Buds quality LEDs VS HPS

a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
they sold hps/cmh bulbs and ballast for years and now, 3 - 4 years after the rising of the LED they decide to launch a LED growlight: I call that a submisive commercial position after having admit that LED is future and what growers want.
Yea and they launched a DE bulb too, What early this year? They are going to launch any where you keep talking about. You know that though, right?
 

PilouPilou

Well-Known Member
Yea and they launched a DE bulb too, What early this year? They are going to launch any where you keep talking about. You know that though, right?
Yes ofc DE have evolutions every year! It's a new tech^^ You should do same than me and a lot of pple here.. a hps grow vs a LEd grow.. I think you will be more credible after that. Sry but my own experience is clear: I have nothing to sell, but actually my 1.5/1.7gr per watt in soil of good quality buds made me easily forget HPS.. if tomorrow I can find a HPS bulb than can do same I will buy it and tell it to everyone, that's all.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
They don't have to be better, just pretty close. We would spend a further 1.2kw on top of the 4kw COBS we run doing nearly the same output with other tech.
Make little difference on a micro grow, but once you start getting a few lights up, numbers add quickly.

I totally agree. And with more watts more cooling is needed so the savings go up more.
 

Kerovan

Well-Known Member
Apparently quantum boards are getting hard to find.
Is this a good deal?
https://growerslights.com/collections/led-grow-lights/products/horticulture-lighting-group-260-watt-xl-quantum-board-led-kit

So for $750 I can replace a 1,000w HPS and only pull 520w at the wall?

I'll take a closer look at this when the weather gets warmer. Maybe those kits will be a little less expensive... :roll:
You are going to need 3 of them to approach a 1000W hps. They are good lights, don't get me wrong, I have one of those in a 4x2 tent, but led people exaggerate how powerful they are.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
You haven't seen but have you ran modern LEDs even one time?

We can assume your lack of "seeing proof" stems from your inability to try for yourself? Hence why I offer the 1ft² trial run, try it one time then come back and let's discuss.

Having ran large HID rooms I can offer you my opinion in that I feel the exact opposite of what you offer, only my opinion has a bit of credibility as I've tried all of these things.

LEDs are still expensive, i'll give you that much.

I have friends growing with led. But you are right to say I don't know what I could do with them. Their weed is not better than mine and it didn't get better when they switched to led.

I am only running a few lights here. A larger Grow has very different things to consider.

But I am happy with my quality now and it is still going up as I practice so I haven't even peaked on what I can do with the tools I have now.

So it's a question of up front costs for any small advantage for me.

I am much more considering adding a 315 cmh in between my 2 600's as an upgrade than even supplementing with led. Of course I have fully tested a 315 already.

For the blue light and uv added it makes more sense in my situation. I can use the extra heat here too and adding the 315 didn't make my cooling bill go up barely at all as the room is well ventilated to begin with.

But I am not against the lamps or anything. I just want real facts not hype.

And I have learned in this thread that I will need 90% of the watts I run now to get similar or better results.

Not enough savings to buy new lighting in my situation but very informative this has been compared to the 40-60% of the wattage I see claimed constantly.

My lamps and ballasts are 3-4 years old. I will be considering new lights at some point in the near future anyway.

Then I will research current led to buy and run a comparison to my old blockbuster and 600 hortilux.

Or I will just take up sewing and finally relax. :-)
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
You guys do know that HID will probably go the way of incandescent bulbs and be banned at some point because it's a inefficient obsolete tech.

Sure. I have said this before too.

I couldn't find a green cfl twisty bulb anymore. Last I looked they only had screw in LED replacements already.

But we have plenty of time especially with the ceramic halide boom just starting up.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
A 600w HPS will be 1100 PPFD in a square meter. a 400w LED at 55% efficiency will do the same thing.

400 * .55 = 220 * 5umol/j = 1100 PPF (1100 PPFD in a square meter). 5 micromoles is the flux per watt of a typical 3000K 90CRI spectrum from phosphor coated LED.

Thank you very much.

What height are these lamps for metering and are they at the same height for the results?

And thanks again. This is really helpful.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much.

What height are these lamps for metering and are they at the same height for the results?

And thanks again. This is really helpful.
its assuming all of the light is focused into exactly that same area

its a theoretical comparison of the two technologies. how close you get to any of those lights giving you uniform coverage at that intensity over that area depends on your optics/reflector/reflectivity of walls (if any)

so i guess to answer your question- whichever height the specific fixture requires to throw all of its light exactly within a 1square meter area
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
its assuming all of the light is focused into exactly that same area

its a theoretical comparison of the two technologies. how close you get to any of those lights giving you uniform coverage at that intensity over that area depends on your optics/reflector/reflectivity of walls (if any)

so i guess to answer your question- whichever height the specific fixture requires to throw all of its light exactly within a 1square meter area
Thank you. I can't be quite that accurate but I understand.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, and all trace minerals found in nutrients are carbon based. On the molecular level, N,P, and K in organic soil is identical to N, P, and K in a bottle. There is a very thin line between whats considered organic and what's inorganic. There are no organic compounds that do not contain carbon,
but there are carbon containing compounds that are NOT considered organic. Example: CO2, carbonates, and cyanides all contain carbon but are considered inorganic.
please cite me a source other than somebody making money...that is the definition of organic chemistry, a carbon based molelcule.....Please explain how CO2 is considered inorganic in anything other than organic gardening, again, which is different.....

I get the distinction you are trying to make, but it sounds like you are describing "organic" gardening standards, which is not the SAME at all...lol

For instance.....
Yes Chlorine is inorganic and considered for use in organic gardening by the USDA, totally different concept, which I am guessing @ttystick was pestering me about, but never fully explained themselves.....very typical.

So go ahead @ttystick, point out what was incorrect, because of course, you forgot that part......
 
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Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Again, a plant uptakes inorganic nutrients, so your compost has to break down its organic constituents so that a plant can uptake the transformed inorganic compunds [see bacteria, fungi, actinomycete poo....]....there are exceptions, one being Nitrogenous amino acids, which are organic and have been proven to be assimilated directly by plant roots...

if anyone has a problem with this definition, please explain your position fully in detail and without snark.....there are always fucking exceptions, but this is the basics....
 
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