Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

Doobius1

Doobius1

Well-Known Member
Im thinkin about pulling my Stinkbud system out of the closet. This organic thing isnt working that well for me. Hydro outtages are common here is why I switched
 
eyeswideopen

eyeswideopen

Member
Was bigrick the electrician from stinkbuddies? Does anyone know if he's posting here now? Or does anyone know how a subpanel with a 3 wire feed to a detached accessory structure should be wired if the three wires are 2 conductors and a bare stranded aluminum?

Thanks
 
eyeswideopen

eyeswideopen

Member
Was bigrick the electrician from stinkbuddies? Does anyone know if he's posting here now? Or does anyone know how a subpanel with a 3 wire feed to a detached accessory structure should be wired if the three wires are 2 conductors and a bare stranded aluminum?

Thanks
 
oceangreen

oceangreen

Well-Known Member
eyeswideopen said:
Was bigrick the electrician from stinkbuddies? Does anyone know if he's posting here now? Or does anyone know how a subpanel with a 3 wire feed to a detached accessory structure should be wired if the three wires are 2 conductors and a bare stranded aluminum?

Thanks
Click to expand...
How many amps are you running. [FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]4/0 aluminum is overkill to run just for 100 amps.

How big is your conduit?

what panel are you using?

[/FONT]I have seen overhead triplex installed at a few places before, when we pulled it out the bare aluminum was pretty much gone throughout most of the run except for the steel messenger strand. Person installed it between his house and garage.

I would not advise using bare aluminum underground.

I locate and repair a lot of underground wiring - aluminum is always disintegrated if there was any damage to insulation. Copper will continue to work for a long time. Seen many improper splices in copper that worked for many years. Seen many improper splices in aluminum that only lasted a few weeks.[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]

[/FONT]Because you have a 3-wire feeder to this building or whatever, you need to make sure the neutral and ground bar in the panel are tied together with the bonding screw. You basicaly wire this the same as a main household service. The ground electrode goes from this combination neutral/grounding bar and outside to the two ground rods. This size of this wire has many factors to it. you could use #8 copper but it would have to be in conduit. Using #6 copper allows a conduit free install, but you still have to watch for protection from damage. Number 4 copper used to be allowed to be exposed to physical damage. So just try to keep this wire along the surface of the building until it gets into the earth.[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]



[/FONT]
 
reggaerican

reggaerican

Well-Known Member
eyeswideopen said:
Was bigrick the electrician from stinkbuddies? Does anyone know if he's posting here now? Or does anyone know how a subpanel with a 3 wire feed to a detached accessory structure should be wired if the three wires are 2 conductors and a bare stranded aluminum?

Thanks
Click to expand...
I could brob help you with some electrical questions..
 
lowe21

lowe21

Member
StinkBud said:
After 3 weeks the best 14 plants move to the veg system.

I use a dual container aeroponic system. The roots grow straight down which makes the plants easy to transfer to the flower room when the time comes.

The plants are under a 250W MH light set to 18/6.

Again, all my systems are on the same timer set to 1 minute on and 5 minutes off. This gives the roots the maximum amount of Oxygen without letting them dry out.

I run this nutrient formula for vegetative growth:

Botanicare Nutrients:
126ML Cal-Mag Plus
180ML Liquid Karma
540ML Pure Bend Pro Vegetative Formula


I start at 1500 PPM and bring it up to 2000 PPM by the second week of veg. I change the nutrients every 3 weeks with each new crop.

I adjust my PH to 5.8

Stay tuned for more...
Click to expand...
mine got to 1700 once and burned every damn thing i had. how the fuck are you running 2000? by wk 2 veg?
 
superstoner1

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
that was one of the big issues initially. i try to not go over 1000ppm and tested against stinks recipe i had more yield.
 
eyeswideopen

eyeswideopen

Member
Thanks for the help.

I'm thinking now that I'm just going to replace the whole run and do it right with a 4 wire feed. I starting getting into it today and realized that it's not worth putting a bandaid on something I'll just have to fix shortly.

I'm only running 100 amps to the sub at the detached building, but it's fed by the sub in the house, 150' overhead. So I'm planning on running 30' of #1 alum from sub in house to weather head, then 110' of #1 quadplex overhead to building, then another 10' of the same #1 into other weather head to sub in detached building.

What kind of wire is used from the panel in the house to the weather head where it's spliced to the quadplex? And then again spliced from the quadplex back into the weather head at the other end?

I'd love to run copper but it's cost prohibitive.

I also have to replace the feeder for my 200 amp service from the meter, which is on a pole 75' from the house, to the main subpanel in the house. It's currently also a 3 wire feed in 1.5" pipe, so just pulling new wires through isn't going to happen.

What type and size wire for the 200 amp feeder run in conduit underground? Also what size conduit?

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

oceangreen said:
How many amps are you running. 4/0 aluminum is overkill to run just for 100 amps.

How big is your conduit?

what panel are you using?

I have seen overhead triplex installed at a few places before, when we pulled it out the bare aluminum was pretty much gone throughout most of the run except for the steel messenger strand. Person installed it between his house and garage.

I would not advise using bare aluminum underground.

I locate and repair a lot of underground wiring - aluminum is always disintegrated if there was any damage to insulation. Copper will continue to work for a long time. Seen many improper splices in copper that worked for many years. Seen many improper splices in aluminum that only lasted a few weeks.

Because you have a 3-wire feeder to this building or whatever, you need to make sure the neutral and ground bar in the panel are tied together with the bonding screw. You basicaly wire this the same as a main household service. The ground electrode goes from this combination neutral/grounding bar and outside to the two ground rods. This size of this wire has many factors to it. you could use #8 copper but it would have to be in conduit. Using #6 copper allows a conduit free install, but you still have to watch for protection from damage. Number 4 copper used to be allowed to be exposed to physical damage. So just try to keep this wire along the surface of the building until it gets into the earth.
Click to expand...
 
H

hxvoc

Active Member
every had any problems with slime in the cloner? and what is the usual time before you begin to see any roots in the cloner? Im at 10 days now and dont have one root with 2 different strains. running tap water with a gh rapid start.
 
superstoner1

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
what are your water temps? could be too high temp or rapid start, really dont know anything about it. i never check mine before 14 days and have multiple strains, some take a little longer but not much.
 
browniesnblunts

browniesnblunts

Active Member
hxvoc said:
every had any problems with slime in the cloner? and what is the usual time before you begin to see any roots in the cloner? Im at 10 days now and dont have one root with 2 different strains. running tap water with a gh rapid start.
Click to expand...
What is your ph? I use 150ml of liquid clonex. Your ph should be adjusted to 5.8. Like SS said, your water temps are important too. I don't have temp problems in clone/veg area as they are all under florescent lighting. I have one strain and usually see roots at 10 to 14 days. If you look and see that your stems are turning brown and slimy, you definitely have a problem. The cutting stems should remain firm to the touch. I also "scrape" the lower part of the cutting to allow for easier rooting. Hope that helps dude. BNB
 
oceangreen

oceangreen

Well-Known Member
SS, So chiller, require pumps..

do I just as a Tee to the pump line and have one end going to the chiller in and the other being for the spray manifold?

are you still using a 396gph for your new system?
 
superstoner1

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
are you running nutes through chiller then to spray bars? if so just use a loop. i dont understand the t.
the only thing i ever used a 396 pump for was the cloner, i use the 633 forflower systems and 1056 for vegger.
 
oceangreen

oceangreen

Well-Known Member
I meant Like so, This is how I thought it should be done.

pumpTEE.jpg

This is the first time I use a chiller

I don't get the loop?
 
oceangreen

oceangreen

Well-Known Member
i am also planning to have a chiller the veg system, and one for 3 flower systems, I will be build the chiller setup with manifold for the worts..
 
superstoner1

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
if you plan on using one pump then go from res to chiller to spray bars, or use 2 pumps, one to feed chiller and one for sprayers. you will not get enough supply in your drawing.
 
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