Dry Ice or BHO extraction?
- Thread starter nucleo
- Start date
oldschooltofu
Well-Known Member
dry ice....love dry keif.
i dont want to smoke butane, no matter how purged.
i dont want to smoke butane, no matter how purged.
I am new to all of this. Got my MMAR couple of months a go.
So the Question is How do you use Keif? I have a MFLB and a Vapor Genie.
The dry ice method for me that's for sure
depending on the silk screen
I have tried a few, my home made rig is way easy
at the sewing store they have a round ring to hold the screen
They come in small med large they are wood for $5 bucks
an I pick my own silk for the screen
total cost bout $12
Dry ice at albertsons 1.75 a pound
3 pounds is plenty for a pound of trim or popcorn nug
I put small bud & dry ice in my lil ice chest
stir well
then just put it in the screen rig with gloves of course
massive return
way better than poo tane
SnapsProvolone
Well-Known Member
Butane extraction, purge, winterize in ethanol, purge = absolute
Shatter stores best. Wax has air bubbles so degrades faster.
Shatter stores best. Wax has air bubbles so degrades faster.
Twitch
Well-Known Member
you do know this thread is almost 2 years old????
Twitch
Well-Known Member
and no, just no....
the return from BHO is higher in quality quantity and value
poo tane huh....
Dry ice is a horrible way to extract trichombs. It freezes the product to -106F, which shatters resin heads, resin stocks, and cold bleaches and shatters fine plant product into miniscule dust particles that mixes with the destroyed resin heads and resin stocks.
A quick look at dry ice extracted kief under a microscope will show you what I mean.
I spent a lot of time experimenting with dry ice extraction; different mesh size screens, different amounts of dry ice, different extraction times in the bags, etc..And it all made no difference. The dry ice DESTROYS resin heads and allows for the kief to be completely contaminated by plant dust resulting in a very inferior product.
That's why people think they are getting such good yields of kief when extracting with dry ice. They are yielding useless resin stocks, shattered resin heads, and shit loads of plant dust.
Ya it will still get you high but not nearly the quality a high potent extraction should be.
Dry sift, bubble bags, or solvent extraction's are the way to go. Stay away from dry ice if you want a good potent product.
A quick look at dry ice extracted kief under a microscope will show you what I mean.
I spent a lot of time experimenting with dry ice extraction; different mesh size screens, different amounts of dry ice, different extraction times in the bags, etc..And it all made no difference. The dry ice DESTROYS resin heads and allows for the kief to be completely contaminated by plant dust resulting in a very inferior product.
That's why people think they are getting such good yields of kief when extracting with dry ice. They are yielding useless resin stocks, shattered resin heads, and shit loads of plant dust.
Ya it will still get you high but not nearly the quality a high potent extraction should be.
Dry sift, bubble bags, or solvent extraction's are the way to go. Stay away from dry ice if you want a good potent product.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Some thoughts:
1.0 You can only extract what is there. That appears to be about 20/30% by weight, from the strains we process.
2.0 After about 10% by weight, dry sieve starts to pick up green plant material, so we stop and finish with a solvent.
3.0 Dropping the temperature with dry ice, makes everything more brittle and frangible, so you harvest more non targeted, non green chlorophyll dilutants, making the bulk higher, but the potency is less. Check it with a microscope, and you won't be as impressed.
4.0 We filter our BHO, how do you get the bug poo out of your hash?
5.0 Have you noticed that when someone has nothing factual or compelling to say, that they resort to epithets and innuendos, in an effort to draw non logical emotions into play. In game theory, that is called, if you can't win by the rules, change the rules.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
I don't think there is a finer extract that a well made dry sieve, for retaining the nuances of all the plant terpenes, but the yield is low for quality product. I'm only willing to take the time to make small quantities of a quality dry sieve, because of those properties, and use solvents to produce the bulk of the concentrates we make.
I made a lot of bubble, and then extracted the oil with ethanol, before refining my non polar extraction techniques. Bubble too will make a fine concentrate, but you are similarly limited to how long you can thrash the material before it greens up and I've never seen a dry sieve or bubble extraction in the 20/30% range that wasn't green.
Ya I agree Fade. I've been doing microscope testing of my dry sieve kief at different run times and different amounts of material in my extractor to figure out the best run times etc to get a good potent product without much contamination. I have gotten it down to a good system now with how long I run my material for before I start seeing my kief degrading to a level I don't want.
It's also easy to tell with the kief and how it bonds together easily with little heat when pressing it that it's good quality, fresh, un contaminated kief. As soon as it starts getting too contaminated then the ease of it bonding together when pressed diminishes rapidly.
I'm only collecting about 3% yield from my dry sieve before I stop running it. Then like you I run the same material further afterwards with solvents or I use it for making thc butter. My 3% dry sieve hash is killer potent for a pressed hash product. Resembles a Double O Moroccan. Pressing it with mild heat keeps it nice and blonde throughout the pressed bricks. And the smell of it is just as dank as the ripe flowers. After pressing it I wrap them in cellophane and store them in dark cool containers to preserve the smell and potency.
I used to run a lot of bubble also but just can't do it anymore with the amount of trim and the time it takes with the water and ice etc. it's just to involved to make it worth while anymore. But I do love the flavor of fresh bubble for sure. I miss it. Gotta make a small batch for some personal soon.
Anyone getting yields of 15% or more with those methods is for certain producing a much more contaminated product. A 20-30% yielded product would be nasty IMHO. Definitely un-pressable and full of unwanted crap.
my 3% dry sieve hash
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
Such beautiful dry sieve hash. Is it a full melt BCOG? What screen size(s) do you use? Any pics of the hash unpressed? I always loved the art of dry sieve but I was never able to get mine to melt or even bubble to much really..
Hey WM thank you very much man! Well man I gotta tell you I did a lot of playing around with the kief runs. I read a lot of good advice from forum posts on the net.
This guy explains it very well: https: //www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=94515
(broken link-not sure if RIU mods would want me posting that link to another forum--shift the //over to the left one space to make the link work)
It's tricky to get complete full melt from dry sieve but if you use small popcorn bud or at the least very resiny sugar trim and run it for only a few minutes with the correct mesh sizes for the size of resin heads you are running then yes it will come out beautiful full melt. BUT when the starting material consists of smaller broken up trim that isn't very resin filled then it will seen like it takes longer to get a decent amount of kief from it so people will tend to over run that material which will let in to much plant dust to the kief which will keep it from being of melting quality.
It really depends on your starting material, mesh size/resin head size, and run time for how primo the quality of kief you get out. My material I run for my 3% yield kief is a mix of very small tiny popcorn buds and sugar trim. I've had batches come out completely full melt and others more like very melty but not 100% full melt.
When I do runs of sugar trim, popcorn, and machine trim mixed in then the possibility of yielding full melt kief is gone. The machine trim is too fine and causes a much quicker contamination to the kief.
If you want to really isolate specific resin head sizes then you have to experiment with different mesh sizes for the different starting material you are using to find what will give you full melt quality product. There's no set rule to say "use this mesh size" cause it will vary. But obviously you don't want to run your material with large mesh sizes in the 190-220 ranges cause that will just let way to much unwanted particles into your kief.
I'm doing a run of dry sift later today so I'll take some pics of the kief from today's run and post them up but I don't have any pics of just the powder from my dry sift at the moment. When I run large batches of a mixed starting material for a higher melty selling grade of hash I use 120 or 150 mesh. If I want to do a very high end product I will spend a lot more time finding what screen size I will use to match the starting material I am using..
Hope this all made some kind of sense
This guy explains it very well: https: //www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=94515
(broken link-not sure if RIU mods would want me posting that link to another forum--shift the //over to the left one space to make the link work)
It's tricky to get complete full melt from dry sieve but if you use small popcorn bud or at the least very resiny sugar trim and run it for only a few minutes with the correct mesh sizes for the size of resin heads you are running then yes it will come out beautiful full melt. BUT when the starting material consists of smaller broken up trim that isn't very resin filled then it will seen like it takes longer to get a decent amount of kief from it so people will tend to over run that material which will let in to much plant dust to the kief which will keep it from being of melting quality.
It really depends on your starting material, mesh size/resin head size, and run time for how primo the quality of kief you get out. My material I run for my 3% yield kief is a mix of very small tiny popcorn buds and sugar trim. I've had batches come out completely full melt and others more like very melty but not 100% full melt.
When I do runs of sugar trim, popcorn, and machine trim mixed in then the possibility of yielding full melt kief is gone. The machine trim is too fine and causes a much quicker contamination to the kief.
If you want to really isolate specific resin head sizes then you have to experiment with different mesh sizes for the different starting material you are using to find what will give you full melt quality product. There's no set rule to say "use this mesh size" cause it will vary. But obviously you don't want to run your material with large mesh sizes in the 190-220 ranges cause that will just let way to much unwanted particles into your kief.
I'm doing a run of dry sift later today so I'll take some pics of the kief from today's run and post them up but I don't have any pics of just the powder from my dry sift at the moment. When I run large batches of a mixed starting material for a higher melty selling grade of hash I use 120 or 150 mesh. If I want to do a very high end product I will spend a lot more time finding what screen size I will use to match the starting material I am using..
Hope this all made some kind of sense
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
Yeah man that made a lot of sense! Thanks a lot for going into such detail! Clearly it is an art form!
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Nice color! What strain?Ya I agree Fade. I've been doing microscope testing of my dry sieve kief at different run times and different amounts of material in my extractor to figure out the best run times etc to get a good potent product without much contamination. I have gotten it down to a good system now with how long I run my material for before I start seeing my kief degrading to a level I don't want.
It's also easy to tell with the kief and how it bonds together easily with little heat when pressing it that it's good quality, fresh, un contaminated kief. As soon as it starts getting too contaminated then the ease of it bonding together when pressed diminishes rapidly.
I'm only collecting about 3% yield from my dry sieve before I stop running it. Then like you I run the same material further afterwards with solvents or I use it for making thc butter. My 3% dry sieve hash is killer potent for a pressed hash product. Resembles a Double O Moroccan. Pressing it with mild heat keeps it nice and blonde throughout the pressed bricks. And the smell of it is just as dank as the ripe flowers. After pressing it I wrap them in cellophane and store them in dark cool containers to preserve the smell and potency.
I used to run a lot of bubble also but just can't do it anymore with the amount of trim and the time it takes with the water and ice etc. it's just to involved to make it worth while anymore. But I do love the flavor of fresh bubble for sure. I miss it. Gotta make a small batch for some personal soon.
Anyone getting yields of 15% or more with those methods is for certain producing a much more contaminated product. A 20-30% yielded product would be nasty IMHO. Definitely un-pressable and full of unwanted crap.
my 3% dry sieve hash