Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
do you find it effects flowering time? or yield?
13/11 light schedule during flowering
- Thread starter Sealion
- Start date
ismann
Well-Known Member
Pistils can turn brown just from touching them as well.
I'm growing an "OG Kush" which is taking forever to ripen. Buds are super dense, trichs are cloudy, just not there yet. Most of the pistils are still white, but I go by trichs. I've gone from 12/12 to 11.5/12.5 and will probably go to 10/14 soon.
I'm growing an "OG Kush" which is taking forever to ripen. Buds are super dense, trichs are cloudy, just not there yet. Most of the pistils are still white, but I go by trichs. I've gone from 12/12 to 11.5/12.5 and will probably go to 10/14 soon.
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Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
unless i'm starting to see a lot of amber, i'll wait for pistils to recede, i don't like fuzzy buds
Gquebed
Well-Known Member
Me too.
I used to wait for the trichs start to turning, but by then the pistils have long since turned and then new pistils start growing...lol
So now... i just use pistils and calyx swell to judge when a plant is finished. To me, brown trichs are just a sign of root problems...
smokey dragon
Member
ok well I have her on a 10/14 light schedule do u think this is too radical? and also should I use full strength bloom nutes with my next water due to that fact I have only been using half to 3/4 strength at the moment?
ismann
Well-Known Member
10/14 isn't too radical. It is simulating late autumn around 30-40 degrees latitude.
I wouldn't up the nutes unless you see deficiencies.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Yield = NO! BIG NO! Having played with much shorter times in experimenting....Yields begin (and that's pretty damn small too) to get affected at 10/14 if they are run the whole bloom period. I use a changing light sched. at 12 weeks on landrace or long running sativa's that decreases on a slow curve as it goes deeper. This can give a smooth clean finish without loss of yield. If you run sativa's straight at 12/12 and they are going too long - drop to 10/14 and they'll pick up speed.....
As you decrease beyond 10/14 the decrease in finish time becomes more pronounced.....None really over average at 11/13.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
trich's slow to turn and foxtailing.
That's a problem with needing more low blue nm banding in your lighting during bloom or even later bloom.
foxtailing in sativa's going long is a sign that the plant is most likely done - Some strains don't "amber' much with HPS and some don't much at all.
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
Some high cbd (hemp) type strains only foxtail, like they don't structure much "bud" at all, just groupings of skinny stacked calyxs that appear to look like buds at some distance
I've seen elite cuts outcrossed to high cbd ditch weed that produced the same foxtaily structure throughout the life in flower
I've seen elite cuts outcrossed to high cbd ditch weed that produced the same foxtaily structure throughout the life in flower
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
I had that in a high CBD project....That reduced as it was cubed back to outside the industrial line used. Damn thing grew some of the biggest buds I've ever seen! The fucking 5-0 got them the day before I started to harvest them for the shops....It tested out at between 10/12 and 8/10 depending on the pheno.......DAMN that stuff flew off the shelves!
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
The terps on some of that stuff is phenomenal and unique, the trichs were like very very tiny encrusted diamonds, almost couldn't make out the glandular heads without magnification.
RetiredGuerilla
Well-Known Member
I have simulated Alaska's photo period and ran a (unknown origin) indica dominant strain down to 4 hours of light per day. That was back in 1992, She was grown in a phototron with supplemental sl-18 CFLS and jungle growth potting soil. She had huge (the largest i have ever seen) trichomes and pistils and was as good as anything i have grown from today's breeders or smoked in Colorado. Read Robert Clarke's Marijuana Botany is has some killer info on photo periods and latitudes. I also learned to tie plants down outdoors to increase yield and make my plants stealthy. In 1990 I planted a clone in a open field in full sun on Aug 1st tied her over at about 18 inches. Repeated that process as she grew and pulled 9 oz's dry bud Oct 28th at 37 degrees latitude. These days they call it LST. I don't think potency has changed either. I have visited the dispensaries in Denver and smoked grape ape and girl scout cookies ect ect. pffft. I was disappointed. If you are a skilled grower and have decent genetics you can match the medical dispensaries bud for bud.
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Son of a collier
Well-Known Member
I know this threads probably dead, here's what i found, growing on an 11/13 will RIPEN your girls very quickly note i said ripen.
imo the problem lies in that by cutting down the hours of light you are losing some of the most productive days of growth as your plants will ripen Before that time arrives, its not a case of just adding up the odd hours and deducting the days, when you look at natural daylight hours we don't get to 12/12 until mid september so possibly by shortening the light cycle the plant is fooled into thinking its nearly november and proceeds to ripen before the buds have finished swelling...these are my own observations and i would agree that yield is lower...i wouldn't personally mess with the standard 12/12 if you want colour let the temps drop in late bloom.
imo the problem lies in that by cutting down the hours of light you are losing some of the most productive days of growth as your plants will ripen Before that time arrives, its not a case of just adding up the odd hours and deducting the days, when you look at natural daylight hours we don't get to 12/12 until mid september so possibly by shortening the light cycle the plant is fooled into thinking its nearly november and proceeds to ripen before the buds have finished swelling...these are my own observations and i would agree that yield is lower...i wouldn't personally mess with the standard 12/12 if you want colour let the temps drop in late bloom.
sunny747
Well-Known Member
This is weird... 6 weeks ago I had a plant that had been in flower for 2 weeks or so. My tent got over crowded so I called a friend who said he would put it outdoors.
Since we are getting 15 hours of light right now I told him it would definitely go back into veg and finish in the fall.
Last weekend I went to his house and the plant had fully flowered and is now completely finished under 14-15 hours of light.
Since we are getting 15 hours of light right now I told him it would definitely go back into veg and finish in the fall.
Last weekend I went to his house and the plant had fully flowered and is now completely finished under 14-15 hours of light.
Billiam76
Active Member
Cutting down of the growth period (light) could be avoided by messing with the 12/12 by adding to the light period without changing the dark period. So that you now have up to 18/12 ( and the problem of finding an appropriate timer.) Personally I am looking for someone who has experimented with this already. I understand hesitation on experimenting on a crop that is close to harvest.
Maybe someone could make a timer if this idea is of any worth.
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Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Um, with all due respect. Your quite wrong sir. I run long, on purpose. I run 11/13 and have no effective early ripening - period!
My yields are not lowered at that time. In fact I get quite high yields!
In reality sir, 12/12 is very unnatural! It can be stressy to more strains then you think to simply run 12/12.
You need to do more research.....Been doing mine for decades...
Not really! Some verieties - Sativa's mostly. Revert when placed under lighting times over 13 or near it. Indica verieties will continue to bloom even under long light times. Ed said something like this years ago. I agree, as I put out blooming plants and let them run outdoors. I like what the plant and the lighting do to the bud structure...Plants are put out after being flipped but, before budset, in my case.
Member Torantoke and I have done the shorter lighting thing - Not the best idea to go much below 9 on.
As for blooming for long hrs. Unless the plant is already in bloom. Your not going to get very far.
Some indica's will begin to flower around 14 hrs of light. Not many and they tend to be at 14 or less hrs, not more then...Sativa's will be more around 12-13 and even if you have the sativa in bloom already and then increase time. The plant will revert to veg..
See above...
Son of a collier
Well-Known Member
My observations as i said, i've read plenty over the last 20 years or so and there are so many variables involved that the only "data" i like to trust when it comes to my crop in bloom, is my own gained from experience... could be that my observations are flawed ...probably to an extent....and limited to the strains i've grown which are generally sat dom hybrids.
i Have persevered with an 11/13 running 3 grows of cheese candy, jack el frutero, strawberry blue, chronic thunder and i had a reduced yield on each one this sends my stoner brain a clearish message that phytochrome cryptochrome balance thing is best left as is
Heil Tweetler
Well-Known Member
I've run 13 or 13.5 for the middle 5-6 weeks of flowering for some time. I picked up this schedule from @churchaze and have never had an issue. I grow fems most of the time. Zero issues with sex, great yields, frosty as hell, smooth as all get out. I agree with @churchhaze that the longer light period builds heavier nugs. Here is a stem that is going to 13.5 tonight. It's a bit later than usual but I'll let it get 3weeks at 13.5. I'll post again afterwards.
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churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Do you use 5 mins of 730nm after lights out as well?