Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
dabby duck
Well-Known Member
Octopart.com
Chipfinder.com
Good search engines. Great actually.
Chipfinder.com
Good search engines. Great actually.
haze010
Well-Known Member
Yep and i was using octopart, but meanwell changed their model numbers on them, it said out of stock everywhere as i searched for the discountinued part number. awesome search engine still wont find a discountinued model in stock...Octopart.com
Chipfinder.com
Good search engines. Great actually.
Thus my comment about my stupid mistake.
A Diy guy who isnt a distributer wont show up in either of those search engines.
haze010
Well-Known Member
Youre not a true pothead if you havent once forgotton your papers and made a makeshift bong out of whatever you could find.
My favorite was when i worked in a restaurant id take a raw potato that had been wrapped in tinfoil to get baked in the oven. cut a horizontal tube about 3/4 thru it then a vertical tube meeting it. Round off the mouth of the vertical tube then poke holes in a piece of the tinfoil for a makeshift screen. Instant bong and the interior of the potato has moisture which would act like a water bong does and help cool the smoke.
Imagine being arrested for drug paraphernalia and them seizing a potato for evidence... LMFAO by the time your court date came up their evidence would be compost.
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
You can also go quickly to the backyard and make a hole in the ground and take a bottle without floor to create a so-called earth bong.
Just something uncomfortable to smoke ... LMFAO!
Just something uncomfortable to smoke ... LMFAO!
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
and after that you can use it as a tv/radio antenna
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yepp!
They are suitable for seedlings and clones!
But also depends on how many strips are used to build the light. With only one or two strips you can place your seedlings 10cm/4" below the strips without getting probs.
They are suitable for seedlings and clones!
But also depends on how many strips are used to build the light. With only one or two strips you can place your seedlings 10cm/4" below the strips without getting probs.
shiva71
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks! I have an ultra micro cab 30x30cm and was thinking of 4 of the 280mm strips for seedlings. Are there any grow journals of people using these strip leds?
Cheers!
I've used mine seedling all the way through flower with 9 strips. Starting over, I would have wired it up to only run the center strips (use a switch of the outers as they get bigger during veg) and dim them as needed. You can run these as close to your plants as they will tolerate as they barely put off any heat.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Optics for eb strips
Serva
Well-Known Member
How did you calculate it? Whats the distance to achieve 478μMol/s? I read that you need 600/700 up to 1000 (maximum) for flowering, thats what I would like to achive. I've got 0,45m^2 and would like to run 24x 1' (28cm) "EB Series LED Module" at 2x HVGC-100-350A in series circuit, so running them between 210-350mA, 108-184W, and 17.820-28.704 lm. That should be equal with some 600-1000W HPS for a 4'x4'. So far what I can calculate, but maybe you could help me out, and getting it more exactly?
Would like to achive 800-1000μMol/s at 0,3-0,5 ft and atleast 600μMol/s at 1,5 ft.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Hi Serva,
These number are PPF(total photo flux).
If you want PPFD(photon flux density on a given area), which is used to describe the light which impacts the canopy you need to divide it with your grow area.
This means, if we still use the 478μMol/s example from above, we need to divide it with your 0,45m². One of his lamps would have 1062μMol/s PPFD at 0,45m².
But you need to calculate distance and reflective losses also here, so ~10-20% less is probably the real value.
So between 850-950μMol/s PPFD on 0,45m².
You can easily check it with a cheap lux-meter(10$) and multiply the readings by 0,0145 to get an idea of the real PPFD.
The 1' 3k/EB-Series strips @350mA is described with 156lm/w at 50°C, when the LER is 325 like the Vero COB's(same phosphors?) they are 49% eff.
Each strip needs 22,1v at 350mA, so all 24 together have 185,64w net. Multiplied with 49% eff. would give out ~91PAR/w. When the same phosphors are used the QER should be 4,8-4,9μMol/j for the 3k spectrum, so ~435-445μMol/s total PPF. Divided by your 0,45m² area = ~990μMol/s, - 10-20% and you get ~790-890μMol/s real PPFD.
Hope this is what you want to know about your new light..
These number are PPF(total photo flux).
If you want PPFD(photon flux density on a given area), which is used to describe the light which impacts the canopy you need to divide it with your grow area.
This means, if we still use the 478μMol/s example from above, we need to divide it with your 0,45m². One of his lamps would have 1062μMol/s PPFD at 0,45m².
But you need to calculate distance and reflective losses also here, so ~10-20% less is probably the real value.
So between 850-950μMol/s PPFD on 0,45m².
You can easily check it with a cheap lux-meter(10$) and multiply the readings by 0,0145 to get an idea of the real PPFD.
The 1' 3k/EB-Series strips @350mA is described with 156lm/w at 50°C, when the LER is 325 like the Vero COB's(same phosphors?) they are 49% eff.
Each strip needs 22,1v at 350mA, so all 24 together have 185,64w net. Multiplied with 49% eff. would give out ~91PAR/w. When the same phosphors are used the QER should be 4,8-4,9μMol/j for the 3k spectrum, so ~435-445μMol/s total PPF. Divided by your 0,45m² area = ~990μMol/s, - 10-20% and you get ~790-890μMol/s real PPFD.
Hope this is what you want to know about your new light..
haze010
Well-Known Member
Curious if youve heard anything about optics for the samsung h strips? Uve looked around but found nothing solid yet that fits them.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Same optics for H-Series + F-Series, they all match Zhaga Book standards.
The lenses can be glued or mounted via additional clamps or via connectors on the strips.
At least one method will work with each of this strips as long as they are 1', 2' or 4' long.
Serva
Well-Known Member
Thanks for explaining, got it. What I still don't understand is the last point. When I see poeple posting test results (par meter), they say someing like 400μMol/s at 30cm and 200μMol/s at 40cm, which is PPFD? When you tell me now I will have 790-890μMol/s, is it the output directly at the lamp, and I need another law to calculate whats arrives at 0.5' / 1' / ...?so ~435-445μMol/s total PPF. Divided by your 0,45m² area = ~990μMol/s, - 10-20% and you get ~790-890μMol/s real PPFD.
Hope this is what you want to know about your new light..
Or is this bullshit because I grow in some small closed cabinet with white walls, so all light will be reflected, and I will have 790-890μMol/s all over the canopy, and it doesnt matter if its a young plant with 1', or some older one with 2'?
And last question: Is this now a good value, or do I need more?
haze010
Well-Known Member
Okay, i thought it was more complicated than it is. So all the book7 linear stuff will fit these if i understand you correctly? I thought someone tried a book7 linear standard one and something about the connector was in the way.
edit: Nevermind, it was the EB ones with the connector issue on book7 standard. this gets so confusiong sometimes.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Both are PPFD!
PPFD is distance dependend and follows certain laws..
If you double the distance you have 4x less intensity, because the light is distributed to a four times larger area.
The PAR measurements given by the meter are always spot measurements and apply for 1m2 area.
That's why I recommended you a simple lux meter and conversation factors to get an idea of the real ppfd.
It's much less accurate but accurate enough to give you values to work with.
The values I gave you are only an approximate estimate.
In order to obtain the actual performance at different distances, you must create a PAR map consisting of numerous point measurements, evenly distributed over your entire surface and then calculate the average PPFD.
My goal is to get an even distributed ~50.000lx(~700μMol/s) over the whole canopy.
I'm not interested to push the limits higher because usually I do not use hydro and/or CO² but I'm interested to safe energy as much as possible but still providing enough light to my plants.
And to your last question, it is more than enough and you don't need to change anything. The lower the distance the higher the intensity, but remember, above 1000μMol/s you can easily get bleaching and the plants needs a lot more nutes.
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