Addressing Heat Issues

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
I have two rooms that are both 4'x4'x6.5' in size, one being my flower and the other respectively being my vegetation room. When I was constructing my rooms I was on a limited budget, and when it came time for ventilation I may have skimped out a little bit. It's starting to gear towards spring/summer again and like clock work the temps in my rooms are going up as well.

I haven't had issues all winter long, until the girl currently sitting under my 315w cmh started having some taco leaves about a week ago. I tried moving everything around in the room including the position of the 315w, which I even raised entirely, however nothing seems to be helping with my temperature issue. At the moment, there is a large box fan running on medium angled upwards, an oscillating fan running on high, locked and pointed directly onto the cmh fixture, and a small $10 clip-on fan which is actually oscillating just inches below the bulb.

I have a thermometer hanging a couple inches above my canopy level and it's reading ~80 degrees fahrenheit, which during the winter never really went above ~72 fahrenheit at the warmest points. I remember last summer getting temperatures of 109 fahrenheit at points with my 315w and led panel in the flowering room, which I refuse to let happen to me again this summer.

When setting up and purchasing my ventilation I went with sharing fans for each room. I have one fan which I use to push air into both rooms, and another fan used to pull air out of both rooms, through my carbon filter, and released back into the air smelling clean. I used a t-connector and simply split off from each fan to each room, which has about 10 feet of ducting on each side until it hits the room. I purchased a Can-Fan ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C2IWIE ) to extract the air out of both rooms, and only had enough money in the budget to get a cheap $37 fan to push air into the rooms ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUNCOURT-Inductor-6-in-Dia-Galvanized-Steel-Axial-Duct-Fan/1000018191 ).

There appears to be a somewhat negative pressure because the doors will close when they are with like half an inch to the frame. Does that provide any kind of "dead air", which would let the heat penetrate down to the plant? I keep telling myself that it's not ventilation because the only plant which is affected is the one under the cmh bulb, because the rest of the room and surrounding ladies are fine. I doubt an air conditioner would help me in that small of an area, and I already have all the fans running inside the flowering room that I can fit (reduced plant count). How can I effectively cool this area enough? I have never used any kind of a fan inside of my veg room and there has never been any issues with wet leaves or stale air on that side, however I am only running a 4 foot t5 fixture there as well so that might have something to do with it.
 

Lightgreen2k

Well-Known Member
You can completely seal your room and have temps up to 95 with Co2 and Rh set at 70. Your plants will thrive...

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So this is from a 4x4
Gavita 750
Sealed
Temps can be 92-97 at times.

The temp on the hydro meter is the ambient air temps ar 92 in the air. R/h was set too 70r/h...
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
I have been considering an a/c unit, however the rest of my flower room does not seem to be showing any signs of heat issues, it is simply the plant under my 315w cmh bulb which has the problems at the moment. I could purchase an a/c unit and it may help, but I feel like it would cost more to purchase and run it monthly than the current situation. I'll likely have to purchase an a/c unit within the next 1-2 months though to keep my room cool enough throughout the summer months.

You can completely seal your room and have temps up to 95 with Co2 and Rh set at 70. Your plants will thrive...

View attachment 3926363
View attachment 3926364
View attachment 3926373 View attachment 3926375

So this is from a 4x4
Gavita 750
Sealed
Temps can be 92-97 at times.

The temp on the hydro meter is the ambient air temps ar 92 in the air. R/h was set too 70r/h...
I don't think that running Co2 and a humidifier is a viable solution for me at the moment, as my current area is somewhat compact and constructed of rather thin wood and materials, afraid that the added humidity might cause issues with the structure and start warping.

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Let me know if adding a picture or two would help the situation and I'll get one up asap.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
run at night and bring in fresh air from outside is how i do here in CO during the summer. use a a 4" fan on a thermometer.

winter is no problem.
 

Lightgreen2k

Well-Known Member
I have been considering an a/c unit, however the rest of my flower room does not seem to be showing any signs of heat issues, it is simply the plant under my 315w cmh bulb which has the problems at the moment. I could purchase an a/c unit and it may help, but I feel like it would cost more to purchase and run it monthly than the current situation. I'll likely have to purchase an a/c unit within the next 1-2 months though to keep my room cool enough throughout the summer months.



I don't think that running Co2 and a humidifier is a viable solution for me at the moment, as my current area is somewhat compact and constructed of rather thin wood and materials, afraid that the added humidity might cause issues with the structure and start warping.

--

Let me know if adding a picture or two would help the situation and I'll get one up asap.
Pictures always help. You can use co2 bottles and they work well... I'm living proof and this is not hearsay.. two small co2 bottles and the refil packs. Ill take a shot later on.
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
Here are a couple of photos to explain the situation a bit better..

This is my flowering room, which is roughly 4'x4'x6.5', which happened to be 75 degrees fahrenheit when this photo was taken. The only way to actually get my room to that temperature is to leave the door propped open a couple of inches, otherwise it climbs up to 80-82 really quick, however I have always tried to catch it and just prop the door open when needed, but I would rather leave it shut and locked though. I have been rearranging things trying to find a solution for my issue, so I used some flex ties to hang my thermometer for a better reading. :lol:

1.jpg

What is not shown in the photo is the box fan, which is sitting right in front of the vent that brings air into the room, located bottom-right side in the picture. The box fan is angled towards the exit vent behind the cmh fixture, which causes air to be pushed in from the front, all the way across the room, and up into the corner of the room from the air-in all the way to the air-out.

3.jpg

That coupled with the tiny oscillating fan just below the bulb, and the larger oscillating fan locked into position on the cmh fixture is still not enough to prevent the top of my lady from experiencing heat stress. As you can see from the younger lady under the led panel has not experienced any kind of heat stress, which is literally right beside my other girl directly under the cmh fixture.

4.jpg

Ideally, I would like to go without the large box fan or the larger oscillating fan so I can get my numbers back to where I need them, however I would simply take being able to cool my area enough to where my ladies do not get heat stress. I cannot figure out where exactly the issue is at and how to address it.

Help?
 

sparkygeek

Well-Known Member
I have had similar problems although I do not think they were to the same extent... I was getting temps flirting with 80 under my 1000W HPS. Instead of an air conditioner, I opted for a light mover... It turned out to be one of the best investments I ever made. Dropped the heat at canopy level from 79-80 to about 72. I'm not sure how much impact it would have on an LED grow. As mentioned an air conditioner or finding some way to get the hot air out may be your only options... I just stop flowering in the summer... Too many problems! Best of luck!
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
I have had similar problems although I do not think they were to the same extent... I was getting temps flirting with 80 under my 1000W HPS. Instead of an air conditioner, I opted for a light mover... It turned out to be one of the best investments I ever made. Dropped the heat at canopy level from 79-80 to about 72. I'm not sure how much impact it would have on an LED grow. As mentioned an air conditioner or finding some way to get the hot air out may be your only options... I just stop flowering in the summer... Too many problems! Best of luck!
I have never actually seen a light mover, so it was interesting to see how that actually works, however it looks a bit much and expensive for my current setup. I am having a lot of issues with the temps bouncing around though, nothing seems too stable in that aspect. I just have the LED as supplemental lighting, as most of my lightning comes from the 315w cmh in the photos. Just may end up stop running in the summer because of the issue, but I'd rather figure out it so I can keep producing my meds all year around.
 

sparkygeek

Well-Known Member
I have never had a stress-free summer crop because I have to grow indoors... I find the environment was too hard to control. I understand the desire to have a stable supply of medicine. Boveda packs and mason jars have become a necessity for me to bridge the crop-less months.

At about 200 bucks light movers are not cheap. They do however eliminate hot spots very well! I am most surprised with the increased coverage as I have been able to drop from 1600 to 1200 watts. The plants are very happy with the temperature drop. I suspect I may even see a slight reduction in flowering time. I put the light mover in primarily to reduce hot spots but I could've justified the cost just by the reduction in power. Best of luck!
 
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