Automating pH / remote pH monitor

Justin Freidman

Well-Known Member
I'm looking for ideas to remotely manage / monitor pH in my tank. I'm currently using a 160L tank and having to add pH down each day.

Every 24 hours the pH rises from 5.5 to 6.5 which I'm fine with (EC stays the same), however it's a 30 minute drive to my grow room each day, which I'd like to avoid if possible.

I currently run an ip-based camera system in the grow room and I'm wondering if there's a remote pH meter I can use to monitor and build some sort of remote system to add a small of pH.

If I could run something, then I'd only need to check the grow room a couple of times a week. Any ideas welcome!
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
Automation way is a expensive route - just interested what acid do you use for lowering PH?

Because change of 1 on PH chart in 24 hours isn't good - at all.
 

Justin Freidman

Well-Known Member
I'm using phosphoric acid. 3ml in the 160L reservoir beings it down from 6.5 to 5.5.

I do have 3 airstones in there which I read somewhere can increase pH.
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
Strange... I have a 150L tank and 30-70L of water in system (depending on a system) so 180-220L and it's so stable it changes 0.2 PH in 7-8 days (in winter and summer).... Try different acids - maybe sulfuric (it doesn't change "NPK ratio") and it's a nutrient that plants absorb as needed with no complementary nutrients
 

Justin Freidman

Well-Known Member
The plants are thriving and 3 weeks in to flowering. I'm feeding them every 2 hours (flood and drain) during the 12 hours light and once in the dark.

OK. Cool. Not sure if I can get sulfuric acid. How about using hydrochloric acid? I can get that here very easily,
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
No, don't use HCl, Cl is not a welcoming nutrient that you plants need :-)

Try to use/mix nitric, phosphoric, sulfuric (and find out what one works with you nutrient best)

On that said, nitric and phosphoric will change you "NPK ratio" and sulfuric will not.

A lot of problems arises from poor fertilizers but that is a different topic.

You could always go a PH controller route but its about 400-500€ (quality equipment) / system
 

Justin Freidman

Well-Known Member
OK. Thanks. I'll go on the hunt and see what I can find. I'm using Ionic nutrients at the moment with rain water. However, a load of Hesi nutrients has arrived, so maybe it's more stable with them?
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
OK. Thanks. I'll go on the hunt and see what I can find. I'm using Ionic nutrients at the moment with rain water. However, a load of Hesi nutrients has arrived, so maybe it's more stable with them?
I'm in Europe so we have some different stuff...
But when I was researching few years ago i saw a good ("user friendly company") that builds upon a good concept of salt nutrients with solid feeding tables:

http://npk-industries.com/nutrients_bio_stimulants.html
http://npk-industries.com/nutrients_bio_stimulants.html
I use the same concept but mix my own ratios and buy in bulk from HAIFA CHEMICALS (25-50kg bags that last 2+ years)

And than you get what I spoke in first post - stable PH - much stable than liquid fertilizers (I tried HESI, GHE, AN, Platinium nutrients)

I wish you the best luck with you PH 8-)
 

Justin Freidman

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. I'm not to concerned about the ph rising as 5.5-6.5 covers a nice spectrum for absorption. It's having to make the trip each day to adjust.

I was thinking for my next grow to use a 320L reservoir.

I'll certainly try some different acids.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. I'm not to concerned about the ph rising as 5.5-6.5 covers a nice spectrum for absorption. It's having to make the trip each day to adjust.

I was thinking for my next grow to use a 320L reservoir.

I'll certainly try some different acids.
You may want to try and solve the issue before u throw money at it. I had the same issue and it took a bit but a combination of different nutes and got rid of stones, I now use water pumps to add DO which did seem to help. I switched to house and garden, then to a cheaper knock off mixed locally. It also may be the rain water effecting it as well.
 

Justin Freidman

Well-Known Member
I'm just waiting for the filtration system for our well to go in. So will try a few different combinations of nutrients and the filtered well water.

I guess I could always remove the airstones. I was running them because my water was at 27 degrees C, but the new aircon is working great and it's down to 22, so I don't need to worry about the water being warm enough for root rot. I was trying to prevent any chance with highly oxygenated water.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I'm just waiting for the filtration system for our well to go in. So will try a few different combinations of nutrients and the filtered well water.

I guess I could always remove the airstones. I was running them because my water was at 27 degrees C, but the new aircon is working great and it's down to 22, so I don't need to worry about the water being warm enough for root rot. I was trying to prevent any chance with highly oxygenated water.
Yes root rot is a conern. not sure of your setup but typically the air adds heat as well. I have a pump in res that shoots a stream of water up and against the lid, it creates a massive rain storm in there LOL. If running hydro my thoughts and experience is, if u want to get the most out of your effort then chill the water, I resisted for a few years and now know it was a fools folly ;).
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
Yes root rot is a conern. not sure of your setup but typically the air adds heat as well. I have a pump in res that shoots a stream of water up and against the lid, it creates a massive rain storm in there LOL. If running hydro my thoughts and experience is, if u want to get the most out of your effort then chill the water, I resisted for a few years and now know it was a fools folly ;).
If you are in basement or underground without thermal insulation (on the floor) than you can cool your reservoir just by placing it on the cold concrete floor. I usually get about -3'C to -5'C than ambient temperature
 

Justin Freidman

Well-Known Member
I'm running in an extremely hot country, average outdoor temps are 35 degrees C. I have to run an aircon in the grow room which keeps the temp in the room at 23 degrees C (Humidity 50%)

I'm going to use a water chiller for drinking water and modify it so I can run a water loop through the reservoir. I'd be happy to drop the water down to 20 degrees C. I love DIY projects.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I'm running in an extremely hot country, average outdoor temps are 35 degrees C. I have to run an aircon in the grow room which keeps the temp in the room at 23 degrees C (Humidity 50%)

I'm going to use a water chiller for drinking water and modify it so I can run a water loop through the reservoir. I'd be happy to drop the water down to 20 degrees C. I love DIY projects.
Let me know how it works out, I have one sitting waiting to be converted :) be very careful if bending any pipes .... trust me lol.
 
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