DIY with Quantum Boards

Humple

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was giving 4 QB132s all the juice a HLG-240H-C1750A can deliver and I could still touch the back of the QB. It was hot but didnt burn me. Unfortunately I dont have a temperature sensor
I don't have any QB132s, but I can four 120s at more than 250w all day long and still they don't get hot.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
All electrically conductive parts you are likely to touch should be grounded.
It is not a big deal, as long as your driver is connected to ground on the plug, you just need to make sure there is electrical continuity from the driver case to all the parts.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
If the driver is grounded on the AC side, your fine. The DC side does not require a ground


All electrically conductive parts you are likely to touch should be grounded.
It is not a big deal, as long as your driver is connected to ground on the plug, you just need to make sure there is electrical continuity from the driver case to all the parts.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
The metal frame that you connect stuff to will be safer if it has a conductive path to the case of the driver. (usually happens if you screw a driver into an all-metal frame).

I can not tell you how annoying it is to have a large op that keeps zapping your ears and bald spot. Been there.
 

DarthPlagueis

Well-Known Member
The metal frame that you connect stuff to will be safer if it has a conductive path to the case of the driver. (usually happens if you screw a driver into an all-metal frame).

I can not tell you how annoying it is to have a large op that keeps zapping your ears and bald spot. Been there.
So is a ground needed or not for the DC side? With a 3 prong grounded cord on the AC side


Also got two 304QB boards instead of the 2 132, I have a 240-2100b laying around, that should be able to power both boards at 1050 if I wire them in parallel. Any difference between series and parallel in terms of safety?
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
No, do not connect DC side to anything but the LED.
I suggest treating the frame as part of the AC side in terms of grounding..
 

Viceman666

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="DarthPlagueis, post: 14142237, member: 959477]

Also got two 304QB boards instead of the 2 132, I have a 240-2100b laying around, that should be able to power both boards at 1050 if I wire them in parallel. Any difference between series and parallel in terms of safety?[/QUOTE]
Thats what I use to run my two 304led board and works like a charm without potentiometer running at 259-260w with the B version like you
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
The average resistance of human skin is 40 volts.However, the real danger is amperage, and as little as .1A can kill. Either circuit is dangerous safetywise. Both require proper caution when working with live circuits.


[QUOTE="DarthPlagueis, post: 14142237, member: 959477]

Also got two 304QB boards instead of the 2 132, I have a 240-2100b laying around, that should be able to power both boards at 1050 if I wire them in parallel. Any difference between series and parallel in terms of safety?
Thats what I use to run my two 304led board and works like a charm without potentiometer running at 259-260w with the B version like you[/QUOTE]
 

DarthPlagueis

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="DarthPlagueis, post: 14142237, member: 959477]

Also got two 304QB boards instead of the 2 132, I have a 240-2100b laying around, that should be able to power both boards at 1050 if I wire them in parallel. Any difference between series and parallel in terms of safety?
Thats what I use to run my two 304led board and works like a charm without potentiometer running at 259-260w with the B version like you[/QUOTE]

NIce, do you know if running the boards is safer in series versus parallel wiring? What would you say the flowering footprint is?

If you don't use a potentiotmeter you get a bit more power right? I purchased one but not quite sure how much power I'd lose
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
Running with the pot gives you control, the loss is minimal and likely better for the driver than running wide open. I run both with and without pots on various drivers. Don't see a lot of difference and a dimmer sves you raising and lowering lights.

Thats what I use to run my two 304led board and works like a charm without potentiometer running at 259-260w with the B version like you
NIce, do you know if running the boards is safer in series versus parallel wiring? What would you say the flowering footprint is?

If you don't use a potentiotmeter you get a bit more power right? I purchased one but not quite sure how much power I'd lose[/QUOTE]
 

DarthPlagueis

Well-Known Member
Running with the pot gives you control, the loss is minimal and likely better for the driver than running wide open. I run both with and without pots on various drivers. Don't see a lot of difference and a dimmer sves you raising and lowering lights.



NIce, do you know if running the boards is safer in series versus parallel wiring? What would you say the flowering footprint is?

If you don't use a potentiotmeter you get a bit more power right? I purchased one but not quite sure how much power I'd lose
[/QUOTE]

Any other safety features I could aside from being careful? I know relatively speaking that the circuit is safe, if everything is connected
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Finished the White Dwarf ... Let her go a bit longer ...

She is pretty much at end , around 67 days . She fattened up a bit more , got pretty cloudy and just stop drinking. So I trimmed her up and cut her down the next morning .

She is hanging and drying. She ended up with a large central cola and nug bottom , no lateral branching , but all good. I have more girls to cut down in about 2 1/2 weeks .

I don't expect much as final , but as some dank stink weed , we good.

QB 3500k.

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

hydrohaz

Active Member
Bout to pick up 4 x 132 QB but will run 2 in one tent and 2 in another.

What driver do I need to be able to run 2 at 75 watts each?
 
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