First build, few questions on COBs.

I've ordered a kit from King Brtie after lurking here and reddit for a while. I'm on my first grow. I have a 4x2x6 tent and one Maxsisun 300W I planed on getting another maxsisun but decied to build my own COB lights. I can't post links yet, but i have a King Brite Kit on the way, its 4 Citizen CLU048 1212 COBs and a MW driver HLG-185H-C1400B. First is this kit plus my 300W enough for a 4x2 tent. Second I want to double check i'm wiring in series right since my driver is constant current also can i add a dimmer if the driver is constant current?

The last digit of the MW part number indicates dimming type. A is 50-100% dimming with an internal adjustment, B is 10-100% dimming with two wires for connection to an external 100K potentiometer. 0 to10V or PWM can also be used.
30-40 watts of quality LED per square foot is recommended. I'm not familiar with the Maxixun, but it may not be very efficient and it only consumes 142 watts. In other words, it's a 142 watt light, not 300. The Citizen 1212's and MW driver is quality stuff.

I run 8 cobs at 50w each in a 2'x4'. It's basically identical to 2 of your 1212 kits. It's probably at the high end of what you'd want for wattage in 8sqft but that's a good thing, especially with a dimmer.
I think you'll do decent with your 200w kit and your other light since you'll get some spillover light from your 1212's helping the other light.
For dimming, buy a 100k ohm potentiometer and a 10k resistor. You can use it just as it is or you can mount the potentiometer in a small project box. There are plenty of threads for info on adding a pot. Wiring in series is simple.

Thanks for the help. I was just going over the parts list it'll come with a "TOCOS (soldered) 100K linear potentiometer" so thats covered. Now i just need to build a frame. I was wondering if anyone has built a fold-able frame. I'd like something rectangle while in my tent but then fold straight out for my closet kinda like a 4' T5. It'll probably be closer to 3 feet when spread out.

can anyone point me to a thread teaching one how to wire 2 driver together. Wondering if they have to both be 1.4 constant current, or can you mix match the volts and amps.

Kenny Grows said:

can anyone point me to a thread teaching one how to wire 2 driver together. Wondering if they have to both be 1.4 constant current, or can you mix match the volts and amps.

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Do yourself a favor and do not wire diffent drivers together. You can hook different drivers to one wallplug but there is no need to wire them together. Have a look at this thread:

https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-leds-how-to-power-them.801554/

Although you can connect two identical CC drivers under certain circumstances and also the use of two CV drivers is possible, it is not recommended.
For an LED noob like you I would recommend to use a 36v CV / CC driver like a HLG-185H or HLG-240H-36A and connect all the COB's in parallel!
36v is not life-threatening, 143v is!!!

But since you already have a suitable driver for your four 1212's, you only need to connect them in series. There is no reason to connect different drivers together.
Voltage and current is optimal for your 4 36v COB's.

Randomblame said:

But since you already have a suitable driver for your four 1212's, you only need to connect them in series. There is no reason to connect different drivers together.
Voltage and current is optimal for your 4 36v COB's.

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Thanks for quick reply. I'm at work so I haven't read though your link. But I wanted to add 4 Samsung or Brigdelux light strips in the middle of frame. I have a rectangular 2x4 tent so I want COBs on the corners and the lights strips going through the middle. I'll read through your link in a few hrs and see if I can't find out how.

Ah, okay!
The 4ft strips are 45-46v, you could wire them also in series like the COB's but on an additional HLG-185H-C1050B and use a 50k instead of two 100k potentiometers to dimm both drivers in once.
Would be ~190-200w from the strips + ~190-200w from COB's an a ton of light in a small 2" 4' tent. You could easily use it in a 4" 4' and still getting good results. So, separate circuits for COB's and strips but a common 50k poti to dimm both drivers together.

After reading through the first dozen or so pages from the thread you linked and finding this thread you've also posted to(thanks for helping us newbies btw) I think I've got it. I want to use Wagos and put all positive wires in a wago all negatives in a second one and all ground wires in third wago, and we're talking only on the AC side, right just want to double check. Also on a side note i got my Kingbrite kit in, it's up and running just need to build a frame for it this weekend. I can't believe how bright the 1212's are i wasn't ready even after reading through here. I'm still seeing stars

I would really really suggest that you don't wire all the the mains leads together using Wagos. You're way better off terminating each power supply lead with 15A male plugs and plugging them all into a power strip. Pinching pennies here might burn your house/apartment/dorm room/mom's basement to the ground.

Rider509 said:

You're way better off terminating each power supply lead with 15A male plugs and plugging them all into a power strip.

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So do you mean give each driver its own wall plug, like cutting and using the wall side of an extension cord for each driver? Is 400W too much for one cord, or too much for the Wago is what you're saying? Safety first i hear ya

Quick question I Have 4 citi 1212's, i pull 12 watts at wall when dimmed all the way down and 218 watts when all the way up, is this an acceptable range. After doing a little math i think each COB is running at 39V. I have a MW HLG-185H-C1400B.

Kenny Grows said:

So do you mean give each driver its own wall plug?

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Exactly. If you have access to Lowes or Home Depot there are a lot of male 15A plugs to choose from. I like the hinged style just for ease of assembly.

Kenny Grows said:

Quick question I Have 4 citi 1212's, i pull 12 watts at wall when dimmed all the way down and 218 watts when all the way up, is this an acceptable range. After doing a little math i think each COB is running at 39V. I have a MW HLG-185H-C1400B.

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It's not enough for your 2x4 space, but that's why you're looking at supplementing, right?

Citizen.1212C4.3000K 4 COBS @1.4A
8 SQ.FT. CANOPY 95% EFFICIENT DRIVER @12 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 212.63
Cobs power watts: 202
Total voltage forward: 144
Total lumens: 29492
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 81
Total PPF: 393.66
PPFD based on canopy area: 529.66
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 10.13
Cob efficiency: 44.51%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 25.25
Voltage forward per cob: 36.1
Lumens per watt: 146.0
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $0.62
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $9.69
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $14.28

Kenny Grows said:

I want to use Wagos and put all positive wires in a wago all negatives in a second one and all ground wires in third wago, and we're talking only on the AC side, right just want to double check.

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its fine if you put them inside of a junction box. the wagos are rated for all the current and voltage you need. they are not rated at all for strain relief from hippies tripping over wires

Rider509 thanks for all the numbers. It's going to take half a day to figure out what some of those numbers mean, then the rest the day to learn to replicate it. But I am here to learn.
CobKits it sounds like I might be better off using a junction box even with just the one driver?

naw with one driver just throw a cord end on it

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Double-Pole-3-Wire-Grounding-Plug-Black-R50-3W101-00E/205165472

I get what CobKits is saying, but given that you're new to this stuff I'd suggest you just stick with the plug. A j-box is still going to need strain relief because... hippies. LOL

Yellow plugs are way more sexy, CobKit.