Blueberry and kerosene krash yellowing

FatherNelson said:

600 like a week before flower


Yep. I topped and started doing LST early. Hell, my seedling I already bent the stem and it doesnt have a 5 leaf yet.

I dont want to modify the light a bunch, would rather they grow into a stronger intensity that they can handle.

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If this issue is sorted soon the tops are coming off

ProPheT 216 said:

I wonder in all honesty how much load using a dimmer puts on the driver. To me things always perform best and last langer with features turned off. No facts here but my simple mind tells me your working your light hard using a dimmer.

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No, it doesn't work that way. Turning it down with dimming reduces light, heat and the load on both driver and LEDs.

pulchripes said:

I have an app called PPFD meter that a guy on YouTube ran a really expensive meter up against and the results were pretty much the same, I then ran the lights to recommend range for their size and clear signs of light stress happened which baffled me to be honest, I used a laser thermometer on the leaves and readings were fine too, I'm gonna at least hang the second LED tonight.
You think 2000+ppm in the runoff is also an issue?

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PPFD app is good WHEN PAIRED WITH the UNI-T Bluetooth lux meter.

The blueberry today, not sure if the flush worked or they're getting worse

It would show up on new growth, these ones will remain as is. Give it a few days.

pulchripes said:

The blueberry today, not sure if the flush worked or they're getting worse View attachment 5381682

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You shouldn't flush living soil. The parts that were affected by the nutrient burn will never improve. If you're going to use a super soil or dry amendments in your final pot instead of top dressing, you should probably flip to flower around 5-10 days after transplant to allow the roots to get settled and to prevent nute burn.

UnknownRemedy said:

You shouldn't flush living soil. The parts that were affected by the nutrient burn will never improve. If you're going to use a super soil or dry amendments in your final pot instead of top dressing, you should probably flip to flower around 5-10 days after transplant to allow the roots to get settled and to prevent nute burn.

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I know flushing the living soil wasn't ideal but the burn was rocketing away and I didn't want to risk them being really bad, got the PPM down to around 800 from over 2000

It's happening with the others now, looks to be overall yellowing between the veins like mag deficiency and this yellowing of the whole margins and the bottoms look like N deficiency, so I'm like ph is fine, more nutes? Less? Foliar feed with Epsom salts? Never been in such a situation at mid veg before, doubt the whole organic dry amendments thing will be something I'll be using again

pulchripes said:

It's happening with the others now, looks to be overall yellowing between the veins like mag deficiency and this yellowing of the whole margins and the bottoms look like N deficiency, so I'm like ph is fine, more nutes? Less? Foliar feed with Epsom salts? Never been in such a situation at mid veg before, doubt the whole organic dry amendments thing will be something I'll be using again

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I guess the saying is "If I fail, just give up"

UnknownRemedy said:

I guess the saying is "If I fail, just give up"

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If I lose all 4 because of switching up then I probably will give up on dry amendments and use stuff I've been used to that I feel more in control of

Hey I am new to growing but am finishing my grow of DP Blueberry. They were feminized seeds and I experienced the exact same discoloration on leaves. It’s my understanding that blueberry is very sensitive to nutrients. Try backing off on the nutrients as when I noticed the issue I fed and they burned then they did not want to recover despite multiple waterings only. Have a few weeks but it’s ugly

MrGold said:

Hey I am new to growing but am finishing my grow of DP Blueberry. They were feminized seeds and I experienced the exact same discoloration on leaves. It’s my understanding that blueberry is very sensitive to nutrients. Try backing off on the nutrients as when I noticed the issue I fed and they burned then they did not want to recover despite multiple waterings only. Have a few weeks but it’s ugly

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Thanks, reassuring to know, I've grown the auto version before but can't remember exactly what happened at what stage. It's not handy growing 4 different strains that all need different levels of stuff, the KK hates the level of light it's getting, drying up and curling on the edges, while the euforia wants more, having to adjust both lights and plant positions to cater for each one. Did this happen in veg with yours? They turn out OK in the end? Any pics of them at different stages?

Is this light stress at the top leaves? Temps are 25 degrees lights on