New style Samsung LM561C Board

ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
You want to attach it to something firm. or they will bend, so some heatsinking is almost always going to come into it.
A 288 LED board should be able to do 100 to 108W depending on ambient temps. That being said, I think we are talking ambient that would kill your plants.
 
eyderbuddy

eyderbuddy

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
You want to attach it to something firm. or they will bend, so some heatsinking is almost always going to come into it.
A 288 LED board should be able to do 100 to 108W depending on ambient temps. That being said, I think we are talking ambient that would kill your plants.
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Say i just bolt it to a few aluminum L-channels just to hold the board... Are you saying i could be running one of these at 100W with only just enough aluminum to keep it in place and no actual dedicated "heatsink"?

I'm trying to compare them to BX & Samsung strips, jic.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
eyderbuddy said:
Say i just bolt it to a few aluminum L-channels just to hold the board... Are you saying i could be running one of these at 100W with only just enough aluminum to keep it in place and no actual dedicated "heatsink"?

I'm trying to compare them to BX & Samsung strips, jic.
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I think so, I am just using cheap channel, I think they use it to hide cables next to the wall...
 

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eyderbuddy

eyderbuddy

Well-Known Member
TYVM!!

BTW, i'm not trying to encourage or discourage any product.. I just like knowing the actual numbers.

Here's my comparisson atm:

One of these boards can be run at 100W with maybe no HS, and price is around 43$ shipped...

Vs

A Bridgelux (BX) 2ft strip could do 25W with confirmed no HS, and price is around 8 USD shipped...

So 100W vs 100W...

1 288 Board: 43$ @ 100W
4 BX 2ft strips: 32$ @ 100W (4x 25w [Strip maxes out @ ~29W])

Imo, a good point for these boards is the simplicity of only having to connect and assemble one "light" vs 4.. or 8 or whatever. But the questionable sourcing leaves me wondering about quality and manufacturing... Also i haven't compared Light output at all, this is a watt for watt comparison... But i'm assuming these are pretty much the top end when it comes to uMol/j

Again... i'm not trying to encourage or discourage any product.. I just like to know with as much certainty as possible what the best investment is in the long term.

If i'm wrong, please let me know... Open & intelligent discussions is what these forums are for.
 
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sharptater

sharptater

Well-Known Member
I've been checking out different drivers and I think I might have figured it out. Two hlg 240 c2100a running two boards. If I understand it right, at max voltage for two boards 120v x 2.1a= 252w so 126w per light roughly. That would put the light around 500w. Or a couple 240 1750 for around 400w and drive the boards a bit softer. I figure if a hlg 550 Can replace a 1000w hps, 400 to 500w of these very similar off brand boards could replace my 600w hps. I could be wrong tho.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm not an LED snob, I try everything, learn a bit from it all.
At some point, one has to make a call and live with what you bought without looking over your shoulder at what is new.
Go for the price point you are comfortable with at the moment. You don't get extra yield for the popularity of your choices.
 
sharptater

sharptater

Well-Known Member
The eBay link I posted is where I bought my boards. If you are interested in them, you can get them cheaper if you make an offer.
20180218_104236.jpg 20180218_104333.jpg
 
sharptater

sharptater

Well-Known Member
I'm new to diy lights. I've been studying up on it, but just trying to make sure I don't buy drivers that won't work.
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
sharptater said:
I've been checking out different drivers and I think I might have figured it out. Two hlg 240 c2100a running two boards. If I understand it right, at max voltage for two boards 120v x 2.1a= 252w so 126w per light roughly. That would put the light around 500w. Or a couple 240 1750 for around 400w and drive the boards a bit softer. I figure if a hlg 550 Can replace a 1000w hps, 400 to 500w of these very similar off brand boards could replace my 600w hps. I could be wrong tho.
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The official 260w kit consists of two boards on one of those drivers. With driver loss they run at 285w at the wall. 2 sets shits all over a 600w hps. They are supposed to be equal to 500w of HPS per kit. If they are I don't know because I don't own a sphere, but they defo shit all over a 600w HPS between them.
Your looking at 570w at the wall unless you dim.
 
sharptater

sharptater

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help guys. I think I'm gonna go with the 240 2100a. I don't have any experience with these boards yet, but everything I've read leads me to believe that replacing almost watt for watt should be a kick ass light.
 
sharptater

sharptater

Well-Known Member
I have a question I don't think I've seen people talk about before. I've read when you dim the boards the efficiency goes up, but does it affect the spectrum like dimming hid bulbs?
 
eyderbuddy

eyderbuddy

Well-Known Member
sharptater said:
I have a question I don't think I've seen people talk about before. I've read when you dim the boards the efficiency goes up, but does it affect the spectrum like dimming hid bulbs?
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Dimming doesn't necessarily make your lights more efficient, that only works when you're already running your light way above recommended specs, so the higher you go, the lower the output per energy consumed. Also driver efficiency tends to go down as you dim.

Also, the spectrum should not change. On HID systems the spectrum changed because powering the light with less power than necessary led to a different chemical reaction than expected... So different reaction = different colors.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
nc208 said:
Just to clarify the lm561c is also 0.3w not 0.5w like you posted above. The specs on the lm301b and lm561c are identical just the lm301b are more powerful. You actually need less of them versus more of them to equal a lm561c.
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Almost. LM561 is rated for 200 mA max current, the LM301B is rated for 180 mA max current. Working voltage is about the same. Test current is also the same at 65 mA.
 
sharptater

sharptater

Well-Known Member
eyderbuddy said:
Dimming doesn't necessarily make your lights more efficient, that only works when you're already running your light way above recommended specs, so the higher you go, the lower the output per energy consumed. Also driver efficiency tends to go down as you dim.

Also, the spectrum should not change. On HID systems the spectrum changed because powering the light with less power than necessary led to a different chemical reaction than expected... So different reaction = different colors.
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Thanks for the info.
 
nc208

nc208

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
Almost. LM561 is rated for 200 mA max current, the LM301B is rated for 180 mA max current. Working voltage is about the same. Test current is also the same at 65 mA.
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According to Samsung website and calculator the max drive current for lm301b is 200ma, the same as lm561c.
The max drive current for lm561b+ is 180ma - this is the main reason I am pissed at Alibaba vendors who use these and tell you they are 561c because of the different max currents.
 
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