6K Flower Room Suggestions (pics)

1weedz4

Well-Known Member
Hello,

I'm looking for and additional advice regarding bringing the humidity up in my 6000w room and the correct way to add nutrients before feeding out of 5 gallon water jugs.

Here's the story:

This is a Ca non-profit grow for our patients. I have been growing for years but the largest indoor was a 4000w room. This current room was built back in spring and I ran it as 3600w with excellent results but took way too long under 600w. I upped the wattage to 6k now and the humidity is too low at 26% with temps higher than I'd like at 85 degrees.

Setup

8 x 11 room

6 x 1000w digital ballasts

Carbon filter with 700 something CFM fan running to a split cooling 3 lights on each end

FFOF & 20% perlite

40 plants 5 gallon buckets

24,000 BTU split system AC

Intake filter

Running from 8pm to 8am

85 degrees 26-30% humidity

Strains:

Blackjack
Pie Face OG
Shapeshifter
Boss OG
Sour Patch Kids
Dream Queen
Kosher Kush

Nutrients:

Earth Juice veg
Earth Juice Bloom
Earth Juice Micro
Seaweed extract
Bone meal
Calmag
Molasses (switching back to Carboload or something else for carbs)

Questions:

1. What is the best way I should go about lowering the temps and raising the humidity? The AC is set at 61. Would a swamp cooler do the trick?

2. I read there should be a specific method adding nutes into the 5 gallon. For example adding the Bloom then shaking the jug, then adding the other nutrients. Is this true?

3. Is it ok to mix the nutes say in the morning and then let it sit until its time to water at 8pm when the lights come on? Or does it need to be constantly moving?

4. I was told to only use CalMag the first couple weeks of flower. I've been using it throughout for years and a master grower I know said he could taste it in the bud. Is this true?

Thank you for your replies.
 

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Jaybodankly

Well-Known Member
You can raises the humidity by watering the floors. Especially if they are concrete. They absorb the water and give it back as humidity as the floor is heated by the lights and room temp, swamp cooler would do it. Some people use misters spread around the room. Often a room controller can turn on/off equipment as needed to maintain desired humidity.
 

Daveindiego

Well-Known Member
That sounds like a lot of light in a small space.

But, my simplistic recommendation to raise humidity would be to leave a couple of 5 gal buckets full of balanced Ph water in the room.
 

1weedz4

Well-Known Member
Thanks, sorry for the late reply. There is panda film on the floor and it doesn't do much to water them. I water once a week and after that the humidity is fine but then goes back down gradually throughout the week. Looking to get a humidifier.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Your on an overkill with the panda on the floor. You don't need it.

I run 8K in 12x24's. 6 ft centering - light to light.

Cooling air for the hoods is drawn in from outside the room and exhausted outside the room - Cooling is done by a 24L central air/heat set up. That runs a 32K condenser. This bigger condenser creates better cooling for less money. It also gets a minor boost from a Tripp Lite server AC portable unit. All ballasts are OUTSIDE the rooms. Bigger reduction in heat then many think!

Air is drawn in from HEPA filtered outdoor air. This is connected to a greenhouse thermostat controlled switch that takes over cooling in the winter months for far less then it takes to the electric draw on AC units. In winter, the plant themselves keep the RH up....

Heat is strictly controlled to only vary by 3 deg max.

Rh is controlled to 40 - 45%. I use German industrial deheuy's I got out of a Building I own. I need these in the warm/damp months.

If your room is near full. You shouldn't be having RH problems.

BUT, your pulling air out of the grow at too great of a rate for the plants to keep the RH up. They should be enough!

Focus on things you can do to reduce this negative pressure rate.

#1: Can you eliminate the Can filter and just go with the odor? This is the biggest problem you have.

#2: Do not draw hood cooling air from the room and exhaust it back out! Do I understand that it's how the filter is used? Again, drop the filter if there is not a "law" or "rule" on smell....Draw from and exhaust to the outside of the room!

#3: Learn to feed/water daily, as that will help greatly in keeping RH levels up in low RH area's. You get a real good bonus from this practice - seriously more O2 to the roots!

Wetting floors is a great simple idea. I would be watching for molds to form on the floor though.

Your going to have trouble holding a good RH, no matter what you do. If you don't reduce the amount of air pulled from the room.

Good luck.
 

1weedz4

Well-Known Member
Wow! Awesome thanks. The air from the filter is being exhausted out of the top of the room into an attic. I agree that's it's taking air out of the room too fast. I needed a 700+ CFM because it comes to a split cooling 3 lights on each side. I'll work on that first. Thanks appreciate it.
 

SchmoeJoe

Well-Known Member
Wow! Awesome thanks. The air from the filter is being exhausted out of the top of the room into an attic. I agree that's it's taking air out of the room too fast. I needed a 700+ CFM because it comes to a split cooling 3 lights on each side. I'll work on that first. Thanks appreciate it.

The best way to control everything is to run a fully sealed room. If you're running air cooled hoods take air from outside of the space and exhaust it to the outside.

It sounds like you're running an a.c. and exhausting the room. @Dr.Who was right right about the plants being all you need to keep your RH where you want it and that you're exhausting the air faster than plants can keep up with. Not just that but if your a.c. is set to 61° and your temp going as high as 85° then you're exhausting the air faster than your a.c. can cool it. As far as that goes though you should also look into the affect of temperature differential. Your plants will perform better if you don't keep a constant temp but allow a 5°-10° difference between the night and day cycle. Definitely look into the ins and outs of that so you know enough to make your decision on it.

Whatever you do only water/feed when the plants need it. People say that when you water it pushes the old air out of the soil and pulls fresh air in behind it. The truth is that the water does push the air out of the soil but it only allows more air in as it dries out. If you water too often then you'll drown your roots when growing in potting soil. When using a more porous substrate like coco or hydroton there's enough space to allow air in behind the water and it actually needs to be watered more often anyway.
 
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