High Brix Marijuana

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I hope that I am not bringing back a dead thread, but I would like to jump in and start on the high brix idea. I have been getting my soil tested lately and I think that I am very close to getting it right. Really, I think that I am just missing some rock dust so I ordered some Basalt and Glacial Rock Dust. I have oyster flour and gypsum on hand but I am missing Mg along with trace elements. I have kelp on hand, but my previous soil mixes have been K tox and I am trying to avoid so much K this time. I think that is more to blame on molasses for AACT and coco coir for worm bedding, but I think that I have a better grasp on things now... The results were E-mailed to me, so I had to take a pic of the computer screen lol...
DSC00884.JPG
DSC00885.JPG
 

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
I hope that I am not bringing back a dead thread, but I would like to jump in and start on the high brix idea. I have been getting my soil tested lately and I think that I am very close to getting it right. Really, I think that I am just missing some rock dust so I ordered some Basalt and Glacial Rock Dust. I have oyster flour and gypsum on hand but I am missing Mg along with trace elements. I have kelp on hand, but my previous soil mixes have been K tox and I am trying to avoid so much K this time. I think that is more to blame on molasses for AACT and coco coir for worm bedding, but I think that I have a better grasp on things now... The results were E-mailed to me, so I had to take a pic of the computer screen lol...
View attachment 4056347
View attachment 4056348
Excellent info MSF. We appreciate you sharing it with us. By all means add as much to this thread as you like! Looks like youre dialing your soil in just right. Keep us updated. Any recipes youd like to share?
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Stang...

You figured out your main K tox problem being the Coco and way less to the molasses and even less to the kelp.

Coco is fine with a drain to waste, using bottled nutes, but not good for the kind of mixes we do.

Kelp meal will supply all your mineral and trace needed and you should keep that in mind. I still add rock dust (Granite meal), but no more than 2cups/cf. It's just not needed and using the 4/5 cups recc by some just turned my mix into mud. Especially true when using homegrown VC.

The whole deal with the rock dust is a soil deal + cost for remineralizing depleted farm soils being brought indoors and to container mixes. The cost to remineralize/acre using kelp meal would just be stupid expensive compared to rock dust and the rock dust would last for years since it breaks down so slowly. In a container mix, it will still be there when everythin else is totally decomposed.

I buy my granite meal by the 5gal bucket for $5 (75 to 90 lbs depending on how full I fill it), and my kelp meal by the 50lb bag ($71 shipped). The kelp meal will run out first, since I use it throughout growing and the granite meal just once, when constructing the mix.

The high brix concept is a good one, but just requires some tweaking for container mixes rather than soil protocols, is what I'm trying to say. It will take some sperimenting.
 

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Stang...

You figured out your main K tox problem being the Coco and way less to the molasses and even less to the kelp.

Coco is fine with a drain to waste, using bottled nutes, but not good for the kind of mixes we do.

Kelp meal will supply all your mineral and trace needed and you should keep that in mind. I still add rock dust (Granite meal), but no more than 2cups/cf. It's just not needed and using the 4/5 cups recc by some just turned my mix into mud. Especially true when using homegrown VC.

The whole deal with the rock dust is a soil deal + cost for remineralizing depleted farm soils being brought indoors and to container mixes. The cost to remineralize/acre using kelp meal would just be stupid expensive compared to rock dust and the rock dust would last for years since it breaks down so slowly. In a container mix, it will still be there when everythin else is totally decomposed.

I buy my granite meal by the 5gal bucket for $5 (75 to 90 lbs depending on how full I fill it), and my kelp meal by the 50lb bag ($71 shipped). The kelp meal will run out first, since I use it throughout growing and the granite meal just once, when constructing the mix.

The high brix concept is a good one, but just requires some tweaking for container mixes rather than soil protocols, is what I'm trying to say. It will take some sperimenting.
Well said Wet. Thank you for the input. Was hoping this thread would pick up some momentum. Your expertise is much appreciated around these parts.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
This thread is way above my pay grade but I'll take a stab. I have no scientific basis for the following statement. I only know what I've been told by others here on RIU that I believe are smarter than me so here goes:
I've heard that feeding a lot of fruits and veggies to composting worms makes for a "high brix" vermicompost. I take this to be true if ferments do a similar thing. I've seen how worm leacheate can turn a neglected house plant to a lush green so it stands to reason it is due to the natural sugars contained therein. I don't use ferments only because it seems like so much more work than brewing up an AACT. With an endless supply of fresh EWC at my disposal are ferments necessary?
Ive seen elsewhere in these forums how many have chucked their azomite in favor of basalt or whatever but I still got a hugeass bag of it. Is the presence of AL so heinous that I shouldn't use it anymore? Seems like such a waste. I also amend with glacial rock dust and oyster flour among other things.
Late but azomite, its not just the AL in azomite, its everything else.. AL is buffered by Si to a point, but azomite was given its name because it literally has everything from A to Z, (which has to do with the A and Z at its name's core).

As for high brix, brix readings are just measuring the amount of covalent bonds present in a tissue, from what ive gathered. If one sprouted sunflower seeds or any sprouts in fresh, living castings, vs store bought junk fed cardboard and cheap fillers, (not to mention it sits for a year or two before being sold, and also gets pasteurized so it can cross borders) I think it goes to say of course the results will be higher brix-wise in the fresh. We have tested the same recipe with different castings (via growing and making note of deficiencies and when they swept in) in several batches and its really clear to see.

As for the overall high brix regime, its a bit of an art and a science, just like nature herself.. if checks out AG LABS which was mentioned here they did a 30 day newsletter just about High Brix gardening, it was a dry read but in the end it basically said:

18 parts calcium, 1 part phosphorus, 1 to 2 parts potassium, depending on preferred K usage.
it goes beyond that, a bit too, cause there are soluble and insoluble forms of Ca, but thats their sweet spot according to all their testing and farm trials.

Edit: I forgot to mention, myco is a huge factor too, in increasing the uptake, avoiding droughts and deficiencies/lockups, and therefore via constant supply creating higher nutrient / brix density
 
Last edited:

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
.there is No difference between charcoal & bio-char
most bio-char these days comes from red cedar that has been killed by beetles in the western states
it's a soft wood charcoal not as dense as hardwood charcoal it crushes into powder easily ,where hardwood will not crush as easy
Bio-Char means that they gonna charge you more it ,
I use CowBoy Natural Charcoal @ Whole Foods all hardwood charcoal chunks
i take a sack place on side walk then cover with a old bathroom carpet over bag hit with maul ,hammer , instant bio-char for less than $5 a bag
$80.00 builda soil charged me with shipping for a like sized bag , again it's all charcoal .
Now Do Not Use the Kingsford Briquits those are made outta COAL & salt peter will kill plants
misinformation here.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Late to join, I guess this thread disappeared but now its back..

I hear people about ferments being a PITA. Water only is just so amazing to experience. When one has immaculate castings in conjunction with a healthy web of several fungi types, with a couple mineralized foliars they can cause better results then at least I've ever seen then ppl doing ferments, but I am still playing around here a fair bit ferment wise, so I will have to revisit this in a year or so after a few more rounds, and also, not all people take good photos so lets leave it at that for now.

Now as for azomite, its not just the AL in azomite, its everything else.. AL is buffered by Si to a point, but azomite was given its name because it literally has everything from A to Z, (hence the A and Z at its name's core).

As for high brix, brix readings are just measuring the amount of covalent bonds present in a tissue, that's what it comes down to really right. If one sprouted sunflower seeds or any sprouts in fresh, living castings, vs store bought junk fed cardboard and cheap fillers, not to mention it sits for a year or two before being sold, and also gets pasteurized so it can cross borders, of course the results will be higher brix-wise in the fresh. We have tested the same recipe with different castings (via growing and making note of deficiencies and when they swept in) in several batches and its really clear to see.

As for the overall high brix regime, its a bit of an art and a science, just like nature herself.. if one talks to AG LABS who writes a 30 day newsletter just about High Brix gardening, it comes down to certain ratios..

18 parts calcium, 1 part phosphorus, 1 to 2 parts potassium, depending on preferred K usage.
it goes beyond that, a bit too, but thats their sweet spot according to all their testing and farm trials.

Cool thread btw, guys!
Thanks Don; still working on putting a dent in the 1 lb bag of azomite I've had sitting on a shelf for 2 yrs now. I won't buy it again but I'm gonna use up what I got. Will order basalt next time which might be a decade or longer from now lol. I know my worm castings are on point; I hardly even give teas anymore.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
No harm no foul, bud. If it doesn't hit the compost or worm farm then the bene acids shouldn't be a scare factor in its (AL etc etc etc) bio release, and you will be burning it cleaner in the safer zones so to speak.

But yeah, making spicy piles with it, just a bit scary, what were we talking about again? aha jk, but you get the idea...
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Stang...

You figured out your main K tox problem being the Coco and way less to the molasses and even less to the kelp.

Coco is fine with a drain to waste, using bottled nutes, but not good for the kind of mixes we do.

Kelp meal will supply all your mineral and trace needed and you should keep that in mind. I still add rock dust (Granite meal), but no more than 2cups/cf. It's just not needed and using the 4/5 cups recc by some just turned my mix into mud. Especially true when using homegrown VC.

The whole deal with the rock dust is a soil deal + cost for remineralizing depleted farm soils being brought indoors and to container mixes. The cost to remineralize/acre using kelp meal would just be stupid expensive compared to rock dust and the rock dust would last for years since it breaks down so slowly. In a container mix, it will still be there when everythin else is totally decomposed.

I buy my granite meal by the 5gal bucket for $5 (75 to 90 lbs depending on how full I fill it), and my kelp meal by the 50lb bag ($71 shipped). The kelp meal will run out first, since I use it throughout growing and the granite meal just once, when constructing the mix.

The high brix concept is a good one, but just requires some tweaking for container mixes rather than soil protocols, is what I'm trying to say. It will take some sperimenting.
That is exactly what I did, I ordered some Basalt and Glacial Rock Dust. I think that rock dust is exactly what I need. I mixed oyster shell flour in with the pots that I have planted to raise the Ph. My rock dust should be here by friday... I am planted in 2gal pots right now and I am going to transplant into 8gal later and that is the soil that I am making/fixing...

I am getting excited and I pulled out a 4x8 tent out of storage, pushed a mustang out of the garage, and I am going to plant some veggies. I have plans to build a greenhouse soon that is dedicated to food crops. I would like to see high brix tomatoes and peppers, I'm getting old and fat lol...
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I can share some of my previous F-ups, I hope that you don't get tired of seeing my old soil tests. This is my very first test from Nov 2016. This was my first K and P toxicity problem. I had a lot of MetroMix #902 from the local nursery that was cheap and I ammended it with a bunch of different stuff including GreenSand and Rock Phosphate and I composted it. When the compost was finished, I had the best couple of harvest that I have ever had. Then, everything went to shit. Plants started to look worse and worse, so I decided to get my first soil test. K and P was through the roof and I believe that the Greensand and rock phosphate started to break down and cause problems.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA4AULZ/ref=asc_df_B01MA4AULZ5300000/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01MA4AULZ&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193150648923&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14658430276845797345&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026277&hvtargid=pla-307255905582
DSC00898.JPG
DSC00897.JPG

This is rabbit manure that I got from a commercial rabbit farmer, he has 160 rabbits in a warehouse and nobody really cleans up so he gives it away if you come shovel it... I added leaves and a LOT of egg shells and I turned it into my worm bin. I really don't think that this is where the crazy amount of K and P came from even though I used a lot of this manure.
DSC00369.JPG
Manure/worm bin test results...
DSC00895.JPG
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I have a concrete slab for composting, it has the tarp on it. The round compost is getting ready for the concrete and I can keep gathering while the other stuff finishes. To the right is my worm bin. I used flat, plastic pallets and made a U shape out of them. I use a lot of leaves and grass clippings... My compost is usually full of worms also, they show up on their own both Red Crawlers and Wigglers.
DSC00545.JPG
 

RandomHero8913

Well-Known Member
char·coal
-a porous black solid, consisting of an amorphous form of carbon, obtained as a residue when wood, bone, or other organic matter is heated in the absence of air

bi·o·char
-charcoal produced from plant matter and stored in the soil as a means of removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere.

Same-Same but different. Charcoal (hardwood lump) costing $10 goes in the grill until your stoned ass accidentally knocks it over before you even light it, and it falls into a pile of compost or soil that was too close to the grill in the first place and look at what you did, you just saved $30+ by making your own Biochar.
 
Last edited:

ANC

Well-Known Member
The coals from my braai fire (just plain dried wood that is burned) works fine as biochar.
There is a learning curve with the stuff. I recommend letting it fester with some compost and stuff to really soak up lots of microbes and nutrients. Otherwise, you will take a knock on yield the first year or so that you use it.
 
Top