A Guide To Colloidal Silver

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I started making my own CS a year or so ago. Plan to use it for getting balls on a girl but use it around the house for other stuff too. Fixed a badly infected tooth in 2 days. Got rid of yellow tonails in a couple weeks. Wife healed an infected dog bite with it and saved her chickens from some nasty respiratory disease.

Good website here for wire and all sorts of info about CS.

Here's my setup. Powered by a 29.5V, (tested), wall wart for a wireless router I got at the thrift store for $2. Canadian fine silver coin, .9999, split in two with a cold chisel. Holes drilled into the ends to insert 6" fine silver wires to hang them down into the water. Made spacers out of caps from almond milk cartons and use various sized plastic items to adjust the height so the join of coin and wire is just above the surface. The wire is crimped very firmly where it hooks up to the coin for good contact. It all sits in a 1L flat bottomed boiling ball on a magnetic stirrer. Takes about 6 hours to make a liter of 12 - 15ppm CS. PPM meters don't read CS properly so you have to multiply what you read by 2 - 2.5. That link above has all sorts of info like that and various ways to make your own rigs. Sell good ones there too for a decent price. Nice to have a couple gallons sitting around. :)

Silver.JPG

Silver1.JPG

:peace:
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
I started making my own CS a year or so ago. Plan to use it for getting balls on a girl but use it around the house for other stuff too. Fixed a badly infected tooth in 2 days. Got rid of yellow tonails in a couple weeks. Wife healed an infected dog bite with it and saved her chickens from some nasty respiratory disease.

Good website here for wire and all sorts of info about CS.

Here's my setup. Powered by a 29.5V, (tested), wall wart for a wireless router I got at the thrift store for $2. Canadian fine silver coin, .9999, split in two with a cold chisel. Holes drilled into the ends to insert 6" fine silver wires to hang them down into the water. Made spacers out of caps from almond milk cartons and use various sized plastic items to adjust the height so the join of coin and wire is just above the surface. The wire is crimped very firmly where it hooks up to the coin for good contact. It all sits in a 1L flat bottomed boiling ball on a magnetic stirrer. Takes about 6 hours to make a liter of 12 - 15ppm CS. PPM meters don't read CS properly so you have to multiply what you read by 2 - 2.5. That link above has all sorts of info like that and various ways to make your own rigs. Sell good ones there too for a decent price. Nice to have a couple gallons sitting around. :)

View attachment 3810363

View attachment 3810364

:peace:
Nice setup you have there. I like the magnetic stirring machine. I could use one of those for some stuff, myself.
I've also used CS on myself topically, with positive results. The infected tooth healing is pretty neat.

As for multiplying the TDS reading, I haven't ever heard of 2-2.5x being an accurate multiplier, but I do know that is isn't an accurate reading straight up. I just use it as a guideline, anyway, and shine my laser through as well, to see particle concentration and size. If it reads 15ppm+ the solution can work for cannabis flipping. Do you have any pics of your completed solution? Is it clear/amber/cloudy?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
This CS I made May last year is still clear and you'll note there is no grey on the bottom or sides of the jug as it is micro-fine CS and the nano-particles of CS do not clump together an fall out of solution or stick to the plastic. The jug was full but I use it and give it to friends. Have another jug around here somewhere. It reads as 6 on the new ppm pen that I calibrate to a 20ppm sol'n. My old Hanna only measures 10X so I got the new one from the same place I ordered the wires for my rig.

CSMay2015.jpg

This jug was made the month before the other and I deliberately ran it way longer than I needed to go after higher ppm. It reads 10ppm so I figure 20 - 25ppm in reality.

CSApril2015b.jpg

Again note that there is no grey on the inside surface of the jug indicating very small particle size. Both those jugs sit on a shelf in the hall closet until needed. It's not pitch black in there either and proper CS isn't bothered by even direct sunlight for a long time.

Here's some links for you to check out. I've read similar tho not as detailed info on many sites when I was first getting into making CS so I'm confident that this guy is on the up and up. Giving out info that likely cuts into his profits is a sure sign that he's not just into it for the money.

Testing CS for Silver content


Why Higher PPM Is Not Always Better

CS making FAQ

:peace:
 

swedsteven

Well-Known Member
I think I try the battery method and leave it 18h in 1 litter Glas I'll get 1 feat 12 gauge silver wire 99.99 .have to keep them parallel wish me luck lol oh yeah hand some glove don't want to turn blue z.lol lower voltage mean smaller particule and take more timebut better .
 

Pig4buzz

Well-Known Member
Anyone. I decide to attempt to make fem seeds. I have sprayed CS 6 days. I have decided to not continue the spray due to limited space. No flowers showing yet. Question will it be safe to use this plant or trash it since no flowers have shown?
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Did
This CS I made May last year is still clear and you'll note there is no grey on the bottom or sides of the jug as it is micro-fine CS and the nano-particles of CS do not clump together an fall out of solution or stick to the plastic. The jug was full but I use it and give it to friends. Have another jug around here somewhere. It reads as 6 on the new ppm pen that I calibrate to a 20ppm sol'n. My old Hanna only measures 10X so I got the new one from the same place I ordered the wires for my rig.

View attachment 3810761

This jug was made the month before the other and I deliberately ran it way longer than I needed to go after higher ppm. It reads 10ppm so I figure 20 - 25ppm in reality.

View attachment 3810770

Again note that there is no grey on the inside surface of the jug indicating very small particle size. Both those jugs sit on a shelf in the hall closet until needed. It's not pitch black in there either and proper CS isn't bothered by even direct sunlight for a long time.

Here's some links for you to check out. I've read similar tho not as detailed info on many sites when I was first getting into making CS so I'm confident that this guy is on the up and up. Giving out info that likely cuts into his profits is a sure sign that he's not just into it for the money.

Testing CS for Silver content


Why Higher PPM Is Not Always Better

CS making FAQ

:peace:
Did you ever end up comparing the two batches?
 

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
Yes Chaos Hunter, thats how U get fem pollen.............. & fem pollen to a fem plant or flower = 100% fem seed.........thats how seedbanks can guarntee fem seed
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Yes Chaos Hunter, thats how U get fem pollen.............. & fem pollen to a fem plant or flower = 100% fem seed.........thats how seedbanks can guarntee fem seed
Poon I understood how we get fem seed, just wasn't sure if a femed female was genetically different than a reg female.
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Poon I understood how we get fem seed, just wasn't sure if a femed female was genetically different than a reg female.
I don't think they are. Assuming tou used Colloidal Silver, they should be the same as regular females, except that no males will be mixed in because all of the pollen contains X chromosomes which match up with the X chromosomes in the female plant's egg cells.
 

Daniel Lawton

Well-Known Member
What does a Colloidal Silver generator look like / How do I make my own:
Colloidal Silver generators can be either bought, or made. If you decide to buy one, aim for the one with the lowest possible voltage between (5-30v) and try to stay under 1000mA. The weaker current will help create smaller particles even though it takes a bit longer (only hours so it doesn't matter).

It can be made from a simple cell phone charger with the end cut off and stripped to look like this.


The exposed wires would then be taped (using electrical tape) to silver electrodes (pure .9999 silver wire), which would need to be kept apart (they can't touch), and spaced evenly/parallel in the water without touching the bottom or sides. A distance of 1-4" is best depending on your generators power.

You will also want to run an air pump with aquarium tubing and an airstone in the generator jar to keep the water moving around which will do these three things:

1. Prevent/slow down buildup that forms on the wires during the generating process.
2. Stir the solution to keep the silver particles from bunching up and agglomerating around the electrodes which will create larger particles, and possibly cause the solution to turn amber any time from when it is being made, to the next few days.
3. Allow for a creation of higher ppm Colloidal Silver (you only really need 15 but can use up to 40 if you want to spray less than 3x daily).

A store bought Colloidal Silver generator often looks like this:


And is run like this for 5-15 hours: (Note the air pump + air stone in the jar)


Throughout these hours, the wires will get discolored (esp the negative electrode which will turn blackish) and some buildup may collect on them as well (once again, the negative electrode is most drastically affected by this). Simply unplug your generator, remove it from the water, and wipe the electrodes clean. You can use a paper towel only, but it helps to have one of those green, non-metallic Scotch-Brite scrubbing pads (no chemicals added such as soap or anything). You should do this every 30-60 minutes or when you see buildup forming. The first few hours may only cause a rise in ppm of 1-2 if that, and little discoloration on the wires, but as time passes, and the ppm rises, the process speeds up exponentially. By the end, you may have to wipe your wires every 15-20min depending on your generators power level.

Once the ppm has reached the desired level (tested with a TDS meter), the generator is removed and the mixture is filtered through a 2 unbleached coffee filters, into another jar. This should filter out any larger silver particles that can and probably will form around the wires during the generating process, as well as any dust or anything else that may have found its way into the jar while the Colloidal Silver was being made. When you are done, you shouldn't see anything floating around in the mixture. It should look like pure water, except that a laser beam shows up when you shine it through.

What is a plant treated with Colloidal Silver supposed to look like:
It should look normal until a couple days after spraying, when you may see some unusual flower growth. After about 2-3 weeks, the plant will be growing almost exclusively pollen sacs, and should look just like a regular male with clusters of "balls" lacking many stray pistils.

The following plant was completely doused all over (including the tops and undersides of the leaves) 2-4x daily with homemade Colloidal Silver, and it wasn't burned in the least bit.

Pollen Sacs


Q&A / Troubleshooting:
Q: When should I start spraying my plant?
A: If it is a photoperiod plant, start spraying a week before flipping the lights to 12/12 (or whatever flowering schedule you use). If it is an auto wait until you see pistils and then start spraying the day the first couple appear. Even if you bought the seeds as autofems, I still recommend waiting until you see the first couple pistils because there is always the chance that you were send seeds with males in them and you wouldn't have any way of knowing until you started popping males out of your "female seeds".

Q: Why is my Colloidal Silver amber/yellow/grey colored?
A: The silver particles are slightly larger than they would be in a clear solution. They can still work for cannabis reversal, but I don't recommend ingesting the stuff. Amber/yellow is the first color you should notice. As it begins to get darker, or greyer, that means the the particles are larger and larger. The plant above was reversed with only amber Colloidal Silver as a test and it worked fine.

Q: How do I fix that color problem?
A: Add an air pump and an air stone to your generator jar, and clean the wires more often (every 30min, or when you see buildup forming). Discoloration on the wires (esp the negative electrode turning dark) is fine and expected, but if you leave it for too long you will notice that more and more silver particles build up on the negative electrode and start breaking off and floating around your mixture causing it to be cloudy and lower quality.

Q: How long does Colloidal Silver last / How do I store it:
A: Colloidal Silver remains at the desired potency for at least a month.
It should be kept in glass (plastic can attract the silver particles and ruin the mixture), and in the dark.

Q: Can I only spray one part of the plant to force pollen sac to form there and only there?
A: Yes.

Q: Can I then take that pollen and pollinate pistils somewhere else on the same plant, or will that cause hermies?
A: Yes. properly made Colloidal Silver does not carry over into the pollen or the seeds created using it, nor does it cause unwanted changes in the plant, its DNA, its offspring (and their DNA), etc. If you used a low quality spray and ended up stressing the plant to the point that it "hermied", and then used that pollen, you would be inadvertently selecting for the low stress tolerance gene that allowed the reversal, but if you start with solid genetics, and a good quality spray, you should have nothing to worry about.*

*Here are actually some posts by members on here (who have experience using pollen from a plant to pollinate its own pistils). I asked around to get a few different perspectives and see if I was missing anything, but they all agreed. (If anyone posting below would like their quote removed, feel free to pm me.)









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*Disclaimer: This post in no way promotes the cultivation and/or breeding of cannabis illegally.
 

Daniel Lawton

Well-Known Member
I followed Hazy's instructions for making colloidal silver using a nice power supply which shows the precise current.

Just like he said, good quality colloidal silver doesn't harm the plant. Can't even tell it's been sprayed there, except maybe after about 10 sprays, there's the hint of shiny silver on the leaves (might be my imagination).

I did find some of the net instructions to be a bit confused about how much current is drawn. Mine barely drew 1mA at the start, and only at voltage of 14. At a voltage of 30 (which someone recommended), it only drew 2 or 3mA. Even after 6 hours, it never drew more than 20mA.

The laser beam didn't show up enough to notice until after a couple of hours. You can get those at the dollar stores these days, as a key ring laser plus white led flashlight, for no more than $2.
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
I followed Hazy's instructions for making colloidal silver using a nice power supply which shows the precise current.

Just like he said, good quality colloidal silver doesn't harm the plant. Can't even tell it's been sprayed there, except maybe after about 10 sprays, there's the hint of shiny silver on the leaves (might be my imagination).

I did find some of the net instructions to be a bit confused about how much current is drawn. Mine barely drew 1mA at the start, and only at voltage of 14. At a voltage of 30 (which someone recommended), it only drew 2 or 3mA. Even after 6 hours, it never drew more than 20mA.

The laser beam didn't show up enough to notice until after a couple of hours. You can get those at the dollar stores these days, as a key ring laser plus white led flashlight, for no more than $2.
Awesome! Glad the guide worked for you. A shiny silver shimmer on the leaves usually does start to form after a while. It's kinda cool.
 
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