Autoflowers indoor - It really is that simple

Majikoopa

Well-Known Member
A micro grow CAN be done,

Yes it can. I started with a computer case. It has two computer fans. One in one out and 4 cfls across the top. Worked pretty good with a lot of SLT. I still have it.

Now I’m in a 6’x6’x6’ room with a 600 and 400hps hanging in there. I finally found what works for me and my needs.
I feel ya man, we all start somewhere with a setup that works for us, whatever that is. Ive seen a dorm room kid with a computer case before, great way to be discreet. Its funny what can be done with some creativity. I have a more advanced setup now too, obviously, but have a special place in my heart for a micro grow.
 

tripleD

Well-Known Member
Sorry old thread but I got something like this I don't see how you ran 2 mars300 is there any led stronger that's cooler money is not a problem for my little ones but size sadly is :( something same size just more powerful with low temps
My spydr600LED that I bought a few yrs ago does not put out hardly any heat, but I'm sure there are cheaper options out there now that are probably just as cool and probably stronger. GL
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
Yes you can grow indoors without a heater in the winter.

One of my BKR f4s grown between 60-70 degrees. Yep it’s a bit cold here. I trimmed it up a bit and will hang it in a few days. 1 gallon pot. Happy Frog soil. 600 hps 24/0.

Cold weather does slow things down. It’s shit stinky though. Cool colors in there too.

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CannaSci

Member
Just some of the BS I've encountered over the last 8 years. Keep this shit simple.

1. I use 1 gallon grow bags. You don't need 5 and 10 gallon pots. (Waste dirt if it makes you feel better)
2. FFOF 600 hps - 24/0. Just keep the light on. A 250, or a 400 works too.
3. You don't need molasses, dino cum, or insect saliva.
4. You don't need a dark period.
5. Flushing is for the toilet.
6. Ventilation - Not real necessary. Fans are needed for sure.
HLG:

I have a few questions.

Another grow I am doing a KISS DWC with FloraMicro+FloraBloom, but not FloraGro. Do I really need FloraGro for this method?

I know it has been asked before but isn't FFOF too hot? Do you mix in perlite or anything else to offset this? If so, at what ratio? When I first started growing with soil (FFOF), it burnt the shit out of so many of my plants and seedlings. I learned the hard way. As you can imagine this makes me hesitant to try it again. I was thinking of mixing 4:1 ffof : perlite and placing a peat pellet in the middle of the pot to start the seed in the same pot it will be start and finish in.

Looking to go your route with a 3x6x6ft area with 600W HPS + 600W ViparSpectra LED for supplemental. I am wanting to go this route not necessarily for the simplicity or less grow equipment, but for the variety. I go through QP/mo and my tolerance adapts to strains pretty quick, plus I like to try different strains. Ideally I would grow 8 plants in this area with 4 different strains. A tad worried about height variation so trying to figure out how I can raise/lower plants easier if I need to.
 

Kerovan

Well-Known Member
HLG:

I have a few questions.

Another grow I am doing a KISS DWC with FloraMicro+FloraBloom, but not FloraGro. Do I really need FloraGro for this method?

I know it has been asked before but isn't FFOF too hot? Do you mix in perlite or anything else to offset this? If so, at what ratio? When I first started growing with soil (FFOF), it burnt the shit out of so many of my plants and seedlings. I learned the hard way. As you can imagine this makes me hesitant to try it again. I was thinking of mixing 4:1 ffof : perlite and placing a peat pellet in the middle of the pot to start the seed in the same pot it will be start and finish in.
I use FFOF exclusively for the last decade or so and have never had it burn anything. It has a lot of perlite already, so I add just a little more. 1 part perlite to 6 parts FFOF. I put the seeds directly in the FFOF, including some autoflowers that I am doing currently that people say are sensitive, no issues with them burning. I start feeding them fertilizers at around 10-14 days.
 

CannaSci

Member
I use FFOF exclusively for the last decade or so and have never had it burn anything. It has a lot of perlite already, so I add just a little more. 1 part perlite to 6 parts FFOF. I put the seeds directly in the FFOF, including some autoflowers that I am doing currently that people say are sensitive, no issues with them burning. I start feeding them fertilizers at around 10-14 days.
Using RO water or tap? I'll be using RO water, but now that I think of it I was using well water back then, maybe that was my problem. PH'd it still, but its probably 350ppm on it's own.
 

Kerovan

Well-Known Member
Using RO water or tap? I'll be using RO water, but now that I think of it I was using well water back then, maybe that was my problem. PH'd it still, but its probably 350ppm on it's own.
RO and/or tap depending on the mood... If using RO I always add 1 tsp of Calimagic per gallon.
 

frizzayy

Member
HLG:

I have a few questions.

Another grow I am doing a KISS DWC with FloraMicro+FloraBloom, but not FloraGro. Do I really need FloraGro for this method?

I know it has been asked before but isn't FFOF too hot? Do you mix in perlite or anything else to offset this? If so, at what ratio? When I first started growing with soil (FFOF), it burnt the shit out of so many of my plants and seedlings. I learned the hard way. As you can imagine this makes me hesitant to try it again. I was thinking of mixing 4:1 ffof : perlite and placing a peat pellet in the middle of the pot to start the seed in the same pot it will be start and finish in.

Looking to go your route with a 3x6x6ft area with 600W HPS + 600W ViparSpectra LED for supplemental. I am wanting to go this route not necessarily for the simplicity or less grow equipment, but for the variety. I go through QP/mo and my tolerance adapts to strains pretty quick, plus I like to try different strains. Ideally I would grow 8 plants in this area with 4 different strains. A tad worried about height variation so trying to figure out how I can raise/lower plants easier if I need to.
Great light setup ur tent a lot bigger then mine tho I'd go the 1000 shitttt
 

PIGUNIT

Member
@HighLowGrow. Slightly offtopic. I have a patch of autos going at the moment they are sweetseeds auto fem mix and i noticed one has hermied and thrown a couple of bananas. Summer here and i am certain that heat stress has caused this. Nothing i can do about it. Don't have the dollars for AC and it would give away my stealth.

My question is will the seeds be any good. Will they be Reg autos, fem autos, hermie themselves? Do you have any knowledge on this?

Love the thread cheers.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
About 4-5 days ago I started 4 seeds from a hermie plant I had a few months ago. I should start 20 or so to get a better picture.

I’ll start a thread on it. I’m interested too.

Find ALL the nanners and scrape them off. You’ll be ok.

Not sure if I answered your question. If not ask it again. :bigjoint:
 

tripleD

Well-Known Member
I started out 18/6, then I tried 24/7, and now I'm going with 20/4 and that seems to be the sweet spot for my AK48's and Blue Mystics. I was using Tiger bloom, big Bloom, and Grow Big, with really good results, but I'm experimenting w General Organics Go Box for a few grows now to see if I can actually tell the difference between a Blue Mystic or AK48 that was grown with Nutes VS a Blue Mystic or AK48 that was grown using organics, and so far no one has been able to tell me that they taste any difference between the ones grown in nutes vs the ones grown in organics......I'm going to test it a few more times, but unless something changes I'm going back to growing my Blue Mystics and AK48's with Nutes instead of Organics because I get about 35% more weight, and because (so far) none of my friends or I can tell the difference in quality, taste, or how they burn.
I also:
1) compared 5gal smart pots to 5gal cheap nursery pots with zero noticeable difference, except I have to water more with the more expensive smart pots.
2) experimented with flushing vs not flushing.....now I don't flush.
3) experimented with RO water vs Tap water.....now I just use tap water that I let set out for a day or more to get rid of the chlorine.
4) Discovered the hard way that extreme Heat or Cold can definitely stunt production in Autos, so I try to keep it around 80degrees now.
5) experimented with putting them in darkness for a few days before cutting....I don't bother with that any more either.

These are just my personal experiences that I've observed growing Autos exclusively for the last 2 years, and if anyone disagrees with my assessment then FUCK YOU!!
JUST KIDDING HAHAHAHA........ I actually welcome anyone who might have a different opinion than me because that's how we ALL learn to be BETTER GROWERS!!
SOOOOOO what are you waiting for??? Let me have it!!! Tell me just how STUPID I am for not using RO water, expensive smart Spots, or more natural organics to grow my Autos.
 

Dabber68

Well-Known Member
I started out 18/6, then I tried 24/7, and now I'm going with 20/4 and that seems to be the sweet spot for my AK48's and Blue Mystics. I was using Tiger bloom, big Bloom, and Grow Big, with really good results, but I'm experimenting w General Organics Go Box for a few grows now to see if I can actually tell the difference between a Blue Mystic or AK48 that was grown with Nutes VS a Blue Mystic or AK48 that was grown using organics, and so far no one has been able to tell me that they taste any difference between the ones grown in nutes vs the ones grown in organics......I'm going to test it a few more times, but unless something changes I'm going back to growing my Blue Mystics and AK48's with Nutes instead of Organics because I get about 35% more weight, and because (so far) none of my friends or I can tell the difference in quality, taste, or how they burn.
I also:
1) compared 5gal smart pots to 5gal cheap nursery pots with zero noticeable difference, except I have to water more with the more expensive smart pots.
2) experimented with flushing vs not flushing.....now I don't flush.
3) experimented with RO water vs Tap water.....now I just use tap water that I let set out for a day or more to get rid of the chlorine.
4) Discovered the hard way that extreme Heat or Cold can definitely stunt production in Autos, so I try to keep it around 80degrees now.
5) experimented with putting them in darkness for a few days before cutting....I don't bother with that any more either.

These are just my personal experiences that I've observed growing Autos exclusively for the last 2 years, and if anyone disagrees with my assessment then FUCK YOU!!
JUST KIDDING HAHAHAHA........ I actually welcome anyone who might have a different opinion than me because that's how we ALL learn to be BETTER GROWERS!!
SOOOOOO what are you waiting for??? Let me have it!!! Tell me just how STUPID I am for not using RO water, expensive smart Spots, or more natural organics to grow my Autos.
LOL I couldn't agree more we all grow different what works for some may not work for others. I'm just starting my 2nd grow and applying what I learned from it to improve on this current grow. I also am using FF trio liquid and powder with amended soil this grow where I didn't on the 1st to see if it makes a difference matter of fact my soil mix changed completely with the mix from 1st grow being my base mix.
I also grow with what some call cheap LEDs and have been told so but most LEDs are made in China so I figured what the heck LOL. We all are different so we all will grow different.
 

Dabber68

Well-Known Member
^^^^^^ if ya sit back and think about the whole process from seed to harvest, it starts making sense keeping it simple. So many people use a lot of unnecessary additives and waste mucho buckos.

KEEP THIS SHIT SIMPLE. :mrgreen:
I would but I got this thing called GCD you know like OCD LOL but I get what you're saying. I'm trying to find my groove and stick with it. Soon as my 1st grow is dry starting grow 3 so by my next grow season will have this nailed down hopefully
 
Beautiful man. I love the simple easy style of growing. No BS just let the mofo do its thing and good auto genes are just the simplest and easy. I did move on from your GH 3 part formula tho, and made it even easier going with the Maxibloom powder only in soil. Lucas Formula recipe. I Like FFHF and use 2 gallon. You're so right it's a waste of soil to use 5 gallons for autos.

Now I'm liking on the regs too. I go straight to 12/12 but, I still love an auto.

Beautiful plants! Thanks for sharing the simple style.
I use 1 2 3 method grow 1bloom 2 micro 3 grow for growing and the reverse for flowering up to week 4 of flower the cut the grow and use 2 micro 4 bloom done this for years between 7 and 9 ounce dry cured budd in metre square tent always depends on strain
 

tripleD

Well-Known Member
I use 1 2 3 method grow 1bloom 2 micro 3 grow for growing and the reverse for flowering up to week 4 of flower the cut the grow and use 2 micro 4 bloom done this for years between 7 and 9 ounce dry cured budd in metre square tent always depends on strain
What do u mean by bloom, micro, grow & reverse for flower??
 
What do u mean by bloom, micro, grow & reverse for flower??
I grow in a nft tank using general hydroponics flora 3 part .it' grow .micro. a d bloom .you change the ratio as you go thro the grow to start .ie grow use a ratio of 1 bloom 2 micro 3 grow you need a cf -ec meter to get the strength you want then when you begin flowering you just reverse the mix ie 1 grow 2 micro and 3 bloom .4 weeks into flower cut the grow and use 2 micro 4 bloom it sounds complicated but it' a piece of pis but you must keep ph bout 6 and e.c c.f between 12 and 20 depends on strain some take more than others change the tank weekly you can not go wrong .
 
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