 4-3-4 to 8-4-6, during flowering I switch to an NPK of 1-7-0 to 2-8-6.
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The key with Organic nutes is to start low, and build up slow & steady. Because all Organic fertilizers have additional NPK in them, which will continue to break down over time.
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Chemical Ferts are too soluble, they are absorbed quickly, but also leach out quickly. So, when you use chemical ferts you have to apply them more often. They have no staying power and if over used - they toxify your soil & plant much quicker than Organic Ferts.
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So, No Mega-Chemical Ferts or chemical ferts period, for me. I only grow in soil, organically. The only thing I use out of a bottle is Super Plant Tonic made by BMO. It makes your plants rootball massive, which equals - reaching maximum potential - aka - Fat, Frosty Buds...& It's all Organic.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real....Organic... :weed:
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ohsogreen,

Got a question man. This concerns your NPK values of "
For veggie growth I try to keep the NPK at around 4-3-4 to 8-4-6, during flowering I switch to an NPK of 1-7-0 to 2-8-6. "


How do you get that using bat guano. I mean I just got my bat guano in the mail. It is sunleaves 10-2-1. For outdoor use (under hids i guess we count as outdoor) it recomends 2-3 tablespoons per gallon of water. How do I get a 4-3-4 or 8-4-6 npk mixing that? And I also would like to comment that is quite a bit higher than BIO BIZZ recomended feeding would give me. Of course theri feed chart gradually increses.

Do you just start at lower than sunleaves recomended amount and build up?

Also I assume Bio Bizz knows what is talking about so thier much lower NPK which they gradually build up is ok?

Cuz i could go either way. Lol, I got guanos and castings and mollasses and I got Bio bizz and pure blend pro laying around. I a little irked at myself but oh well. ;)

I like the bat teas. How does 10-2-1 (bag of buano) become your NPK?

thanks, i still reading alot.:weed:
 

dirt clean

Well-Known Member
wow I was way off. your numbers and bio bizz actually add up. Bio zizz is 1ml a liter not a gallon. So that is 4 times the NPK on the bottle, almost the exact same you get with your guanos.

Just the same that is cool you can get your NPK values with the guano as I must assume it is 1 tablsppon then increasing up? ty
 

swishatwista

Well-Known Member
Hey Ohso could you scroll back a couple pages to answer my questions about adding stp when you water or when you feed? iv also heard of people adding the mollasses when they water, what are your takes on that?
 

dirt clean

Well-Known Member
I think I remmeber him saying on another thread perhaps that he fertilizes with his teas and then on regular watering says he uses spt.

He has 2 threads on SPT. I would read them both.
 

swishatwista

Well-Known Member
Iv read one of them, which is why i was asking cause on the spt thread he uses stp when watering, but on here he says to mix in with tea, so i was just wanting to see how he personally uses the stp. SPT not stp lol im sure he's not chillin in his stp(sublime). But im not tryin to drag the thread out, just get some advice that hopefully helps others too
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
Iv read one of them, which is why i was asking cause on the spt thread he uses stp when watering, but on here he says to mix in with tea, so i was just wanting to see how he personally uses the stp. SPT not stp lol im sure he's not chillin in his stp(sublime). But im not tryin to drag the thread out, just get some advice that hopefully helps others too
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Swishatwista.... The cool thing about using SPT is that it's flexible. You can use it with or without ferts, with or without add-in's, enzymes..etc... - provided they are organic (not harsh chems or things containing chlorine).
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If you feed your plants weakly / weekly - you can mix your SPT right in with your organic ferts or not.
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I'm an outdoor Grow-illa Grower for the most part - so I prefer to feed every two weeks. On the in between week, I use SPT with my plain water. If I notice some leaves looking a bit light green in color, I'll add one ounce of unsulphured molasses to each gallon of my water / spt solution - to hold Mary over to the next offical feeding. The reason I don't mix SPT with my ferts is - I mix them at a higher strength (double) since I only feed half as often (byweekly). If I did mix SPT with a fat dose of fertilizer tea - it would get broken down too quickly & bam - nute burn. I learned the hard way the first grow I did with SPT. It's fine for weekly use - with weaker fert mixes - if feeding byweekly - use it on your in between week - to avoid the burn.......
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Other than that - It's pretty hard to use this stuff wrong - wrong would be using a super heavy mixing strength (above double) - mixing it with chlorinated water / harsh chem ferts - using it at full strength with full strength or above ferts, or full strength during flowering. If you don't do any of those things - you have nothing to worry about.
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Soil is a great buffer for nutes, pH, micro-life...etc.... To make the best use of any tonic or fert - always pre-wet your soil before applying other things. By giving each plant some water first, you ensure your fert or tonic solution doesn't just run out the bottom of your pot or get sucked up by dry ground (for in ground plants). I always pre-wet the soil, then come back 5 minutes later & do the actual fertilizing.
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I like the feed one week, water only the next - in rotation thing - because it allows Mary to thin down the nutes in the soil. This not only prevents overfeeding, but also increases her root mass. Yes...read on....
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If you water or feed too frequently, Mary will only stretch out her roots a few inches. If the kitchen is only 6 inches away - with plenty of water / fertilizer, why should she stretch out her roots any further.....
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By making her stretch out a bit, it pays off later. Bigger rootballs, mean she can handle dry spells better, she's better anchored (good if you live in a windy area), and has more root mass to suck up all the goodies that will really count during flowering - cause I don't care about growing a super leafy bush - I want buds..... big, fat frosty ones...
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SPT will help get that done, wheter you use it weeky or byweekly. With the micro-beasties on your side - more insoluble NPK is going to get broken down - more bad bacteria beat down and those are both good things...
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Sorry, if I'm rambling - I think I hit the bong a little too hard earlier...... I sure do love the Jillybean.....it's like smoking candy.... & riding on a cloud....
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Keep it Real....Organic......
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ghostsamurai25

New Member
Im over this tea shit. Every time I use organic tea I burn the shit out of my plants.
Starting to consider chemicals, this organic shit has killed my plants for the last year.
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
Im over this tea shit. Every time I use organic tea I burn the shit out of my plants.
Starting to consider chemicals, this organic shit has killed my plants for the last year.
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Ghostsamurai..... Some strains are light feeders, others are hungry beasts. You have to feed accordingly.
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If you were nute burning your plants, why did you not reduce the mixing strength / volume applied ?
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Chem or organic - overfeeding is toxic to Mary. As a general rule, it's much easier to nute burn plants with chem nutes, since they are highly soluble and tend to have bigger NPK numbers. So, merely going chem will not solve the problem - overfeeding is overfeeding.
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Low, slow and steady feeding gets the best results. Don't buy into the more is better thing - big fert companies are trying to sell. Plus don't believe anyone who tells you, you can fertilize (chem or organic) a ditch weed strain of Mary into NYC Diesel quality herb.
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Sorry to hear your plants died, but organic fertilizers are not the cause.
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swishatwista

Well-Known Member
O ok yea i think mollasses is my answer, i just top dressed with 2 tbsp of 10-10-2(pellets) to tide my plants over until my next tea, watering lightly several times to break up the tablets(looks like rabbit food). But ill know in the future that mollasses will be a good option. I plan on watering my 1.7 month old plants, as well my 10 day old flowering plants with 10-10-2(might be 1) seabird guano, but i'm going to delute my flowering mixture a little bit. (although i remember sombody, i think ohso, saying that it will only increase the area of affect rather than deluting it when mixing in more water. But im still going to try to delute it). I feel ya on that spt causing nute burn when feeding every other week. I was confused because id feed normal doses with spt mixed in and id see burnt tips and then i realized that spt will exhaust itself in a sense and break down the nutes too fast. So i watered my top dress with water/spt mixture to start to adjust to it, and ill continue in the future. I like how you prewet the soil and come back 5 mins later, iv been thinking about doing that.

On my next flowering tea im aiming to get a NPK of 1.5-13-14-tryin and true advice from Soma, but i haven't been able to find a guano with potassium. Is there another source that i can get it from?

And i have 2 plants, each different strain. One is still pretty green with only small light green coloring, but it does have some rust spots on it and kind of burnt tips, but i cut them off. I think this strain needs less nutes, would i be correct in that assertation?

My other plant is just a couple shades lighter of green then normal, there wasn't many burnt leaves/spots but it was over all a lighter green, would this plant need more nutes then normal? Iv feed both plants the same mixture, so if you could give your diagnosis i'd appreciate it. Its only my first go around but once i have this first grow done i should have a good idea of everything.

But damn i need that candy in my life, im still rolling up pine, but it gets the job done in the mean time, but alright iv been rambling on long enough,but thanks for answering my past and current questions Ohso. OG swish
 

Ohsogreen

Well-Known Member
On my next flowering tea im aiming to get a NPK of 1.5-13-14-tryin and true advice from Soma, but i haven't been able to find a guano with potassium. Is there another source that i can get it from?

And i have 2 plants, each different strain. One is still pretty green with only small light green coloring, but it does have some rust spots on it and kind of burnt tips, but i cut them off. I think this strain needs less nutes, would i be correct in that assertation?
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Earth Juice makes a bottled add-in called Meta K, NPK 0-0-10. It's all organic and makes dailing in teas a breeze. It's easier to use than wood ashes - because the true numbers are known.
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Every strain does feed differently. Some strains even have lighter or darker green leaves (as a trait) - like some of us have brown hair while others are blonde.
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If with light green leaves - it's showing nute burn on the tips, I'd check the soil pH to ensure it's in range 6 to 6.8 - to rule out a nute lockout. If the soil pH is correct and it's growth is healthy, then you know it is a lighter feeding strain.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic.....
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