Any help appreciated

Sinstyle702

New Member
I adressed your little bit of water, watering technique up there, only when they need it next and better make damn sure they do need to be watered and not watering too frequently, soak that shit with 1/4strength Canna nutes with good good runoff, then leave them alone for several days.
Umbrella effect could be in play. Its where the rootball is dry and the medium around it is dry. Pour the water in and it bypasses the root mass in the middle entirely. Over the top and down the sides. Ive known about this for years but Dr who put a name to it for me in another post I read.
I really want to thank you guys for taking the time to look at my pics and help out, it means a lot
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
The water after nutrients is 6.9 runoff is anywhere between 6.5 and 6.7 depending on what plant I am checking. That's what I read about the coco so I figured that was the problem but it didn't seem to help. None of the other plants are having color changes on the leaves just this one. But they all seem to be experiencing drooping leaves
thats too high for coco, i've run it for two years now and 6.1 has worked really well for me. i let it drift a little, drop down to 5.8, go up to 6 .2, but never higher than that
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Same here, when I ran coco a bunch of times trying to figure out in the beginning days deficiencies and what's goin on and all kinds of wierd issues, I settled at pH 6.1 was the sweet spot and then everything went well after that. I competely agree with everything you said, 6.1 works best.
 

Sinstyle702

New Member
thats too high for coco, i've run it for two years now and 6.1 has worked really well for me. i let it drift a little, drop down to 5.8, go up to 6 .2, but never higher than that
I'm thinking that might have something to do with it also. I might have done to much reading and got confused lol I didn't check ph for a while (I read a couple places that ph doesn't matter in soil or coco) so I thought the coco would buff it to its own ph but common sense says what goes in will probably change it lol I'm thinking I was way off there
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Soil and Coco you only dont have to worry about pH if certain extra ingredients were added in the beginning or it's an organic soil/coco mix with microbial life and things like compost added etc.

Straight coco you must water with consistant proper pH. 6.1 works well.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
you very well might have dry pockets, coco will do that if you don't wet it down good regularly. i'd suggest waiting till they're very dry, then set your pots in a bucket of water for a couple of minutes each, then set them up on something so they get a chance to drain real well. if you have any dry pockets in your pots, that'll wet em down and get rid of them.
coco is a strange medium, but very easy to work with once you get used to it. when your coco is fresh, it will absorb calcium and magnesium, so you have to add extra. Once your meet its deficit, all the sudden you don't have to supplement it anymore, you have plenty. That usually happens around the second or third week of flower, so about two weeks into flower, cut back on the cal-mag by about 75%. but, right now, you have to add a good bit.
 

Sinstyle702

New Member
Soil and Coco you only dont have to worry about pH if certain extra ingredients were added in the beginning or it's an organic soil/coco mix with microbial life and things like compost added etc.

Straight coco you must water with consistant proper pH. 6.1 works well.
Ok got it that's probably where the yellowing and spots are coming from in that plant then right?
 

Sinstyle702

New Member
you very well might have dry pockets, coco will do that if you don't wet it down good regularly. i'd suggest waiting till they're very dry, then set your pots in a bucket of water for a couple of minutes each, then set them up on something so they get a chance to drain real well. if you have any dry pockets in your pots, that'll wet em down and get rid of them.
coco is a strange medium, but very easy to work with once you get used to it. when your coco is fresh, it will absorb calcium and magnesium, so you have to add extra. Once your meet its deficit, all the sudden you don't have to supplement it anymore, you have plenty. That usually happens around the second or third week of flower, so about two weeks into flower, cut back on the cal-mag by about 75%. but, right now, you have to add a good bit.
That's good to know, that's how you get rid of dry pockets. I didn't know calmag builds up then you don't need it any more thanks for the info
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
probably a contributing factor. ph imbalance causes lockouts of certain nutrients. magnesium requires a ph of at least 6.0 to be absorbed, but that starts to lockout iron. thats why i say let it bounce once in a while, stay around 6.1, but a couple of times a month water at 5.8, then go back to 6.1...it won't hurt to go up to 6.2 or 3 once in a while, but center on 6.1
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
That's good to know, that's how you get rid of dry pockets. I didn't know calmag builds up then you don't need it any more thanks for the info
To clarify for you...

Coco at a microscopic level has empty spaces in it that the first time you use it wants to 'steal' and suck into those empty spaces and fill its matrix with certain elements. So when you first water with nutrient solution, certain elements dont go to your plants, the coco 'steals' it and fills those gaps. So you have to condition the coco the first time when you use, fill those gaps properly, then all future nutrient feeds wil actually go to the plant. (Read about Coco preperation for first time use.) I hope this helps you understand a little more.

(OUCH just tried getting up from my chair and SMASHED my big toe in corner of table.. AAAAAAHHHHHHHH)
 

Sinstyle702

New Member
probably a contributing factor. ph imbalance causes lockouts of certain nutrients. magnesium requires a ph of at least 6.0 to be absorbed, but that starts to lockout iron. thats why i say let it bounce once in a while, stay around 6.1, but a couple of times a month water at 5.8, then go back to 6.1...it won't hurt to go up to 6.2 or 3 once in a while, but center on 6.1
Ok I got it that makes perfect sense thanks
 

Sinstyle702

New Member
To clarify for you...

Coco at a microscopic level has empty spaces in it that the first time you use it wants to 'steal' and suck into those empty spaces and fill its matrix with certain elements. So when you first water with nutrient solution, certain elements dont go to your plants, the coco 'steals' it and fills those gaps. So you have to condition the coco the first time when you use, fill those gaps properly, then all future nutrient feeds wil actually go to the plant. (Read about Coco preperation for first time use.) I hope this helps you understand a little more.

(OUCH just tried getting up from my chair and SMASHED my big toe in corner of table.. AAAAAAHHHHHHHH)
Wow ok I need to look that up thank you
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
I'm not exactly sold on the ph down or up for that matter..I need to get something organic to use to bring ph in range. When checking I should only need to ph the water going in and keep that in range right? That's how I'm understanding it growing in coco, if I have this wrong please let me know. When adjusting ph I would add all nutrients first then check after and bring into acceptable range right?
Correct.
Not sure on your doubts about PH down. But the key is to only add a small amount of down (usually)and get it right so your not using down then up then down. That would increase the the ec too much since PH up is potassium hydroxide and ph down is phosphoric acid.
 
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