AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
Chicken poop is pretty bomb for your soil too. keep a few in your garden let em eat the bugs off your plants and shit all over.
Another CARNIVOROUS Manure... Hmm, interesting, more people like to use Carnivorous manures....... Chickens eat insects, just like Carnivorous bats.... There is a WIDE veriety of Carnivorous manures out there for commercial purchase.

if your soil neutral for example (7), by adding nutrient with acidity level of 6, you wont dis-balance the soil PH level.
Believe whatever you want kid. Theres a reason people who use Hydro nutes FLUSH their plants duering the veg period... its because the nutrients change the PH of the soil.

Plain and simple: i have a UNIVERSITY Study course backing me up... what do you have? your personal opinion? well guess what... Personal Opinions DON'T MATTER when dealing with facts.... http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/

ah man was just going to say this that's why they people in Europe had to rotate corn crops. Just a little history lesson bet you didn't know that the Industrial Revolution in Great Britain is due to the introduction of the Potato to the diet in Europe. When people grow corn it takes alot of nutrients out of the soils and such which is why they rotate (we all know this, just clarifying). Once the potato was introduced they were now able to plant in all their fields without problems of rotating thus they could produce more food. Once they started producing more food their population BOOMEd I don't know the statistics off hand but there is a huge coorelation between the introduction of the Potato and the population boom. anyways now that they don't have a scarce food and are able to maintain bigger populations and essentially have time to do other things than just farm food... the Industrial Revolution was born..

Sorry that was my morning rant to go with my coffee and blunt.
Happy growings..
:clap: Thank you sir, for restoring some of my Faith in this forum....

1 cup of cricket poo
Wow... if a poop is 1% of body weight, and a cricket weights like... 100 Mg, then how many crickets have to poop to fill up that cup? :dunce:
 

bonkia

Well-Known Member
Im new to the teas excited to give it a try wanted to get some veteran input!
Mycos mycrorizea
sea bird guano
sea kelp
worm castings
Molasses
humic acid
fulvic acid
catlyst

From what i was told when the tea is half empty all i need to do is add molasses and everything will recoliniz... Which sounds false to me
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
From what i was told when the tea is half empty all i need to do is add molasses and everything will recoliniz... Which sounds false to me
If making a purly Bacterial then yes. But nutrient teas need nutrients to be added as well.

Never use Fungal spores (Such as Myco's) with Humic or Fulvic acid. it will kill the fungus.. use the acid one watering, then the fungus the next. feed the fungus directly into the soil... other than that your good to go :D
 

bonkia

Well-Known Member
Im growing in cocoa btw, i was useing gh however, after doing some lurking im going to swtich to dyna gro.
 

qazy

Member
Excuse me sir - university degree. Keep PHing kelp and Alfalfa, and do not use anything that mother nature gives you without treatment. Everyone knows that university degree its all you need. I would assume you only buy thing from "proper hydrophobic" stores, because it's the only place that sell so called "fertilizer grade" ingredients.
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
university degree.
Who said that? Now your putting words in people's mouths? gota be going prighty low to try that. heres an exact quote....

i have a UNIVERSITY Study course backing me up
http://landresources.montana.edu/nm/
I would assume you only buy thing from "proper hydrophobic" stores
No actualy, i test it MY SELF.... you know, you CAN to that... WOW
View attachment 2144894
PH, N, P and K test kits... like $50 for like 100 of every pellet, and the 4 testers.....

it's the only place that sell so called "fertilizer grade" ingredients
See above statement. its Called a soil test kit...


I've been saying this the whole time, if you would do a little research, you would know these things....
 

qazy

Member
Who said that? Now your putting words in people's mouths? gota be going prighty low to try that. heres an exact quote....
Sorry m8, I was in hurry. That's true, university course, my bad there.

My point is, that you can test every milligram of what you are adding to your tea or compost. If you have time means and desire, go ahead. But I am saying it's not necessary. Most people don't do it, and especially older generations of farmers or "village" people never did. And their crops were not bad a at all. It possible that by doing all that shenanigans you can improve your harvest let say by 10%, but honestly unless you grow for profit - day to day ingredients will do just fine. And especially when you consider that every 4 month, more or less, you will change your soil for the new batch.
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
you can test every milligram of what you are adding to your tea or compost.
Make large controlled batches.... everything in the batch has the same nutrient content. plain and simple...

especially older generations of farmers or "village" people never did. And their crops were not bad a at all.
You keep bringing up this thing about "Older generations" Well geuss what? i have some news for you. the Planet has been Salted. almost nothing grown in todays society was anything CLOSE to 100 years ago, let alone an Era ago.

You want to know what it was like back in the day? goto AMISH country. they will SHOW you what i mean by balancing crops and land.

And especially when you consider that every 4 month, more or less, you will change your soil for the new batch.
WOW how far behind ARE you? Seriously, no GOOD organic growers throw soil out.

Heres some info to catch you up....

Originally posted by 3LB/3 Little Birdie's
Reposted by BlueBear Jan 8, 2007
Organic Gold III - Soil Heresy by 3LB
soil heresy by the 3LB ~ CW

We are about to commit heresy and tell people that we ALWAYS re-use our soil. No soil has left the garden's of the three_little_birds since before the turn
of the millennium! Some growers will tell folks to throw out their soil after every grow, and we've known plenty of commercial growers that happily do
that to make sure they do not have pest or nutrient problems. Maybe that even is the best solution for your grow, we can't say for sure, as always your
mileage may vary. We are poor simple medical users (and aging hippies, etc.), and spending something like $20 for a bag of FoxFarm soil rubbed us wrong!
With our container system it might take 2 full bags of that soil for 3 plants!

Now again . . . someone who is involved in commercial (rather than personal medical) production might not be so inclined to bother with making sure their
soils stay healthy and all the work we go through to ensure our soil's health, but for us it is a labor of love and we feel our results speak for themselves.

Anyway, like we said, our soil never leaves our grow, it has all been recycled to the point that we could not even begin to tell you how many times it's
been through our system! A good commercial potting mix has always been the base for our soil. We look for a product which is 100% organic, and recommend
that you avoid ALL chemical salt ferts like the plague if you value your soil health. This especially includes timed-released chem ferts like osmocote!
Depending on what we have found for soil, we go from there. Some cheap organic soil mixes contain little more than peat, pearlite, and dolomite lime. These
absolutely need amending to start off. Some organic soil mixes are much more complete and need little or no amending for starters.

Organic mushroom compost is certainly one of the hot soil mediums these days, and we've certainly had great success mixing it in with our soil remixes to
add fresh organic matter. We can't however comment on it's longer terms effects in soil remixes. Since we found a cheap source of mushroom compost, we
have also been top-dressing our plants with it almost exclusively, so we imagine that we will soon discover if remixing the ‘shroom compost will have any
detrimental effects.

Once through it's first grow (the plants fed 100% organic with earth juice, teas, fish ferts, and liquid kelp) our container of soil has it's root balls
pulled and it is dumped into a very large rubbermaid container w/ a lid (50 gallon container) These container's are longer than our 2x3 growing containers,
so with 2 people lifting and dumping, it's not too hard to keep this step neat. Each bin can actually hold more than the contents from a single grow-container
(2 grow-containers of soil will actually fit, but this makes mixing in amendments very difficult and messy.) Now we proceed to give back to our soil mix
what our plants have taken (and then some.) We get out our kelp meal, bone meal, blood meal, greensand, rock phosphate, diatomaceous earth, and dolomite
lime and get mixing. Depending on the soil's condition this is also where we might add a little more perlite if soil compaction looks to be a potential
problem.

Folks are going to ask us how much of these different supplements we add, and the only honest answer we can give is - it depends! If the plants we'd raised
previously in that particular container had shown any signs of being short on a major nutrient N–P-K - it's not too hard to throw in an extra cup or two
of the appropriate organic supplement (Blood meal / Alfalfa meal for N - Bone meal / rock phosphate for P - kelp meal / greensand for K and other micro
nutrients.) A nice full 16 oz plastic cup of each of the prior mentioned ingredients would be our baseline for supplementing this round of soil re-mix.
We will generally double this amount if any nutrient shortage has shown. . .

The greensand and rock phosphate are very slow to dissolve and be absorbed by plants, and are not normally used by many indoor container gardeners. Their
slow release is what helps to make our system work! They will still be in our soil for the next couple of grows, doing their part for our soil health.
This is the point where we would also add some of our own compost (assuming there is some finished and ready - if not some mushroom compost has proven
to work.) Our compost is made from the usual standards, household veggie food scraps and such, with the addition of all our used grow scraps. Fan leaf,
chopped stems, and the "leftover's" from processing by bubble bag or tumbling are all composted and returned to our soil.

Now we will wet this whole mix down lightly and let it "cook" for a spell. We have three large bins like this for soil remixing and composting. Folks always
want us to be specific on amounts and times, and we do a lot of this by feel, so when we say we let the soil cook for a "spell" - how long depends on feel
and need! The minimum time our soil sits is two weeks, and it's sat waiting for use for a couple months like this during slower times in our grow. This
time gives soil bacteria a chance to work and make the various organic amendments more quickly and easily available for our plants. We use this soil again
for another grow, watering with our usual array of teas, Earth Juice, etc. If needed, containers are top-dressed with compost (our own or mushroom compost
depending on availability) as any soil settling occurs.
Upon yet another successful harvest, the soil is reconditioned again. Once we reached our third mix of soil, we cut back on the soil amendments. The greensand
and rock phosphate are still working from the last re-mix so we don't need to add any more of them for sure. What remains in your soil at this point in
terms of nitrogen and such may depend on your strain, some strains are much more greedy for some nutrients. So if our plants haven't shown any signs of
yellowing as they mature, we figure there is nitrogen enough in the soil for the next round (at least to get started - we can add more N on the fly with
fish ferts and teas if needed) and no blood meal is added. If yellowing has occurred then blood meal is added again. Kelp meal is usually added again since
many of the major liquid organic ferts seem a little short on potassium, and also because we like the micro nutrients kelp meal provides to our plants.
Dolomite lime will probably be necessary again too, and it's possible your soil will need even more this time than last. Any peat in the soil adds acidity
as it decomposes, and the lime balances this as well as providing magnesium. After the standard 15 - 30 days of standing moistened waiting for use this
soil is used still another time. Now our soil has grown 4 crops of herbs and is still going and growing strong. At this point, we have started plants in
our soil remixes directly alongside plants in fresh potting soil, just to make sure our mix wasn't subtly stunting our plants.

The plants grown in our 4th and 5th generation soil remix did far better than those directly alongside grown in fresh from the bag FoxFarm OceanForest potting
soil! Because our garden is a continuous harvest setup, once we are to our 4th or 5th remix, it's starting to get hard to keep track of exactly what soil
has been remixed where, since half used bins of remixes are often dumped together to make room for another round of used soil coming from the garden. So
we simply continue adding amendments by feel as needed.

This is how the three little birds use soil. We know we break the rule we have all been told to follow - to never reuse soil. Even those "radicals" we have
seen reusing soil, have always described letting their soil go out to their veggie gardens or flower beds after 3 or 4 grows. We decided to push the envelope
and see how far we could take it . . .
We still haven't found a limit for the number of times we remix our soil, and our harvests and plant vigor keep improving.

Oh, just to add another bit of heresy, you may have noticed our container grows suspended above the floor on wheeled furniture movers. It's a very convenient
way to keep the plants in larger containers mobile. . . but you also must realize then (if you think about it) that out grow containers have NO drainage.
Our soil mix, which is now has been remixed double digit times, has NEVER been flushed! We warned you all at the start of this post that some might consider
it heresy . . . And we can’t even begin to tell you how we can break these rules and get better results than average - but it works for us and we wanted
to let folks judge for themselves. (Eds note: 3LB claimed to regularly get above 2g/watt as well as reaching high marks of 4g/watt!, and they posted the
photos to back it up. If anyone has any of these photos or posts please add them to this thread or section)

one thing we might add - we certainly would not remix soil from any containers where we'd had a bug or disease problem - even getting bud mold would be
enough for us to say - no thanks to a soil remix

we were discussing this among "the birds" the other nite - and one line that a little bird said comes to mind . . . "Farmer's don't strip their topsoil
after a harvest - or even a few - in fact their soil is their most precious commodity - why should it be different for indoor gardening as long as proper
care is taken to build healthy soil?"
It possible that by doing all that shenanigans you can improve your harvest let say by 10%, but honestly unless you grow for profit
^ Just for the record here... i DO grow for Profit, and i harvest 448 Grams every 8~ Weeks from a 1000W Flowering room, and 400W Veg room to Augment my income a little.

 

qazy

Member
WOW how far behind ARE you? Seriously, no GOOD organic growers throw soil out.
Who said anything about throwing it out?

You keep bringing up this thing about "Older generations" Well geuss what? i have some news for you. the Planet has been Salted. almost nothing grown in todays society was anything CLOSE to 100 years ago, let alone an Era ago.

You want to know what it was like back in the day? goto AMISH country. they will SHOW you what i mean by balancing crops and land.
I was about to post more points, but then realized that this will continue the vicious circle and we will never stop. You grow for profit, I understand that your really need to have ROI in consideration. I grow for personal pleasure and peace of mind and my time is limited.

And just for the record, I do not need to go to any Amish place. My grandparents, grow all their own vegetable, fruits and berries that last them year around since they were born because their parents used to do the same (Yes they live in the village). The only thing they buy is meat and dairy products.
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
Who said anything about throwing it out?
You did. heres an Exact quote....

especially when you consider that every 4 month, more or less, you will change your soil for the new batch.
^ See. you said change your soil out, which means dropping the old soil for new soil.....

Soil is Generaly used for 3 grows, composted for 6 months to a year and then re-used..... Never stitched out. once you have soil composting, you have soil for ever....


My grandparents, grow all their own vegetable, fruits and berries that last them year around since they were born
This doesn;t change the fact that they were born less than 80 Years ago. They have to be younger than 80 to be able to competently grow all of their own foods.... Meaning they were Born in the depression Era... Yea they may know how to Save and use what they have, but its nothing like the way people lives 300 years ago.

Amish people live by a Religous standard which does not let their society move beyond the 1700's. Many, if not all of the methods used by Amish people were the EXACT methods being used 300-400 Years ago.....

Yes they live in the village
i live in a "Village". The definition of Villige is a group of houses and associated buildings, larger than a hamlet and smaller than a town, situated in a rural area..... This matters? there are 1300 people within 15 miles of me, 90% of them BUY their own food....


I was about to post more points, but then realized that this will continue the vicious circle and we will never stop
Actualy, it would be good if you would keep posting. MANY of the things you are trying to say have been said, and proven wrong in the past. Those threads are lost now, But this thread is Stickied.... So far, i have been able to give information on University Study guides, Soil test kits, Explain agriculture 300+ Years ago and how its still relevant As well as Educating people about Fertilizer grade ingredients.....

All in all, i say thank you for Raising these subjects...
 

qazy

Member
^ See. you said change your soil out, which means dropping the old soil for new soil.....
Change != throw out. As you said don't put words in my mouth.

This doesn;t change the fact that they were born less than 80 Years ago. They have to be younger than 80 to be able to competently grow all of their own foods.... Meaning they were Born in the depression Era... Yea they may know how to Save and use what they have, but its nothing like the way people lives 300 years ago.

Amish people live by a Religous standard which does not let their society move beyond the 1700's. Many, if not all of the methods used by Amish people were the EXACT methods being used 300-400 Years ago.....
Are you high right now? WTF dude? You are going to tell me what my family grow/grew/will grow. Seriously man get real.

i live in a "Village". The definition of Villige is a group of houses and associated buildings, larger than a hamlet and smaller than a town, situated in a rural area..... This matters? there are 1300 people within 15 miles of me, 90% of them BUY their own food....
Nice definition, obviously if they would live in town they would not be able to sustain the farm. duh. And btw, I know who Amish people are ;)

Actualy, it would be good if you would keep posting. MANY of the things you are trying to say have been said, and proven wrong in the past. Those threads are lost now, But this thread is Stickied.... So far, i have been able to give information on University Study guides, Soil test kits, Explain agriculture 300+ Years ago and how its still relevant As well as Educating people about Fertilizer grade ingredients.....
I think making people think that you must PH everything, and use only so called fertilizer grade ingredients is deferentially a great help. If you do it, does not mean it's required. I have this impression that you do things only by the book, and never had a real vegetable or any other farm experience. I might be wrong, sorry if so, but that the impression I have after that prolonged conversation.
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
You are going to tell me what my family grow/grew/will grow? I have this impression that you do things only by the book, and never had a real vegetable or any other farm experience. I might be wrong, sorry if so, but that the impression I have after that prolonged conversation.
#1. Your Parents, and Grand parents live in a Society where the CLOSEST you can get to Earlier Era's is the 1930's.... thats what im telling you. Im telling you that Because the things your grand parents do DONT MATTER and you seem to think they do.... Plain and simple, your grand parents probably grow Average Vegtables, OUTDOORS, on Already produced soil (AKA Doesn't NEED to be Acidified, or alkinated).... So yea, go check out Amish country...

#2. you ARE wrong, and you have been wrong the whole time. maybe if you actually looked back over the conversation you would see that. seeing as i have been able to post Legitimate, Proven information, and you have been able to rant on and on using your PERSONAL OPINION.

#3. i do things by SCIENCE. and SCIENCE says Marijuana CAN NOT grow in PH Above 8 or Below 5 for Soil and Above 7 and Below 4.5 for Hydro. Plain and simple. Adding CRAP to your soil, which that you dont know what is in it is there for a DUMB idea, isn't it?

Heres some SCIENCE for you....
View attachment 2146942

P.S: You might want to consider this... Were not growing Radishes.

Just for the record: The ONLY reason they say to NOT use cat and dog feces, is Toxoplasmosis. Intestinal worms.... So unless you cat / Dog has worms... your good to go.... Healthy animal poop is just that... HEALTHY
 

bonkia

Well-Known Member
So i called the company that makes great white which has a bunch of different bacteria and mycrorizea in it aswell they claim it will do just fine in fulvic and humic acids..?
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
So i called the company that makes great white which has a bunch of different bacteria and mycrorizea in it aswell they claim it will do just fine in fulvic and humic acids..?
If it is in the SOIL and Established, then there will be no harm.

Adding the Fungi directly to the tea will kill the Fungi. Bacteria and Fungi work against each other when in a hostile environment (Such as highly oxygenated water) Because they both feed off of the same things.

BUT once in the soil, the Fungi attaches its self to the root system of the plant and establishes a base. The Bacteria feed off of the Carbohydrates in the soils, so they dont fight for food any more. Once established in colonies the bacteria and fungi will be much stronger than in their raw form.
 

Da Almighty Jew

Well-Known Member
Tea'
3 gal water
6 tbls bone meal
6 tbls blood meal
6 tbls psb guano
(bubbled for 48 hrs prior next additions)
4 tbls ewc
1tbls molasses
(bubble for 12-36 hours, till whenever it starts to foam)
1:1 ratio
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Myth: Foam does not mean anything when it comes to AACT. Check out microbeorganics and learn more. I will post more on my Outdoor thread on this subject also in my thread in the Organics section.keepem green dirrtyd
 

Corbat420

Well-Known Member
Myth: Foam does not mean anything when it comes to AACT. Check out microbeorganics and learn more.
:D i was just going to post a couple myths... more when i have more time.

Myth - Bone/blood meal: Bone meal and Blood meal do NOTHING. it takes around one month for Bone meal to become active, and 2+ weeks for blood meal to become active... IF you are using the sludge from the bottom of the barrel as top feed then for all means, add bone/blood meal, if not then it is kind of a waste....

Myth - PH doesn't matter: PH DEFINITELY matters with organic's. Many organic product's are Pre-tested to ensure the PH levels are around 6.5, but when using Home made, or self collected fertalizers a person NEEDS to be aware of the PH or they will experiance major problems.

Myth - Soil doesn;t NEED to be cooked: WRONG. soil Needs to be cooked for multiple reasons. #1 nutrient activation. #2 PH ballancer activation (Lime and Gypsum) and #3 degradation of all organic matter... the more degraded it is, the better for the plants.
 

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
so im curious,
growers who use fox farm or happy frog soil, where do u keep you ph of you water/tea feed?
out here in southern cali my RO water is at about 7.0 and when i brew my tea i bump it up to about 700 then i dillute to about 1:5 which leaves my pph at about 50-150 and my ph to about 6.7
should i lower my ph more? or bump up my ppm?
 

malignant

Well-Known Member
:D

Myth - PH doesn't matter: PH DEFINITELY matters with organic's. Many organic product's are Pre-tested to ensure the PH levels are around 6.5, but when using Home made, or self collected fertalizers a person NEEDS to be aware of the PH or they will experiance major problems.

.
for this very reason dolomite lime is your best friend. it helps balance and maintain balanced ph levels.
 
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