Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
I mean, it is hard to put wagos inside the tube even if it is big enough (making the fixture heavy probably).
Dunno... still deciding how to build the fixture to make it clean
EDIT: any problem running different Kelvin temperature together? like 3500k and 5000k in the same parallel build
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Serva
Well-Known Member
I don‘t have problems, but it‘s not suggested due to different voltages. But the difference with strips is so small, that it isn‘t a problem so far.
Fitting the wagos inside te tubes may not be hard, but to use them properly. Either get different connectors, which you can fit into the frame, like a kettle plug, or just mount them on top (as I did). At some point design was not important for me. I can see only the bottom side anyways.
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Hi, here is another really stupid question that I coudn't answer on my own.
I Can' t connect a 18AWG silicon wire to bridgelux stripe solderless connector.
I had try also to put a little layer of solder to make it more stiff but again wire doesn't conect to the board.
Maybe i must pull or push on connector?
seeing videos on youtube is seems like just push wire inside and connect it without pain but surely I' making something wrong.
Maybe i should adopt a smaller wire also if bridgelux datasheet say 18awg may be fine?
hoping my bad english question is understable
regards
I Can' t connect a 18AWG silicon wire to bridgelux stripe solderless connector.
I had try also to put a little layer of solder to make it more stiff but again wire doesn't conect to the board.
Maybe i must pull or push on connector?
seeing videos on youtube is seems like just push wire inside and connect it without pain but surely I' making something wrong.
Maybe i should adopt a smaller wire also if bridgelux datasheet say 18awg may be fine?
hoping my bad english question is understable
regards
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
skoomd
Well-Known Member
The connectors are rated for solid core wire, but you can use stranded wire (im assuming that's what you got) as long as you twist the strands really tight. You may need to tin the strans (solder them) but I feel like it wouldnt fit if you did.
But you're correct, the wire just slides in and you'll feel it when the level latches on. You do not need to press the level or anything to get it to hold onto the wire.
If you're still having issues, I recommend you just go out and buy some 18AWG solid core copper wire instead. It's very easy to slide it into the connectors.
Aren't you supposed to use 20awg solid? I thought that was the best size for the connectors
Kenny Grows
Active Member
Well that would depend on how hard (mA) your're running them also. Some people running them at 400mA others at 1000mA, one of those currents might burn at 8" the other would not.
skoomd
Well-Known Member
18-22 gauge is what is recommended on the data sheet. You could use 20 gauge, but I like overbuilding so 18 gauge is what I use.
18 gauge slides into the connectors like butter.
Dachem2010
Well-Known Member
So I made my first strip build I have 9 3500k and 9 5000k EB gen.2 and a HLG-185H-20A parallel build in a 2x3 tent I originally bought 2 drivers but only got sent one will this be enough light their being ran really soft with one driver at 516.67ma well a lil softer then that I have 2 more 3500k amd 1 5000k I ran out of aluminum bar stock
Dachem2010
Well-Known Member
Is this enough light to flower
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
You're running 15x 20v strips at around 500ma, so that's 10w per strip(ish) so about 150w range total, over 6 sq ft, that's 25w/sqft, just slightly under the general, ballpark recommendation, for flowering with those particular emitters.
At that soft of a drive current, you can literally have those strips within a few inches of your tops, and greatly increase the intensity.
At that soft of a drive current, you can literally have those strips within a few inches of your tops, and greatly increase the intensity.
Dachem2010
Well-Known Member
Well it's a 185w driver so there running at least that a series so probably a lil more then that
Dachem2010
Well-Known Member
Its 9.3 Amps ÷ 15 = .62 Amps so 620ma each
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
Ive had more than adequate results with 30w/sq ft with EB strips in flowering.
projectinfo
Well-Known Member
How high do you keep your lights from the canopy? In clone / veg/ flower.?
Dachem2010
Well-Known Member
This is only the 3rd day with them I normally grow outdoors they been under 150w of corn cob led the big one is an auto o got sent on mistake I think they are 3-4in from that one obviously farther from the others
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
I have a "Dr.Meter" brand el cheapo LUX meter, that I use to get near 50K LUX (whatever that means with this meter)….Depending on which "lamp" im measuring, for flowering, it can be 12" or more, down to 3-4" to get that zone. I have multiple collections of EBs with different drive currents, strip spacing ect…
Ive seen light stress in a 4x4 tent during VEG when the LUX got over 30K, but that was with over 400W of EBs...at about 16"
Possibly heat related.
Ive seen light stress in a 4x4 tent during VEG when the LUX got over 30K, but that was with over 400W of EBs...at about 16"
Possibly heat related.
projectinfo
Well-Known Member
Yeah ive had a few burns .
I just use the lix meter app on my phone. lol.
probably not good enough, but i try to air on the side of caution now.