Getgrowingson
Well-Known Member
A little organic qb bud porn some tops were ready at 8 weeks. Size 11 garden shoes lol biggest the Tahoe has gotten and like rocks could knock you out with these colas
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
Mohican
Well-Known Member
Ah - OK. Didn't realize that was for me. You don't use any additives? Pro-Tekt silica for instance is 0-0-3.
OK - So you are a commercial grower.
There is no question that the Gavitas grow dank. Although they do run super hot. You will need to hang them high and have a big ladder for changing the bulbs.
In a commercial grow, what happens when you splash a QB? Do they keep on ticking or do they die?
Post some pics of your construction. People here would love to see it!
I think GeekMike the weednerd on Facebook has a commercial Gavita setup. You should check it out. He is master of the Golden Ticket TGA Chernobyl cut.
Cheers,
Mo
OK - So you are a commercial grower.
There is no question that the Gavitas grow dank. Although they do run super hot. You will need to hang them high and have a big ladder for changing the bulbs.
In a commercial grow, what happens when you splash a QB? Do they keep on ticking or do they die?
Post some pics of your construction. People here would love to see it!
I think GeekMike the weednerd on Facebook has a commercial Gavita setup. You should check it out. He is master of the Golden Ticket TGA Chernobyl cut.
Cheers,
Mo
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IndoorScore
Active Member
I would honestly say unless you have a ton of liquid capital you want to write off, doing a whole commercial grow op with LEDs is insanely expensive in terms of upfront cost compared to DE HPS. Most of the benefits (save the efficiency and therefore the power bill) of using these QBs in particular seem to be that you can hang them lower, they produce less heat and give a more even spread with less distance to the canopy. You don't seem to need these benefits specifically for this situation. There is no BEST answer. Just the best for each grower.
If I was going to run that size of a room and use LEDs, I'd probably use 600w Vero29 rigs over each 4x4 or something similar. You can drive them at 100w and they don't cost a ton. You can get really good volume discounts because the parts are not plant specific and are mass produced.
THAT being said, I just picked up two HLG-550s to try out over two 4x4 trays. I'm interested to see what they can pump out next to each other. I will be happy with ~700g a fixture but expect it could be quite a bit more after I get everything really dialed in, even without co2 enrichment.
For someone in a recreational sized grow (~6k HPS or so) that doesn't have cathedral ceilings or a window AC/mini-split installed, the upfront cost compared to the running cost is less of an issue. I had no problem dropping ~$1700 on two fixtures that will pay for themselves in BULB REPLACEMENT ALONE in less than 4 years. I don't know about you, but I replace my bulbs once ~6 months or so. $440 dollars a year in bulbs alone.
I'm also expanding into a decent sized attic, but height is going to be a major concern. I will most likely look to these boards again to provide a lighting solution that is efficient, reliable, cheap to maintain, relatively affordable and backed up by some of the best customer service I've seen in any industry, forget about all the burn outs and drug addicts that seem to peddle most of the snake oil to potheads.
Just my 2c.
-IS-
If I was going to run that size of a room and use LEDs, I'd probably use 600w Vero29 rigs over each 4x4 or something similar. You can drive them at 100w and they don't cost a ton. You can get really good volume discounts because the parts are not plant specific and are mass produced.
THAT being said, I just picked up two HLG-550s to try out over two 4x4 trays. I'm interested to see what they can pump out next to each other. I will be happy with ~700g a fixture but expect it could be quite a bit more after I get everything really dialed in, even without co2 enrichment.
For someone in a recreational sized grow (~6k HPS or so) that doesn't have cathedral ceilings or a window AC/mini-split installed, the upfront cost compared to the running cost is less of an issue. I had no problem dropping ~$1700 on two fixtures that will pay for themselves in BULB REPLACEMENT ALONE in less than 4 years. I don't know about you, but I replace my bulbs once ~6 months or so. $440 dollars a year in bulbs alone.
I'm also expanding into a decent sized attic, but height is going to be a major concern. I will most likely look to these boards again to provide a lighting solution that is efficient, reliable, cheap to maintain, relatively affordable and backed up by some of the best customer service I've seen in any industry, forget about all the burn outs and drug addicts that seem to peddle most of the snake oil to potheads.
Just my 2c.
-IS-
kaoss_11
Well-Known Member
I drop protekt at 5ml/g so truthfully its 3.1.3 if we want to get concise.
ok I will share my extremely complicated and advanced liquid fertilizer i use.
Foliage pro in veg
Foliage pro in transition for 2-3 weeks in flower room depending on strain
Bloom in flower 2-8 weeks
Protekt - at all times
MagPro only if they need it which they rarely ever do. if I do run magpro its at 1 or 1.5 ml a gallon. 2ml if I feel its absolutely necessary. I go through one of my 5 gallon bottles of FP faster than a gal of mag to give perspective possibly even 2
Bleach - at all times(even in my cloners). Yes you read that correct. I run diluted bleach. I prefer running a sterile system, sterile is better in recirculating than active/live beneficial bacteria in your res. Please lets not debate this I have tried both and active is a waste and dirty for hydro w/ pebbles. Plus it causes all sorts or other issues. A bottle of bleach cost me 2.50usd and lasts a lifetime. Better than hydroguard, uc roots or any other you can name.
Guys make growing extremely difficult and cumbersome and waste time and money for no reason, its confusing but if thats what the competition wants to do then who am I to tell them different.
By definition I dont think I am a commercial grower yet. I use the term to differentiate from the tent guys or small garden only to give a picture of what I am going to build. Im/we are still small and in our infancy. once we get up to about 40-50 lamps which is still small then maybe we can say Im commercial.
I have put DE in guys basements that had 7.5 foot ceilings. You just have to make some adjustments and changes but it will work fine. I dont follow you, what do you mean by splash?
Doubt I will post pictures. Even after removing metadata thats something I still would not feel the most comfortable about. I will definitely sleep on it. if i can find an old point and shoot camera then maybe. Yes they grow dank however I am definitely looking at LED, i previously got into the DE wave late and dont want to do that with LED.
I would have to agree with most of what your saying. I have 3 DE sitting up and 2 SE 600 sitting in a corner. I may just get 4 550s and do a true side by side in the room I plan on building. That way there is no more talking shit, same strains, same nutes, same room, same techniques.
I would never run something in veg with such low N and high P but if your garden is rocking continue. Its been proven that 1.1.1. works great and 3.1.2 works even better. research for yourself and youll see.
ok I will share my extremely complicated and advanced liquid fertilizer i use.
Foliage pro in veg
Foliage pro in transition for 2-3 weeks in flower room depending on strain
Bloom in flower 2-8 weeks
Protekt - at all times
MagPro only if they need it which they rarely ever do. if I do run magpro its at 1 or 1.5 ml a gallon. 2ml if I feel its absolutely necessary. I go through one of my 5 gallon bottles of FP faster than a gal of mag to give perspective possibly even 2
Bleach - at all times(even in my cloners). Yes you read that correct. I run diluted bleach. I prefer running a sterile system, sterile is better in recirculating than active/live beneficial bacteria in your res. Please lets not debate this I have tried both and active is a waste and dirty for hydro w/ pebbles. Plus it causes all sorts or other issues. A bottle of bleach cost me 2.50usd and lasts a lifetime. Better than hydroguard, uc roots or any other you can name.
Guys make growing extremely difficult and cumbersome and waste time and money for no reason, its confusing but if thats what the competition wants to do then who am I to tell them different.
By definition I dont think I am a commercial grower yet. I use the term to differentiate from the tent guys or small garden only to give a picture of what I am going to build. Im/we are still small and in our infancy. once we get up to about 40-50 lamps which is still small then maybe we can say Im commercial.
I have put DE in guys basements that had 7.5 foot ceilings. You just have to make some adjustments and changes but it will work fine. I dont follow you, what do you mean by splash?
Doubt I will post pictures. Even after removing metadata thats something I still would not feel the most comfortable about. I will definitely sleep on it. if i can find an old point and shoot camera then maybe. Yes they grow dank however I am definitely looking at LED, i previously got into the DE wave late and dont want to do that with LED.
I dont have a ton but in business you have to stretch to progress or youll just be mediocre. This damn building took up a lot of the budget that was for lamps and environment etc. Its costing a lot to just secure it up decently. I dont even take money home right now, it all gets reallocated back into the business. I will probably turn a profit later next year.
I would have to agree with most of what your saying. I have 3 DE sitting up and 2 SE 600 sitting in a corner. I may just get 4 550s and do a true side by side in the room I plan on building. That way there is no more talking shit, same strains, same nutes, same room, same techniques.
kaoss_11
Well-Known Member
Oh ok duh splash, got ya.
I can't say I splashed my qbs but they have been hit with the sprayer mist I'm sure. I spray neem oil weekly and switch between mighty wash and Jack's for the in-between 3-5 day spray. I emulsify the neem with dish washing liquid or protekt. After I spray chemicals on the plants, I spray the following day with water and protekt. Very light amount of protekt. Literally dribbles.
30 days with the qb is not long enough to give you a durability or longevity review but I can saw I have not seen any issues.
My power cord will be here tomorrow and then I can fire up the 2700k. I may just wait since there is only 2 weeks of veg left and that would not be a fair assessment. We will see though
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
So this is a real live commercial grow.
You can grow vertically with HID, I did it for years.
The questions about constraints are too get an idea of your limits, it what you have to stay within. Is there a limit on the number of plants in bloom? Square footage? Watts?
Vertical isn't the solution for every problem but it can be the killer app for some.
PM me. I've helped a lot of commercial growers get on their feet.
Doctor Derp
Well-Known Member
And now we wait for the magic beans to sprout.
pop22
Well-Known Member
Seems everyone forgets bulb degradation and replacement costs. I can by a QB and a heatsink for it shipped for the cost of a good bulb. Efficiency and light output declines steadily, the internal heat slowly destroys them. 1 QB will outlast 5 bulbs so factor that, and I bet your close to even, you just spend it upfront. That's not factoring efficiency savings. No, HPS has had its day, there are now equal or better options. I'm willing to bet the 5 year ROI makes using QB type lights cheaper.
pop22
Well-Known Member
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Not everyone has the up front capital. It can be a real hurdle.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I was careful to say nutrient RATIOS, that's not the actual nutrient strength.
3-1-4 is the ratio many commercial facilities here in Colorado run, with great results. Tissue sample verified, FWIW.
I use dry nutrient salts, they're just as good as water bottles and a huge cost savings. I spend a couple pennies per gallon of plant ready nutrient solution.
I do not use potassium silicate in my reservoirs, it fucks up pH way bad. I use it as foliar only. Works fine that way.
I understand how tight things are getting started. Use what you can afford and upgrade as you have time and money to spare. That goes for lighting as well as everything else.
ganglyguy420
Well-Known Member
I wired up 4 boards & 2 hlg 240 1050b's with no potentiometer. The slate 5 was cool to the touch but the drivers were too hot to touch. I had them on hardwood & thought they would leave a black mark so I shut em off & am wiring a 50k potentiometer to them today.
Is it okay to have 2 14 gauge wire from driver to wago connector but only 20 gauge wire going from wago connector to potentiometer? Not sure but I only have 20 gauge wire right now.
Is it okay to have 2 14 gauge wire from driver to wago connector but only 20 gauge wire going from wago connector to potentiometer? Not sure but I only have 20 gauge wire right now.
ganglyguy420
Well-Known Member
Do your driver's get really hot too? Mine are so hot I'm considering some kind of insulation for them. I would put a cooling fan on em if it extends the lifespan but there not in my room, im worried about a fire. Also, the wires were tinned on the driver but I had to shorten them for the rohs connector and did not put more solder on. Maybe that was a mistake cuse that stranded wire broke easy
kaoss_11
Well-Known Member
First off thank you and I appreciate that.
Ill pm you
Humple
Well-Known Member
Stopped by Menards for some L-channel to build the frame for my 4xQB120. Got my wire and connectors. The driver already arrived. Now I'm just waiting on the boards. It's been less than a week since I ordered, so I'm not expecting them this soon. Plenty of people in line ahead of me, and I'm sure HLG will get to me in my turn, so no worries... But damn, do I have the itch!
I don't think people are getting how effecient these things are.
1 24" tall plant in a 3'x3' tent made this and it was finished at 200w under 4 qb's, it saw 300w for about a week and got absolutely nuked.
Those "small" jars in the middle are half gallons.
This pheno was not a winner so it's not very resinous but my OG that is getting ready to finish in a couple weeks is beyond frosty and rock hard. If you are having issues under these lights it's probably becuase they are too intense and need to be turned down or moved farther away.
1 24" tall plant in a 3'x3' tent made this and it was finished at 200w under 4 qb's, it saw 300w for about a week and got absolutely nuked.
Those "small" jars in the middle are half gallons.
This pheno was not a winner so it's not very resinous but my OG that is getting ready to finish in a couple weeks is beyond frosty and rock hard. If you are having issues under these lights it's probably becuase they are too intense and need to be turned down or moved farther away.
Dopaw13
Well-Known Member
i am currently on my first DiY light i only have 1 driver and yes it gets VERY hot after being on for a few hours so i just attached a pc fan to it to blow the hot air off of it and towards my exhaust. i would take a picture but my phone camera is shit and i dont know where my camera is right now but it helps alot the driver is barely warm to the touch. I don't know if it needs it but i didn't think it was ood for it to be that hot and had the fan lying around so said WTH lol. but i am getting a bigger setup once i decide on Vero or QB and most likely i will have a pc fan or 2 on the driver just because i can XD.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Lol I know, right?