Best COB (CXB3590) color temperature for flowering?

CobKits said:

yeah i know that stuff is on ebay, i snag what i see locally

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Thinking more like box store, i.e. HD, Walmart. The Philips 60 and 100w replacements run really cool and you can redeploy them easily. You can pick up a couple of different temperature for about $10, good for a test.

For flowering , take 3000k 80 cri top bin.
You can have 2700k too, i cant find datasheet for this one .

Yestarday i found this :

http://www.satisled.com/100w-high-power-led-warm-white-2000k_p5174.html

in order to add to my 4 cxb3590 3500k , but i dont know if its worth

PhotonFUD said:

Thinking more like box store, i.e. HD, Walmart. The Philips 60 and 100w replacements run really cool and you can redeploy them easily. You can pick up a couple of different temperature for about $10, good for a test.

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you can fry eggs on those suckers. try unscrewing one with your bare hands!

testiclees said:

I grew real pretty flowers with vero 29s at 4k. I added 4 cxb 3590 @3500k to that light. Will see whats up in a couple months.

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So how the 3500k performed?

CobKits said:

you can fry eggs on those suckers. try unscrewing one with your bare hands!

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Even with a tiny bit of airflow it's already cool enough to hold it for a longer period and unscrew it. (the 100W)
Without it gets too hot to touch comfortably.

Just tested it with my own 13W (1521 lumen 2700K) bulbs.

20W Osram Parathoms aren't bulbs you want to touch.
Maybe with an airflow of at least 1 m/s, but they're pretty hot.

They're good bulbs though, little hotter than I really wanted but sockets can take a higher temp than the nerves in my hand.

They're also rather cheap, about the price per watt as a Gavita DE.
And I think by now they should be more efficient too, 117lm/w for the Philips bulb, that's including diffuser/PSU losses. Without diffuser it should be 130 lm/w at the least.

PurpleBuz said:

generally the higher CRI (90 cri) are significantly less efficient than the more standard 80 CRI. It has to do with phosphor technology and what it takes to produce a wider fatter spectrum. In fact I'm willing to bet that an 80 CRI 3500K or 3000K will out produce a 90CRI cob with quality flowers.

If you want the fat spectrum of a 90 CRI without sacrificing the efficiency then add a few royal blues, and Deep Reds to a 3500K or a 3000K cob or mix in a few 65K cobs with 3K cobs.

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Hahaha!

Where's 2700k 80 cri and 3500k 80 cri on this chart

they ar not on that chart/ look at any other mfrs chips for that color its almost exactly the same between mfrs.

cutter has 3500k 80 cree spectrum on his website, maybe 2700 as well

Dodongo said:

Hi All,

Curious to what color temperature COBs everyone is using for for flowering. I'm making a CXB3590 array and not sure which color to use. It seems like a good portion of people here use 3000k while others use 3500k (some even 4000k). Any suggestions for the optimal flowering color temp?

Thanks in advance!

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There is no Best just choices. My current board uses 3000k 90cri for flower works great for me. I also have a mixed 3500k/5000k board both 80cri

My preference is to go higher CRI for flower and lower CRI for veg. The more reds you can provide, the better. Also the higher CRI appears to produce a better profile. Another benefit being that it is more pleasant on the eyes to work under.

As for colour temps, I like using the 3000k as a baseline. For fast flowering shorter plants like indicas it might help to go lower during veg. Sativa dominant can handle higher to keep them shorter. However, I have found that if you do aggressive topping during veg you can get a good benefit using the 3000k having quite a few more flowering sites.