Chilli,chilli & more chillis..... GROW JOURNEL!!!!

eza82

Well-Known Member
As the title suggests........ this is ABOUT MY CHILLI`s and plans to create a SMALL online company doing CHILLIS! ( FOR AUSSIE MARKET):fire:[DONT WORRY MOD`S & STAFF I WILL NOT POST ANY ADVERTISING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT )

My plan is to germ ALL of the below and grow them out for 6 mths producing as much fruit/seed as possible ! I am tossing up between setuping an outdoor HYDRO, greenhouse, or nursery style on the ground/tables/hand watered.
Current setup is just hand watered.......
[See below for latest 10 different chilli seeds just purchased !]

SEED COMPANY!~ :fire:
I will dry all in dehidrator and package THE SEEDS in small bundles to be sold.

DRY CHILLI~:fire:
All excess dryed material will be crushed and again packaged for sale !
So any methods would be great............

HOT SAUCES~:fire:
Parts of fresh & dried matter will also go into HOT sauce recipes.... again packaged and sold.
Any good recipies would be good..... i have stripped a heap off net already ! so looking for YOUR recipie if you want to share.....
Here is what I have started with;

This is MY HOT collection...:fire:
(just purchased)
http://chilliandspice.com.au/index.php?p=catalog&parent=13&pg=1
(good example of company that i intend to setup also )

Approx 10 seeds in each pack. ( so approx 100 seeds in total)
1 pack Bhut Jolokia
1 pack Red Savina
1 pack Habanero
1 pack Chiltepin
1 pack Jamaican Hot
1 pack Dorset Naga
1 pack Chocolate Habanero
1 pack Scotch Bonnet
1 pack African Devil
1 pack Zimbabwe Bird

Bhut Jolokia seeds - HOTTEST IN THE WORLD !!
Bhut Jolokia:fire:


The world’s hottest chilli is the Bhut Jolokia originating in Assam in North East India. This Guinness World Book Record Holder variety is bred by The Chile Pepper Institute with an official Scoville heat rating (SHU) of 1,001,304 SHU twice that of the previous record holder, the Red Savina.


A SHU stands for Scoville Heat Unit and is the amount of water needed before the chilli heat is undetectable. One drop of the Bhut Jolokia extract needs a million drops of water. (Capsicum chinense)

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I have already got about 3 different chilli at moment and love to grow them ! -they are tricky to GET REALLY HOT !
Found High Pottasium is the key ! And all liquid fertz.
These are already going strong ! :fire:
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First was -Very common​

Goat Horn
Chilli Heat Level is 8​
Originally from Taiwan, this variety is very popular in China and Southeastern Asia for cooking and pickling uses. This is a chilli that is ideal as an all round chilli. Plants are very productive, setting lots of peppers for a long time. Easy to grow
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2 x NuMex varitires
NuMEX

Heat Level 7++
Small 10-12" plants, purple and green foliage, chillies 1½" long. Upright plant, ripens from lavender to deep purple to bronze/orange and finally to red. Very nice for the patio or in the house. (Capsicum annuum)​
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I purchased these about a week ago went in yesterday!!!!​

Red Scotch Bonnet Chilli Pepper:fire:


Heat Level is 9-10​

The Scotch Bonnet is not the same chilli as the Habanero they are of the same species but the Scotch Bonnet is not a Cultivar. The Scotch Bonnet has a different shape - one which closely resembles a Scot's bonnet - so it is very easy to differentiate the two. It grows mainly in the Caribbean islands while the Habanero grows mainly in Latin and North American. The flavour of the two, however, is very similar as is their heat Level. The Scotch Bonnet Red is 1 to 1-1/2 inches in diameter, is irregularly shaped. Some say the flavour is even more tropical and fruity than the Habanero. It is great for salsas and sauces. (Capsicum Chinense).​

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:fire::fire::fire:


THIS IS GOING TO BE MY GROW JOURNEL FOR MY (HOBBY) CHILLI COMPANY
wILL INCLUDE... HOW IM GERMINATING, GROWING,WHAT FERTZ ETC! And the collection of seeds, storage, databasing.....etc
THIS WILL BE A PROJECT OVER THE NEXT 6MTHS TO JUST GET STARTED!!!!!:lol: I WILL UPDATE ONCE A WEEK THOUGH WITH WHAT IS GOING ON !
SO BE PATIENT ! :blsmoke:

P.S
HAPPY TO HAVE OTHER CHILLI GROWERS ALSO POST THERE JOURNEL OR GROW HERE...
ANY ADVISE WOULD BE GREAT ......
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
GREAT REFFERENCE OVER 2000- VARITIES LISTED !

THIS IS THE BEST web to BUY SEEDS BUT CANT GET THEM INTO australia ??

wOULD BE GOOD FOR US OR UK THOUGH !
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
NEXT 2 POST ARE LONG...........

How to grow chili peppers the basics !

Are you growing chillies or chilis? Nevermind the different spellings, there are even more shapes, sizes and colours!


IMO
Everybody needs to grow chillis for cooking. Even if you don't like hot food, just a little hint of chilli to warm it up stimulates the taste buds and everything else tastes just so much better. True.

Chilli plants grow into small to medium sized bushes from half a metre to two metres tall. How big they get depends on the species and variety.
There are different species of chillies. Most chillies are grown as annuals even though they can live for a few years in warm climates.
Some chilli varieties are true perennials. Most of the common varieties belong to the species capsicum annuum, the "annual" species.
(Bell peppers, called capsicums in Australia, also belong to the species capsicum annuum.)
Chillis have small to medium sized, shiny, dark green leaves. The fruit, the chilli peppers, vary wildly in size and shape.
Chilli peppers are green to start with. Most of them ripen to a rich red, but they can also be orange, yellow, purple or brown.
They may hang down or stand up like little colourful candles. There are even ornamental varieties that are mottled and freckled.
The different chilli types not only vary in size and colour, they also vary in how hot they are! If you grow chillies for the kitchen, choose your variety with care...


Where can you grow chillis?

Chilli plants love heat. They are closely related to capsicums/bell peppers and also related to tomatoes (they are in the same family, the solanaceae), but chillies prefer their growing conditions a lot hotter.
Chilli seeds need 20°C to germinate, and it should be 30°C or more for the fruit to ripen. Night temperatures should not drop below 15°C. (At least not on a regular basis. The odd cool spell is ok.)
Chillies also don't mind humidity as much as sweet peppers or tomatoes do.
Most people will need to grow chillis in full sun. In the hottest, sunniest regions chillies still grow well with a bit of shade. Especially afternoon shade can even be beneficial. (The fruit can get sunburned.)
If you live in the tropics or subtropics, great. Your chillies should thrive. Even the "annual" varieties should live for two to three years and they produce fruit all year round.
If your climate is not tropical, don't despair. You can still grow chillies if you get decent summers. And you can extend the growing season by growing chilis indoors, just like you do with tomatoes.
In fact, chillis are also related to tomatoes, so the growing methods and requirements are similar. Except that chillies need more heat.
People with small gardens or balconies will be pleased to hear that you can grow chillis in pots.


How to grow chillies from seed

You can buy chilli plants in a nursery or you can grow chillis from seed. The seed needs at least 20°C to germinate.
Start them in early spring in cooler climates or any time during the dry season. (You could start them all year round in the tropics, but it's a good idea to let the plants grow strong before the wet season hits them.)
Chilli plants are usually started in seedling trays or small pots. They are very vulnerable when small and they don't grow all that fast.
Still, I prefer to start mine directly in the ground, because like capsicums chillis don't like being transplanted.
Actually, I only start them in the ground when I have enough seed to allow for a high percentage of fatalities. (I am the laziest gardener I know, so I don't look after my seedlings much.) I usually have enough because I save my own seed.
If I buy seed of a new chilli variety and I get one of those tiny packets with barely a dozen seeds in them, then I start them in pots.


You can plant several chilli seeds per pot. Once your seedlings have a few leaves, snip off the weaker ones and only keep the strongest.
You only want one chilli plant per pot when you plant them out.
Otherwise you will disturb their roots too much and they HATE having their roots disturbed.
If you grow chillies in seedling trays or little punnets, plant them out once they have four to six true leaves (about 5 cm tall). If you don't, their roots will start feeling restricted and it will set them back.
Chillies don't mind growing in bigger pots, so the timing for planting them out is not critical if you use pots. If you live in a cooler climate, use pots. Let them to grow to 10 to 15 cm. Make sure it's warm enough before you put them outside!
Water the chillies before transplanting, so the soil doesn't fall apart when they're removed from the pot. Be VERY careful when removing the seedlings from their pots.
Drop them in a hole in the garden, fill it back in, firm down the soil, water, done.
Inspecting and Testing Seed
OK, you’ve got your seeds home and you’re eager to plant them out. Just step back for a few moments and listen as there is a test that can significantly improve your results at this stage. Get a bowl of water and pour all the seeds you’re intending to plant, into the water. Give it a good swirl with your finger to break the surface tension of the water and ensure that it is not preventing any of the seeds sinking.
Now, any seeds that are still floating are highly unlikely to germinate, due to a variety of factors including malformation and a lack of embryo or kernel. Discard the floaters and then pour the remainders into a sieve to get rid of the water. Now inspect the seeds, with a magnifying glass if you’re really keen, and discard any that look undersized, deformed or damaged.


Getting Your Seeds to Germinate
Even with ideal conditions, getting chilli seeds to germinate can be a slow, irregular business. Talking to both small and large growers in Western Australia you can expect germination to take from one to six weeks, even in the tropical areas. The warning here is; don’t give up too early on your seeds. Just the same as the majority of other plants, chilli seeds need warmth, oxygen, and moisture before germination will occur. Below, I discuss some other factors that may help you increase your success rate planting from seeds. Temperature The ideal temperature for germinating chilli seeds is 22oC to 28oC .
The mini greenhouse I use to germinate chilli seeds. The plants in the pots nearby are curry trees, which I thoroughly recommend to all of you as an ingredient for many asian style dishes.



Fruit Maturity
In the fascinating, but heavily scientific, Capsicum and Eggplant Newsletter that used to be published by the University of Turin (Italy) I found reference to a study carried out in 1986 in Texas on seed from tabasco chillies harvested 150, 195, and 240 days after transplanting. What the scientists R.L. Edwards and F.J. Sundstrom, observed, as expected, was that the seeds from the ripe fruit had a better germination percentage than the seeds from the immature fruit.
What surprised a little more was that the germination percentage decreased as the fruit got older; after achieving 81% germination from the 150 day old plants, the percentage dropped to 63% for the 240 day old plants. To summarise these results, the study suggests that seeds from newly ripened chillies will have the highest percentage of successful seed germinations. If harvested too far either side of becoming ripe, you risk decreased seed germination performance.
Several other studies have shown drying of the seeds for 2-4 months after harvesting significantly increases germination percentages, whether dried within the chilli or separately.
Dormancy
Another factor that affects chilli seed germination is a mechanism called dormancy which is common in many plant types. This is an obvious self defense mechanism that prevents the seed germinating in Autumn only to be exposed to the risks of winter and possible seedling death. All chillies are perennials however, unless you live in the tropics, they will behave as annuals and the inherent dormancy in both the seeds and the plants will vary between the varieties.



Growing chilli plants in soils

Chillies grow in a variety of soils. Like most plants they grow better in rich soils and produce more fruit, but they will grow in any reasonably fertile soil and don't need any special treatment. If you use plenty of mulch and compost in your garden the chillies will grow just fine.
If your soil is poor, you'll have to fertilize your chillies. (And start using more mulch and compost...)
When fertilizing chillies keep in mind that, like their relatives and indeed most fruiting plants, chillies like potassium. Too much nitrogen will make them grow lots of soft leaves and no fruit.
It is important to keep your chilli plants well watered and mulched. Mulch not only improves soil over time, it also protects it from drying out.
Chillies have such a tough and hardy image, people often don't realize how sensitive they are when it comes to lack of water. Make sure your chillies have plenty and never dry out.
At the same time, don't overwater. The soil should be free draining. Chillies don't grow in swamps.


Problems when growing chillies

Chillies have weak branches. If they are loaded with fruit they can snap off. The whole plants are prone to branches drooping on the ground and breaking off, so you may want to give them some support.
(I don't. I just cut off the broken branches and the bush grows new ones. Chillies don't mind if you prune them.)
A stake will also prevent the whole plant from toppling over, which also happens because their roots are only shallow and not very strong.
Root know nematodes can cause the plant to weilt and die for no obvious reason. However, root knot nematodes are a sign of very poor soils. If you add lots of compost and mulch to your garden you shouldn't have any trouble.
Other than that chillies grow happily and aren't bothered much by any pests or diseases. If they struggle it's usually a sign that the soil is not as fertile as you thought.
Did I mention that compost and mulch is great stuff?


Harvesting chilli peppers




Chillies are quick to fruit and flower. How quick depends on the variety and on the temperature.
You can harvest the first chillis green once they reach full size. Or you wait until they turn red, or whatever colour they are supposed to turn.
If you plan to dry them for chili powder or flakes, you can even leave them on the bush until they shrivel up and dry.
To harvest fresh chillies cut or pull off the mature fruit while it's still shiny and plump.
If you pull it off, pull it upwards, exactly opposite to the direction in which it bends down. Then it should snap off at the joint, without breaking off the whole branch. Otherwise just snip them off.
The fruit will last in a sealed bag in the fridge for up to a week.
You can dry it in the dryer or sun dry it, you could also just string it up and hang it up to dry in an airy spot.
Pound it to flakes or put it in the blender to make cayenne pepper and chili powder.

Harvesting:
http://www.chillisgalore.co.uk/pages/growingtips.html
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Check your variety for the mature pod size and then as they reach full size, the pod should feel firm and look fairly glossy, if it still feels soft to the touch it is still immature. Pods can be picked early but they really need to be fully developed to develop their full flavour and heat. [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]The best time to pick chillis for drying is just when they start to change colour. This picking will stimulate the plant to produce more flowers and eventually chillis, and the picked chillis will continue to ripen as they dry, even totally green chillis may ripen to completely red after being picked.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Picked chillis will stay fresh for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator if kept in a sealed container. When using some of the hotter chillis they are best prepared wearing gloves when removing the seeds and inner pith, as any contact with the skin afterwards [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]will [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]cause burning when you touch your face or any other delicate parts, which is inevitable, take my word for it, washing with water afterwards will not remedy the situation.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Drying is the oldest and most common way to preserve chillis. Avoid any damaged, pitted or marked chillis as they may mould before drying and infect others. On a dry hot day spread the chillis out on a metal container to collect the heat, which will speed up the process, or string them up through their stalks and hang out. Here in the UK we have successfully dried out string of chillis in about 2 weeks, weather depending, if the weather turns out bad midway through gather them up and lay on a metal sheet on top of the boiler or hang in the airing cupboard . A quicker way is simply to buy a home dehydrator which will speed things up. Once completely dried store in airtight bags in the dark or remove the seeds and grind down either to a fine powder or coarse flakes.[/FONT]​

Saving Seeds:

[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Keep a couple of ripe chillis for next years crop. Hang the chillis in a dry atmosphere and then when dried out, collect all the seeds and seal in an envelope, label up and keep in a dry cool dark place for following year. Unless you have only grown one type of chilli in your greenhouse, or isolated a species, it is likely that most of your plants will have cross pollinated especially the annums, therefore the following year will not give a true variety. Germination may not be as high as bought treated seeds but enough seeds from a couple of plants should yield a satisfactory number of plants for the next season, if you're only growing for enjoyment and culinary uses, does it really matter if you get a slightly different cross pollinated strain. The degree of cross pollination, will be influenced by a number of factors, closeness of plants, amount of insects and if growing outside wind conditions, to ensure no cross pollination occurs[/FONT] plants must be completely isolated or grown winsome kind of mesh canopy.​

A word of warning

You don't need to eat chillies for them to burn you!
Just wait till you get Habanero chilli juice under your fingernails for the first time...
When cutting fresh chillies, make sure to scrub your hands well after. Don't touch your skin and especially don't touch your eyes! The hottest chillies can make you go blind. I am not kidding.
When working with dry chilli be VERY careful not to breathe in any powder. Also don't get it in your eyes.

http://www.chillies-down-under.com/support-files/growingchillies-complete.pdf
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
ANYONE ??? any here even grow chillis ???
TIPS?

60 + PLANTS WILL BE IN THIS GROW !
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
All About Growing Chillies In The Southern Hemisphere - AUSTRALIA



What To Grow Them In?
I’ll state up front that I don’t know anything about hydroponics, nor do I know anyone growing chillies using that technique. As a result it will not be covered here. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, there are two main points to be covered under this topic and they are; the medium to plant the seeds in and the container to hold the medium. With regard to the medium I absolutely recommend using a premium potting mix or seed raising mix.




One of the many different brands of seed rasing mix available in Australia. Other countries will have their own brands.

This is because these products are specifically designed with the following features; large particles to avoid compacting of the media which in turn inhibits both root penetration and drainage and, a nutrient profile that promotes vigorous root expansion and foliage growth.
You will inevitably come across people that tell you that the seedling needs to start off in the soil that it will eventually grow. That’s absolute rubbish, and if it was true would mean that there is no plant nursery industry as no one would buy anything in pots to take home. The fact is that the nursery industry across Australia turns over several billion dollars a year. Your garden soil is suitable for chillies that are well on the way to growing up, but is normally of a density, or contains diseases, that can inhibit root growth, damage, or even kill your new seedlings.
Now, as to containers, there is an enormous range and what is best for you is going to depend a little bit on how many plants you intend to grow and a whole lot on personal choice. Containers range from the individual Jiffy pots or blocks through the plastic 6 cells to large clay or plastic pots. We’ll examine each of these in more detail.
Jiffy pots and blocks are made from compressed sphagnum peat moss and wood pulp and uncompress and swell up once they are immersed in water. The seed can then be pressed into this swollen mass and, if kept moist, will germinate into a perfectly acceptable medium.



Jiffy blocks (left) and Jiffy pots (right) are a great medium for raising seedlings and eliminate the stress of transplanting.


A big advantage of these is that when the seedlings are hardy enough to be planted outside, you simply plant the pot into the garden soil. There’s no need top remove the seedling from one medium to the other thereby reducing the stress on the young plant. The downside is that at around AUD$0.20 each, if your going to be planting a lot of seeds, the cost will start to add up, and, of course, they are not re-useable. Now, the plastic six-pack cells are another option.




These six-pack cells are a cheap and simple container for starting off your seedlings.

You simply fill them with your seed propagation or potting mix, moisten, and put your seeds in each one using a dibble stick. Alternatively, three-quarter fill them then put a seed on top of each one and then put more mix to fill the cells. Either way is fine. The advantages of these are that they are cheap and re-useable which helps keep your costs down.
On the downside however, because they are small it is likely that you will need to transplant the seedlings into a larger pot before they are ready to go outside. The reason they need to be transferred is that the seedlings will rapidly become root-bound in the small cells and if they do, this affects the later performance and heath of the plant. It also stresses the seedling twice going from cell to pot to garden. If you are able to plant from cell to garden (as you may in the tropics) or if the plant is going to stay in the pot it gets transferred to, then these negative factors are not an issue for you. Congrats.
Now I’ll quickly look at pots. I’m not going to explore cost here as it obviously depends on your personal choice and there is an enormous range available. If you are intending to plant into cheap plastic pots and then transfer to the garden at a suitable age that’s a perfectly acceptable process. The only downside here is that if you live in the colder parts of the country, you will not be able to fit many pots on a heating mat as discussed below. However if you are able to keep the pots warm some other way (e.g. heated greenhouse, or keep them inside the house) then this is not an issue for you.
If you plant the seeds directly into the pot that you intend to grow them in that’s fine too – the negative issues are only those discussed in the previous two sentences. On the plus side, the seedling does not experience any of the stress of transplanting.
Finally, just for your information I’ll quickly go over the basics of what the commercial nurseries do. They use a more involved process where the seeds are germinated in large flat trays with no medium other than some water. After a couple of days, the delicate seedlings are transplanted into the six-pack cells that you are familiar with.
This maximizes the usage and saleability of the six-packs as there are no empty cells as a result of seeds not germinating. You’ve all seen the six-packs at the nursery where one of the seedlings has died and they just do not sell. So for the nursery to be able to avoid non-germination is worth the hassle.
Where Do I Grow Them?
You’ve got your seeds, raising mix and your pots. So, we now need to discuss where you intend to grow and subsequently acclimatise your seedlings. I will quickly cover what I do first and then go over a number of possibilities for you to be able to choose the approach that best suits you. When I do grow from seeds, which is not that often these days, I start off using a simple mini-greenhouse with a premium grade potting mix, making sure it’s kept moist. This sits outside during the day where it will get sufficient sunlight and comes in at night to avoid temperatures dropping to detrimental levels. As the seedlings nearly begin to touch the top of the clear plastic lid, about 3cm high,



These seedlings will be touching the top of the mini-greenhouse in 3 or 4 days.


I transfer them to larger pots and place the outdoors against a galvanised iron shed, facing north. In this location they get plenty of spring sunlight and warmth, which is also reflected back onto the plants by the shed. Very occasionally Perth will experience a cold night or two during this time in which case I will either move the plants inside for the night or to a sheltered area where the temperature drop will not be as extreme. Once I am happy that the plants are acclimatised and ready to go out on their own, I transfer then to the raised garden beds up at the back of my yard. The time frame for this varies and is as much about the future likelihood of damaging cold spells as it is about the readiness of the plant. This is usually around 3-6 weeks. I need to say here that I avoid planting seeds too early (i.e. before October) which negates my need for a glasshouse or coldframe as discussed below. I can do this because Perth has a long, warm Autumn which means I still get a extended harvest season that lasts well into April and frequently even May.
If you live north of Latitude 35 S there is a good chance you can grow your chillies all year round, particularly on near the coast. If you live more than 200km from the coast you will need to be careful of low temperatures during the winter/dry season.
If you live between Latitude 30 S and Latitude 35 S (approximately Perth, Durban, and Santiago) you can adopt my technique above, or start a little earlier and borrow from the advice below, which is for the colder regions.
Should you live south of Latitude 30 S then you will need to read the information below and should look at getting your seeds to germinate in July/August to ensure you get a long enough harvest season to make the effort worthwhile.
OK. First thing to consider is that you will most likely need some form of heating to provide the temperatures your seeds need to germinate. There are several options here that I will discuss. First option is an electric heat mat



This is a heated propagation tray with a temperature controller. These are the expensive option - they're much cheaper without the contoller, i.e. they run at a set temperature.

which come in both pre-set and adjustable temperature models You’ll pay AUD$50-60 for the former and about three times that for the adjustable models. In Australia you can get these at good nurseries and garden centres. The Bunnings store (in North America the equivalent would be Walmart) near me does not stock them however, you are also able to buy them online at retailers such as www.gardenexpress.com.au (please note that we have no association with gardenexpress.com.au and if you look around there are other website with the same equipment).
Friends that have these mats thoroughly recommend them. They have asked me to remind you though that once the seeds have germinated the heating mat needs to be placed somewhere that the seedlings will receive sunlight. Another option is one that is quite popular with keen gardeners and that is the coldframe.


This is a diagrammatic explanation of a coldframe. They are an extremely effective tool in helping you grow your chillies in colder areas.


The are an endless number of variations on the above example and they all work on the principle of solar heating of the medium in which you are germinating your seeds. Depending on how cold the climate is you may choose to open the up during the day and close them at night to retain the heat, or simply leave them closed most of the time to provide maximum warmth.
If your climate is extremely cold there are further steps you can take to heat the contents of your cold frame. One is to dig below the base of the frame and pack this with moist manure and straw and then cover this with a layer of loam and then place your potting mix/raising mix/cells/pots on top of this. Extra heat will then be provided by the decomposition of the underlying manure and you may be surprised by just how much heat this generates.
I recommend you keep a thermometer in the frame to make sure temperatures do not get too much above 35oC. Cooling can be achieved by opening the sashes, of course. In extremely cold climates you may wish to heat your coldframe electrically with a setup similar to that illustrated below. I do recommend you get a qualified electrician to set this up as the consequences of a faulty DIY job could be fatal (and I’d hate to lose a subscriber!). Once a coldframe is modified similar to the below diagram it is commonly called a hotbox.


The basic design components of a hotbox. Please get them installed by an electrician



The third and final option I’ll cover quickly is for those lucky enough to have a greenhouse. There is not a lot more to say regarding these that has not been covered in the previous three paragraphs. They are solar heated and this can be augmented electrically or by having some compost breaking down either under the floor or simply in a tub in one corner.
There are a couple of points to be make sure of with regard to a greenhouse and they are; that the greenhouse is in a position to get sufficient sunlight through the winter months and, that it does not get too hot in the warmer months. Many greenhouses have panels that open to all the latter issue to be addressed.
Lets Grow Them
This is it. Everything is ready now to plant your seeds. The best time to do this is approximately two months before you believe you will able to put your chilli plants outside to fend for themselves, i.e. after they are acclimatised.
Fill up your six-pack cells or pots with your preferred seed raising medium, remembering not to pack the medium down as this will inhibit root growth. If you are using a premium potting mix this will already have sufficient nutrients to support the initial growth of the seedling. However, if you are using any other medium there is a high probability that it does not have the nutrient profile to support your young seedlings.
So you will need to apply a liquid fertilizer, of your choice, diluted for seedlings as the directions on the packet instruct. For those of you in Australia I use Powerfeed ™ by the group that make Seasol ™ (I have no association with them whatsoever, though if they want to cut a deal I am open to that) - see them at www.seasol.com.au .

I use a hand operated spray bottle to apply the fertilizer however some people prefer to soak the filled containers in the liquid for a few minutes. It’s up to you really. Either way the germinating medium may compact a little here because of the liquid and this is not a problem however, if you need to top up the medium in some containers, do so. Now with the blunt end of a pencil, or something of that size, push a hole into the medium in each cell, approximately ½ cm deep. Drop 2 or 3 seeds into each hole and then push a little of the germinating medium over them to cover.
Depending on how many varieties you are planting you may want to label the cells or pots in some way so that you don’t need to try and remember which is which. If you keep a garden journal or almanac then you will no doubt be recording a number of data items regarding the planting. It is a good habit to have as the information you pick up over time can be significant for growing chillies in your particular area.
Now ensure that you keep the seeds moist and warm. Moist does not mean soggy, it means moist. Eventually you will see the seeds beginning to sprout. Let them grow for a week, keeping moist and warm and then, with a pair of scissors, cull all but the strongest seedling in each cell by cutting them off at the base. You want to do this to ensure that each generation of your chilli seeds is stronger and hardier than the last.
Ensure that wherever you have the seedlings growing gets sufficient light, heat and ventilation to ensure healthy growth. Fertilise your seedlings as per the directions on the packet/bottle – this is usually once a week.
It is incredibly important that you do not let the seedlings dry out. Seedlings that get stressed by dehydration early in their life seldom fully recover – you will end up with plants that have significantly decreased vigour and disease resistance. Any electrical heating that you may be using can be turned off after about the third week provided the seedlings will not be exposed to the risk of frost.
After around six weeks your chilli plants should be of good size and looking healthy, and ready for planting.


Acclimatising and Transplanting Your Seedlings
If you have ever had an aquarium you will know that if you purchase new fish from the store and take them home you do not simply tip them from the bag into you tank and assume that everything will be alright. The temperature shock and the pH shock would compound the stress of travel and most likely result in dead fish with in 24 hours.
Your seedlings are the same. They are accustomed to the warm, lightly ventilated, constantly watered nirvana that you have raised them in. Basically they are complete wimps and need to be toughened up before they can be transplanted out into the big bad world.
In more technical terms they have grown rapidly, producing large cells with thin walls due to a lack of stress and environmental demand affecting the plant. They need to become accustomed to day-long exposure to UV light, strong winds, heavy rain, larger temperature variations and sporadic dry conditions.
Many gardeners call this process of toughening, or acclimatising, hardening off.
Acclimatising

This is a process that takes place over two weeks once your seedlings reach an age of about six weeks. The first step is to slow down the growth of your plant by watering and feeding less, and if possible, keeping the seedlings at a slightly cooler temperature. This will begin the adjustment stage by preserving the plants’ energy for adjusting to the new outdoor conditions.
Begin acclimatising your seedlings to the garden by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. First expose them to filtered sun in the shade of a tree or in a sheltered spot protected from the wind and direct sun. Leave them for 3-4 hours and gradually increase the time spent outside by 1-2 hours per day until, bringing them back into shelter at night.
After a week or so, they should be able to withstand a full day of sun. While acclimatising the seedlings, watch them closely for signs of stress (the leaves may start turning yellow and drying out if exposed to too much sun). They should now also be able to stay out at night providing the temperature is not going to drop much below 10oC (50oF).
The science behind the process of acclimatizing your plants is a physiological one that adds carbohydrate reserves to the plant and produces additional cuticle on the leaves, reducing water loss. Practically, the process slows plant growth while acclimating the seedling to harsher conditions.
Transplanting
You’re seedlings are now ready to transplant and if you bought your seedlings from a nursery then this is the place for you to begin reading this document.
Before I get into the process of putting your plants in the ground I’d like to go over a couple of points about seedlings purchased from a nursery. The first is that these are frequently root-bound and if so, it will take longer for them to extend their roots into the garden soil, so they too are subject to wilting until they are established. Tease the roots our a little, being careful not to damage them, otherwise they will continue to circle around rather than spread out.
Also, give them a little extra attention once they’re in the ground.
The next point is that most nurseries indicate that their seedlings are acclimatised and ready for immediate transplanting. Instead of gambling and being disappointed (it was your money after all), harden them off yourself for at least a week first.
One more point to consider that, as a general rule of thumb, planting the same type of plant in the same spot year after year is asking for problems. The reason of this is that pests, because like their solanum cousins, tomatoes and eggplants, chillies are prone to root knot nematode. These are microscopic roundworms which attack the roots of the plant and cause it to wilt.
The two best practices for minimising this risk is to practice crop rotation or by adding significant amounts of organic matter to the soil at least annually.
The spacing between your plants depends on a number of factors, including the size of the varieties being grown. Smaller varieties, such as ornamentals, can be planted closer together and the there's usually less sunburn (light brown burnt areas) of the fruit because they're better shaded by the leaves. Some commercial chilli growers space their plants as closely as 10-15cm apart. Close spacing also helps minimize evaporation due to the thick canopy of leaves.
Now, to planting – generously water the plants to be transplanted the day before . This insures that the whole plant will be hydrated, leaves and all, when it's time to transplant, thereby helping it to cope with stress.
Plan to do your transplanting when it is overcast or during the cooler evening hours.
Water the plant immediately before digging or removing from its pot. Soak the root ball so that the soil will adhere to the roots, when it is dug from the garden.
Never leave the roots exposed to sun, heat or wind. This is a risk if you remove all plants from their pots and simply lay them down, planting one after the other. It’s much better to remove them from the pots/cells just prior to planting. Water the hole before you place the transplant into it. Place the transplant into the hole and fill it halfway with water. Allow the water to settle the soil around the roots and then finish filling the hole.
Lightly firm the soil around the transplant and again, water the whole plant, leaves and all. If possible, shield the new transplant from direct sunlight for 1-2 weeks, by cutting the bottom out of an old plastic pot roughly the same height as the seedling and place this over it. This will help the plant get over the shock by cutting down the direct light and also reducing evaporation. An extra plus is that it protects the plant from getting snapped off in strong winds.
Check the plant daily for the first couple of weeks. Transplants will need watering every day, if not more. If it is wilting, water the plant. Depending on the weather and the plant, you may need to water twice a day until it becomes established. The larger the plant and/or the less roots to top growth ratio, the more water will be needed.
All of this may seem extreme, but the shock of being uprooted is stressful to plants anytime of year. In the heat of summer, this extra precaution can make the difference between keeping and losing your transplants.

Problems, Pests and Diseases
Sucking Pests
The most common sucking pests that can attack your chillies are aphids, mealy bugs, scales and mites. These pests appear on the leaves, stems and fruit in clusters and feed on the sweet sap by inserting a needle-like sucking tube into the plant and drawing out the juice. After the sap has been used by the insects, it is excreted as honeydew, which forms the base on which a black fungus grows. This fungus is known as sooty mould and its presence reduces photosynthesis and discolours affected fruit.
Honeydew is used as a food source by ants, which will actively transport the insects (aphids, mealybugs and scales) to position them on the plant (‘farm’ them). Ants may spread sapsucker infestations between plants via underground tunnels. As aphids, mealybugs, scales and mites congregate in hidden places or on the lower leaf surface, they may initially not be obvious. Affected plants appear water-stressed, and leaves turn yellow and fall. In some cases leaves and flowers curl up and wilt.




Aphids on a Grevillea flower. Notice the stems beginning to wilt



A close up photograph of a mealybug. True size is approximately 1mm.


Scale beginning to build up on a citrus leaf. As this get worse the leaf will begin to wilt and then die.




A severe mite infestation. As mites are related to spiders they produce these webs.


There are a number of chemicals that you can use to get rid of these parasites however, I am not going to go into these as they are a specialized field and fairly toxic. I don’t like them. What I use is a mixture called White Oil which is basically a petroleum based oil emulsion and works on all three pests by covering them in oil and suffocating them. You can buy it from nurseries and garden stores and is simply mixed with water and sprayed on. The below is a recipe for making your own at home.

  • Home Made White Oil
    It is simple to make your own white oil from vegetable oil (in contrast to petroleum oil) and liquid soap. Prepare the concentrate using the proportions below. Store in a suitably labelled container, making sure to include the dilution instructions on the label for quick reference.







    Ingredients:
    • ½ cup dishwashing detergent
    • ½ litre of vegetable oil
    In your food processor, blend the vegetable oil with the dishwashing detergent they’re until well mixed. This is your concentrate and can be stored in any sort of container, though be sure to label it and include the dilution rate. This concentrate will separate over time, however all you need to do is give it a good shake just before you use it.
    To prepare the concentrate for use, dilute 1 tablespoon in a litre of water, mix it well and spray the pest as well as both sides of the foliage thoroughly.
    It’s important that you stick to this dilution rate, because you can burn the foliage if it’s too strong. Also, don’t apply it in hot weather and avoid using it on plants with hairy/furry foliage as well as ferns, palms and cycads as this can also cause leaf burn.
Regular applications of this easy to make oil based spray will help protect your plants from many common pests found in the garden. Simply spray thoroughly over both sides of the foliage and onto the offending pest. This spray can be used as often as required.


Chewing Pests
In this category I am basically talking about caterpillars, snails, and slugs. These pests are relentless and are not something that you can ignore. I have had 24 seedlings wiped out in one night by snails because I neglected to put out any pellets on the day I planted them. The next day there were only a few 1cm high stems sticking out of the ground – I’d wasted my time because I forgot to do a 1 minute task and when I thought of it that night, decided that it could wait until tomorrow. Dumb.
OK, for snails and slugs I recommend scattering a few snail pellets around, once a week until the plants are large enough not to be wiped out easily.


Snails dying around a pile of snail pellets (blue). This is not my photograph and in my opinion far too pellets have been used here.

I am usually against using toxic, non-natural chemicals on or around things I intend to eat however, I am also a realist – use the pellets, just use them sparingly. It doesn’t take many.
You can go totally safe if you want and use traps that use beer or some other bait, I think they’re great, I just don’t have the time to maintain them.
The caterpillars are not so easy. What I find is the best technique for me is to check the plants on the weekend and once during the week. If there are any caterpillars to be see I spray the plants with a pyrethrum spray.







An example of pyrethrum spray available in Australia.
For those that aren’t familiar with it, pyrethrum is a natural insecticide derived from a variety of daisy and is, I believe, the ideal solution. It kill insects through contact or ingestion, has low toxicity to mammals and has a short residual life, i.e. it biodegrades over several days.
Fungal Pests
The main fungus problem that affects chillies is black sooty mould, which only occurs when there are other problems present as discussed above in Sucking Pests. If you have black sooty mould then you need treat the cause as discussed in that section.



Black sooty mould caused by the presence of the scale on this citrus leaf.


Other Problems
Chillies like a warm, sunny spot, well drained soil and regular watering during dry weather. Over fertilising can lead to excessive foliage and fewer fruit, just like with tomatoes.
Also, as in tomatoes, chillies are prone to blossom end rot. This is caused by a calcium deficiency and also irregular watering and can easily be prevented simply by watering regularly and applying a bit of a dressing of dolomite lime.


Mild banana chillies displaying blossom end rot. While this is the result of a calcium deficiency, it is usually caused by insufficient water being available to transport the calcium to, and through, the plant.

ref:
http://www.chillies-down-under.com/growing-chillies-pt3.html
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
wow your serious about this chilli thing arent ya i skimmed it fuck it s long lol :)

ma girl says nice thread BTW....
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
ABOUT TO PURCHASE !

NEW walk-in garden greenhouse AU $149.00
2M (6'6") inside height.







Ideal personal home greenhouse !


Set up for winter and pack away in the warmer months if needed !!

This great greenhouse is just perfect for the avid gardener, grow just what you like in wider climate ranges.

The steel frame and canopy pack away very compact for storage and require no tools to put together.

The entrance has dual zips and can be tied up for easy access.
Six side windows with mesh screens lock down with velcro or can be tied up to hold open.


* Size: 2.1m(w) x 3.5m(L), waterproof
* Overall height: 2m
* Powder-Coated steel frame, White.

Just what every gardener needs.
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
wow your serious about this chilli thing arent ya i skimmed it fuck it s long lol :)

ma girl says nice thread BTW....
lol...YEP LONG AS! it has turned into a project that has turned into little business idea so, I thought I might as well through up my research, considering i was chatting about it !

I do like to give things a go take a bit of risk.... "you know" !!

This is VERY VIABLE as a business..... CHEAP & EASY as` to set up, and getting some practise running a seedbank;)..

I can run alot of hormones too, getting experience with those...etc etc
And it ties in with new course.....

THANX JEZ`ers missis...!:bigjoint:
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
is there one thatz more see thrue theyre cool idea but id want a shade house not one of them but thats just me..

anyhoo im off bro keep up the good work hope this turns out well for ya :)
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
It cost me $149 + $50 shipping = 200 total!
after asking questions found that the last one ONLY had the one skin!
This one has TWO - shade and clear..

  • Brand new in factory box
  • Double zippered front door and 6 exhaust vent for cross ventilation and venting on hot days
  • High quality, heavy-duty powder coated steel framework
  • Heavy-duty transparent reinforced polyethylene roof and wall material for maximum solar performance
  • Easy to set up, portable
  • ISO 9001:2000 standard certified manufacturer
ConditionBrand newModel#ML-GM1303
Size3.5m X 2m X 2m (12' L x 7' W x 7' H)
Cover MaterialHeavy duty transparent Polyethylene w/green leno shade cover.
Frame Material White powder coated steel
Cover color Clear/Green
Package1 box
Packaging Weight17kg
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
MY LAYOUT:
THE GREEN HOUSE Above for seedlings/germ...
Will also lay down around 15-20 square meters of weed mat or White hydro plastic. Outdoors in direct sunlight alll day !
Full irragation in way of water drippers, will foila and hand feed FERTZ/NUTES..

Should give me plenty of room....
ALL VARITIES to go in BIG arse pots ..... chillis are shallow root so this is fine !
PHOTOS SOON OF SETUP !

any other suggestions??
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
Im going to call it ;
fire seeds or atomic seeds ?
Give me some names you wonderful stoners !
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
spitfire seeds

sorry but im off to bed now ad i figure if i incorporate the name you made ya cant complain

peace bro :)
 

paintsprayer71

Well-Known Member
great post!! you got me all excited for my garden this year, i have real sandy soil and my peppers love it, i grew haberneros and super chilis last year and had wonderful results....i dryed my haberneros in a dehydrator and crushed them using a mortar and pestle....cough cough. so are you going to make any of your seeds avabile? i have a limited selection where i live i was lucky to get my hands on the haberneo, im hoping the 4 bushes i planted come back this year, as i understand they are prennial, and i would like to get my hands on some other "super-hot" virities, that you seem to favor, as do i!! chili is good medicine.or do you have a source that has good pepper seeds??please let me know i live in iowa in the states and its seed sowing time.....indoors of course..thanks!
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
great post!! you got me all excited for my garden this year, i have real sandy soil and my peppers love it, i grew haberneros and super chilis last year and had wonderful results....i dryed my haberneros in a dehydrator and crushed them using a mortar and pestle....cough cough. so are you going to make any of your seeds avabile? i have a limited selection where i live i was lucky to get my hands on the haberneo, im hoping the 4 bushes i planted come back this year, as i understand they are prennial, and i would like to get my hands on some other "super-hot" virities, that you seem to favor, as do i!! chili is good medicine.or do you have a source that has good pepper seeds??please let me know i live in iowa in the states and its seed sowing time.....indoors of course..thanks!

iM ALWAYS EXCITED..I run 3 types of plant mainly ....MJ, chillis, BONSI ! BUT i own 1 acre of gardens ! that takes me about 6hrs to mow witha ride on !
Chocolate haberneo CHILLI i just got!!! Im going to crush that up, it should be brown ! My plan is to make MIXED dry chilli powders as well! ...
bHUT`S ARE SO BAD, they suggest googles and gloves when crushing in pestle&mortor.. LOL TOXIC ! it will make you blind if you get in your eyes !!!!!!

http://www.chillifarm.com/chilli_pepper_seeds/default.asp
and you have access to greats chilli bank in the world !!!!! - New Mexico's university!!!!!!!!

this guy is in California..! But dose not seem to have the record holder!
Yes I will be makeing all varities avalible ! (so keep in touch)
its hard to send seeds as you know ! but will give it ago once Im up and runing !
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
LAST TECH THREAD FOR INFO ! (do rest in links, this is important though )

Chilli Species: Capsicum terminology can be confusing. Pepper, chili, chile, chilli and capsicum are used interchangeably to describe the plants the pods the cooking of the genus Capsicum. I have chosen to use chilli throughout this site so I don't want any protesting from Southwest and Latin America where you would prefer 'chile,' or 'pepper' as would probably be used in the States.

Here is a quick guide to the naming. The genus is Capsicum from the Greek kapto, 'to bite' and then there are five species:
  • annum, meaning "annual," which is an incorrect designation, include most of the common types like Nu Mex, Jalapeño, Belsl and Waxes.
  • baccatum, meaning "berrylike," which consist of the South American chillis known as ajís.
  • chinense, meaning "from China," which is also an incorrect designation, this species include the habanero's.
  • frutescens, meaning "shrubby or bushy," includes the Tabasco's .
  • pubescens, meaning "hairy," and includes the rocotos.
Capsicum annum is the most extensively cultivated throughout the world and because it cross pollinates so easily there are probably thousands of varieties existing. Annums are really divided into two catagories: sweet (or mild) and hot. Too many leaf variations to describe but flower corollas are white with no spots. Popular annums include:
  • Ancho, Anaheim
  • Big Bertha, Bolivian Rainbow,
  • Cayenne, Cherry Bomb, Cayenne, Cubanelle, Chimayó, Chiltepin
  • Fresno, Fiesta, Firecracker
  • Goat Horn
  • Hungarian Yellow Wax
  • Jalapeño, Jaloro
  • Nu Mex
  • Mulato, Mirasol
  • Peter Pepper, Peruvian Purple, Pasilla, Piemento. Poblano
  • Spur, Super Chili, Santa Fe Grande, Sweet Banana
  • Thai Hot
Capsicum baccatum originated in Peru or Bolivia and are now found throughout South America. The plants are tall up to five foot with large dark green leaves. This species is distinguished from the other species by the flower corollas being white with distinctive dark green or brown spots, and anthers being yellow or tan. Fruity flavour being used in salsas or dried and ground into powders. Types include:
  • Ají
Capsicum chinense is often referred to as Habanero but there are hundreds of similar pod types. Originating from the Amazon into the Caribbean and then spreading into Central and South America. Growing from 1 to 5 feet high with pale to medium green large and wrinkled leaves. Flowers have white to greenish corollas and purple anthers and filaments. Slow growers with a long season. Most Countries have their own name for the chinense
  • Habanero (Yucatán)
  • Congo Pepper (Trinidad)
  • Goat pepper (Bahamas)
  • Scotch Bonnet (Jamaica)
Capsicum frutescens coming from the Amazon basin in Brazil and the Mexican city of Tabasco, hence the most recognizable one being the Tabasco. Now finding their way to India and the Far East where they are called bird pepper. Bushy type of plant growing to 4 feet, with smooth oval leaves up to 2.5 inches. Flowers have greenish white corollas with no spots and blue anthers, erect pods up to 1.5 inches long. Makes good pot plants.
  • Tabasco
Capsicum pubescens originates in Bolivia, now being cultivated from the Andes to Mexico and Central America. The common name for this species is rocoto. Sprawling plant up to 4 feet high and two foot wide with oval light to dark green leaves being up to 3 inches long and very hairy. Flowers have purple corollas, purple anthers and stand erect above the leaves. Hardy plants with a long growing season. As the pods are so fleshy they are usually eaten fresh in salsas or stuffed but they are very hot.
  • Manzano Amerillo & Manzanoi Rojo
  • Rocoto
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
How about;

`BHUT CHILLI` Company Australia.:fire:
T/a = SPITFIRE seeds.:fire:

I am a long way off nameing....... But want some ideas !
 
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