EB series build complete, but one side brighter than the other?

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's a good catch. I wonder what % that driver is underrated if any. I'm thinking like the B series drivers, where without a pot wired in it's just gonna run wide open. Am I crazy or is that a valid possibility?

Datasheet says max. is up to 108% but there is a tolerance and not all drivers go that high.
Some deliver only 102%, the most 105-106%.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I think I'm starting to understand. I'm going to give it a go at 700mah. See what happens.

Yeah, especially when turnig the lamp on, the poti should be in the low 50% range. When they get warmer, crank it up.
It could be, there is a little "step back" right before the poti reach the max.setting. This would be a hint that the driver is switching into another state and regulates the current down to be able to still run the light, just on a bit lower current.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, not really enough of a buffer to risk it without knowing. That's a pro job there @Randomblame , good stuff.

Ah, wahh!?! Thanks for compliments! But it's only a matter of time and practice. If you come here regularly, you will be able to internalize and soak-up all the knowledge as quickly as I and other did ..!

BTW,
I like to have an additional switch in my dimmer circuits to manually switch the dimming function on and off. Like a mini boost, Lol!
 

Doctor Derp

Well-Known Member
Ah, wahh!?! Thanks for compliments! But it's only a matter of time and practice. If you come here regularly, you will be able to internalize and soak-up all the knowledge as quickly as I and other did ..!

BTW,
I like to have an additional switch in my dimmer circuits to manually switch the dimming function on and off. Like a mini boost, Lol!
Hah! and here I was just thinking "I wonder if they make a 100k pot with an "open" position..."
 

Doctor Derp

Well-Known Member
I tried it at 700Mah, and I'm getting 179v, but I'll measure it again when I get the chance to run them longer.

Thank you guys for all the help. Thought I'd messed up right at the finish line.

Hey, Good stuff! Now make sure we get to see the results of all your struggles when you put your shiny new light to work. :bigjoint:
 

Doctor Derp

Well-Known Member
Haha. Hope it'll be some real good results :hump:
Hey, man. This is how we learn. I've been fortunate enough to pick up all of these skills either from work or because another hobby required them. (Reefkeeping / Aquaculture, anyone?) As long as you've a good head on your shoulders and decent critical thinking skills you can find the solutions or inspiration for them somewhere online. If not, just drop a post in a relevant sub-forum and I'm sure there are plenty of helpful folks to get you pointed in the right direction.
Good luck with your grows!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I tried it at 700Mah, and I'm getting 179v, but I'll measure it again when I get the chance to run them longer.

Thank you guys for all the help. Thought I'd messed up right at the finish line.

Sorry,
I fall asleep yesterday with my tablet in hands and today I still hold it when I woke up, LMFAO!

If you messure voltage without load you will always see 179v, therefor it's called no load voltage.
You can use a small A/V-meter like the one below. Add it to the dc-circuit and it will show you the current voltage and current values. You need the one with 300v/10A rating it has a built-in shunt and only need low voltage (5-30v/20mA), take a 9v battery if you have no 12v driver. If you have one, for instance for some PC-fans, you can connect it there.

They cost ~5$, but they are available with different max. values from 30-300V and 10-200A(additional shunt).
 

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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hah! and here I was just thinking "I wonder if they make a 100k pot with an "open" position..."
Yepp,
100k poti:s with switch exsists! Think on car and home stereo systems, they are mostly used in this area.
There are even "motorized" poti's with remote control.
 
Sorry,
I fall asleep yesterday with my tablet in hands and today I still hold it when I woke up, LMFAO!

If you messure voltage without load you will always see 179v, therefor it's called no load voltage.
You can use a small A/V-meter like the one below. Add it to the dc-circuit and it will show you the current voltage and current values. You need the one with 300v/10A rating it has a built-in shunt and only need low voltage (5-30v/20mA), take a 9v battery if you have no 12v driver. If you have one, for instance for some PC-fans, you can connect it there.

They cost ~5$, but they are available with different max. values from 30-300V and 10-200A(additional shunt).
Haha. Sleep 'foruming.'

I'll pick one of those AV meters up, but checked the Voltage under load 22.3v on the first strip and 21v on the last with 178v overall. Thank you
 
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