Ambes first indoor grow Girlscout cookie & 6 tester Auto hybrids NLxBB in a 5x5x84

grow4fun420

Active Member
DAMN & WOW!!! That's all I got to say, lol! Those NLxBB turned out amazing. Great job with the grow ambedexteras! Anxious to hear what you get off of all those autos, oh yea, and the smoke report :bigjoint: Do what you do bro, PEACE :leaf:
 

ambedexteras

Well-Known Member
thx grow for fun. im thinking about an oz each plant. roughly. cuz i pulled the main nugget and im pretty sure its dry weight will be like 3.5-4 grams
so that gives me a rough estimate lol. but ya man they turned out awesome.

And ur BD looks just like mine bro. and i just checked i flipped 9/21 so mine are 32 days or 4.5 ish weeks into flower. so frosty man
ill get a pic up within next couple days
 

ambedexteras

Well-Known Member
Hey hey, pretty souped. although ive already harvested 5 outdoor plants this season,
the 2 indoor i harvested yesterday marks my first "genetic plant harvest"
my NLx BB which was ready and beautiful and i knew i was gonna harvest
and then a GSC which i didnt know i was gonna harvest until i saw it yesterday and it had a cotton
looking Mildew on it, which it had very little of before but seemed to spread alot so i figured harvest
since it was only about a week away. im thinking by the look of it dry weight of the 2 plants combined
will be about 2.5-3 ozs. there also only about 24 inches tall lol the one with less budsites is the GSC

keep it green peeps
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
Bro..... I can't come look at them till it's cleaned up. there's Nothing I can do to help you out this time because it's WAY to risky to me personally. I have too much to lose. know what I mean?
[h=1]Botrytis Or Gray Mold[/h]
Gary W. Moorman, Professor of Plant Pathology
The plant pathogenic fungus Botrytis is found virtually everywhere plants are grown. It is fast growing, can grow on many different sources of nutrients, survives well in the greenhouse, and can attack many different types of plants. The disease caused by Botrytis is commonly called Botrytis blight or gray mold.
The fungus:
Botrytis at first appears as a white growth on the plant but very soon darkens to a gray color. Smoky-gray "dusty" spores form and are spread by the wind or in water. In greenhouses, any activity will result in a release of spores. Even automated trickle irrigation systems, when turned on, trigger a release of spores. These spores are often found on the outside of seeds. The spores can remain dormant on plant surfaces as long as the life of the plant in some cases. Botrytis forms two types of resting structures on or in infected plant tissue: 1) very dark brown or black multi-celled structures called sclerotia and 2) single-celled, thick, dark walled chlamydospores.
Infection:
Botrytis must have nutrients or some food source before it invades the plant. Nutrients leaking from wounded plant parts or from dying tissue such as old flower petals provide the required nutrients. From this food base, the fungus becomes more aggressive and invades healthy tissue. A dark to light brown rot forms in the diseased tissue. High humidity conditions favor the growth of this fungus.
[h=3]Sites Of First Infection[/h]
  • Wounded tissue such as large stubs left after taking cuttings.
  • Fading flowers.
  • Leaves on which fading infected flowers have fallen.
  • Broken stems or injured leaves.
  • Leaves damaged by over-fertilization, spray damage, or mechanical injury.
  • Seedlings grown under cool, moist conditions.
  • Cuttings taken from plants with heavy infestations of Botrytis.
[h=3]Management[/h]
  • Sanitation is the first important step. Remove dead or dying tissue from the plants and from the soil surface. Remove this refuse from the greenhouse. Do not throw debris under benches or on walks. Sanitation alone is not sufficient to control this fungus. The fungus can produce 60,000 or more spores on a piece of plant tissue the size of your small finger nail. Even one spore can infect a plant and cause disease.
  • Avoid injuring plants in any way. Do not leave large stubs of tissue on stock plants when taking cuttings.
  • Heat and ventilate greenhouses to prevent high humidity conditions . This may only require extra venting early in the day when moisture has condensed and before sunlight has warmed the air. Even lowering the humidity slightly can have a significant effect on Botrytis. Outdoor planting should be planned to provide good air circulation patterns. This is the most important means of inhibiting Botrytis activity.
  • Added protection is available for many crops by applying a fungicide or biological control agent. Note that some Botrytis populations are resistant to certain chemicals. This becomes a problem when those fungicides are used exclusively over a long period of time. Therefore, do not rely entirely on one chemical or a group of chemicals that act similarly. It has been found that it is best to mix chemicals (if mixing is allowable as stated on the label) that act differently. See the chart below. Each can be used at half the label rate. It has been found that reduced rate mixtures of 2 or more chemicals provides as good protection as full rate mixtures and, in some cases, may be less phytotoxic.
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
Salvaging Botrytis bud rot material.

[HR][/HR] Botrytis may produce the highly sought after Noble Rot that the wine makers hold dear, but it sucks when it comes to cannabis.

The question of what can you do with bud rotted material continues to come up and this year we were blessed with some mild bud rot on an outdoor plant, so we decided to see what could be done with the buds besides throwing them away.

Emboldened that while it tastes and smells badly, it is non toxic enough for the vintners to use grapes riddled with it, we decided to remove all the spores and fungus material, to see if that would eliminate the odor and taste, as well as the issues associated with smoking fungus.

We first dried the material at 200F until frangible and then passed it through a wire strainer to remove the stems and finely divide the material without pulverizing it. We then used butane to extract the cannabis oil, which still smelled and tasted of Botrytis.

Next we filtered some Everclear, by passing it through both a .45 and a .2 micron syringe filter and then dissolved the cannabis oil containing the Botrytis spores into it.

We then filtered the alcohol with the cannabis oil and Botrytis spores in it through a .45 micron syringe filter, which removed all of the spores, the smallest of which is 7 micron. It also takes out all bacteria, but sadly doesn’t catch the submicron virus.

After allowing the alcohol to flash off through evaporation, the cannabis oil was actually slightly denser than the parent material, and was Botrytis odor and taste free. It tested at about normal potency, so the process appears to works.
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
I really hope you can get that all cleaned up and it doesn't come back.

If you need anything else bro, just let me know. I'll be on for a little bit longer. I need to get some sleep though. That fuckin car was a pain in the ass to get fixed.

BTW yes it's fixed and running now.
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
Just google "White Cotton on cannabis" or "White fuzz on cannabis"

that's all I've been doing. lol
 

ambedexteras

Well-Known Member
hey guys. about to start another indoor grow. this grow didnt turn out so great. not enough air circulation and the mold killed the bud....Live and Learn.
could only use for hash. which was cool, i made a nice half oz of bubble. but not the same. i had a Dank frosty Blue dream clone from my buddy and im
sad to have lost that pheno. but hes got more so well see. got a very nice Array of strains for my next grow so come check it out.

Keep it green.
 
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