Allowance for lights

Ok so the proplem I see in doing Areo is your space limitations.

Check out the pick that is Eb-Flow up top Areo down below.

I hope I got the size right.

As you can see this frees up alot of head room for your plants up top by putting the resivor (light gray) in half of your lower section. This allso means all you need up top is your tray, the rock wool cubes are only 8 inches tall + 1 inch for drain channels if you get a good tray, and your hood. The dark green represents your waher supply, and the red the fill level drain, not included in pic is the slow drain so the tray emptys back out compleatly between floods.

Eb-Flow is very easy to maintain and setup, and is a long used proven method. If you want some more specifics on this method lust let me know.

Thanks for this 420 and yes you got the size right,

It didn't say in the diy project what size of box to use for the aero unit made but looking at some of the ready made boxes for sale they seem to be around 400mm - 450mm high (16" - 18") not sure what minimum I should allow though really but assuming (until I find out otherwise) that I could get away with a 16" it would be about 7" more than this ebb flow system and whilst 7" is 7" (insert joke here) where you show me putting the res below is where I would hopefully house a mother or 2 so I'm not sure where I would put her/them? What I have got is space in a room up above and I was considering putting a small polysterene ball cock type fitting inside the aerounit (like that which fills a toilet)connected to a tank of water/nutrient mix above that kept the water topped up at the right level at all times with a drain tap on the bottom of the aero unit so I could drain out water for testing and drain the whole out and replace quickly if necessary (dunno if that makes sense, I'm not sure what to use to draw it out and post it)

Any thoughts as usual are most welcome.

OK ya I was stoned and it was 4:00 AM my time when I made that. LOL

Here is a much better revision of it which includes a 1'w x 2'd x 2'h section to keep two Mums in soil, and foot markers.

I also want to point out that this is a full Eb-Flow system top and bottom trays. I checked out those Areo units and, in my opinion, they are just to tall for your application.

Ill stop there and wait for a responce, I'll also see what I can draw up for if you do go Dual Areo 14" for the bottom and 16" up top, assuming also that you will go with All CFL's.

------------- EDIT---------------
OK the Areo room with CFLs Top and Bottom as attached to now.

As you can see the extra foot on Top you would gain by going with CFL's would make the room for the Areo units. I dont know if its just that I know what a 1000W HPS can do or that the verdict is still out on wether or not CFLs are the new way to grow.

Hey New thought how bout Areo with Dual 430W HPS, this would give a more even coverage and make it so you could get around 18" of the light instaid of 24" with the 1000W.

OK their all attached.

420, cheers for taking the time to draw those up for me - I guess it's make my mind up time now, still not all together sure on the cfl/hps thing I'm hoping for some more input on what I have said about using more light if the light gives out less heat, does anybody agree that if the plant is cooler it can use more light, or would everyone be in full agreement that 10,000 lumen is optimum and that's it what ever, only thing I struggle with on this concept is that optimums change around as other input variables do, it all depends on what causes the optimum to be 10,000 if its to do with the heat on the plant calming growing or the cost of the light then if these change this optimum should move but if there are other factors I'm not considering I need to hear about these.

Anyway, if I make the final decision that its worth trying out giving more light with the lower heat cfls along with keeping the cabin at the right temp I may try this as an experiment along with aero, what have I got to lose? if I've got too many cfl bulbs I can take a few out and I'll have spares for later on, if I really decide I have made a mistake not going with HPS I can probably sell the cfl light on ebay and I can go make an ebb flow system instead of the aero units I've made.

Hey 420 what do you use to make those lil plans?

There are alot more than just heat issues or light levels that impact end results. The most important factor is the plant itself, there is no way to speed up nature or one thing that will make your Kush plant better than all the other Kush plants before it. It takes 55-90 days for most plants to grow and with the 7000 to 10000 levels your plants will be able to grow to their full potintial in that time. This dosnt mean they will though because of the rest of the factors like under fertilization, Ph balance, desise, heat, ect.

As well their is 1 pic there with 2 430W HPS up top with the Areo setup.

As for the plans I used Microsoft VISIO to get the room size boxes, and Adobe PHOTOSHOP CE to put everything else in.

-=4:20=-Guy said:

Theres some really good advice in those paragraphs there Kuddos.

Any how heres the bulbs I'd recomend if you go floresent, 105W Medium Screw (house lamp style) two to four of these will veg depending on how much power you want to use. You could also just get a smaller MH, there are a few choices compleat "Enclosed Ballast" setup or just a ballast hood/connectors and bulb (that is a 12 pack; why they did it that way I dont know?).

So anyways that hood would be good on top to; it takes a 6 inch / 152.4 mm duct =( but will at least help with heat and they have glass (good to have). If you are going to be displacing your air reguarly you could probably get away with just venting, at least the 250W, back into the veg chamber. But just changing to 150m ducting, at least up top, would be ideal.

Well I'm off to bed for now more to come.

Click to expand...

Hey thanks a lot for that site link... I was about to buy a HPS light for like 500 dollars... Here this is like 16.00 for the 400W bulb and 53 for the 400W ballast... Every nice find man thanks a lot for the info lol

I have a question though I just came across... the 400W MH's there's several type the standard Operation, Reduced Envelope, Postion-oriented and Conversion bulbs... Which would best suit Veg stage? thanks for the help in advance

Glad to here your lookin into getting a HPS. If you plan on useing it for Veg and Bud I suggest this one. It costs more cause its an enhanced spectrum and will both Veg and Bud. Also some type of hood is recomended or 2/3 of your light will go... well not to the plants, and most of them come with the socket and cord you will need.

O as for if you get two seperate bulbs (recomended) MH and HPS there you go. With that MH you wont need two balasts, its a conversion and runs off a HPS ballast, but it will waste a little energy.

Thanks for the input 420

Babygro can I ask why you didn't reply to my last questions, I mean you haven't got to, but is it a case of I am not allowed to question what you have told me what you said is gospel and that is that? I hope not because that isn't what learning is all about, learning is about discussing ideas etc. to gain a better understanding.

Chronic productions your input always seems worthwhile I must admit, really comical, I knew some people like you when I was about 12.

Anyway time to fly this coup I think.

Babaygro, 420 thanks for your useful input, it has been much appreciated, bye bye and happy growing!

Ern