DIY THERMOSAT CONTROLLER

Mainlinekush

Well-Known Member
20140905_085644.jpg HOW TO INSTALL A MH1210F DIGITAL THERMOSAT CONTROLLER
As far as controller there's two options either a single circuit for heating or cooler or a dual circuit for hooking up both.
MH1210 F ON EBAY 1 CIRCUT
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191150304564&alt=web
STC1000 C ON EBAY 2 CIRCUT
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=311042991624&alt=web

I like the MH1210F because it's in F already and I don't need to heat and cool.
YOU WILL NEED
Dremel or cutting saw
Drill
Small flat head and Phillips screw driver
Wire cutters/ strippers
Tape
Sharpie/Pencil
Multi meter if you want

1.Digital Thermostat $13.99 EBAY
2. Project box 7x5x3 $6.99 Radio Shack
3. 3 prong hospital grade power cord 8ft. $1.95 Axman Surplus
4. 125v 20A Outlet w / Cover $4.30 Home Depot

Start by tracing the outer diameter of controller and socket on the center of project box with pencil and then inside of the pencil line I trace with sharpie. Use the final Socket cover to layout the placement. I'm using the perfect size box, it has to be at least 7x5x3.

CAREFULLY CUT INSIDE these sharpie lines with Dremel, the lines you drew will be covered by the small amount of face plate on the Digital controller when it's installed.
The socket hole is more forgiving you just need 1/4 around its shape. Mark where your tabs will go so you have a sturdy base left to screw them down.

I cut about 5-6 inches of wire off my power cord then use these wires later to hook up connections on digital controller.
Cords may come with ends already stripped open you'll need 6-7 inches of open wire at the end of your power cord to power controller.

Now drill a 5/16 hole in the foot of the project box to hold the power cord in place.

The green power cord wire goes to green screw on socket.

Take a 6" white wire and a 6" black wire from your cuttings. Hook black to gold / Hot screw on socket. Here I broke the bridge to the 2nd hot screw. Now only the top socket is going to get power.

Hook the 6" white wire to the silver screw from the same socket this is the neutral.

Take the white power cord wire and hook it up to the same screw as other 6 " white wire. You can hook it to the bridge screw like I did in the photo if your using a dual socket.

MH1210F controller has 6 ports
#5 & #6
are for the temp sensor. DO NOT CUT or SPLICE these small wires you'll ruin the calibrated resistance. If you need more cord just run a extension cord to the controller.

Hook up the sensor wires to 5 and 6.

Run the 6 " white wire from socket to port 3.

Run the 6 " black wire from the socket to port 1.

Run the black power cord wire to port 4 this is your main power.

Run a jumper wire from Port 4 to 2 to complete the load circuit.

Drill a small 5/32 hole in the head of the box to run sensor out. I run tape around the wire a few times to make it fill the hole and prevent being pulled out of box. I had a rubber gromet so I used that for this hole.

Now mount the controller it will slide in flush, slide on the orange tabs from the back to lock it in. I cut the digital controller rear cover post off in the middle to mount the project box covers. CENTER the Socket and put in your finishing screws. You should drill 7/64 pilot holes to start the factory Outlet screws.

Set the temp and Enjoy the $28.00 machine you made. While cooling it cuts off my AC when temps are low saving money.
 

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hbbum

Well-Known Member
Cool, but correct me if I am wrong, I think the second controller you listed will not work because it is powered by 12V DC and you would only have AC power. They do make a AC temp controller in C though, I just think you may have linked the wrong one. (again I could be wrong). I am doing something similar but with a peltier to act as a water chiller.
 
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