MissyGoddess
Well-Known Member
Newbie question, when exactly do I test for PPM/EC during the mixing process? Do you mix the recipe, check PPM/EC/Ph and then adjust pH as needed? Or do you adjust for pH first then check?
In my case, my nutes (roots organic in RO water) mix up to between 3.8-4.2 pH after 24+ hours of heavy mixing with powerheads and air stones. I have a Hanna Growchek meter, all calibrated, along with a pinpoint pH meter to double check, it is what it is. So I seem to get what I feel is a good PPM/EC reading but ph is really low, so I add pH UP to get it in the 6.2-6.3 range for soil. Once I get the pH correct I am left with an EC of 1.6-1.7 with a PPM pushing 1300 just from adding enough pH up to fix the pH problem. Do I ignore the PPM and EC readings after adjusting for pH or are those numbers really a concern? I seem to have just the slightest sign of nute burn on the tips of my leaves but nothing like what 1300ppm would do if it were all nutes. I am guessing the readings after adjusting pH aren't readings to go off of but would like to verify if that is true.
In my case, my nutes (roots organic in RO water) mix up to between 3.8-4.2 pH after 24+ hours of heavy mixing with powerheads and air stones. I have a Hanna Growchek meter, all calibrated, along with a pinpoint pH meter to double check, it is what it is. So I seem to get what I feel is a good PPM/EC reading but ph is really low, so I add pH UP to get it in the 6.2-6.3 range for soil. Once I get the pH correct I am left with an EC of 1.6-1.7 with a PPM pushing 1300 just from adding enough pH up to fix the pH problem. Do I ignore the PPM and EC readings after adjusting for pH or are those numbers really a concern? I seem to have just the slightest sign of nute burn on the tips of my leaves but nothing like what 1300ppm would do if it were all nutes. I am guessing the readings after adjusting pH aren't readings to go off of but would like to verify if that is true.