Auto northern lights. First time with autos

Hey everyone. Right now I'm on day 57 from seed northern lights auto from crop king. So far everything has been pretty great.

I'm using 5 gallon buckets with FFOF mixed with 20-30% perlite and some dolomite lyme . GH flora series nutrients. I didn't use anything till about week 5. Experienced some slight deficiency MG and calcium. Since then everything seems back on track. Veg under 400 watt mh and now using HPS. Day temp around 75 night temp 65. PH has been on point

All plants are at least 2 feet tall. Here's some photos of my biggest lady with the most bud sites. I used some LST with sewing thread and pulled down branches to expose more light. Let me know your thoughts!!

Thats a beauty plant, damn big for an auto!

Morriston55 said:

Thats a beauty plant, damn big for an auto!

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And she's my smallest baby! I'll be posting more soon

We basically did the same thing lol soil, perlite, lime, container size, nutrients and even deficiencies but your grow shits on mine! Looks great man I'm sure you'll enjoy the fruits of your labor !!

Good job............heres a little autopounder, @ day 55, it copped LST , early in life
Your doing great

Poon

Thanks everyone! This is my second grow. My first one was from clones given to me. They were infested with mites from day 1 and I battled deficiencies throughout. I still pulled around 7 ounces off 4 plants. These autos are bigger, stronger, and way more bud sites so I hope for a great harvest

Some regular light photos

Great work!

Only tip I got is watch out when tying plants with thread. It can cut into and hinder growth when tight. Even damage the branch.

I use soft tie. The flexible rubber coated stuff. But it is not necessary in my opinion to tie out the branches. The weight of the growing buds will do it anyway. And the plant does not process the light at the bud sites primarily anyway. That's what the leaves are for.

To prove it just leave one alone one time.

MichiganMedGrower said:

Great work!

Only tip I got is watch out when tying plants with thread. It can cut into and hinder growth when tight. Even damage the branch.

I use soft tie. The flexible rubber coated stuff. But it is not necessary in my opinion to tie out the branches. The weight of the growing buds will do it anyway. And the plant does not process the light at the bud sites primarily anyway. That's what the leaves are for.

To prove it just leave one alone one time.

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Thanks for the tips. Now with this being an auto I couldn't exactly pin point when flower actual started. I want to guess around week 3. Would you know a ball park on time to finish? Obviously i go by trichomes but trying to get an idea when to stop my feeding schedule and start a flush

NewGrow15 said:

Thanks for the tips. Now with this being an auto I couldn't exactly pin point when flower actual started. I want to guess around week 3. Would you know a ball park on time to finish? Obviously i go by trichomes but trying to get an idea when to stop my feeding schedule and start a flush

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I don't flush at the end I taper feed. Leaching pots is only needed for salt buildup.

You will see the preflowers when the plant starts to mature. Dutch Passion Seeds has some stop motion clips of heir auto Mazar growing. Pretty cool to see the whole life of the plant real fast.

And you will know when they are finishing when they stop putting out white pistils from the buds and they start to go dark and recede.

I suggest you read a standard pot growing guide book like Jorje Cervantes or Ed Rosenthal for a good background of information.

Good luck with your grow.

So here's an update. Day 64. Things are decent. Noticed some yellowing and lightening of leaves. Thinking I'm lacking nitrogen. This photo is before I fed her. She received some flora micro and flora bloom at half strength. I'm wondering if she's hungrier.

I've been feeding every other water. Occasionally adding some blackstrap molasses. So can anyone tell me is this normal yellowing or premature?

NewGrow15 said:

View attachment 3862300 View attachment 3862304 View attachment 3862302 View attachment 3862303 Hey everyone. Right now I'm on day 57 from seed northern lights auto from crop king. So far everything has been pretty great.

I'm using 5 gallon buckets with FFOF mixed with 20-30% perlite and some dolomite lyme . GH flora series nutrients. I didn't use anything till about week 5. Experienced some slight deficiency MG and calcium. Since then everything seems back on track. Veg under 400 watt mh and now using HPS. Day temp around 75 night temp 65. PH has been on point

All plants are at least 2 feet tall. Here's some photos of my biggest lady with the most bud sites. I used some LST with sewing thread and pulled down branches to expose more light. Let me know your thoughts!!

Click to expand...

Looks strong and healthy

If you are following the directions for the nutes you are likely adding too much PK and not enough nitrogen.

I only use a grow nute in ocean forest. No need for bloom nutes in a pottin soil.

I would leach the pot with clear water and then water in a lower dose of the grow formula than you have been giving.

This sort of "re-sets" the medium.

You won't see much leaf recovery but the yellow and splotching should stop.

It is a phosphorous and potassium deficiency but caused by imbalanced nutes I think.

MichiganMedGrower said:

If you are following the directions for the nutes you are likely adding too much PK and not enough nitrogen.

I only use a grow nute in ocean forest. No need for bloom nutes in a pottin soil.

I would leach the pot with clear water and then water in a lower dose of the grow formula than you have been giving.

This sort of "re-sets" the medium.

You won't see much leaf recovery but the yellow and splotching should stop.

It is a phosphorous and potassium deficiency but caused by imbalanced nutes I think.

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So no bloom when using ocean forest? Hmm. See this is my biggest confusion. Nutrients. I started at 1/4 the dosage per gallon then went up to 1/2. Didn't know I shouldn't have added bloom

NewGrow15 said:

So no bloom when using ocean forest? Hmm. See this is my biggest confusion. Nutrients. I started at 1/4 the dosage per gallon then went up to 1/2. Didn't know I shouldn't have added bloom

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It can be used. But it is good to feed the grow formula for a few weeks into flowering to build up the nitrogen stored in the plant.

The best grow info I have found (not marijuana) is the education section on the Premier Horticulture Website (pro Mix).

The guides for pot growing seem to mix hydro and potting soil growing stuff.

I only add pure blend pro grow to ocean forest and not til a few weeks after the transplant up to the final pot I use for flowering.

Your plants look ok and are growing fine. Just lightly flush out some of the salts like I said and add back about a third strength dose of the grow ratio. And wait and watch for improvement.

It's a learning process. Don't sweat it. We all went through it. But read about gardening and greenhouse plant growing for better info.

The forum makes it confusing unless you have a background of knowledge to know if people's answers are correct.

There is a video of the president of Dyna Gro saying he only made the bloom bottle for customer demand. He recommends foliage pro(a grow nute) all the way through for peat/ perlite type mixes or soil.

You can get great results using only Jacks 20-20-20 standard fertilizer.

And always wait for the pots to feel dry and light before watering and water to a good 20% runoff to remove salts if you are adding fertilizer.

And I taper my feed strength down at the end while they ripen as they don't need much nutes as they finish.

Also realize you are feeding the soil not the plant. The nutes are like vitamins. They just need to be available in balance when the plant needs them. So really you are just replacing them for future use when you get the amounts right.

They actually use sunlight for energy instead of food. The nutrients are like building blocks.

It's a learning curve but you have to be able to read what the plants are telling you. That is the goal.

MichiganMedGrower said:

It can be used. But it is good to feed the grow formula for a few weeks into flowering to build up the nitrogen stored in the plant.

The best grow info I have found (not marijuana) is the education section on the Premier Horticulture Website (pro Mix).

The guides for pot growing seem to mix hydro and potting soil growing stuff.

I only add pure blend pro grow to ocean forest and not til a few weeks after the transplant up to the final pot I use for flowering.

Your plants look ok and are growing fine. Just lightly flush out some of the salts like I said and add back about a third strength dose of the grow ratio. And wait and watch for improvement.

It's a learning process. Don't sweat it. We all went through it. But read about gardening and greenhouse plant growing for better info.

The forum makes it confusing unless you have a background of knowledge to know if people's answers are correct.

There is a video of the president of Dyna Gro saying he only made the bloom bottle for customer demand. He recommends foliage pro(a grow nute) all the way through for peat/ perlite type mixes or soil.

You can get great results using only Jacks 20-20-20 standard fertilizer.

And always wait for the pots to feel dry and light before watering and water to a good 20% runoff to remove salts if you are adding fertilizer.

And I taper my feed strength down at the end while they ripen as they don't need much nutes as they finish.

Also realize you are feeding the soil not the plant. The nutes are like vitamins. They just need to be available in balance when the plant needs them. So really you are just replacing them for future use when you get the amounts right.

They actually use sunlight for energy instead of food. The nutrients are like building blocks.

It's a learning curve but you have to be able to read what the plants are telling you. That is the goal.

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Thanks for the input. Very helpful. I did continue grow nutrients in the beginning of flower because my first grow did have yellowing issues. Way worse and earlier than these. I was thinking I still didn't give it enough nitrogen during the stretch.

I started bloom nutrients when I thought the stretch was over a few weeks ago.

NewGrow15 said:

Thanks for the input. Very helpful. I did continue grow nutrients in the beginning of flower because my first grow did have yellowing issues. Way worse and earlier than these. I was thinking I still didn't give it enough nitrogen during the stretch.

I started bloom nutrients when I thought the stretch was over a few weeks ago.

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It's ok. Common misconception from marketing and forums. High pk feeds promote early yellowing and leaf loss. It is the problem many times in these help threads.

The other thing I see constantly is over watering.

You are doing great! You got nice growing buds. Just keep practicing. I get 3x the yield from the same seeds as when I started 3 years ago.

And probably double the original potency. Keep doing what you are and it keeps getting better.

Here is a plant that I grew from seed 2 years ago. Same pots, same nutes ( well I dropped the bloom) same lights. Although more of them.

The free seed I grew then turned out as a tiny 1 ounce little Charlie Brown Christmas tree.

The one I am almost finished growing now looks like this



Here is a garden pic


I had every question and concern you do.

Keep learnin'

Hey guys been busy working but bud development is going well. I flushed 3 out of the 4 plants and they seem to be doing well. This is my worst looking plant(I did not flush). Buds are getting big though

NewGrow15 said:

Hey guys been busy working but bud development is going well. I flushed 3 out of the 4 plants and they seem to be doing well. This is my worst looking plant(I did not flush). Buds are getting big though View attachment 3872154

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Sweet. Looks like frosty buds.

The yellowing and burning is from the too much pk and not enough nitrogen.

You can just taper the complete grow nute down towards the end of the grow and they will stay more green and you get bigger better buds.

That's how I have learned to do it anyway.

MichiganMedGrower said:

Sweet. Looks like frosty buds.

The yellowing and burning is from the too much pk and not enough nitrogen.

You can just taper the complete grow nute down towards the end of the grow and they will stay more green and you get bigger better buds.

That's how I have learned to do it anyway.

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Awesome thanks for taking the time. I'll be sure to do that. I just saw your post with your garden. Those ladies are beautiful