Earthworms

Any idea if this can work in coco, possibly with an organic mulch layer to house the worms?.

Flowki said:

Any idea if this can work in coco, possibly with an organic mulch layer to house the worms?.

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Worms are fine in coco, pretty sure that's actually what's recommended on the unconventional farmer.

Gumdrawp said:

Worms are fine in coco, pretty sure that's actually what's recommended on the unconventional farmer.

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I see, any idea how they react to synthetic ferts?.

Flowki said:

I see, any idea how they react to synthetic ferts?.

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Not a clue, I think I saw someone say they used them earlier in the thread. I would say strong synthetics would be an automatic no go, but weaker stuff (npk below or around 5ish) is probably alright. I do remember reading that ph matters for them though.

Gumdrawp said:

Not a clue, I think I saw someone say they used them earlier in the thread. I would say strong synthetics would be an automatic no go, but weaker stuff (npk below or around 5ish) is probably alright. I do remember reading that ph matters for them though.

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Yeah it's a strange one. On the one hand they say synthetics is bad for microbes etc etc. On the other hand, fungus knats, root aphids and a whole other host of critters don't seem to mind it at all. Makes you question such statements.

I think it may simply come down to coco not drying out so that the salts don't really get to form. Obviously in soil where you require dry out, having liquid salts solidify every dry cycle is probably not good for any life.

Keeping coco wet is not a problem but as far as I know from being a kid, worms always surface when the soil is too wet, I assumed down to avoiding drowning. But then again coco holds oxygen when wet so maybe that don't matter to the worm.

Any ideas?.

Flowki said:

Any idea if this can work in coco, possibly with an organic mulch layer to house the worms?.

Click to expand...

Quick question... why set on coco? If u don't mind my asking I've always considered it's value as an excellent "pseudo-hydro" for those aiming for that style of grow. I understand wanting to use coco on hand... just seems that Spagnum Peat Moss/compost-worm castings/aeration (long live Calackamas Coot! Lol) might be better for what you're wanting?

Flowki said:

Yeah it's a strange one. On the one hand they say synthetics is bad for microbes etc etc. On the other hand, fungus knats, root aphids and a whole other host of critters don't seem to mind it at all. Makes you question such statements.

I think it may simply come down to coco not drying out so that the salts don't really get to form. Obviously in soil where you require dry out, having liquid salts solidify every dry cycle is probably not good for any life.

Keeping coco wet is not a problem but as far as I know from being a kid, worms always surface when the soil is too wet, I assumed down to avoiding drowning. But then again coco holds oxygen when wet so maybe that don't matter to the worm.

Any ideas?.

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To address the first paragraph - Bugs have MUCH different environmental requirements & survivability thresholds than do the beneficial microbes we seek to nurture. Much like a human beings drinking water with low concentrations of chlorine bleach in it. Our larger bodies are able to handle it no prob - but it's lethal to many microbes, even in minute quantities. Honestly, it's the drying out of the soil (a method most soil growers use) between feedings/waterings that does the most damage to beneficials. That's why a successful "no-till" requires constant moisture for best results.

Flowki said:

Yeah it's a strange one. On the one hand they say synthetics is bad for microbes etc etc. On the other hand, fungus knats, root aphids and a whole other host of critters don't seem to mind it at all. Makes you question such statements.

I think it may simply come down to coco not drying out so that the salts don't really get to form. Obviously in soil where you require dry out, having liquid salts solidify every dry cycle is probably not good for any life.

Keeping coco wet is not a problem but as far as I know from being a kid, worms always surface when the soil is too wet, I assumed down to avoiding drowning. But then again coco holds oxygen when wet so maybe that don't matter to the worm.

Any ideas?.

Click to expand...

The salts statement is a good idea... but inaccurate. Excess salt concentrations are what cause us the problems... not whether they are dry "salt crystals" or not - hence the tendency for hydro water to get more and more "salty", requiring topping off & Rez changes to keep salt concentration at manageable levels - even in an all liquid environment.

Flowki said:

Yeah it's a strange one. On the one hand they say synthetics is bad for microbes etc etc. On the other hand, fungus knats, root aphids and a whole other host of critters don't seem to mind it at all. Makes you question such statements.

I think it may simply come down to coco not drying out so that the salts don't really get to form. Obviously in soil where you require dry out, having liquid salts solidify every dry cycle is probably not good for any life.

Keeping coco wet is not a problem but as far as I know from being a kid, worms always surface when the soil is too wet, I assumed down to avoiding drowning. But then again coco holds oxygen when wet so maybe that don't matter to the worm.

Any ideas?.

Click to expand...

My suggestion is don't use coco... at least with worms... sphagnum + aeration + compost/worm castings, equal parts

kristoffolese said:

My suggestion is don't use coco... at least with worms... sphagnum + aeration + compost/worm castings, equal parts

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Hmm ok good advice as with the other posts, I'll keep it in mind. Coco/synthetic is great don't get me wrong but I also feel the urge to become more efficient/sustainable where possible. The microbes do still survive in coco/synthetic I know this much, but certain elements like feeding with daily run off does not appear ideal for them.

Gumdrawp said:

Not a clue, I think I saw someone say they used them earlier in the thread. I would say strong synthetics would be an automatic no go, but weaker stuff (npk below or around 5ish) is probably alright. I do remember reading that ph matters for them though.

Click to expand...

i have a 20 year old compost pit with only organic food used. i then mix crushed limestone in it time to time and rotate the pile over. i then cover it with hey so i dont loose any percentage of my n-p-k. so i will take organic pro mix one bag dump out into tub big enough to fit the whole cube when taken out of the bag, i then mix a 5 gallon bucket of crushed limestone i live on the tug hill in ny and we have a very nice quarry, ok so then i add a 3 gallon bucket of sand make sure it is new and does not have any ants in the sand, then last i add three 5 gallon buckets of my organic compost that i have been working with for twenty years. Ok about the worms-the compost pile over time will become healthier and healtier creating what i call super worms along with all sorts of healthy microorganism that help fight pest and diesease i use this mixture indoors and it does help with fighting pest and dieases, the worms are key they creat air pockets in your soil so it doesnt become to compact on your roots as well as leaves behind precious casting, for if by chance fungus knats become a problem i use neem cakes by top dressing litly with the neem cakes as well i brew a tea by using 5 tblsp of neem cake to 5 gallons of water i let sit with fish pump oxygenating the water for four hours then water infected plants because the knats will leave larva in your soil and they feed on the roots once you can destroy the larva your on your way to being fungal knat free 20 chromosomes

all about the healthy psymbiotic relationships for example the nitryfiyng bacteria fixes nitrogen out of the air and helps the plant by providing much needed nitrogen this is just a example i suggest reading the book soil