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That is a good idea, I'll just take off one of the stars and see if it lights up. Am I reading the driver correctly that the LPF-16-24 will handle 13.2 to 24v? https://www.trcelectronics.com/ecomm/pdf/lpf16.pdf These tristars are mixed red & deep red, based upon that data sheet they can run...

Steve's Led shows Forward Voltage is 2.00V @ 700ma

So I wanted to add a red bar to my COB light, I purchased 4 red tristars with 10 leds total. Run at 700ma the vf should be around 20-22, the driver is a Meanwell LPF-16-24 I am getting 24v out of the driver but nothing is lighting up. Did I buy the wrong driver? If so could someone recommend...

I know that this is an older thread but I find this approach might be simple to implement and have a few questions. Does each fan in a multi fan light need it's own tach wire back to the Aurduino? Or can they be combined, I was considering using 3 into 1 pig tails for the fans and that wire...

What type of tap, bottom plug or taper do you recommend? Also M3 #4 or #5 is recommended on the Ideal spec sheet, is the 4-40 of similar size and why do recommend that over the M3?

How do you lay out the holes on the heatsink, are you just putting the Ideal holder on the sink and using a punch? I have the Ideal holder and the adaptor to put on, so 4 holes in each to tap. Any suggestions on how to simplify the layout process?

Wanting to add some red stars on an 18" heatsink, no more than 25 vf total @ 700ma. What size heatsink to passive cool would I need from heatsinkusa?

I was looking for a driver to run some supplemental red stars, vf of around 22 @ 700 ma. I bought the MW LPF-16-24 but did not see that it was constant current & constant voltage. Is this an okay driver for this application or did I screw up.

Thank you, I've been trying not to ask to many questions as I want to learn rather than just be told but I didn't know if my math was wrong or what was going on.

So you are saying that it is the outer perimeter x length divided by the dissipated watts. I don't understand how you are getting outer perimeter, page 1 shows the "perim" for the 4.9" as 36.40. How are you coming up with the 89.6cm per inch?

Man I thought that I understood this, what am I figuring wrong? I calculate 13" of the 4.9" sink (234.78 cm² x 13) = 2817.36 cm²/44 w = 64.03 cm²/w you are saying it is 75 cm² what am I doing wrong? Second question would be if any sink is greater than 75 cm²/w (for passive use) why does the...

I see what you are saying, I went back and read again. I don't see the specifications on the 1st page for that 12" profile.

I will not have that kind of width between the 6 3070 Cobs, even the smaller 4.85" profile doesn't leave me to much room in the middle of the lamp. I am wanting it to passively run about 44 w of supplemental lighting. On second thought it might work if I change the design a bit but is my math...

So I am trying to make sure I have the math down when sizing the heat sink, If I have 24" of the 4.85 sink I could run 48 watts passively at about 100 cmsq/w? And if my math is right and I have this figured out then the Arctic 11 2250cmsq/24.245=92.8cmsq/w, assuming I am running at 700mA? Is...

Thank you, I have been searching but finding little information. Most applications use only 1 and I need 3 on a string in series. What is the max Celsius that these cobs can run? I don't want to buy a switch that will shut down to soon.

It is not that I don't trust Arctic 11 fans or have I every really had a fan fail in any pc but I want to use bimetal switches in my design just in case. 3 CXA 3070's will be ran in series using the cpu coolers with a switch on each cooler, can I run these bimetal switches in series?

Thank you, so a separate string for the reds it is then. I was just hoping to use up some of that left over voltage!

Thank you both, I wasn't sure what the typical temp was. I think I have most things figured out (I hope anyways) but I do have another question. Lets say I am running 3-3070 cobs in series off of the HLG-185H-C driver and I want to add some deeper reds to the string. Is this possible running at...

I like the idea of using a switch but these are rated at 45C, should I be looking for a higher rated switch? Running at 1400 mA the datasheet shows max of around 100C, I don't want to have that high of temps but I also don't want a switch that cuts off early.

Is it possible to test the cobs without mounting to a heat sink? I'm not sure when I will have to time to get this light fully constructed but I wanted to verify that the CXA's would at least fire up, just for a second or so. That way if I had issues with any of them I could notify the seller...