Mite Prevention Into Flower - can anything be sprayed after week 4?

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
I got jumped on last time by Russets and beat them back. I get cleaning, bleach washing, bombing plus sparaying with other stuff before reuing the room. Cleaning, wiping everything down etc.

So the translaminarsare Forbid 4F, Floramite, Avid and maybe another like Pylon.

Forbid appears to be the most benign as it is supposedly just an acid. So if I spray week 4 of Flower it should be good for about 21 days.

The last 4 weeks are the crunch.
Sprays supposedly good until harvest date - which is the best preventative:

1. Spinosad.
2. Big Time Exterminator
3. Mighty Wash
4. Lavender Essential oil (????). Supposedly comml grows use this in foggers.
5. Green Cleaner
6. SNS 217 which is mostly just Rosemary Oil.
7. ??????
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Flying Skull NukeEm
http://www.flyingskull.net/NukeEm.html

Purpose: NUKE EM® kills a wide variety of plant pests including Spider Mite, Broad Mite, Russet Mite, Cyclamen Mite, Whitefly, Aphid and Powdery Mildew. NUKE EM® kills eggs, larvae, juvenile and adult parasites. Do not spray on top of or mix with other insecticides. Mix and apply the same day.
NUKE EM® may be used prior to and the day of harvest. See website FAQ.
Fast Acting, Non-Toxic Active Ingredients ........................................ By Weight
Citric Acid............................................................0.05%
Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast, Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate ..........................99.95%
Total ...................................................................100.00%
Suitable for use on all food crops and ornamental plants.
 

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
Flying Skull NukeEm
http://www.flyingskull.net/NukeEm.html

Purpose: NUKE EM® kills a wide variety of plant pests including Spider Mite, Broad Mite, Russet Mite, Cyclamen Mite, Whitefly, Aphid and Powdery Mildew. NUKE EM® kills eggs, larvae, juvenile and adult parasites. Do not spray on top of or mix with other insecticides. Mix and apply the same day.
NUKE EM® may be used prior to and the day of harvest. See website FAQ.
Fast Acting, Non-Toxic Active Ingredients ........................................ By Weight
Citric Acid............................................................0.05%
Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast, Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate ..........................99.95%
Total ...................................................................100.00%
Suitable for use on all food crops and ornamental plants.
Big Time Exterminator and Nuke Em appear to be pretty similiar and newer bug sprays. They both have yeast and I wonder what those yeast enzymes do? They both have citric acid, I think.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Big Time Exterminator and Nuke Em appear to be pretty similiar and newer bug sprays. They both have yeast and I wonder what those yeast enzymes do? They both have citric acid, I think.
The citric acid is what kills the mites.. You can buy citric acid and make your own mite spray for pennies.
I just bought some citric acid at Fred Meyers for canning tomato sauce. So it's easily obtained. Citric Acid will kill spider mites and their eggs. You need to use it with multiple applications spanning multiple days to ensure you kill all stages of those disgusting pests.
 
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Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Big Time Exterminator and Nuke Em appear to be pretty similiar and newer bug sprays. They both have yeast and I wonder what those yeast enzymes do? They both have citric acid, I think.
That is interesting. Yeast? Who woulda thought... :roll:
Also, "potassium salts of fatty acids" is *not* inert -- it is insecticidal soap, which I prefer over anything that leaves an oily residue. It's a good idea to rinse buds that have been exposed to contaminants like bugs, dirt, mold, etc. when you chop em.
Mighty wash probably leaves the least amount of residue and kills mites on contact. Carefully spraying the undersides of leaves a couple of times per week will get you to the finish line with no residue.
Speaking of citric acid, isn't that what's used in many flush products? Maybe there's a use for that stuff after all... :dunce:
 

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
The citric acid is what kills the mites.. You can buy citric acid and make your own mite spray for pennies.
I just bought some citric acid at Fred Meyers for canning tomato sauce. So it's easily obtained. Citric Acid will kill spider mites and their eggs. You need to use it with multiple applications spanning multiple days to ensure you kill all stages of those disgusting pests.
Thanks for the the tip XTSHO. Mmmm tomato sauce - good on pasta. Any idea the mix of citric acid to 1 gallon of water? :-P
 

axcat

New Member
I got jumped on last time by Russets and beat them back. I get cleaning, bleach washing, bombing plus sparaying with other stuff before reuing the room. Cleaning, wiping everything down etc.

So the translaminarsare Forbid 4F, Floramite, Avid and maybe another like Pylon.

Forbid appears to be the most benign as it is supposedly just an acid. So if I spray week 4 of Flower it should be good for about 21 days.

The last 4 weeks are the crunch.
Sprays supposedly good until harvest date - which is the best preventative:

1. Spinosad.
2. Big Time Exterminator
3. Mighty Wash
4. Lavender Essential oil (????). Supposedly comml grows use this in foggers.
5. Green Cleaner
6. SNS 217 which is mostly just Rosemary Oil.
7. ??????
how late in bloom can you use azmax?
 

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
My organic solution is 15ml of Spinosad and 15ml of Azatrol to 1 gallon of water and I would stop using the Azatrol at week 5 but you can use the Spinosad up until the last week of flower. It breaks down in 3 days and it's OMRI.
 

Lightgreen2k

Well-Known Member
Stop spraying your plants. Those sprays supress the mites, but no total irradication.

Get preadator mites, specifically cucumeries and swirkskis...

Target Pests: Broad mites, Hemp Russet mites, Cyclamen mites, Western flower thrips, Onion thrips, and Bamboo mites


Description: Cucumeris is a species of predatory mite that feeds on immature stages of thrips. It also feeds on pollen, two-spotted mites and other species of mites. Adults are pear-shaped, tan in color, and less than 0.5mm (1/50th in.) long. Eggs are round, transparent, and 0.14mm in diamete

SWIRSKI-MITE

The generalist predatory mite A. swirskii is widely used against other pests such as thrips and whiteflies and is also very effective in controlling broad mites. Amblyseius swirski means a much more stable biological system for plant and crop protection. It not only effectively tackles thrips and whitefly, but also attacks spider mites. Moreover, the predator is extremely mobile and has good searching behavior. Because swirskii attacks a number of pest insects, it can maintain its population even when there are no more thrips on the plants. Swirskii remains present and can act as soon as thrips reappear. Amblyseius is a beneficial predatory mite endemic to the Eastern Mediterranean region. This species is considered a generalist predator, and readily consumes small soft-bodied pest species as well as pollen or plant exudates. Amblyseius swirskii has attracted substantial interest as a biological control agent of mites, broad mites, thrips and whiteflies in greenhouse.

A non toxic spray would be this
Screenshot_20170918-140853.png
Screenshot_20170918-140902.png
 

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
Stop spraying your plants. Those sprays supress the mites, but no total irradication.

Get preadator mites, specifically cucumeries and swirkskis...

Target Pests: Broad mites, Hemp Russet mites, Cyclamen mites, Western flower thrips, Onion thrips, and Bamboo mites


Description: Cucumeris is a species of predatory mite that feeds on immature stages of thrips. It also feeds on pollen, two-spotted mites and other species of mites. Adults are pear-shaped, tan in color, and less than 0.5mm (1/50th in.) long. Eggs are round, transparent, and 0.14mm in diamete

SWIRSKI-MITE

The generalist predatory mite A. swirskii is widely used against other pests such as thrips and whiteflies and is also very effective in controlling broad mites. Amblyseius swirski means a much more stable biological system for plant and crop protection. It not only effectively tackles thrips and whitefly, but also attacks spider mites. Moreover, the predator is extremely mobile and has good searching behavior. Because swirskii attacks a number of pest insects, it can maintain its population even when there are no more thrips on the plants. Swirskii remains present and can act as soon as thrips reappear. Amblyseius is a beneficial predatory mite endemic to the Eastern Mediterranean region. This species is considered a generalist predator, and readily consumes small soft-bodied pest species as well as pollen or plant exudates. Amblyseius swirskii has attracted substantial interest as a biological control agent of mites, broad mites, thrips and whiteflies in greenhouse.

A non toxic spray would be this
View attachment 4018360
View attachment 4018362
Thanks bro. I will check it out. Local place has swirskis and another one. They are not cheap. They appears to be a newer predator mite. Some of the older ones were really finicky about temps and humidity. Any experiences with Green Lace Wing eggs or larvae? They supposedly take 3 days to go from egg to larvae and the larvae eat anything.

The local bug place also sold me Botanigard Maxx which Colo Rec approves it for state. It uses spores too and pyrethin. I have not used it yet because I am not sure it is okay for flower.

https://www.bioworksinc.com/products/botanigard-maxx/botanigard-MAXX-label.pdf

Like the NoFly you mentioned, these appear to be newer technology in fighting bugs.
 

Lightgreen2k

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro. I will check it out. Local place has swirskis and another one. They are not cheap. They appears to be a newer predator mite. Some of the older ones were really finicky about temps and humidity. Any experiences with Green Lace Wing eggs or larvae? They supposedly take 3 days to go from egg to larvae and the larvae eat anything.

The local bug place also sold me Botanigard Maxx which Colo Rec approves it for state. It uses spores too and pyrethin. I have not used it yet because I am not sure it is okay for flower.

https://www.bioworksinc.com/products/botanigard-maxx/botanigard-MAXX-label.pdf

Like the NoFly you mentioned, these appear to be newer technology in fighting bugs.
The predator mites are great way to go. And you will not have to spray anything. They work fast too.

Actually

https://www.instagram.com/biotactics/

You say you are in Colorado

Screenshot_20170929-084717.png
 
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