Auto flower Flowering in 4th week from seedling, Is it Possible?

Hi everyone, I'm a new indoor grower.
Light: LED 300W Viparspectra with 60cm above. 20-4 schedule
Soil: ALL MIX BIOBiZZ mixed with Bat Guano 2-10-2.
Strains: Autoflower, Crystal Meth and Kritical Bilbo


They are in week 4 from seedling, it seems that Crystal Meth started to flowering. is it possible? what do you recommend to do? Any advise or tips would be appreciated. Waiting for your kind replies.
Cheers!

Yes, auto's start flowering around the 4th week give or take a week depending on the strain. Your 300 light is a bit weak though. Should have gone with a "600" with those cheap lights. You are probably going to get flamed for mentioning viparspectra here. There is a lot of hatred for them in these forums, even though they do grow weed just fine, you should have just chosen a higher powered one. I see a lot of signs of nutrient burn in those pictures also.

Kerovan said:

Yes, auto's start flowering around the 4th week give or take a week depending on the strain. Your 300 light is a bit weak though. Should have gone with a "600" with those cheap lights. You are probably going to get flamed for mentioning viparspectra here. There is a lot of hatred for them in these forums, even though they do grow weed just fine, you should have just chosen a higher powered one. I see a lot of signs of nutrient burn in those pictures also.

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Thanks for the comments, but she is too small , does she grow up anymore?
yeah you are right, 300 light is weak, my plan is to add 400 w HPS to them when they get bigger and go to flowering stage, I'm really confused now, about feeding, light schedule .... should I act to her like she is in flowering stage or what?
Yeah she has lots of nutrient burn, however was unexpected since the other one with the exact condition and feeding doesn't have any problem neither with nutrient burn nor early flowering. anyway I stopped giving her nutrient since I saw the burn signs.
I appreciate your help

Rafcity said:

Thanks for the comments, but she is too small , does she grow up anymore?
yeah you are right, 300 light is weak, my plan is to add 400 w HPS to them when they get bigger and go to flowering stage, I'm really confused now, about feeding, light schedule .... should I act to her like she is in flowering stage or what?
Yeah she has lots of nutrient burn, however was unexpected since the other one with the exact condition and feeding doesn't have any problem neither with nutrient burn nor early flowering. anyway I stopped giving her nutrient since I saw the burn signs.
I appreciate your help

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You have autos. So yes, they are in flowering stage. You can keep your lights on 20/4 all the time. Autos don't flower by dark/light period, they flower by age. When they hit ~4 weeks old they go into flowering mode. And yes, they stay small. If you are careful and skilled you can get them pretty big in those 4 weeks though, but nothing like photoperiod plants. Autos don't seem to stretch as much as photos either when they go into flowering stage. Different strains of autos will also grow a little bigger or smaller. What you have is what you get though, nothing you can do about it except try to take the best care of them you can at this stage.

A 400W hps will do good along with that 300.

Next time you grow if you want bigger plants go with photo-period plants, not autos. Then you can let them get to whatever size you want before flowering. Photo-period plants flower when you set their light schedule to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark each day and not before. I think maybe you didn't know what you where getting when you got autos and didn't realize they flower small and fast by their age regardless of light schedule.

Kerovan said:

You have autos. So yes, they are in flowering stage. You can keep your lights on 20/4 all the time. Autos don't flower by dark/light period, they flower by age. When they hit ~4 weeks old they go into flowering mode. And yes, they stay small. If you are careful and skilled you can get them pretty big in those 4 weeks though, but nothing like photoperiod plants. Autos don't seem to stretch as much as photos either when they go into flowering stage. Different strains of autos will also grow a little bigger or smaller. What you have is what you get though, nothing you can do about it except try to take the best care of them you can at this stage.

A 400W hps will do good along with that 300.

Next time you grow if you want bigger plants go with photo-period plants, not autos. Then you can let them get to whatever size you want before flowering. Photo-period plants flower when you set their light schedule to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark each day and not before. I think maybe you didn't know what you where getting when you got autos and didn't realize they flower small and fast by their age regardless of light schedule.

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Thanks for the explanation. I knew everything about Autos and Photos except that the autos could go to flower in week 4. however I saw lots of videos and .... of Autos with bigger plants and yields and never seen sth like mine!!! anyway would be the last time I grow Autos. such a waste of time and money.

Yours is very small and sick for 4 weeks, that is one reason why you have seen bigger ones. It's all about proper care, they say autos are more sensitive than photos, and some strains are even more sensitive. I have some autos that at 4 weeks are about 14 inches tall and have a dozen branches with some of the branches the size of your whole plant.

Kerovan said:

Yours is very small and sick for 4 weeks, that is one reason why you have seen bigger ones. It's all about proper care, they say autos are more sensitive than photos, and some strains are even more sensitive. I have some autos that at 4 weeks are about 14 inches tall and have a dozen branches with some of the branches the size of your whole plant.

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wow, would you please give me some tips since I have 2 new autos in day 10th.

Rafcity said:

wow, would you please give me some tips since I have 2 new autos in day 10th.

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First thing we need to do is figure out what went wrong with this grow.

What kind of fertilizers were you using? How much and how often?

Were you checking the ph of your water and also the nutrient solutions? A lot of fertilizers can drastically drop your ph, some can raise it.

Unfortunately I don't know anything about your soil. I use Fox Farms Ocean Forest for all of my grows.

Kerovan said:

First thing we need to do is figure out what went wrong with this grow.

What kind of fertilizers were you using? How much and how often?

Were you checking the ph of your water and also the nutrient solutions? A lot of fertilizers can drastically drop your ph, some can raise it.

Unfortunately I don't know anything about your soil. I use Fox Farms Ocean Forest for all of my grows.

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Fertilizer : Hesi Bloom Complex started from week 3. 5ml/Lt mixed with water. every 2-3 days with watering
and also Root it for the first 4 weeks 4ml/Lt . besides 15 gram Bat Guano 2-10-2 mixed with the 4 gallon ALL MIX BIOBiZZ (It consists of 20% sphagnum peat moss, 35% garden peat, 10% high quality organic Worm-Humus , 30% perlite and 5% Pre-Mix) at initial state.

I check the PH with a chip device bought from amazon and not sure if it's correct or not. (pic attached)

Right now the problem is my new plant which seems to have a problem. do you have any idea whats wrong with it? (pic attached)

First off we will start with the ph. That is a soil ph meter, you need a liquid ph meter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074M8F9RG

You want to make sure your water and nutrient solutions are in the correct ph range before watering/feeding. 6.3-6.7 or so for soil. Some fertilizers drastically
lower the ph and some raise it. You will need some ph up and ph down to adjust it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY

And you don't want to give them fertilizer every time. Alternate food then plain water the next time they are dry. And don't give too much food to autos, they can
be sensitive to fertilizers, some strains more than others which is why one of yours looks more burnt from the food than the other. It's much easier to correct underfeeding than it is
to correct nutrient burn from too much feeding. Err on the side of caution always and feed light. You can always up the food if they need more.

As for your hesi bloom, it doesn't have enough nitrogen for vegging and not enough phosphorous and potassium for flowering. It might be good during the early flowering stage, but it doesn't look all that great to me. And the Root T, I don't know if that does any good or harm or not. It probably won't hurt though, but I am not certain. I would say skip it.

I use these nutrients in my grows. https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-Liquid-Nutrient-Formula/dp/B00D93NIFY

Grow Big and Big Bloom starting at week 2, then after they have been flowering for about 3 weeks I usually drop the Grow Big. I start adding Tiger Bloom after the
first week of flowering, keeping the Big Bloom going the whole time.

You will also need some calcium/magnesium supplements like one of the following:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-GH1772-CALiMAGic-Quart/dp/B00GZRKI40

https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-CAL-MAG-PLUS-Gallon/dp/B000J2CUQ6

If you are using RO water or have extremely soft water you will need to use the calmag every time you water, if using tap water that is hard you don't need it every time usually.

Kerovan said:

First off we will start with the ph. That is a soil ph meter, you need a liquid ph meter like this:



You want to make sure your water and nutrient solutions are in the correct ph range before watering/feeding. 6.3-6.7 or so for soil. Some fertilizers drastically
lower the ph and some raise it. You will need some ph up and ph down to adjust it.

And you don't want to give them fertilizer every time. Alternate food then plain water the next time they are dry. And don't give too much food to autos, they can
be sensitive to fertilizers, some strains more than others which is why one of yours looks more burnt from the food than the other. It's much easier to correct underfeeding than it is
to correct nutrient burn from too much feeding. Err on the side of caution always and feed light. You can always up the food if they need more.

As for your hesi bloom, it doesn't have enough nitrogen for vegging and not enough phosphorous and potassium for flowering. It might be good during the early flowering stage, but it doesn't look all that great to me. And the Root T, I don't know if that does any good or harm or not. It probably won't hurt though, but I am not certain. I would say skip it.



Grow Big and Big Bloom starting at week 2, then after they have been flowering for about 3 weeks I usually drop the Grow Big. I start adding Tiger Bloom after the
first week of flowering, keeping the Big Bloom going the whole time.


If you are using RO water or have extremely soft water you will need to use the calmag every time you water, if using tap water that is hard you don't need it every time usually.

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Thanks for the Info, learned a lot.

With this ph meter it it possible to find out the ph of the soil also?

about the nutrients I must say that you are right, but I missed sth, this Hesi Bloom is just for early flowering stage and I use Hesi TNT for Veg stage, and Hesi Phosphorus Plus for flowering. didn't buy them, just a gift from a friend.

Any Idea about the new plant (photo in previous post)? leaves don't look normal

Rafcity said:

Thanks for the Info, learned a lot.

With this ph meter it it possible to find out the ph of the soil also?

about the nutrients I must say that you are right, but I missed sth, this Hesi Bloom is just for early flowering stage and I use Hesi TNT for Veg stage, and Hesi Phosphorus Plus for flowering. didn't buy them, just a gift from a friend.

Any Idea about the new plant (photo in previous post)? leaves don't look normal

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No, the ph meter I linked is strictly to check the liquid. If you want to check the soil you will still need the one you have. If your nutrients and water are going in at the the correct ph I wouldn't worry a whole lot about the soil, even though you can check it once in a while if you want.

As for your new plant, it's hard to tell anything when it's that small. Also the quality of the lighting in the pic can affect what it looks like skewing our judgement of the picture.

Kerovan said:

No, the ph meter I linked is strictly to check the liquid. If you want to check the soil you will still need the one you have. If your nutrients and water are going in at the the correct ph I wouldn't worry a whole lot about the soil, even though you can check it once in a while if you want.

As for your new plant, it's hard to tell anything when it's that small. Also the quality of the lighting in the pic can affect what it looks like skewing our judgement of the picture.

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Found out I have spider mites Any cheap solution?

Well, here is an update of the girls, day 37. Both started flowering last week. didn't get tall much, but kind of bushy. Today the TDS and PH meter that ordered arrived and found out i was watering them with ph 5.3 recently just bcz my previous ph meter was a cheap one and wrong. now feeding only 3gr Bat Guano/plant every 3 days of watering. any comment or advise would be appreciated.

Any one knows what is the reason of the strange leaves forms?

Hi everyone. How ever it seems no one comments or cares about the updates, but I don't mind hahaha.
Here we go with update day 46. I took the photos when they were sleeping.

like always, any comment or advise would be appreciated.

Rafcity said:

Any one knows what is the reason of the strange leaves forms?

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any Help? please tell me sth bcz its happening to my new plant also

About early flowering: i had similar problems with my fruit punch auto, they flowered real small. Did some research and its been suggested to me that part of the answer has to do with nutrients. If the plant starts receiving flowering nutrients (like bat guano already in the pot) they flower early. I was recommended to use veg nutes as long as i can and then go for flowering nutes. When you stick them in a soil full of balanced npk their lifecycle (and size and yield) is much less than stated by breeder. I think with autos coco or hydro is better suited

Rocket Soul said:

About early flowering: i had similar problems with my fruit punch auto, they flowered real small. Did some research and its been suggested to me that part of the answer has to do with nutrients. If the plant starts receiving flowering nutrients (like bat guano already in the pot) they flower early. I was recommended to use veg nutes as long as i can and then go for flowering nutes. When you stick them in a soil full of balanced npk their lifecycle (and size and yield) is much less than stated by breeder. I think with autos coco or hydro is better suited

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Thanks for the points, any idea about leaves shape in last post?

First of all im not an expert and yeah i f-ed up my autos aswell so dont make your decisions only based on my opinion.

Generally people fuck their plants up by bad enviroment (temp, humidity, airmovement) overfeeding and overwatering. Some of your plants are showing tipburn: the tip of the leaf wilting. Some leaves are clawing, the tip being bent downward: possible nitrogen toxicity. Do you measure EC of your feedwater? Try checking the EC/tds of the water that drains out of your pot when you water. If its considerably higher than what your putting in, youre overfeeding your plants. In that case flush it with RO water.
Also with a plant that small and a pot that big its likely you overwater if your watering every 2-3 days. Lift the pot after watering to get a feel for the weight it has. Before watering the next time lift your pot, it should be a lot lighter to be ready to be watered.
Happy growing