DIY decisions Vero 29 build 2ft by 2ft tent

jackdajoker

jackdajoker

Active Member
Hello people,

Been thinking about Switching over to COB LED's from my 250w HPS, in my 60cm X 60cm (2ftX2ft) flowering tent for a couple of weeks now. I'm not running Co2 so was going to try aim for the 1000/1200 PPFD range.

The reason for the swap is duo to high temps forcing me to run my fan really high to keep the tent in a good range, but in doing so the humidity drops too low even with a humidifier on the go. The hope is with the lower light temp i will be able to run the fan lower and not have to vent the air outside to help keep the humidity in a good range.

I've listed what I've come up with for my build, please give me your thoughts:

1 x BXRC-30E10K0-C-73
1 x BXRC-30G10K0-C-73
1 x BXRC-27E10K0-C-73
1 x BXRC-27G10K0-C-73
4 x PICO-EZMATE HARNESS FOR VERO 12"
4 x Ledil LED BASE ROUND BRIDGELUX VERO 29
4 x Ledil F13841_ANGELA-XW-B
1 x Aluminium Angle Moulding 25 x 25 x 2400mm
4 x ARCTIC Alpine 11 PLUS - 100 Watt Low Noise CPU Cooler
2 x 100K ohm B100K Top Adjustment Dual Linear Potentiometer
2 x Mean Well HLG185H-C1400B

for £288

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was thinking of running the Vero's at around 1050a for the better efficacy, and according to LED gardeners Cob calculator, four x config C Vero 29's running at 1050a should give me around 276.8W and if i say the efficacy will be around 1.55 Duo to the mix of E and G types, i should be able to get around 1155 PPFD, if my math is correct. I've not looked into the SE version but hear good things, is there much a difference to regards the light spectrum or should i be alright with what I've selected?

Next on the list are the reflectors and I've not had much time looking into them but from what I've seen Ledil are alright, so I had a look over the Ledil Angela datasheet and decided to go for the ANGELA-XW-B model duo to it having one of the highest efficiency. But if this is not needed or not the recommended please let me know.

Gone for the ARCTIC Alpine 11 PLUS for the heat-sink, just because they are quite cheap and look like they will be able to handle the job.

last of all I decided on two HLG185H-C1400B's over the 1050 model as i want more room to adjust the current. What do you people think of my pick, would i be better off running all 4 COB's off one driver?

any help with be appreciated,
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
How tall is that tent? 4 sq feet with that much V29 power pouring on it will have some serious photon saturation, no doubt about it....
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
most people dont want to look up part numbers you might want to specify which model and color temp vero 29s you selected
 
Humple

Humple

Well-Known Member
jackdajoker said:
Hello people,

Been thinking about Switching over to COB LED's from my 250w HPS, in my 60cm X 60cm (2ftX2ft) flowering tent for a couple of weeks now. I'm not running Co2 so was going to try aim for the 1000/1200 PPFD range.

The reason for the swap is duo to high temps forcing me to run my fan really high to keep the tent in a good range, but in doing so the humidity drops too low even with a humidifier on the go. The hope is with the lower light temp i will be able to run the fan lower and not have to vent the air outside to help keep the humidity in a good range.

I've listed what I've come up with for my build, please give me your thoughts:

1 x BXRC-30E10K0-C-73
1 x BXRC-30G10K0-C-73
1 x BXRC-27E10K0-C-73
1 x BXRC-27G10K0-C-73
4 x PICO-EZMATE HARNESS FOR VERO 12"
4 x Ledil LED BASE ROUND BRIDGELUX VERO 29
4 x Ledil F13841_ANGELA-XW-B
1 x Aluminium Angle Moulding 25 x 25 x 2400mm
4 x ARCTIC Alpine 11 PLUS - 100 Watt Low Noise CPU Cooler
2 x 100K ohm B100K Top Adjustment Dual Linear Potentiometer
2 x Mean Well HLG185H-C1400B

for £288

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was thinking of running the Vero's at around 1050a for the better efficacy, and according to LED gardeners Cob calculator, four x config C Vero 29's running at 1050a should give me around 276.8W and if i say the efficacy will be around 1.55 Duo to the mix of E and G types, i should be able to get around 1155 PPFD, if my math is correct. I've not looked into the SE version but hear good things, is there much a difference to regards the light spectrum or should i be alright with what I've selected?

Next on the list are the reflectors and I've not had much time looking into them but from what I've seen Ledil are alright, so I had a look over the Ledil Angela datasheet and decided to go for the ANGELA-XW-B model duo to it having one of the highest efficiency. But if this is not needed or not the recommended please let me know.

Gone for the ARCTIC Alpine 11 PLUS for the heat-sink, just because they are quite cheap and look like they will be able to handle the job.

last of all I decided on two HLG185H-C1400B's over the 1050 model as i want more room to adjust the current. What do you people think of my pick, would i be better off running all 4 COB's off one driver?

any help with be appreciated,
Click to expand...
According to the Led-gurus here, you don't need reflectors if you're in a tent with reflective walls, and if mitigating heat is your concern, replacing 250w of HPS with 270+w of LED isn't going to do it. Granted, you'd be able to dim them, and have headroom if you ever upgrade to a bigger tent. But honestly, I don't think you need more than 150w of well-cast light. Not trying to put you off COBs, but as an example of what I'm talking about, a single QB288 Quantum Board (which will max at about 150w with the driver that comes with the "135w" kit from HLG) is recommended for a 2x2 space. But again, building a 270w, four-COB fixture gives you something to work with if you expand.
 
Danielson999

Danielson999

Well-Known Member
4 Vero 29 at 50w each. No reflector, no harness. HLG-185x-xxxx driver type B with external pot for dimming. SST120 pinfin heatsinks seen HERE, thermal pads, half a dozen wago's and a small roll of 18awg solid copper wire. Also a 100K ohm pot, 10k resistor and some electrical tape and/or shrink tubes.

If you order the SST120 passive sinks, make sure you specify for the Vero 29 cob. They made some that are only compatible with the Citizen cobs.
 
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ChaosHunter

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
I want to light up a similar space but want the COBs in a quad configuration x 4 COBs. 3K or 3.5k at 200w max on a dimmer. Not sure what brand or the differences are.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Wagos are dumb. fucking awkward one-time use connectors.
Can't wait until I have the time and energy to rip ours from the system and replace with some daisy chain setup.
 
K

key4

Well-Known Member
4x clu048 1212 on a hlg-185h-c1400 but driven at 1050ma would be my 1st option for a 60x60 tent .

I wouldnt bother with vero29c at anything less than 1400ma, you might aswell go for cxm22 and save some cash. 4 cxm22 at 1050ma will be plenty in a 60x60.
 
D

Dave455

Well-Known Member
key4 said:
4x clu048 1212 on a hlg-185h-c1400 but driven at 1050ma would be my 1st option for a 60x60 tent .

I wouldnt bother with vero29c at anything less than 1400ma, you might aswell go for cxm22 and save some cash. 4 cxm22 at 1050ma will be plenty in a 60x60.
Click to expand...
Check out cob kits pre assembled cxm 22 light engines !!!
 
jackdajoker

jackdajoker

Active Member
CobKits said:
most people dont want to look up part numbers you might want to specify which model and color temp vero 29s you selected
Click to expand...
Gone for:
one x 2700k 80 CRI
one x 2700k 90 CRI
one x 3000k 80 CRI
one x 3000k 90 CRI

All config C vero 29's

also thanks for the info regarding the SE version.


CobKits said:
250HPS arent all that efficient
125-150W of cobs will replace it
Click to expand...
I was running the HPS at 400w for a time but came across a website saying a 400w dual spec lamp, like i have puts out about 1.3 efficacy, and if your not running Co2, i was told it's pointless trying to bump up the PPF as it will be bottle-necked. That and duo to high temps in the summer is the reason for the dimming to 250w.

I'm not really looking just for a straight swap. i want to upgrade and try hit that 1000/1200 PPFD range for my space, while still being within a good VPD range as well. Bit of a challenge but I'm going to try. :D

Chip Green said:
How tall is that tent? 4 sq feet with that much V29 power pouring on it will have some serious photon saturation, no doubt about it....
Click to expand...
The Tent is 180cm (6ft) tall, and yeah it does seem like i may have over spec'd the build in an attempt to future proof it for myself.
 
Last edited:
jackdajoker

jackdajoker

Active Member
Humple said:
According to the Led-gurus here, you don't need reflectors if you're in a tent with reflective walls, and if mitigating heat is your concern, replacing 250w of HPS with 270+w of LED isn't going to do it. Granted, you'd be able to dim them, and have headroom if you ever upgrade to a bigger tent. But honestly, I don't think you need more than 150w of well-cast light. Not trying to put you off COBs, but as an example of what I'm talking about, a single QB288 Quantum Board (which will max at about 150w with the driver that comes with the "135w" kit from HLG) is recommended for a 2x2 space. But again, building a 270w, four-COB fixture gives you something to work with if you expand.
Click to expand...


Danielson999 said:
4 Vero 29 at 50w each. No reflector, no harness. HLG-185x-xxxx driver type B with external pot for dimming. SST120 pinfin heatsinks seen HERE, thermal pads, half a dozen wago's and a small roll of 18awg solid copper wire. Also a 100K ohm pot, 10k resistor and some electrical tape and/or shrink tubes.

If you order the SST120 passive sinks, make sure you specify for the Vero 29 cob. They made some that are only compatible with the Citizen cobs.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys on the info, I'll take the reflectors off my list, saves me a nice little bit of cash.

I'll have to check out the QB288 Quantum Boards, heard quite a number of people talk about the quantum boards.

I've already seen the SST120 pinfin heatsinks, and for the price i prefer the active cooling from the CPU heat-sinks. Seen a number of builds using Arctic's and people have had no issues from what I've read. As for the Wagos, i'm not too sure if i'll bother, may just twist and solder. Didn't want to solder the COB's though so i got the PICO-EZMATE harness to play safe.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
At 700ma you would be getting 45 watts from each cob, 25 par watts per foot using 4 in a 2x2. A single HLG-185H-C700B will do the job and efficiency at max brightness will be 56%. 195-200w from the wall.

At 500ma you're hitting over 60% efficiency, 20 par watts per foot and PPFD will still be about 1000. HLG-120H-C500B will run around 135-140 watts from the wall.

If you build it at 1.4 amps you won't be able to run at max brightness. In fact you probably won't be able to run at 1050ma. That would be 70 watts per foot, 35 PAR watts, PPFD well over 1500 in a 2x2. If you plan to upgrade to a 3x3 at some point the 1400ma current makes sense.

The EZMATE connectors are kinda flimsy to begin with. Several years of operation and they will be brittle, almost impossible to remove without breaking. Vero SE version has wire connectors for up to 18g as long as jacket is under 2mm, best of both worlds, also no need for reflectors/holders.

Color temp of selected cobs, 2850K 85CRI.
 
jackdajoker

jackdajoker

Active Member
Rahz said:
At 700ma you would be getting 45 watts from each cob, 25 par watts per foot using 4 in a 2x2. A single HLG-185H-C700B will do the job and efficiency at max brightness will be 56%. 195-200w from the wall.

At 500ma you're hitting over 60% efficiency, 20 par watts per foot and PPFD will still be about 1000. HLG-120H-C500B will run around 135-140 watts from the wall.

If you build it at 1.4 amps you won't be able to run at max brightness. In fact you probably won't be able to run at 1050ma. That would be 70 watts per foot, 35 PAR watts, PPFD well over 1500 in a 2x2. If you plan to upgrade to a 3x3 at some point the 1400ma current makes sense.
Click to expand...
Hi Rahz

Thanks for you input, i didn't even notice the leap in V the 700B model has, that setup would save me quite a bit. Thank you for the suggestion, I just have some questions regarding this, as i feel my math most be off. with the your first option you suggest a running the cobs all off one 700b which would work, but wouldn't it be closer to the 180w range. Also looking at the data sheet for the Veros i cant see that the efficacy would be at 700, but for 855. it's at 1.85 for the CRI 80 and 1.53 for the CRI 90. If i go for a guesstimate that the 700b efficacy on avg around 1.8, i end up with around 875 PPFD. Have i got this all wrong???

-------------------
How i'm working it out.

Wattage at the COB * efficacy = PPF

PPF / .37121612 (60cmx60cm metres squared) = PPFD

I understand this is a very basic formula and not the most accurate.


key4 said:
4x clu048 1212 on a hlg-185h-c1400 but driven at 1050ma would be my 1st option for a 60x60 tent .

I wouldnt bother with vero29c at anything less than 1400ma, you might aswell go for cxm22 and save some cash. 4 cxm22 at 1050ma will be plenty in a 60x60.
Click to expand...
I live in the UK and from what i can see the CXM and the Veros are priced the same for me, also i'm not looking to go high current as that will just cost me more in the long run with electrical bills. The lower the current the better efficacy you get out if it. Yes i could go for 2 cobs and get the same wattage out of them on a higher current but they would be running hot and would get less lums per watt.

Dave455 said:
Check out cob kits pre assembled cxm 22 light engines !!!
Click to expand...
Not a bad little setup, would cost me more going for that build duo to shipping to the UK, but its nice to be able to use builds like that one to compare.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
jackdajoker said:
but wouldn't it be closer to the 180w range.
Click to expand...
Yes output would be. Add in driver loss and possible slight over current and the input will be 190 or more.

jackdajoker said:
How i'm working it out.

Wattage at the COB * efficacy = PPF

PPF / .37121612 (60cmx60cm metres squared) = PPFD

I understand this is a very basic formula and not the most accurate.
Click to expand...
Wattage at the COB * efficiency = PAR watts. 3000K 90CRI is about 5 micromoles per radiant watt, so 181 watts * .56 * 5 = 507 PPF. To get PPFD, 507 / 36 * 100 = 1408 or if tent was 24"x24" 507 / 4 * 10.7 = 1356 PPFD.

Light levels at the canopy would be a tad lower but you can see the 700ma option is going to be on the strong side.
 
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