Enaks 12x CXB3590 COB 2 panel DIY LED

Enak11

Member
I am on day 58 of flowering (4 we veg) and could use some help figuring out if I'm ready to harvest. The trichomes look cloudy to me but I don't see any amber. Most of the hairs have turned orange and brown but there are a few white ones here and there. I tried to take a pic through my loupe but it might be a little blurry. This is g13 pineapple express. Store I bought seeds from say 9-10 weeks for flowering. Let me know if I can provide additional that would help.

I think the plants experienced a little light burn from having the lights too close and at about 70%. I knocked it down to 50% and raised it a bit and that seems to have helped.
 

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MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
I am on day 58 of flowering (4 we veg) and could use some help figuring out if I'm ready to harvest. The trichomes look cloudy to me but I don't see any amber. Most of the hairs have turned orange and brown but there are a few white ones here and there. I tried to take a pic through my loupe but it might be a little blurry. This is g13 pineapple express. Store I bought seeds from say 9-10 weeks for flowering. Let me know if I can provide additional that would help.

I think the plants experienced a little light burn from having the lights too close and at about 70%. I knocked it down to 50% and raised it a bit and that seems to have helped.
I saw some clear I beleive in the second picture at the top I usually wait until I start to see some ambers and then start to flush. THC is what people seem to want where I'm at, if you want to go more the CBD route wait until they are at the ratio you prefer.
I'm running the express as well and that thing shot up like a beast, putting down 28%... Just as frosty as yours so I hope you get it tested! I would love to see what others are getting.

As for the light.. If it's cobs you can have it at a foot full strength without burning. I'm pushing 16at1400(850W) and they just chill at 8" so do what you like with that info
 

Enak11

Member
I saw some clear I beleive in the second picture at the top I usually wait until I start to see some ambers and then start to flush. THC is what people seem to want where I'm at, if you want to go more the CBD route wait until they are at the ratio you prefer.
I'm running the express as well and that thing shot up like a beast, putting down 28%... Just as frosty as yours so I hope you get it tested! I would love to see what others are getting.

As for the light.. If it's cobs you can have it at a foot full strength without burning. I'm pushing 16at1400(850W) and they just chill at 8" so do what you like with that info
I have 12 cobs in a 4x4 over just 5 plants. Wouldn't full power be overkill?
 

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
I have 12 cobs in a 4x4 over just 5 plants. Wouldn't full power be overkill?
Depends on drive current, I only have two plants and they take up the whole 4x4 area.. They have vegged a bit more than a month and 2 weeks... So that's your call... I hit 1200ppfs at 12" with reflectors and the same at about 6-8" without... No burning at all unless the plant grows into a reflector or is like 1inch away
 

unbindmoney

Active Member
Lol holy shit I actually was preparing to build this setup albeit in a 700 ma - 1.4 a driver, never thought of going as high as 1750 ma. Do you have any regrets going with a bigger amperage driver? Should I do the same? From what I'm hearing, just dimming down one of thes bigger amperage drivers will have the same effect as lets say a 700 ma driver, right?

Looking to get CXB3590 3500k 36V (x12), 3 Drivers (could even go with the new 320h series), and I planned on using 3 5.886" x 40" heatsinks = 1600 sq in cooled, and since running 4 COBs at 1.4 a will create a Heat Watt of 85, and 85 x 17 sq in = 1445 sq in. Might need to do more heatsink calculations if i plan on going with a bigger amp driver.

So I guess the question is, if you could choose now would you go with a 1.4a Driver or stay with your current 1.75 a Driver? I heard you were having heat issues so my guess was that going with a 1.4a driver will cause less heat than the bigger one and as I'm using a passive heatsink, I want to get a bigger heatsink than necessary for better light spread and more heat absorption.
 

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Lol holy shit I actually was preparing to build this setup albeit in a 700 ma - 1.4 a driver, never thought of going as high as 1750 ma. Do you have any regrets going with a bigger amperage driver? Should I do the same? From what I'm hearing, just dimming down one of thes bigger amperage drivers will have the same effect as lets say a 700 ma driver, right?

Looking to get CXB3590 3500k 36V (x12), 3 Drivers (could even go with the new 320h series), and I planned on using 3 5.886" x 40" heatsinks = 1600 sq in cooled, and since running 4 COBs at 1.4 a will create a Heat Watt of 85, and 85 x 17 sq in = 1445 sq in. Might need to do more heatsink calculations if i plan on going with a bigger amp driver.

So I guess the question is, if you could choose now would you go with a 1.4a Driver or stay with your current 1.75 a Driver? I heard you were having heat issues so my guess was that going with a 1.4a driver will cause less heat than the bigger one and as I'm using a passive heatsink, I want to get a bigger heatsink than necessary for better light spread and more heat absorption.
Maybe I had a mis print, Im using a 1400mA driver currently and running them at 6-9in with no reflections.Those are good heatsinks but Im not that great at calculating the cooling requirements. Im using this.

CXB3590DB36V4000K 16 COBS @1.4A ON PASSIVEHEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 850.0
Cobs power watts: 782
Total voltage forward: 558
Total lumens: 154163
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 430
Total PPF: 1947.9
PPFD based on canopy area: 1310.44
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 26.88
Cob efficiency: 61.03%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 48.88
Voltage forward per cob: 34.89
Lumens per watt: 197.14
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 305
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.53 / 70CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 363 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 121 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.87
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $46.4
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $69.35
Cost per cob: $50.17
Heatsink cost per inch cut: PASSIVE
Total cobs cost: $803

I wouldnt mind this though and running them higher. but the efficiency isnt where I would like it.

CXB3590DB36V4000K 16 COBS @1.75A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 1080.43
Cobs power watts: 994
Total voltage forward: 568
Total lumens: 176137
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 491
Total PPF: 2224.23
PPFD based on canopy area: 1496.34
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 30.69
Cob efficiency: 54.86%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 62.13
Voltage forward per cob: 35.49
Lumens per watt: 177.2
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 449
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.53 / 70CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 534 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 178 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.63
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $58.84
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $88.01
Cost per cob: $50.17
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $803
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $352
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $117
 

unbindmoney

Active Member
Maybe I had a mis print, Im using a 1400mA driver currently and running them at 6-9in with no reflections.Those are good heatsinks but Im not that great at calculating the cooling requirements. Im using this.

CXB3590DB36V4000K 16 COBS @1.4A ON PASSIVEHEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 850.0
Cobs power watts: 782
Total voltage forward: 558
Total lumens: 154163
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 430
Total PPF: 1947.9
PPFD based on canopy area: 1310.44
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 26.88
Cob efficiency: 61.03%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 48.88
Voltage forward per cob: 34.89
Lumens per watt: 197.14
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 305
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.53 / 70CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 363 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 121 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.87
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $46.4
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $69.35
Cost per cob: $50.17
Heatsink cost per inch cut: PASSIVE
Total cobs cost: $803

I wouldnt mind this though and running them higher. but the efficiency isnt where I would like it.

CXB3590DB36V4000K 16 COBS @1.75A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 1080.43
Cobs power watts: 994
Total voltage forward: 568
Total lumens: 176137
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 491
Total PPF: 2224.23
PPFD based on canopy area: 1496.34
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 30.69
Cob efficiency: 54.86%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 62.13
Voltage forward per cob: 35.49
Lumens per watt: 177.2
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 449
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.53 / 70CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 534 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 178 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.63
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $58.84
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $88.01
Cost per cob: $50.17
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $803
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $352
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $117
I see you're using 4000K instead of 3500K, and if I'm comparing it to my calculations the 4000k has better lumens/w and PAR watts than the 3500k according to bggrass's calculator. So is 4000k better than a 3500k for this type of setup?
 

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
I see you're using 4000K instead of 3500K, and if I'm comparing it to my calculations the 4000k has better lumens/w and PAR watts than the 3500k according to bggrass's calculator. So is 4000k better than a 3500k for this type of setup?
Its not better per say, just a preference. its only 70CRI but better PPF/D and Im planning on using 80-90CRI for my next light and see if it does better as a whole grow light. with active cooling $800-900 light


1212 2700K80Min 40 COBS @500 mA ON 5.88 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 736.06
Cobs power watts: 677.17
Total voltage forward: 1354.34
Total lumens: 113510.06
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 310.51
Total PPF: 1697.48
PPFD based on canopy area: 1141.97
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 19.41
Cob efficiency: 50.95%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 42.32
Voltage forward per cob: 33.86
Lumens per watt: 167.62
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.27in/14/1.0in
Heatsink area per inch: 260.01 cm^2
Total heat watts: 331.81
umol/s/W: 2.51 LER: 329.00 QER: 4.92
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 153 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 51 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.55
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $39.75
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $59.62
Cost per cob: $12.0
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $1.74
Total cobs cost: $480.0
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $266.22
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $88.74
 

unbindmoney

Active Member
Its not better per say, just a preference. its only 70CRI but better PPF/D and Im planning on using 80-90CRI for my next light and see if it does better as a whole grow light. with active cooling $800-900 light


1212 2700K80Min 40 COBS @500 mA ON 5.88 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 736.06
Cobs power watts: 677.17
Total voltage forward: 1354.34
Total lumens: 113510.06
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 310.51
Total PPF: 1697.48
PPFD based on canopy area: 1141.97
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 19.41
Cob efficiency: 50.95%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 42.32
Voltage forward per cob: 33.86
Lumens per watt: 167.62
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.27in/14/1.0in
Heatsink area per inch: 260.01 cm^2
Total heat watts: 331.81
umol/s/W: 2.51 LER: 329.00 QER: 4.92
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 153 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 51 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.55
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $39.75
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $59.62
Cost per cob: $12.0
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $1.74
Total cobs cost: $480.0
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $266.22
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $88.74
For just the sake of flowering, which one would you use 3500k or 4000k? I plan on making a seperate Vegetation tent
 

Enak11

Member
Lol holy shit I actually was preparing to build this setup albeit in a 700 ma - 1.4 a driver, never thought of going as high as 1750 ma. Do you have any regrets going with a bigger amperage driver? Should I do the same? From what I'm hearing, just dimming down one of thes bigger amperage drivers will have the same effect as lets say a 700 ma driver, right?

Looking to get CXB3590 3500k 36V (x12), 3 Drivers (could even go with the new 320h series), and I planned on using 3 5.886" x 40" heatsinks = 1600 sq in cooled, and since running 4 COBs at 1.4 a will create a Heat Watt of 85, and 85 x 17 sq in = 1445 sq in. Might need to do more heatsink calculations if i plan on going with a bigger amp driver.

So I guess the question is, if you could choose now would you go with a 1.4a Driver or stay with your current 1.75 a Driver? I heard you were having heat issues so my guess was that going with a 1.4a driver will cause less heat than the bigger one and as I'm using a passive heatsink, I want to get a bigger heatsink than necessary for better light spread and more heat absorption.
In retrospect I'm thinking the 1750ma drivers are more than I need, I currently have the lights at 50% power because the plant tops got bleached when I had them at 70%. Since turning them down the plants have been looking much better. I also think they put off a lot of heat when they are turned up.
 

unbindmoney

Active Member
In retrospect I'm thinking the 1750ma drivers are more than I need, I currently have the lights at 50% power because the plant tops got bleached when I had them at 70%. Since turning them down the plants have been looking much better. I also think they put off a lot of heat when they are turned up.
Thanks for the info!
 

unbindmoney

Active Member
After doing the math I think I'll go with this setup:

HLG 240h-1400b (x3)
CXB3590 36v 3500K (x15)
HUSA Passive HeatSink (x3)

So one Driver will power 5 COBs at 75% which would equal to 1.05mA. Therefore giving me a COB efficiency of 61.5% while generating 567 W of power at the wall. Also can lower the dimming to 700 mA or up it to 1.4 a depending on heat and other numerous factors.

What do you guys think? If I run it all 5 COBs in the row @ 1.4 a I might need a fan or another heatsink as the 5.886" one at HUSA requires 49" for cooling and I have a 48"x48" tent.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
After doing the math I think I'll go with this setup:

HLG 240h-1400b (x3)
CXB3590 36v 3500K (x15)
HUSA Passive HeatSink (x3)

So one Driver will power 5 COBs at 75% which would equal to 1.05mA. Therefore giving me a COB efficiency of 61.5% while generating 567 W of power at the wall. Also can lower the dimming to 700 mA or up it to 1.4 a depending on heat and other numerous factors.

What do you guys think? If I run it all 5 COBs in the row @ 1.4 a I might need a fan or another heatsink as the 5.886" one at HUSA requires 49" for cooling and I have a 48"x48" tent.
Use 2 fans. 140mm fit perfectly.20160212_220151.jpg
 

HalfBee

Well-Known Member
Each side's fans run to a 12v (smaller brick next to main driver) supply. The fans held on by (looks to me)
side drilled holes in outer fin and then zip tied to it thru the screw holes in the fan housing...

The drivers might share an AC mains line so there is only 1 cord to the assembly (can't really tell in photo).
@Airwalker16 did we ever get a shot of that fixture finished, hung and lit up? I swear I've seen that shot used
in dozens of posts, but can't recall a finished fixture... hmm...

Great none the less...
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Each side's fans run to a 12v (smaller brick next to main driver) supply. The fans held on by (looks to me)
side drilled holes in outer fin and then zip tied to it thru the screw holes in the fan housing...

The drivers might share an AC mains line so there is only 1 cord to the assembly (can't really tell in photo).
@Airwalker16 did we ever get a shot of that fixture finished, hung and lit up? I swear I've seen that shot used
in dozens of posts, but can't recall a finished fixture... hmm...

Great none the less...
Oh yeah, you e seen it. Haha. And yeah I used zip ties to mount the fans.
Here's the light in action. 20161017_140259.jpg 20160218_052553.jpg
 
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