AeroJunkie's High Pressure Air-Assisted Hydro-Atomized Aeroponic System (HPAAHAAS)

hammer21

Well-Known Member
I agree with this statement because in my own experience playing around with feeding times...short cycles may help the roots puff out, but the plant itself slowed down growth considerably. That is why I used long feeding times from clone, then shortened it to develop the lateral root system (without accumulators and solenoids), and then increased the feeding time again when there was more hungry mouths to feed. Instead of a few hundred root tips to feed, you in turn get thousands...resulting in faster growth and bigger yields. And correct me if I'm wrong...but isn't that the point??
This statement makes me wonder if this is the biggest mistake me and everyone has made. Get fuzzy roots then give the plant what it needs more food = longer spray times to feed more mouths. Hmmmm
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
This statement makes me wonder if this is the biggest mistake me and everyone has made. Get fuzzy roots then give the plant what it needs more food = longer spray times to feed more mouths. Hmmmm
Well, it's really more mouths, but the same single body plant- meaning it can more efficiently extract the water/nutes from what is misted as opposed to losing more down the drain. In a proper dialed in system, the runoff is almost non-existant as the plants use nearly 100% of what is sprayed..
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Feeding is a fine line- too much and you shut the root airs ability down. Think traffic jam, or water dam, or... the idea is to give them just enough to stay hungry. Of course the amount/frequency likely changes as the root mass develops.
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
Been thinking about the efficiency of my compressed air recently and considering replacing my gast oiless with a hydrovane or rotary screw compressor with a 110 gal or larger pressure tank. Im looking at a hydrovane right now that supplies 120 cfm. My thought is that because my nozzles demand such a large volume of air it may be more efficient to run a lager cfm compressor.

Any quick thoughts would be great because the compressor is priced to sell.
 

indrhrvest

New Member
Any quick thoughts would be great because the compressor is priced to sell.
Compressed air is the least effecient energy source. It's going to cost a lot regardless. This was a good compressor for us.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2HP-Noiseless-Oil-Free-Dental-Air-Compressor-/270949108957?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f15d34cdd

I might be selling mine soon.

We determined that we would have to rule out AA for use in commercial applications. The energy costs would simply be way to high. The small, low volume, high pressure diaphram pumps like the Shurflo's used an extremly small amount of eletricity, less than .02 KWH a day.
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I already ruled it out. it was 25hp. A little overkill even by my standards. Im just going to pickup an ingersoll or campell with a dryer and oil separator so I can spray paint and run a supply line off it. Dryer obviously wont be used for the garden line. If it was a smaller unit 5-7.5 hp I think a hydrovane would be a very viable option as the newer ones come with variable speed motors.
 
Hi people I am new I would like to intoduce myself I have very little hands on exp besides a couple unsuceccful closet grows in soil where I learned the lesson of to much heat where I was woefully underequiped to undertake even a cheap closet grow which taught me you can't have enough air movment I am VERY impressed with the HP setups on. This thread VERY nice crafmanship and that hood is sic where do you get that or was it fabbed NICE build a big lite mover to move 6' and save even more money COOL eh anyway I did quite a bit of research on the whole HP true aero and determined its WAY To expensive so I thought some more and I came up with something that I will be sharing with you advanced horticularists that have experience with true aero
 
This system can be made into a hybrid too but ever since I starting dreaming of having a nice grow I learned about aero and how it can be so much faster and explosive for growth OK here it is its pretty simple I will list the materials : 1.at least two 45 or 50 gallon sterilite totes a third could be used to enlarge nutrient tank by running tube down to bottom tote with a stop cock in it at proper level 2. 10 net pots 3. Some flat gasket material to put between top and bottom tote on lid and bottom of top tote to help keep all the moisture in. 4. A couple differnt mesh size wire screen and bug screen or somthing like that just something that's gonna catch roots when they get to bottom of tote. 5.between one and three waterproof computer fans I think two might be good to push fog up into top tote you will cut a square or rectangle in the lid of bottom tote to mount fans in 6. A 12 disk ultrasonic nebulizer with bouy put into bottom tote.
 
I want to share this with experienced people because I am unsure about the nebulizer I heard the plates clog really bad from salts and I'm not sure the droplet size is ideal and also I heard they produce a lot of heat and when roots start growing down onto screen in bottom of top tote that is bent in a fashion to keep roots probably at least a cuople inches OFF bottom. And the nebulizer would probably be best at what level??????? In bottom I think about 4-5 inches deep so at the minimum we could have the lizer about 6" from root ball or do they produce to much heat to have it that close if so we could lower the level and use that third tote for supplimental tank with a tube going down with a stop cock into bottom tank.I like those big new. 50 gallon sterilite totes they seem to be perfect size for at least 10 sites
 
Like I said its pretty simple and can be made into a hybrid by simply cutting lid bigger putting air stones into bottom tote and letting roots grow into water but I wanted to adhere as much as possible to true aero so I thought the roots growing down onto screen would still make it true aero the fans would be on whenever nebulizer is on pushing air up into top tote. Now would a 12 disk produce enough fog?? the main things I am wondering about is the nebulizer is it too hot does it clog to much if it does how do we overcome that??????you could even run two nebulizers too and still end up cheaper than other ways of true aero I.e. 1800$ HP pump 16.00$ nozzles I was thinking this system would be very quite too and I was thinking a 1000psi pump is probably pretty loud which might disturb neighbors !!!! In an APT setting ok there it is the product of about 15+ years of thinking and dreaming and studying was it all for naught or could it work effectivley as a true LOW pressure aero planter??????all you aeronauts thank you for your attention and any knowledge and critisism will be welcomed I have never seen this in any of the DIY threads and you tubes and if its viable for true aeroponics it will be much cheaper
 
Two 50 gallon totes one on top of the other fans in lid nebulizer in bottom tote gaskets to keep as air tight as possible screen bent and put into bottom of upper tote supplimental tank and stop cock
 
One planter setup would be about 400$ or less I think??? BAM 40 oz per planter I suppose about 10 when done man but two or three of these planters every 4 months or so BAM and you never have to go support the bud man again and get those little sacs I'm stoked if I can ever try it
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
If it were that cheap and easy don't you think we all would be doing it that way? Unfortunately the fog droplets are too small to sustain the plant once it starts getting any size to it. The heat IS a big issue, and the screen you mention won't stop roots at all... Sorry, don't mean to burst your bubble, I started this adventure thinking the very same, as Cavadge did, and probably most of us have considered it. Unfortunately, it just won't work unless you discover something new that we haven't noticed- and that's probably not too likely because there's quite a few of us and none are lacking in innovativeness- but still, there's always a chance. If you ever manage to make the fog dense enough to make up for the small droplet size, then the fog is so thick it acts like a liquid-gas and smothers the roots from oxygen. About the only chance you may have is to deep fog, then evacuate the fog every few minutes to allow oxygen to the roots. It's not ideal and by the time you may have it sorted out you would have spent less time and money on HP aero. ;)
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
you could even run two nebulizers too and still end up cheaper than other ways of true aero I.e. 1800$ HP pump 16.00$ nozzles I was thinking this system would be very quite too and I was thinking a 1000psi pump is probably pretty loud which might disturb neighbors !!!!
Furthermore, I dont know anyone using a pump close to 1000psi? HP aero when referred to in the majority of these threads is between 80-120psi on average. And they are much cheaper than the 1800.00 you quoted. It seems to me that there is a lot of reading and research still needing to be done on your part. Nevertheless, keep feeding your innovative ideas, they are in fact the first seeds planted in any garden. Welcome to the club.
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Furthermore, I dont know anyone using a pump close to 1000psi? HP aero when referred to in the majority of these threads is between 80-120psi on average. And they are much cheaper than the 1800.00 you quoted. It seems to me that there is a lot of reading and research still needing to be done on your part. Nevertheless, keep feeding your innovative ideas, they are in fact the first seeds planted in any garden. Welcome to the club.
True, matter of fact the ideal pressures to get the correct droplets are right around 80-100 psi. One may wish to use pressures somewhat higher than this to store more nutes in the accumulator, but the final regulated pressure seems optimal at 100psi with most of the nozzle specs we use. The Aquatec 8800 pump is great and well under $200. The biocontrols nozzles work very well and are $20 for a 2-pack and not too many are needed for a reasonable chamber size. An entire hp aero setup can be built for $600 or so I would venture to surmise, perhaps even cheaper. My "True HP-Aero for 2011" thread outlines the concepts, build materials and even includes sources and prices as of last year. And you will also need an accumulator tank, but they are not too pricey even at a 10 gallon storage tank.
 

thump easy

Well-Known Member
fuck guys i wish i had money i got some improvements on mine i already added chambers changed the lay out for the plants open them up like bat wing as plants grow bigger and spread out the cannopy for biger yield i wish i was on your page i added bublers to the res but right were the return is the roots act like a fucken filter catching all the root mater neer the drain and aqumilating gunk i want to invent a nosle to just spray the roots and knock off the exess of the roots it seems every time i run h2o2 the roots at the ends of the chambers stay white but as i get closer to the drain they darken i have prayed them down with my R.O. water and they clean up nicely i put my finger tip on the end of the evolution and spray them down they whiten right up but that were the root problems start, yes i know canna zyme works but my nutes bounce back and fourth and i dont use cana zyme till the very end but man i got some ideas and adding your guys mister over the top on timmers and also letting the chamber run dry and activating your fine mist over the top mabe two days dwc because the system i got is a true dwc lasser injector but i have noticed on acations were i get your fine fibbers just tord the top of the roots i would like to experiment i realy would im gona have to get with you tricky and see what your working with on those misters mabee first couple of weeks mist and then uses the laser lines for dwc i do this with my nutrients i bounce diffrent root hormones because they react diffrent to each line of hormones and i bounce my zymes also and my microherizens its crazzy but it works im just woundering if i should try fucken with your misting set up??
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
fuck guys i wish i had money i got some improvements on mine i already added chambers changed the lay out for the plants open them up like bat wing as plants grow bigger and spread out the cannopy for biger yield i wish i was on your page i added bublers to the res but right were the return is the roots act like a fucken filter catching all the root mater neer the drain and aqumilating gunk i want to invent a nosle to just spray the roots and knock off the exess of the roots it seems every time i run h2o2 the roots at the ends of the chambers stay white but as i get closer to the drain they darken i have prayed them down with my R.O. water and they clean up nicely i put my finger tip on the end of the evolution and spray them down they whiten right up but that were the root problems start, yes i know canna zyme works but my nutes bounce back and fourth and i dont use cana zyme till the very end but man i got some ideas and adding your guys mister over the top on timmers and also letting the chamber run dry and activating your fine mist over the top mabe two days dwc because the system i got is a true dwc lasser injector but i have noticed on acations were i get your fine fibbers just tord the top of the roots i would like to experiment i realy would im gona have to get with you tricky and see what your working with on those misters mabee first couple of weeks mist and then uses the laser lines for dwc i do this with my nutrients i bounce diffrent root hormones because they react diffrent to each line of hormones and i bounce my zymes also and my microherizens its crazzy but it works im just woundering if i should try fucken with your misting set up??
I think you are already getting pretty good results with your system and you would have to spend a lot of money and invest much time in understanding the differences in this type of growing. Just keep tweaking it, man I never saw such phoenetics in my life brotha... ;) Did you ever get diagnosed with Dyslexia? If not u might have it. Alot of really intelligent people have that disorder, it's just harder on a typed forum to communicate but I always know what you r saying... And to be honest, I really like seeing your ingenuity when it comes to making up your own spelling for words- they always sound out phoenetically perfect. Have a Merry Xmas Thump!!!
 
Hi guys I'm wondering if you put the stop cock valve at 6" high in lower tote and the screen I was reffering to is the metal mesh. The mesh is about 5/16" and then you would lay the bug type screen on top of that like a support but I bet if you just bent it into house like structure so roots would have to go through two screens slowing root ball down ????either way you want to t ry and keep MOST of roots of floor of tote! Ok I think if you had say 4-6 of these you would have accumalitive heat so a portable A/C is required to keep temps as close to 72 degrees so with the distance and the air conditioner it seems like this would work you say there's not enough fog to get to roots when they really start blooming but the 12 disk ultrasonic nebulizer is bigger than the nutramist and the size they put in theirs I believe.??? And with my design you have the three computer fans blowing fog UP most likely on a rheostat type switch eh??? What you think brothers????trichyman your the man though hands down you are the aero king I bet you get like 6" aday with your kickass planter
 
But I thought it would even be worth it to run a 120 GPH pump with a pvc pipe going up to lid on top tote going into a T with some sprinklers/nozzles on it would or could suppliment the FOG!??? I theorize this and I have also solved the problem with relativity its quite simple
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
But I thought it would even be worth it to run a 120 GPH pump with a pvc pipe going up to lid on top tote going into a T with some sprinklers/nozzles on it would or could suppliment the FOG!??? I theorize this and I have also solved the problem with relativity its quite simple
My bad if this doesn't answer your question. The part in bold.

Trichy Bastard said:
ACCUMULATOR TANK: This is a pressure vessel meant to store energy in the form of compressed air with fluid. It holds air which will compress when the fluids are pumped in since water does not really compress in itself. The idea is that the pump pressurizes the accumulator, filling it with the nutes, until the desired psi is achieved by the pump and it shuts off. A solenoid is located down line at the mist nozzles that can open and close, initiating the misting cycles. Most people try to get by using a pump without an accumulator, and it yields poor results. I have wasted alot of time trying to figure out how to exclude the accumulator, but there is no known way to get the proper results without one. HPA is all about control. As discussed earlier, the nozzles wil output various micron mist size under different pressures. There is a ramping up and down of the pump pressure as it starts and stops, during which lower pressures are affecting the nozzle's spray. The mist cycles on HPA are generally fractions of a second to 2 seconds per cycle, the pump spends a portion that much time just getting to pressure, causing undesirable large drops spitting out of the nozzles which will cause wet roots, and undermine the benefits were trying for here in HPA. It's like a shooting competition where you get infractions for every shot outside the bullseye, with an accumulator you have a sniper rifle with a scope, without the accumulator you're shooting with a shotgun. Sure, you hit the bullseye with the shotgun for 10 points, but you also lost 10 points for all the droplets hitting outside the bullseye. Even if the proper 50 micron mists are created during part of the cycle, the larger droplets will land on top of them and wet them all together as if it never happened. A good accumulator will have a bladder that can be initially charged with air that will compress and exert pressure upon the liquid you pump in, and force it out under such pressure when the solenoids open. You'll want to pressurize the bladder with air at 2psi less than the minimum pressure you plan to run in your system. Tanks often come precharged to 40 psi or so, and more air will have to be added before connecting them to the system- using an accurate digital air gauge preferably. If using a pressure cut in switch set to 80psi, then the idea is to set the accumular air charge to 78psi. The interior will be coated with a plastic coating to resist the nutes from rusting it out. Most are only rated for 80-100 psi max- but I've stumbled upon a cheap place that has them rated for 150 psi which is better, even higher levels are great, as long as the pump can match them, but they tend to get more expensive. The larger volume the accumulator can hold, the longer you can go without the pump even coming on. If you size your accumulator correctly, you can go days or a week without the pump even needing to come on. Some people use a large accumulator tank along with a manual hydraulic pump. They only have to hand pump once a week for a few minutes and have the timers/solenoids on 12v battery... Off the grid and reliable no matter what the electric company is doing. A 5 gallon accumulator rated to 150 psi can be had for $60 usd or so- 34 gallon only $220 or so...
 
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