Electrician help please!!

Ok My grow room is almost complete and need to run power to my steel building that's about 75 feet from my house electrical box it's a 200 amp and I want to have a 60 amp panel in my steel building. I want to use direct bury wire. Do I need 6 gauge 2 wire or 6 gauge 4 wire? Do I need a grounding rod? And do I just connect the wire to a 30 amp breaker and run wire to my building straight to the box. Should I also install a disconnect out there? If possible I would like step by step directions on doing this. I searched online so I'm kind of familiar with it but not 100% I can do most of the work myself and have a buddy that's a electrician to wire it directly.
Thanks for your help

i'm following this one. i just watched a this old house about a similar thing. i'm about 100 yards away though.

here's what i remember: 4 single wires in conduit 18" buried, 6 ft grounding rod at shed, sub panel at shed, 6 gauge 4 wire from panel inside to junction box outside. probably missing a few things i'm sure.

try to find the episode and watch it: ask this old house about wiring up a shed for lights and EV charger.

rkymtnman said:

i'm following this one. i just watched a this old house about a similar thing. i'm about 100 yards away though.

here's what i remember: 4 single wires in conduit 18" buried, 6 ft grounding rod at shed, sub panel at shed, 6 gauge 4 wire from panel inside to junction box outside. probably missing a few things i'm sure.

try to find the episode and watch it: ask this old house about wiring up a shed for lights and EV charger.

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Thank you. Do you know if I can use direct bury wire instead of using conduit?

UF is the type of wire that can be direct buried. I'm not an electrician, but I think 60 amps exceeds the rating of 6 gage UF wire, so a smaller main breaker in the subpanel would be needed.

If I were doing this work, I'd run wire through conduit as indicated by @rkymtnman

brewbeer said:

UF is the type of wire that can be direct buried. I'm not an electrician, but I think 60 amps exceeds the rating of 6 gage UF wire, so a smaller main breaker in the subpanel would be needed.

If I were doing this work, I'd run wire through conduit as indicated by @rkymtnman

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Not an electrician either, but #6 wire is heavy enough for a 60amp circuit. I know from doing hvac, a 10kw heat package requires a 60 amp breaker on #6 wire

NinjaShamen said:

Not an electrician either, but #6 wire is heavy enough for a 60amp circuit. I know from doing hvac, a 10kw heat package requires a 60 amp breaker on #6 wire

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UF and Romex are different types of wire and may be rated differently. Bottom line, check the specs on the specific brand/type/gage of wire you are looking at purchasing before you buy.

I decided to go with 2-2-2-4 mhf in conduit. Thanks guys

I have a shed, similar setup. Check my sig.

200amp house feed incomer going to 70amp panel in the shed. I ran #4 for the hots just to be safe, #6 for neutral and #8 for green, all within rating and all in conduit at 18". I hit a lump near the house and had to come up shallower than that: inspector had me concrete over it, no problems.

Be sure to size the conduit correctly: there are NEC ratings for max pipe capacity. I foolishly sunk too small a conduit in my footings pour and couldn't use it when I came to wire; had to feed through the wall instead which looks messy.

Definitely need a ground rod. I ran two. Remember to separate your buses in the sub panel.

You say you want 60amp panel but running from a 30a breaker. Which is it? Or are you talking only about the panel rating?

PS I don't think you have to run a disconnect, but don't quote me on that. In fact don't quote me on anything.

From my sub I ran a 240v circuit for AC and this does have an exterior disconnect as it spurs separate breakers for two condensers outdoors.

Above all else, I would say if you're not comfortable with this, get a pro to do it.

We are literally talking a matter of life & death, so why cut corners?

I am just running the wires through the conduit and running wire all the way to the boxes and having a electrician wire everything up to keep cost down Not sure yet on what I'm gonna do breaker wise. It was suggested that I use a 90 amp dp breaker in the house box though