Club 600 Breeding Showcase

duchieman

Well-Known Member
Well, I like a lot of new guys around here suffer from Hermiphobia and the other day I noticed my revegged clone from a bag seed mother was full of bananas throughout her buds, nowhere else. So anyway, I have her revegged offspring flowering in the tent along with my premium plant who hasn't shown sex yet so I put her back in the tent to finish off. I've been doing some reading but I'm wondering the difference between a flower from a male plant and that of a hermie, and how pollen and pollination may differ. Also, what may have caused it to hermie? Was it stress or genetics and is there a way to find out? Something was explained to me about germinating the seeds and seeing if you have all female or a mix, but I didn't understand what that determined. I basically would like to take advantage of the offspring down the road sometime when I can play around with breeding and I'm just trying to get a grasp of what's going on, particularly with regular vs feminized.

I know it's a broad question and I hope it doesn't require an essay type answer, but any nutshell answer or links to get me and other RIU'ers on the right road would be great !

Thanks, Duchie

Sorry forgot to mention she was day 47 of 12/12 when I noticed
 

MT Marijuana

Active Member
DST Nice man they look sexy! I am also a lil curious about douchies question. I had some random hermie pollen floating around my room last grow and ended up growing out some of the seeds for shits and giggles. I started a dozen or so, only 1 didn't sprout. I kept the 4 prettiest fastest growing, one of which started hermi at week 2 (my fav) she got tossed out. the others are pretty good looking with one standout that may get an extended stay in the garden. Sensi Star X ??hermie
IMG_1522.jpg
 

DST

Well-Known Member
Hi Duchieman, well it is a broad answer but one I think that is actually straight forward. Is it worthwhile growing seeds from a hermied plant I guess. And a lot of people will say no, but in my experience it totally can be.

I think the general concensus is that stress leads to hermaphroditic tendencies, I agree but really only in the very worse case scenarios. My experience from herm pollen is that if it pollenates another herm plant or itself then the seeds can still be used but will also always show herm signs (not to say that you can't use them if you know what you are doing) The pollen from a herm plant used on another plant without these tendencies is often producing reasonably good females. I have never had a male from this method. I am not heavily down on the pollen from a herm plant but due to the plant being mainly female it does not seem to produce regular pollen.
A herm plant if kept under a watchfull eye up to the 4th week of flower should not cause problems.

I think if your plant has hermed it is because it has a tendency to herm, not due to environmental conditions, unless every single plant in your tent/set up herms it would not make sense to blame environmental reasons. I think genetics. I fyou know you are getting a plant with this tendency, then you can watch out and enjoy the results. It's when it's put out as something else that starts causing problems. I think a lot of breeder are out there selling feminized seeds, that are basically herm...no fingers pointed.

Hope that helps. I hope to get more into the science as I progress.

Peace,

DST

Well, I like a lot of new guys around here suffer from Hermiphobia and the other day I noticed my revegged clone from a bag seed mother was full of bananas throughout her buds, nowhere else. So anyway, I have her revegged offspring flowering in the tent along with my premium plant who hasn't shown sex yet so I put her back in the tent to finish off. I've been doing some reading but I'm wondering the difference between a flower from a male plant and that of a hermie, and how pollen and pollination may differ. Also, what may have caused it to hermie? Was it stress or genetics and is there a way to find out? Something was explained to me about germinating the seeds and seeing if you have all female or a mix, but I didn't understand what that determined. I basically would like to take advantage of the offspring down the road sometime when I can play around with breeding and I'm just trying to get a grasp of what's going on, particularly with regular vs feminized.

I know it's a broad question and I hope it doesn't require an essay type answer, but any nutshell answer or links to get me and other RIU'ers on the right road would be great !

Thanks, Duchie

Sorry forgot to mention she was day 47 of 12/12 when I noticed
 

DST

Well-Known Member
ITs a shame you threw your fave out. Don't be to hasty on doing things like that. I have experienced plants do this, ride it through with them, clone them and further down the line the herm traits have gone. Normally 1st 2nd clone down and you have got a fairly stable clone breed.
Peace,

DST

DST Nice man they look sexy! I am also a lil curious about douchies question. I had some random hermie pollen floating around my room last grow and ended up growing out some of the seeds for shits and giggles. I started a dozen or so, only 1 didn't sprout. I kept the 4 prettiest fastest growing, one of which started hermi at week 2 (my fav) she got tossed out. the others are pretty good looking with one standout that may get an extended stay in the garden. Sensi Star X ??hermie
View attachment 1324589
 

duchieman

Well-Known Member
Hi Duchieman, well it is a broad answer but one I think that is actually straight forward. Is it worthwhile growing seeds from a hermied plant I guess. And a lot of people will say no, but in my experience it totally can be.

I think the general concensus is that stress leads to hermaphroditic tendencies, I agree but really only in the very worse case scenarios. My experience from herm pollen is that if it pollenates another herm plant or itself then the seeds can still be used but will also always show herm signs (not to say that you can't use them if you know what you are doing) The pollen from a herm plant used on another plant without these tendencies is often producing reasonably good females. I have never had a male from this method. I am not heavily down on the pollen from a herm plant but due to the plant being mainly female it does not seem to produce regular pollen.
A herm plant if kept under a watchfull eye up to the 4th week of flower should not cause problems.

I think if your plant has hermed it is because it has a tendency to herm, not due to environmental conditions, unless every single plant in your tent/set up herms it would not make sense to blame environmental reasons. I think genetics. I fyou know you are getting a plant with this tendency, then you can watch out and enjoy the results. It's when it's put out as something else that starts causing problems. I think a lot of breeder are out there selling feminized seeds, that are basically herm...no fingers pointed.

Hope that helps. I hope to get more into the science as I progress.

Peace,

DST
That's awesome Bro! I think I'm getting it. So in my situation, in my flower room, I have this hermied female mother and her cloned offspring, as well as my Jackhammer, which should not have these tendencies particularly because they are supposed to be regular seeds and not femmed. So, if she pollinates herself or her flowering daughter and either of them produce seeds they will/may carry hermie traits. But should my Jackhammer turn out female, and should she get pollinated by this hermied female, then I would or could have femmed seeds of that new cross? Am I even close? :lol:

And thanks DST again for taking the time. :peace:
 

mr west

Well-Known Member
I started this thre to show case some of the breeding thats been going on in the "club 600" thred.

Ill kick off with a few of my creations. Currently growing some deep purple x psychosis x livers and some deep purple x psychosis x jack the ripper. I have just planted some deep purple x psychosis (f2) and some engineers dream ( deep purple x querkle x casey jones) Also i have a deep purple x psychosis x livers male which im leaving in my tent with a a dpp x liver and 2 dpp x jack the ripper ( deep ripper) and two dog kush's.

this is the dpp x livers at 4 weeks 12.

this is the dpp x jack the ripper.

this is the dpp x livers male and female lol the lovely couple.

and the yins 3 x engineers dream ( dpq x casey jones) and 3 x deep psychosis ( deep purple x psychosis) the engineers dream was designed by our very own club 600 lord and master "DST"
The DOG is basically a strain that has come from a female Headband that has hermied and developed male flowers half way through the flowering period. One of the unplucked males flowers was used to germinate an OG Kush female and provided a number of seeds that have all turned out feminized. The strain does produce, like the parent, some plants that throw out male pods. This is reasonably controllable and once removed tend not to return. Further tests are being done on the clone of one of the particular pheno's that produced the male pods to see if cloning removes this trait which it has shown to do in the parent Headband.

There appears to be two different phenotypes on the whole, one providing a longer stretching plant, and the other a shorter more tightly compact plant. Both have dark green fan leaves showing indica dominant traits, with extremely tight compact buds that glisten with resinous trichomes. The end result producing a weed that delivers nostalgic smells and tastes of bygone era's, as well as having the right power and ability to meet the needs of the modern day medical marijuana user.

The two parents, like the original Chemdawg strain of the early 90's,had been found in bags of weed that were purchased in a well known coffeeshop in Amsterdam,The Grey Area. Over the last few years the seeds have been grown out to produce the parents of the DOG.

Flowering period 9 weeks, for best results leave until mid week 9 at least.

2 phenos, both grow fairly large. One takes on the more compactness of the Headband while the other is a more stretchy plant, with a similar viney branch structure to the OG Kush. the latter being a fairly reasonable yielder and good plant for training. Takes well to pretty much most techniques, fimming, lst, supercropping. A combination will bring you a crazy plant with compact calyxes that foxtail around week 7 and are encrusted with trichomes. Combination of dark greens, lime, silvery tones, with light brown hairs on curing.

At first smell the deep spicy cumin tones of the Headband come through, reminding some of the unpleasant tone of an unwashed armpit. The complexity of the smells deepens with a deep chemical piney smell upon pressure to the calyx or while tearing the bud open.

A draw of an unlit joint brings sweetness, aniseed and liquorice flavours. With fire to the jay an immediate old school flavour is detected, a sweet herbal smell, organic grown DOG produces a very smooth smoke to the throat, leaving a slight gentle tingle over the tongue and nose on exhale. the exhale retains the sweetness and leaves a morish taste on the pallet with the desire for more. The tingle leaves a slightly thick resinous feeling in the back of the throat. You know you have taken a draw that is going to hit you soon. A wine taster would class this as having a "Long Finish".

The effect can be felt in the lower leg muscles, calf's and through the thighs. Good for people on their feet all day and needing to relax those muscles.

Half way through the joint I had a nice warm feeling in my cranium as well as the creeping body and muscle effects. the joint retains its strong morish flavour which is always a good sign of a nice weed.

After 30 minutes I am still as high as when I first had the joint. The urge is there for another even though it's not needed, I still have a nice Headband effect around my cranium, and I am feeling relaxed.

Enjoy some of the pics of the DOG.








Peace, DST

:peace::joint:

https://www.rollitup.org/members/dst-168272/albums/2010-13392/1226351-img-8553/
BX2 Cheese "Fred Wests Mature Cheese"

The origins of this Cheese strain are rooted in the Exodus Cheese storyline. As a clone only strain a group of breeders (who after researching their company, no longer seem to be trading at this moment,) decided to experiment in getting seeds from the famous Exodus Cheese clone only strain. The company known as "Dank Dairy" came up with two sets of seeds, the BX1, and the BX2, backcross 1, and backcross 2. I was lucky enough to be gifted some of these seeds by someone very close to our cheesey hearts. Unfortunately the BX1's that I tried did not germinate, but several of the BX2's did, giving me 2 Males and 1 Female. The Female is the result pictured below that has been cloned on a couple of times now over the year. The males were grown and harvested for their pollen. Male1 and Male2 have been kept in cryogenic state, well in the Freezer actually, and after drying and using the pollen there are resulting F2 seeds from both. Suitable pheno's will be selected from those seeds for further development of regular BX2 Cheese seeds.

As far as the parents are concerned, we know the Exodus is involved, how regular seeds where created is not 100% clear.

The Female BX2 shows very similar traits to the Exodus Cheese with it's vine like structure, double serrated leaves, and heavy resinous towering flowers. With a vigorous growth it also goes through fan leaves, but still continues to create large flowers. It seems to be able to handle pretty much what you can throw at it in nutes, and had no complaints with taking on more P+K through the flowering period. The buds also foxtail and the flowers expand in all directions. The Cheese is not going to win you any beauty contest however will knock out most, if not all competitors in the smell and taste department.

The intensity of the smell of the BX2 far outweighs any other grass I have smelt of late, and is a much more intense smell than the Big Buddha Cheese from what I have seen. It is also not a heavy indica but more of a sativa high, but exhibits traits of both.

When you open the jar it reminds me of the clothes I wore when delivering milk as a teenager. A rancid milk smell that when warmed produced a sickly off creamy waft. For people not au faix with this and have perhaps had the pleasure of a market in the Far East, the smell omitted by Durian fruit is very comparable. Again, over ripe creamy fruit.

I think for an ultimate taste, smell and effect, taking this to 10 weeks of flowering is ideal. You can easily take it earlier though.

The buds are a dark lime green colour with slightly reddish pinky hairs on the cure. When broken the buds and calyxes just stick to your fingers so grinders are advised. The ground up bud brings more of a chemical fuelly flavour, layered with a light nail varnish undertone and retaining that soury milk/cream flavour. A very complex smelling bud even though it is so powerful. Everyone has different smell experiences, but take time and this will give you more than just Cheesiness.

The unlit joint, like a typical Kush joint has a sharp aniseed sweetness to it, layered with the creaminess. With fire to the joint within a few moments of smoking I am getting butterflies in my stomach and the smoke is as expected, a sweet old school taste on the pallet. Half way through the joint and the high is in my head big time. Every time I smoke I get the sensation of tiny bubbles rising through the front of my face, like it was being carbonised. A very nice smoking experience indeed.
Half an hour since I finished and I am still as stoned as I was when I started with the cheese. It definitely seems to make the front of your face feel funny, but I also feel like having a good old stretch now and after an hour I can feel the narcotic effects more now that the intense face rush has died down. All in all quite a nice trip for an hour and still carrying the buzz. I could easily go without a smoke for a good while longer although I feel like if I had another Cheese joint then I would probably be even higher than I was when I finished the first joint, which tells me it has a nice ceiling height to the buzz as well.

Truly a beautiful weed possessing a psychedelic high with an underlying narcotic effect. Not to forget, it SMELLS incredible!

Enjoy some pics of the BX2 Cheese














The BX2 is an excellent plant to SCROG, and also clones extremely well. Roots within a few days.

Peace,

DST
The Deep Purple Querkle is the brainchild of Mr West. He loved both of, Subcools strains so much he decided he wanted to morph them together and we now have the DPQ. Further crossing has brought us to the DPQ F2's. Credit must go to Subcool for selecting the initial lovely strains to bring onto the market. The DPQ produces extremely tight and resinous flowers, The calyxes are extremely large and 2 phenos have been seen so far, one with a more grape cluster calyx effect, and the other with fantastic pine tree peaked buds with the sugar leafs concentrated on the lower section of the flower. The amount of trichomes that are produced in this cross are amazing, the buds just glisten!

The vegging DPQ's produce light green plants with long cascading jaggy fan leaves and tight nodes. It is definitely a stout plant and I think would be excellent for a sea of green SOG. Into flowering the plant takes on a darker more sinister look and the flowers start to pile on these artichoke shaped calyxes. The trichome production is incredible and makes this a real shining diamond.

Smells are like Fruit Candy combined with a sugary sourness more like a Sour Candy Sweet.....sour cola bottles.

The buds are awash with a spectrum of different shades of green from light green through to dark lime, the growing buds almost take on a dreamy blue colour, with the trichomes forming a glistening sea of amber gold colours across the calyxes when cured. The cured hair is a more light orangey colour that is generally overshadowed by the vast amount of trichomes. The nugs on the DPQ form small but solid clusters.

The bag combines the fruity and sour smell at a stand off distance, and when broken and ground the delightful sweet fruity candy smell takes over. The candy sweetness really comes through on a drag of an unlit joint.

With fire to the joint a more sour full flavour comes through. Not the smoothest smokes, what I would term, "a bit of a breath taker", but certainly not full on removal of breath. Some people like this effect that I know with the desire to feel that dunt on the back of the throat.

Straight away it's an uplifting high and I feel like some giant is trying to pull my head skywards whilst my body is firmly rooted to the ground. This is a FULL HEAD BUZZ for sure.

The initial dunt from the smoke wears off a little and as your lungs and throat get use to it the taste of the joint starts to really come out itself. The combination of the fruit and sour develops into a joint that delivers a delicious flavour that the more advanced smoker will love

Due to the raciness of the high it can quite easily make you loose track of time in a nicer place not far from where you are. Although when you are there your brain will be slightly more scatty, but then you don't have as much to worry about so it's really no problem at all. What's seems like 5 minutes from 4:20 is actually an hour, so if you are doing anything, make sure you do it at 12 times the speed.

Enjoy the pics of the DPQ F2's







Plants Making love..they also need their privacy:hump:








Peace out,:peace::mrgreen:

DST
Page bump>>>>>>>>>>>>:joint:
 

1badmasonman

Well-Known Member
Impressive work fellas. Loving all the new varieties. Cant wait to contribute 1 or 2 myself someday.

I do have a question for you guys. What is the lingo behind the F1 F2 im assuming it a generational matter but does it always start of with f and so on??

1BMM
 

MT Marijuana

Active Member
DST - I Cloned all of the crosses so I will be growing it out and cloning and flowering it. It was the fastest rooting and fastest growing and it's buds at 2 wks were much more far along than other I have. I have had similar results as you with the original plant being hermie and then other clones down the road being more stable and I hope that's the case with this one. Virorous Grower and rooter i just hope she matures or she'll have to pack her bags for good :)
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
Impressive work fellas. Loving all the new varieties. Cant wait to contribute 1 or 2 myself someday.

I do have a question for you guys. What is the lingo behind the F1 F2 im assuming it a generational matter but does it always start of with f and so on??

1BMM
Improving Alfalfa Yield Using Unimproved Germplasm​
Xuehui Li, graduate student
Charles Brummer, associate professor
Department of Agronomy​
Introduction​
Most germplasm used in alfalfa cultivars in the
north central region of the United States is
purple flowered and referred to as sativa.
Yellow-flowered (falcata) alfalfa is an
unadapted germplasm that has made few
contributions to the current cultivars. However,
our previous research has shown that sativafalcata
crosses (SFC) produce greater yield than
sativa-sativa crosses (SSC). This indicates that
falcata has favorable genes for yield and that the
use of falcata may help improve yield in new
cultivars.
Falcata germplasm can be used to improve yield
in two ways. The first method is to cross elite
sativa and unimproved falcata populations first,
and then to conduct recurrent selection in the
hybrid population to develop a cultivar. The
second method is to conduct recurrent selection
in unimproved falcata populations first, and then
cross elite sativa and improved falcata
populations to produce population hybrid
cultivars.
Advanced generations beyond the F1 hybrids
typically show yield declines. However, because
sativa and falcata are actually different
subspecies that express differences in
morphology, growth habit, and so forth, the later
generations of SFC may “break down” and
show greater yield reductions than observed for
SSC due to the distant genetic backgrounds of
the subspecies. If this is possible, then the first
method would not be a good choice to improve
yield.
The aim of this study was to test whether
advanced generations of F1 SFC hybrids show
greater yield reductions than F1 SSC hybrids.​
Materials and Methods​
We produced three generations of plants. The
F1 hybrids were produced by crossing
individual plants of sativa and falcata or sativa
and sativa. The F2 generation was formed by
intercrossing the F1 hybrids from one paired
cross; the S1 generation was formed by selffertilizing
F1 individuals. The F1, F2, and S1
generations for 4 SFC and 4 SSC were planted
with three replications in August, 2003, at two
locations (Ames and Nashua, IA). Each entry
was planted in one-row plots, 3 m long and
seeded at a rate of 75 seeds/plot. Plots were
spaced 60 cm apart. Harvests for biomass were
taken four times at both locations in 2004 and
2005. The yearly dry biomass of each plot (YB)
was the sum of the whole plot dry biomass of
the four harvests each year. Stands were scored
during the first week after each harvest, and the
mean stand score for each plot (MS) was the
average of the stand score of the four harvests
each year. The yearly dry biomass per plot (total
yield) was calculated by dividing YB by MS to
eliminate yield differences due to the stand.
F2 or S1 depression was measured as the
deviation of F2 or S1 from the F1 hybrid total
yield. Furthermore, the mean depression for
each cross type (SSC and SFC) was calculated,
and the significance levels were evaluated using
an LSD.​
Results and Discussion​
In all cases, the F1 yielded more than either the
F2 or S1 generations, as expected. However, the
yield decline in SFC was greater than that of
SSC in both locations in 2005 (Table 1). This
result indicates that the later generations of SFC​
probably “break down” more severely than
 

DST

Well-Known Member
Falcatta being a grass or grazing seed is probably a reasonable comparison when looking at MJ. Similar explanations lie when choosing to cross breed MJ. i.e better hybrids are obtained when crossing a sativa with an indica for example. F1 F2 are indeed generation of seeds. S1 being selfed first generation seeds as far as I am aware.
 

Saerimmner

Well-Known Member
ive got a question for whoever wouldnt mind answering it, when breeding what traits come from the mother and which from the father? i.e.leaf colour/shape, pheno,height etc etc as ive promised the g/f i will make her her own strain/cross/whatever you wanna call it so need to start researching how im going to achieve it as she wants a rather particular colourscheme lol
 

DST

Well-Known Member
For something like that it really is a numbers game imo. There are 10 chromozones to mix between the male and female when pollination occurs. X and Y chromosones come into play to determine sex, although outside factors are also thought to exist in sex determination. The 10 male chromosones pair with the 10 female chromosones. Loci are created with the coupling genes and the dominant traits or properties, (allele) from these genes will determine how the plant, looks, smells, etc. I would say it is going to be difficult scientifically for you to determine the genetics unless going to great expense in a laboratory. So effectively selection has to be done to create the traits you are looking for. Once you find the hybrid plant you are looking for you then need to find males and females with similar properties to effectively inbreed and create a stable strain with offsrping that look like the parents.

For a "true breed" this is when offsrping already look like the parents and sisters and brothers of different generations look like their parents. When dealing with hybrids, F1's, F2's, etc, backcrosses are done to ensure the ongoing offspring are like their granparents, great grandparents etc.

Whatever you try, for the best results mix preferably totally different plants (hybrids). If it is purple, or blue tones you seek then you will need to start of with a plant that exhibits that already.

I have crossed shorts based indica dominants phenos with taller phenos, as well as crossing fuelly smelling plants with more fruity flavour plants to achieve winning combinations. Anything is possible really.

ive got a question for whoever wouldnt mind answering it, when breeding what traits come from the mother and which from the father? i.e.leaf colour/shape, pheno,height etc etc as ive promised the g/f i will make her her own strain/cross/whatever you wanna call it so need to start researching how im going to achieve it as she wants a rather particular colourscheme lol
 

3eyes

Well-Known Member
I gave my mate a clone of my G13 labs Durban poison and he's well impressed, thing is now he wants to grow it again from seed and as I've explained since i 1st smoked said plant I've been looking for the seeds but to no avail now he's thinking that when he cuts his Durban down if he leaves a couple of branches with buds on and lets it go long enough he'll get seeds because it happened to his Afghani #1 what do you guys think is it worth a go?
 

DST

Well-Known Member
I don't see how on earth he thinks that will happen. Will he leave it in 12/12? If so the bud will dry out, go brown, and then fall off. If he leaves the bud on and turns the clock back to run 18/6, the bud calyxes will eventually start to open up and will create new leaves (i.e a re-veg) But how seeds are created without male pollen is a mystery. It would be cool to see but perhaps his last lot was contaminated with something else. Whatever, you cannot make a bairn without man bits and lady bits, even if the man bits are on a lady.....

If he wants to make seeds I would advise collodial silver technique. Positive and negative current applied to a piece of silver in a water solution. Left for a number of hours will give you the mix you need to spray your plants with to make them herm.
I gave my mate a clone of my G13 labs Durban poison and he's well impressed, thing is now he wants to grow it again from seed and as I've explained since i 1st smoked said plant I've been looking for the seeds but to no avail now he's thinking that when he cuts his Durban down if he leaves a couple of branches with buds on and lets it go long enough he'll get seeds because it happened to his Afghani #1 what do you guys think is it worth a go?
 
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mr west

Well-Known Member
heres a piece i copied and pasted out of a word doc i have lol.



I named this new method “Rodelization” after a friend who helped me realize and make use of this way of creating female seeds. After growing crop after crop of the same plant in the same conditions, I noticed that if I flowered the plants 10-14 days longer than usual, they would develop male “bananas”. A male banana is a very slight male flower on a female marijuana plant that is formed because of stress. Usually they do not let out any pollen early enough to make seeds, but they sometimes do. They are a built in safety factor so in case of sever conditions, the plant can make sure that the species is furthered.

To me a male banana is quite a beautiful thing. It has the potential of making all female seeds. Many growers out there have male banana phobia. They see one and have heart palpitations, they want to cut down the entire crop or at least take tweezers and pluck the little yellow emerging devices out. I call them “Emergency Devices” because they emerge at times of stress.

In the Rodelization method, the male banana is very valuable. After growing your female plant 10-14 days longer than usual, hang them up to dry, then carefully take them off the drying lines and inspect for bananas. Each and every banana should be removed and placed in a small bag labeled very accurately. These sealed bags can be placed in the fridge for one to two months and still remain potent.

For the second phase you need to already have a crop that’s already 2 ½ weeks into flowering. Take your sealed bag of pollen out of the fridge, and proceed to impregnate your new crop of females. To do this, you must first match the female plant and the pollen from the same strain in the previous crop. Shut down all the fans in the grow room. Then take a very fine paint brush, dip it in the bag of pollen, and paint it on the female flower. Do this to each different strain you have growing together. I have done it with ten different kinds in the same room with great success.

I use the lower flowers to make seeds, leaving the top colas seedless for smoking. This method takes time(two crops), but is completely organic and lets you have great quality smoke at the same time you make your female seeds. If you’re one of those growers that has never grown seeds for fear of not having something good to smoke, you will love this method.

You can also use this pollen to make new female crosses by cross pollinating. The older females with the bananas can be brought into the room with the younger, un-pollinated females when they are three weeks into flowering. Turn all of the circulation fans on high, and the little bits of pollen will proceed to make it around the room. Do this for several days. Six to seven weeks later you will have ripe 100% female seeds; not nearly as many as a male plant would make, but enough to start over somewhere else with the same genetics.
 

shishkaboy

Well-Known Member
heres a piece i copied and pasted out of a word doc i have lol.



I named this new method “Rodelization” after a friend who helped me realize and make use of this way of creating female seeds. After growing crop after crop of the same plant in the same conditions, I noticed that if I flowered the plants 10-14 days longer than usual, they would develop male “bananas”. A male banana is a very slight male flower on a female marijuana plant that is formed because of stress. Usually they do not let out any pollen early enough to make seeds, but they sometimes do. They are a built in safety factor so in case of sever conditions, the plant can make sure that the species is furthered.

To me a male banana is quite a beautiful thing. It has the potential of making all female seeds. Many growers out there have male banana phobia. They see one and have heart palpitations, they want to cut down the entire crop or at least take tweezers and pluck the little yellow emerging devices out. I call them “Emergency Devices” because they emerge at times of stress.

In the Rodelization method, the male banana is very valuable. After growing your female plant 10-14 days longer than usual, hang them up to dry, then carefully take them off the drying lines and inspect for bananas. Each and every banana should be removed and placed in a small bag labeled very accurately. These sealed bags can be placed in the fridge for one to two months and still remain potent.

For the second phase you need to already have a crop that’s already 2 ½ weeks into flowering. Take your sealed bag of pollen out of the fridge, and proceed to impregnate your new crop of females. To do this, you must first match the female plant and the pollen from the same strain in the previous crop. Shut down all the fans in the grow room. Then take a very fine paint brush, dip it in the bag of pollen, and paint it on the female flower. Do this to each different strain you have growing together. I have done it with ten different kinds in the same room with great success.

I use the lower flowers to make seeds, leaving the top colas seedless for smoking. This method takes time(two crops), but is completely organic and lets you have great quality smoke at the same time you make your female seeds. If you’re one of those growers that has never grown seeds for fear of not having something good to smoke, you will love this method.

You can also use this pollen to make new female crosses by cross pollinating. The older females with the bananas can be brought into the room with the younger, un-pollinated females when they are three weeks into flowering. Turn all of the circulation fans on high, and the little bits of pollen will proceed to make it around the room. Do this for several days. Six to seven weeks later you will have ripe 100% female seeds; not nearly as many as a male plant would make, but enough to start over somewhere else with the same genetics.
i have seen this before with a shishkaberry i had a while back. but the bannana didnt show up til very late in flowering and i still dont see how it would produce a viable seed before the plant just died. but i have never grown a seed. How long does it take for a seed to grow to a viable point?
 
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