|FCG|Frank
Active Member
6 gal (~22L)
I was planning a drain every 10 days.
|FCG|Frank's 1st Grow: Royal Haze | Area51 LED, CO2, Bubbleponics
- Thread starter |FCG|Frank
- Start date
I was planning a drain every 10 days.
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
I remembered why I ordered it. I was looking at lightrail3.com then checked their facebook and saw a 25% off coupon, so decided to jump on it. I sometimes make impulse purchases when I'm high.
The PAR200 inda gro is 26" long but the canopy will be 48" in length, so I had figured on that magical night that a lightrail might be useful (and kind of cool) to make sure the light covers everything evenly.
I'll probably include it in the tent since I have it now but once I get a bigger tent I'll use it in that one.
Beefbisquit
Well-Known Member
So, about 55ml of Sensi Grow/Bloom every 10 days... and 22ml of each additive every 10 days.
Average Flowering is about 9 weeks, or 63 days. 6.3 water changes, x 55ml = 347ml for one flowering cycle. I'd say you're going to use a bit more than that, due to top-ups, etc. But 1L should last you two grow cycles.
For the additives, 6.3 water changes, x 22ml = 139ml each flowering cycle, if you were to use it for the entire flowering cycle. Most of them, you will not use the entire time.
You can see how the cost is really quite reasonable.
You can also leave out some of the more expensive nutrients if you want to.
Younger plants are going to require waaaay less nutes too....
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
So in-between res drains I just top off with RO water every day?
Beefbisquit
Well-Known Member
I've read all kinds of different methods, but you'd be best off getting the finer details from someone more knowledgeable about hydro than I.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Frank, get a book man. You don't want to start hydro without proper knowledge and/or a guide you can refer to instead begging for help here. Believe it or not, Barnes and Noble has a nice selection that can be ordered on line. I just bought Jorge Cervantes newest. It's quite extensive.
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
I have Cervantes' Indoor/Outdoor Medical Grower's Bible and I read it cover to cover.
Are you talking about another one?
Are you talking about another one?
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
Scotch, here are revised costs after speaking with AN directly.
This chart is for a 6 gal DWC with a drain and replenish every 7 days.
For a full grow and the whole shabang you're looking at 85$-166$ in costs per grow. If you forego all the fancy supps and stick to nutes+basic sups (B-52, voodoo) the AN nutes cost less than 35$ for an entire grow.
Thanks Beef for clearing some things up and I for clearing the rest.
This chart is for a 6 gal DWC with a drain and replenish every 7 days.
For a full grow and the whole shabang you're looking at 85$-166$ in costs per grow. If you forego all the fancy supps and stick to nutes+basic sups (B-52, voodoo) the AN nutes cost less than 35$ for an entire grow.
Thanks Beef for clearing some things up and I for clearing the rest.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
My bad. It's Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Growers Handbook - official course book Oaksterdam University http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/marijuana-growers-handbook-ed-rosenthal/1101005592. holy shit. I paid $22.50 WITH A 25% DISCOUNT COUPON at B & N, but I was able to look through 5 different books first, so not bad.
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
*shwoo*
Those numbers look a lot better. Much more realistic.
I would suggest Ed R.'s book, probably the most progressive and informative one I have read out of my four 1 1/2" thick books.
-Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Grower's Handbook ("Official Course Book of Oaksterdam Uni.")
Yea ^^ Petflora's got it. damn good book.
Those numbers look a lot better. Much more realistic.
I would suggest Ed R.'s book, probably the most progressive and informative one I have read out of my four 1 1/2" thick books.
-Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Grower's Handbook ("Official Course Book of Oaksterdam Uni.")
Yea ^^ Petflora's got it. damn good book.
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
Thanks for the suggestion. I was not impressed by Cervantes' books or DVD at ALL, so hopefully this one delivers 
mamakush
Active Member
I like the layout of your first post, looks good.
If you don't mind my asking, when you stated the light sources you're using, you put (-60) and (-90) after each. Why is that? I'm not familiar with the Area 51 lights. When you say 280 watts, do you mean 280 LED watts or actual watts?
If you don't mind my asking, when you stated the light sources you're using, you put (-60) and (-90) after each. Why is that? I'm not familiar with the Area 51 lights. When you say 280 watts, do you mean 280 LED watts or actual watts?
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
Hey mamakush.
-60 and -90 are model numbers.
The A51-60 is a 110W LED, and the A51-90 a 170W LED. 280W of LED wattage must equal a 400W HPS approx.
-60 and -90 are model numbers.
The A51-60 is a 110W LED, and the A51-90 a 170W LED. 280W of LED wattage must equal a 400W HPS approx.
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
I got Rosenthal's book (eBook) and it made for some very interesting reading.
-Lightrails will increase yield 10-20% even if the lightrail moves a single light by just a foot. That is because as the light move the angle hitting the plant changes as well which pushes plant to grow more. I guess my lightrail was a great purchase, then. Perhaps a sign from the Gods of Kobol?
-PAR is the only trustworthy unit of measurement for our lights, so I ordered an Apogee PAR meter so I can test my lights properly
-2000umol is what the sun sheds out... a 1000W HID can output 1000umol. I wonder what a 420W Indagro outputs.
-Size or age of the plant has nothing to do with potency. I was surprised by this.
-light, CO2 and temperature are the main variables in determining yield indoors. So enough PAR, enough CO2 and proper temps. Easy peasy.
Now the book says plants use plenty of the blue spectrum and red. So why are modern LED white and red? What happened to the blue?
And how do LED provide those important UVB the plant needs to produce THC? LED don't produce UVB afaik?
-Lightrails will increase yield 10-20% even if the lightrail moves a single light by just a foot. That is because as the light move the angle hitting the plant changes as well which pushes plant to grow more. I guess my lightrail was a great purchase, then. Perhaps a sign from the Gods of Kobol?
-PAR is the only trustworthy unit of measurement for our lights, so I ordered an Apogee PAR meter so I can test my lights properly
-2000umol is what the sun sheds out... a 1000W HID can output 1000umol. I wonder what a 420W Indagro outputs.
-Size or age of the plant has nothing to do with potency. I was surprised by this.
-light, CO2 and temperature are the main variables in determining yield indoors. So enough PAR, enough CO2 and proper temps. Easy peasy.
Now the book says plants use plenty of the blue spectrum and red. So why are modern LED white and red? What happened to the blue?
And how do LED provide those important UVB the plant needs to produce THC? LED don't produce UVB afaik?
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
"Now the book says plants use plenty of the blue spectrum and red. So why are modern LED white and red? What happened to the blue?"
They have found that too narrow of blue wavelengths had caused the notorious LED bleaching *gasp* either from the light's height, or the diodes lens. I think it was specifically 420-430nm that was trouble?
The White LED's..
-Cool White 5000-6500k
-Neutral White 4000-5000k
-Warm White 2700-4000k
..cover a much wider spectrum than most if not all led's- including that blue wavelength that was causing the bleaching. So many ppl have slowly converted to running a majority of variety of White's, and then filling in the gaps with the specific wavelengths they need/want to revamp. (430, 460, 630, 660, etc)
Sounds like it's working out pretty well too, been looking at DIY'ing a few panels in the future.
They have found that too narrow of blue wavelengths had caused the notorious LED bleaching *gasp* either from the light's height, or the diodes lens. I think it was specifically 420-430nm that was trouble?
The White LED's..
-Cool White 5000-6500k
-Neutral White 4000-5000k
-Warm White 2700-4000k
..cover a much wider spectrum than most if not all led's- including that blue wavelength that was causing the bleaching. So many ppl have slowly converted to running a majority of variety of White's, and then filling in the gaps with the specific wavelengths they need/want to revamp. (430, 460, 630, 660, etc)
Sounds like it's working out pretty well too, been looking at DIY'ing a few panels in the future.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
^^ Spot on. Odd that 420 is not good for the plants, but that's a fact, Jack
The problem with PAR is that it was misunderstood. That combined with the fact that the other spectrum diodes were not readily available or efficient
White contains all the colors, in which percentages depends on whether the bulb/diode is CW... NW... WW
The problem with PAR is that it was misunderstood. That combined with the fact that the other spectrum diodes were not readily available or efficient
White contains all the colors, in which percentages depends on whether the bulb/diode is CW... NW... WW
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
Cali Lightworks just started added UVB to their LED panels, so I guess it`s true
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
Hardcopy of Rosenthal's book got here.
Isn't funny how it's just 2 years old and already outdated on some stuff? Medical textbooks become out of date every year, but botany? It's an amazing science
Isn't funny how it's just 2 years old and already outdated on some stuff? Medical textbooks become out of date every year, but botany? It's an amazing science
|FCG|Frank
Active Member
I spent all day planning my second grow area (4x8 tent, DIY RDWC.. yihaa!) and I haven't even started the first one yet... it's frustrating having to wait for your things to get to you.
On another note, I thouht I'd share this bit with the forums. I wrote it myself and it might come in handy for other growers who need a quick fact sheet:
On another note, I thouht I'd share this bit with the forums. I wrote it myself and it might come in handy for other growers who need a quick fact sheet: