Club 315w lec

SchmoeJoe

Well-Known Member
You really just wanna be right. Whatever you say at this point I'm done with it.
Ok, but if cooking the tops is causing the deficiency than the problem is from the light being too close and has nothing to do with problems related to the nutrients.

Besides, you said that air cooled lights cause nutrient deficiencies, which is ridiculous enough to start with. But then you said that they don't actually cause deficiencies but the damage they cause when kept too close is confused for deficiencies. Is it my fault that made a series of confusing and contradictory statements?
 
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Bad Karma

Well-Known Member
I remember the restrike issue but never found out the answers. But you don't like Galaxy because you say it doesn't re strike after power outage?

Mine turns back on fine after short and long outages and once a spike blew the growroom circuit and when I reset the breakers the LEC came on with the HPS. All on Galaxy ballasts.

The hps was plugged into a Titan 2 light Digital controller and the LEC and analog titan timer and a high temp kill switch.

Still not sure why you had a problem. Not challenging. Just don't see why it wouldn't come in if plugged in to a hot circuit.
I've been in touch with GrowersHouse.com and Galaxy about the restrike issue. I was told by both parties that my unit was functioning fine because Galaxy ballasts do not auto restrike after a power outage. It has to be unplugged and plugged back in manually to resume normal operation after a power failure.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I've been in touch with GrowersHouse.com and Galaxy about the restrike issue. I was told by both parties that my unit was functioning fine because Galaxy ballasts do not auto restrike after a power outage. It has to be unplugged and plugged back in manually to resume normal operation after a power failure.

So are the titan units tricking mine into thinking they were plugged back in?

I'm tempted to plug it right into a wall outlet and trip the breaker to see what happens.
 

Bad Karma

Well-Known Member
I have not ran LEC/CMH and dont plan to. Though it might have a better spectrum than HPS, I have not seen the evidence of the results.

I also dont really care for grams per wattage, as that mostly depends on strain. Too many variables involved in that number (tent, tent temp, reflector (or light density), water temp, PH, EC, feeding cycle, flushing, etc).

I think LED has every product beat on efficiency and spectrum, as it can be tailored rather simply, whereas metal halides and sodium lamps are at the beck and call of the resonance wavelengths.

I personally use only LED's and HPS. I now converted my veg into using only LED from T5's and love the response.

Here's a pic of DQ under the lights a few years back that I just found on my comp. Not sure what the yield was per watt, but it was definitely quite successful.
View attachment 4027822

One thing I dislike about Metal Halides is that it makes the plants stringy and tall. I like cramming the nodes as close together as possible to get a condensed cola. HPS works great for that, and LED makes up for the spectrum deficiencies, at least that's how I look at it.

Oh and about the densest heaviest yields being in a greenhouse....have you ever seen the CO2 enhanced bud? I think that might have nature beat. Too much hassle for me though lol.
So that's your picture of DQ under LED's and HPS? You mentioned living in the Emerald Triangle, right? I don't think so. Here's the origin of the pic you posted entitled "double_fun_op_hydrodensa_002-jpg". You gave it away by not renaming the picture file. So not only are you a complete fraud, but you're an idiot, as well.
Dummy.jpg
Proof of stupidity.jpg
 
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Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
Ok, but if cooking the tops is causing the deficiency than the problem is from the light being too close and has nothing to do with problems related to the nutrients.

Besides, you said that air cooled lights cause nutrient deficiencies, which is ridiculous enough to start with. But then you said that they don't actually cause deficiencies but the damage they cause when kept too close is confused for deficiencies. Is it my fault that made a series of confusing and contradictory statements?
This is the last time I respond to anything you say. Your argumentative, just to argue.
Ok, but if cooking the tops is causing the deficiency than the problem is from the light being too close and has nothing to do with problems related to the nutrients.

Besides, you said that air cooled lights cause nutrient deficiencies, which is ridiculous enough to start with. But then you said that they don't actually cause deficiencies but the damage they cause when kept too close is confused for deficiencies. Is it my fault that made a series of confusing and contradictory statements?
wow.

That's the whole point I'm trying to get it. Air cooled growers keep the lights too close. Whether you want to believe it or not nutrient deficiencies are commonly caused from environmental problems not just a lack of overdose of nutrients. A lack of transpiration from heat will change the nutrient needs, the problem with air cooling is that only the top half of the plants needs have changed. It needs more water than nutrients than its bottom half, because when a plant transpire it uses water much faster than nutrients leaving behind entirely too much salt.

I've set up anywhere from 4 lights to 2000 light grows. Not a single one uses any type of air cooling goods. No commercial grows I have ever been to uses air cooled. It's old technology. Just like HPS. It's an inefficient use a light putting glasss between bulb and plant. Inefficient use of power cooling lights that produce better when running at full temp. Inefficient use of money to buy $200 hoods that a 50 dollar hood could do better.

Air cooling is a thing of the past. Hop on board or be left behind.
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
So that's your picture of DQ under LED's and HPS? You mentioned living in the Emerald Triangle, right? I don't think so. Here's the origin of the pic you posted entitled "double_fun_op_hydrodensa_002-jpg". You gave it away by not renaming the picture file. So not only are you a complete fraud, but you're an idiot, as well.
View attachment 4028008
View attachment 4028015
Love this post....
 

pinner420

Well-Known Member
I run the 3100 straight threw, switching to flower.
or are you asking about switching bulbs
So if you have a single ballast and two cord sets you flip from one room to the other. With some of the soft start circuits in the new digital balasts i know it to be an issue.
 

MarWan

Well-Known Member
Yeah bit more expensive then what my budget is and trying to replace my 600 watt hps . Im looking into all the different lights. My budget is 300. 350 max
I think your best bet is to source parts separately
for example

Ballast
https://www.lightbulbs.com/product/philips-07357
or
https://www.amazon.com/Advance-IZTMH210315RLFM/dp/B00OIGF58E

lamp
https://growershouse.com/philips-mastercolor-cdm-tp-elite-315w-cmh-agro-lamp-t12-3100-k

315w Ceramic MH CMH to Mogul Base Socket Adapter
https://growershouse.com/315w-ceramic-mh-cmh-to-mogul-base-socket-adapter

total cost ~ $225 - $325

you might find cheaper at other places.
 

SchmoeJoe

Well-Known Member
So if you have a single ballast and two cord sets you flip from one room to the other. With some of the soft start circuits in the new digital balasts i know it to be an issue.
As far as running digital ballasts on light flippers if they aren't smart ballasts that recognize the change they'll keep trying to power the new bulb without going through the striking phase. You have to run a timer on the ballast so that it shuts off a few minutes before the flip and comes back on a few minutes after. This will basically reset the ballast so that it will properly strike the next bulb.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
As far as running digital ballasts on light flippers if they aren't smart ballasts that recognize the change they'll keep trying to power the new bulb without going through the striking phase. You have to run a timer on the ballast so that it shuts off a few minutes before the flip and comes back on a few minutes after. This will basically reset the ballast so that it will properly strike the next bulb.
Absolute bullshit. Obviously you've never tried it. Magnetic ballasts have capacitors inside so that when a flip box transfers power from one lamp to another, it will automatically strike. Digital ballasts with error sensing circuitry interpret the flip as a power fault and will stop operating.

Why is it that every time I turn around, you're full of shit?
 

Heisengrow

Well-Known Member
Awesome thread.what dude said up.there about air cooled hoods is spot on but sometimes people have to have them to control excessive heat so I don't fault them.there like autos they both have there place.
Scott's OG 22 days since flip.twin 315w cmh in wing reflectors FTW....


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