Dwc with out full rez change

I've been running a couple homemade 6 plant bubble totes but haven't been doing full rez changes . I breed siamese fighter fish and from experience with fish what I do with my rez is pump out 25 -40 % of nutrients and top up with new nutrients with same amount that I take out . Once a week I would check the ppm and if it gets to high then I just add plain ph'd water . The strain I am running is white rhino , it is a bit sensitive to nutrients so I keep ppm at 5-600 . I'm running canna aqua a+b and all the additives but use calimagic in my rez and canna boost as foliar feed . Plants are in week 4 of flower and full of sugar . Just wanted to know is a full rez change needed. My roots show no signs of root rot and plants seem to be flourishing. I know some people might be reading this and saying wtf foliar feeding with boost . I've done the same system in the past but could never dial the plants in when I used both at same time in rez. I was thinking of only doing a full rez change when I get into using pk 13 14. My totes that I use are 54 litre but only get filled to 40 litre , a inch under my net pots . Has anybody tried this method of growing before ? I seem to have this plant at its best with no deficiencies. I use a shit load of cannazyme but have never needed to use h202. Any peeps out there with similar setup to mine that have had success. Much appreciated on any input

This pheno of white rhino I am running doesn't seem to like it over 800 ppm in final phase of flowering in previous grows but putts out sugar incrusted buds oh and I am using fully tap water at 150 ppm

I used to do weekly changes but have found on this run that I can just replace water they drink with more nute water and I haven't changed it but one time after the first week. I attribute it to keeping my water temps at 67*F this time.

Changing your REZ weekly is a minimum! in later stages I change every 3-4 days if it's drinking a lot. You have no idea what nutrients you plants have used and topping up can only cause further imbalance.

If in the final phase of flowering you can't go above 800 something is wrong. Last few weeks of flowering including shooting powder i average 1600-1800ppm (300ppm starting water).

Make sure you are running some kind of drip clean or clearex to remove salts from your system. If you are not running one of these flushing is pointless because your hydroton has been getting soaked with salts for over 10 weeks.

Ya no... you're one of those over trippers... used to be one myself. You can just keep adding...trust me they're as healthy as can be...

Airwalker16 said:

Ya no... you're one of those over trippers... used to be one myself. You can just keep adding...View attachment 3774496trust me they're as healthy as can be...

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Yeah I trust yah cos mine are healthy as can be too . I'm gonna give this method ago as they are Really happy and putting on good frost. I can probly do a side by side comparison as I have 2 totes next to each other . I'll change one weekly to see any difference

I pushed them to 1000 -1200 ppm and started getting burn at the tips so backed off . Could go to 1000 ppm this run . It wasn't too much of burn so they could probly take more

turnip83 said:

Yeah I trust yah cos mine are healthy as can be too . I'm gonna give this method ago as they are Really happy and putting on good frost. I can probly do a side by side comparison as I have 2 totes next to each other . I'll change one weekly to see any difference

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Change one NEVER. Use the other one for whatever amount of changes you want bud.

Doing the strict Lucas method only requires a changeout when you switch to flowering- the ratio still stays the same in the mix, but I think the plants do really change their eating habits at that time, and its probably good to have a clean slate as far as remaining ratios in the rez.