Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by Gaius, Mar 1, 2014.
Check out this video as well guys/gals:
thats pretty nice,, for those who either dont have the tools, or the time, or maybe even the "how to" ,, but if a person can read simple instructions and have a basic screw driver set,, they could build that light,, I wonder if it comes with wiring instructions for the beginners
Very true my friend.
Do you have an update on the reds? I would love to see a screen shot of it.
I was thinking it would be extremely efficient if you use a fan controller (for all the fans of course). This one is touch screen and it have thermal pads (for which you can use for each heat sink). Check out this video as an example:
It's great because you can set it to speed up the fan in reference to higher temps. This means your cobs will last longer....etc.
Just my food for thought guys.
Alibaba sells the cree cobs much cheaper.
3000k (for veg) -> http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CXB3590-Cree-XLamp-CXB-Leds-3000K_60339198819.html
5000k (for flowering) -> http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CREE-CXB3590-5000K-CD-36V-80CRI_60263476594.html
Have a great day folks
I was thinking of using a wood bed frame as a led frame. It's light enough so why not. Here's some food for thought:
I got the idea from this post:
Hi everyone! I LOVE this idea.
I am about to get started on making this light, I have been wanting to for a while!
I am going to make a few changes. I am going to use the CXB3590 LEDs in place of the CXA3070, thanks to Lucius Bandy for the alibaba links I am also probably going to add some Cree XP-E Deep Red LEDs dispersed throughout the fixture, connected to a switch and only turn these on for blooming.
To control everything in the grow environment, I am using a Raspberry Pi with some sensors for temp/humidity and relays to control power outlets, and I am also considering designing a mechanism that will modulate the current output of the drivers based on temperature (from different sensors connected to the RPi).
I am thinking of using a digital potentiometer (MCP4151, between the power supply and the drivers) with a Raspberry Pi and write some code that will read in temps and adjust the potentiometers accordingly so that it optimizes light output. What do you think of this idea?
It's Bundy and not Bandy bro...lol
My bad folks...I got it the other way around. I meant 3500K for Flowering and 5000k for Veg.
Don't forget to use the CXB3590 3500k for Flowering and the CXB3590 5000k for veg. Or you can have them both on the same fixture and them put the 3500k on a separate driver from the 5000k. During Veg, turn the 5000k up and the 3500k on low. Vice Versa during flowering. So during veg you will have alot of blue and a small amount of red. During flowering, you will have alot of red and a small amount of blue. Also use UV led to increase the THC levels.
Love this - but far too big for my needs,,,
Anybody able to help with a much smaller system - I run a micro grow in a 60x60 tent and would love to self build a LED system specifically for it.
Check out this video:
Thanks for the video!
I am in the planning process, and have been in contact with Jerry at Kingbrite and he just sent me an email with some new products and I am just wondering what your thoughts are on these? Specifically I am looking at the silicon lens
I ordered two meanwell (the newest versions) six 3500k 3590's and six 6500k 3590's.). I also ordered all the necessary parts but no heatsink. I'm going to use M1 arctic cpu heatsink and fan for them. I'm going to have the 'checkers' approach with each one (both next to each other...etc). During seedling and veg, I'll have the 6500k's up and the 3500k's very low. Vice versa during flowering. Look into adding UV's as well. each of the new drivers and hold six cob's each. Good luck with your purchase bro. Have a great day
Hey nice build. Im about to build some myself and was wondering what size area are you uding these 8 cobs on? Thanks
How can you tell the BIN??
Anyway, you are right, plus you get more spread to when lower (driven), if driven at 1400, thats about a 4 lights with driver MAX, getting the 3090(cxa), running at 700 mA and you can drive 8 lights, same wattage. Efficiency is if it is brighter (MOST LE COMPANIES ARE Also stating that TO AVOID BLEACHING THEY SHOULD BE 18-36" away, for real), Anyway, lets say you run 4 drivers at 1400, depending on the volt, depends on how many you can run but it will be bright and HOT and the Photon to heat is like 40% Photon, 60% Heat, driven at 700mA and its reversed but actually higher more like, 65-70% efficient and 35-40% heat. This is why I am wondering why we are not seeing them but you tube it, one guy built a killer machine, cost him 2GS but it would be 5G's retail. The chips were like $35, then spiked to $100.00 What is the output per watt on the newer XL-M2's? (Advanced Lighting), Amare uses the same as this guy, but his is more spread out, and cheaper.
CREE 303 LUMENS PER WATT
Do you have link to that youtube video or are you referring to GrowMau5?
But for real, to get a grip and understand, watch this one first.
Might have it backwards but subscribe then watch all!!!
Bottom might make you think its hard, but its not (also BSEE and Certified inComputers, BSEE, Electronics), but still breaks it down really good as the higher the efficiency is to start small! More efficient=more photon's.
I do not know how to select bins, may also look at cheaper but not retail...
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