Anybody Want To Double Their Yield?- Desertrat's Top and Prune?

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
There is a difference between pruning to achieve training results and excessive removal of the unit that produces your bud. "Exposed budsites" are not capable of increasing yield, the photosynthetic tissue mass just isn't there. Many times when leaves or branches are removed the plant responds with replacement. Depends on timing and location.

There is a reason why fan leaves have a large surface and why they extend out from the plant into the surrounding atmosphere. It has been a natural plant evolution resulting in the most efficient method of collecting photons for the plant's photosynthetic processes. Up to a point of light saturation (bleaching out of the chlorophyll), the more photons collected by the plant, the more plant material (tissue) it is capable of producing.

Since the discussing of leaf removal in its various forms is as old as the hills and repeats itself with every new crop of noobs, I'll post a series of discussions from different now defunct cannabis forums, posted years ago.

As posted at CW->

>Is it a good idea to remove fan leaves that block light to the lower branches or will this take energy away from the flowering?
>

Uncle Ben:
Rottytown and Joey gave a solid explanation that is botanically based. Leaves are the lifeblood of the plant... with a caveat - they have to be functional and productive. If those leaves are healthy and green and receiving good decent light, "leave" 'em alone. If they are yellow or prone to fungus attack, they can be safely removed without detriment to the plant's health as they are contributing little if any value regarding food production - and this is The Key. If they are quite low on the plant and not receiving much light, then mother nature has a way of first taking the goodies from the leaf and it's petiole (removing stored food reserves/metabolites) and dropping the leaves anyway - moot point, eh?

>Even though I've tied the branches down horizontally, many branches are now shaded by large fan leaves.
>

Don't worry about shading branches, worry about shading leaves. Lower branches will always be shaded if your main light source is overhead. Add side lighting or use highly efficient side reflecting panels to alleviate this situation to a degree.

BTW, notice how large fan leaves are? Ever wondered why? It's because they are the most efficient food producing unit for the plant. It's your call (while understanding their function) regarding what to do with them at any given point in time.

>The lights have been on 12/12 for about 3 weeks and the plants are flowering if this helps.
>

I grow the most amount of foliage going into 12/12 as possible. While folks are doing the 15-30-15 thingie, I'm providing plenty of N to support foliage production. In general, lot's of foliage=lot's of flowers. Once sexed and the stretch is over, then you need to back off the N and increase the P and K with a blend like Peter's Blossom Booster, an excellent blend from an old pro who I hit on once in a while. Call Jack up, he's a great resource - http://www.jrpeters.com/moreblooms.html

Bottom line? It is your call to determine what is most important to the plant during flowering - large, efficient fan leaves or small, ineffective bud leaves. Choose carefully regarding targeting fan leaves for removal or tucking them away, as their exposure to quality light is The Key.

Good luck,
Uncle Ben



As posted at cann.com->

Thunderbunny:

In his book "marijuana botany" Robert Connell Clarke states that:

Leafing is one of the most misunderstood techniques of drug cannabis cultivation.

He states that there are 3 common beliefs:

1.) Large shade leaves draw energy from the flowering plant and by removing the large fan leaves surplus energy will be available and larger floral clusters will be formed,

2.) Some feel that the inhibitors of flowering , synthesized in the fan leaves during the long noninductive days of summer, may be stored in the older leaves that were formed during the noninductive photoperiod. Possibly, if these inhibitor-laden leaves are removed, the plant will proceed to flower more quickly when the shorter days of fall trigger flowering

3.) Large fan leaves shade the inner portions of the plant, and small, atrophied, interior floral clusters may begin to develop if they receive more light.

Few, if any, of the theories behind leafing have any validity.

The large fan leaves have a definite function in the growth and development of cannabis. Large leaves serve as photosynthetic factories for the production of sugars and other necessary growth substances. They do create shade, but at the same time thay are collecting valuable solar energy and producing foods that will be used during the floral development of the plant. Premature removal of the fan leaves may cause stunting because the potential for photosynthesis is reduced.

Most cannabis plants begin to lose their larger leaves when they enter the flowering stage and this trend continues on until senescence (death of the plant) He also states that removing large amounts of fan leaves will also interfere with the metabolic balance of the plant. Leaf removal may also cause SEX REVERSAL resulting from a metabolic imbalance

He goes on to say that cannabis grows largest when provided with plentiful nutrients, sunlight, and water, and left alone to grow and mature naturally. It must be remembered that any alteration of the natural life cycle of cannabis will affect productivity.

This book has served me very well in my 12+ years of growing--I would have to side with RC on this one--those sunleaves are there for a reason--they dont grow just for show--leave them on there and let that plant grow naturally

Good Luck,
Thunderbunny
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
This is how i handle pot plants and i believe it helps increase Yeild.I think it is somewhere between desertrat and UB. the plant is master kush and i topped it at the second node(ub) then i let it get big enough to take cuttings and took them twice. once at 6 weeks and again at 8 weeks. every time i took a cutting i also took the matching branch from the other side of the plant, when i was done with that weeks cuttings i just reshaped the plant by balancing it out top to bottom.In that process i removed Whole branches and some indepentant fan leaves. Also , if i see a fan that is off color or out of place maybe blocking a new branch or budsite i whack it.I think this might be the happy medium between desert -- kinda hacked looking plant in the first post and Ubs take on never cutting fans.It's just another way of doing things that works on lots of plants, we used to do this to burning bush in the spring to help make them fatter.
 

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Nitegazer

Well-Known Member
UB,

First off, let me say that I very much respect you, and know that I am certainly a noob compared to you. I also like your anti-hype attitude. This hobby (?) is prone to all sorts of myths and fantasies; your perspective cuts through all that.

I would like to know if you would support limited leaf removal in certain circumstances. I can agree that removing a leaf reduces the sugars produced in the plant, and slows growth-- but sometimes isn't that slowed growth just what is desired? What if the slowed vertical growth is accompanied by a drive in the plant to produce more leaf sites, aka branching. Could leaf removal be a cousin of topping, which also removes leaf matter and 'injures' the plant?

BTW, have you read the OG FAQ on leaf removal, and do you support that as a concensus document?

Thank you ahead of time for your input and time.
 

Nitegazer

Well-Known Member
i'll keep it simple: results in 7 weeks.
I'm doing it now, though I can't say if it's the strain or the technique that is leading to mad branching on my Blue Cheese-- I don't usually work with indica. I plan on working a variety of techniques (FIM, Supercrop, LST, and de-leafing) for a comparison on a future grow. First, I need to get to know the strain better and establish a baseline.

I am excited to try it out with my G13/Haze-- anything that can bring sativas under control in a small scrog is worth trying for me.
 

Hotwired

Well-Known Member
Fellas fellas please

We need to relax with the testosterone and concentrate on things that are purely more ethical.......and much more invigorating to look at.

Such as a plum. A plum is a round fruit that likes to be eaten very gently. A plum can often be mistaken to take the place of a woman's bottom.

For example:

great_ass.jpg

After studying this picture for many hours I have come to the conclusion that YES, a plum may actually exist that takes the place of a woman's bottom.

It is therefore quite conceivable that you may also be able to nibble this fruit very carefully without damaging the fresh juicy innards.

Please post your point of views on this matter and refrain from any arguments. This seems like a special moment in time so let's not ruin it :hump:
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
I am not trying to stir the pot here, and i think desertrats pic#4 looks sweet. I just think there are alot of different ways to grow, dif strains, dif growers, dif growing methods, i just dont think it is so cut and dry with maryjane.nice plums hotwired, gunna go study that pic for awhile
 

YungMoolaBaby

Well-Known Member
Check this out:

Before


After


This is a pic of defoliation from a user named lifeless on icmag. Now, this is a fact when I say the after pic shows that the light will DEFINITELY penetrate deeper into the plant because there is less shading in the canopy. that is a fact.
 

medicalmary

Active Member
This is a pic of defoliation from a user named lifeless on icmag. Now, this is a fact when I say the after pic shows that the light will DEFINITELY penetrate deeper into the plant because there is less shading in the canopy. that is a fact.
It seems like those plants were butchered several weeks into flowering. In my opinion, it will lead to less yield. What you do in the vegetative state to shape your plants may or may not be good for growth, but telling noob growers to cut this far into flowering is irresponsible misinformation.

Also, more penetration deeper into the chasm of the plant is not necessarily a good thing. Those top fan leaves were receiving more light than the newly exposed ones, because they were much closer to the source. Now the plant needs to regrow fan leaves. Thus using more resources that could have been used for flower production.

mm
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I would like to know if you would support limited leaf removal in certain circumstances.
Don't mean to come across as combative, but I've got to ask, what is the problem with leaving a healthy leaf on the plant? Do you have a disease pressure problem? Look at my avatar, I retain most leaves by harvest with plants crammed into indoor gardens. When a leaf is no longer functional the plant will drop it via a CO2 processing flag.

I can agree that removing a leaf reduces the sugars produced in the plant, and slows growth-- but sometimes isn't that slowed growth just what is desired? What if the slowed vertical growth is accompanied by a drive in the plant to produce more leaf sites, aka branching. Could leaf removal be a cousin of topping, which also removes leaf matter and 'injures' the plant?
Topping is a training technique. It also removes flowering sites, is done early, and usually results in more leaf output via branching.

I let a plant grow at its own pace, neither trying to rush it or slow it down.

BTW, have you read the OG FAQ on leaf removal, and do you support that as a concensus document?

Thank you ahead of time for your input and time.
Haven't read the FAQ.

Good luck,
UB
 

desertrat

Well-Known Member
well, enough boring talk of theoretical botany and back to the point of my thread. that would be yield, right?. so, i don't have the final, final answer in yet, but i do have the initial final answer - that is to say i chopped the first of three, 12/12 lowryder/mystery today. this one had been fimmed and fan leaves pruned as described in the thread. the final two include another fimmed/pruned plant and a fimmed-only plant. visual comparison of the plants give me the expectation that the fimmed/pruned plants will produce at least 1/3 greater yield. anyone who's interested in the progress of the plants can check out my journal.

i don't own a scale for legal reasons so we'll have to settle for visual comparison, here's the first lowryder (note the bud shears for scale):

IMG_0048.jpg

for the record, i chopped at 2/3 cloudy trichs even though plant was clearly not done to make up for the severe deficit in stockpiles post smoking relatives' visit. obviously, i'm giving up a little yield but a guy's gotta have his priorities straight.
 

welshsmoker

Well-Known Member
have 2 cheese plants 7 weeks old 12/12 from seed, 1 i have virtually raped off all the fan leaves the other has not been touched, will post pics later for you to compare, make up your own minds but the photos dont lie....
 

desertrat

Well-Known Member
not sure what you're trying to prove by how you pruned. i wouldn't have pruned that way. what results do you expect?
 

plaguedog

Active Member
To the Hockey guy in this thread. GO HAWKS!

Been way to long since they won.

And nice post desertrat. I never really prune anything on my plants that doesn't need it. To each their own. I might give it a shot next time to slow down the main shoots, just for experimentation factor. When I top, usually two of the main shoots are a bit taller then the others, I guess this is one way of slowing them down to keep them at the same height.

Both you and UB are great growers with a lot of knowledge. You guys need to burn one together. lol
 

bjeminyro

Active Member
the stair step pattern simply means to start at the bottom node of the main branch, cut one fan leaf of the pair, then go up to the next node(where fan leaves are at 90 degree angle to the fan leaves in first node), cut one fan leaf, then at the third node you cut the leaf opposite the leaf cut from the first node, then on the fourth node you cut the leaf opposite the second node cut leaf. continue to the top. what you have left is a spiral pattern of fan leaves making their way up the main branch. you end up cutting exactly half of the main branch fan leaves.
Have you attempted to use this technique outdoors? Does it have the same effect? I'm planning on trying this out on at least one of my babes...
 
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