Flowering problems . whitish brown spots on leaves PLEASE HELP!

STX.OrganicGuerilla

Active Member
well if all the nutes in the soil are used up... what are the microbes going to eat???? microbes eat nutrients and turn them into plant food, the plant can only take in what the microbes excrete out or what is dissolvable in water. you'd be better off topdressing new nutrients and covering them with a mulch, which will feed the microbes, which will feed the plant....
I've had subs supersoil cooking in a bin for a few months, I just reamended it with some ewc and guano, I got a nice mycelium fuzz growing around some oats I threw in there.
With this soil, is it ok to transplant a 3 week established plant into this mix? or layer it like subcool with a buffer soil to introduce the roots slowly?
And what type of tea would I want to brew to feed this soil mix? if any.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I've had subs supersoil cooking in a bin for a few months, I just reamended it with some ewc and guano, I got a nice mycelium fuzz growing around some oats I threw in there.
With this soil, is it ok to transplant a 3 week established plant into this mix? or layer it like subcool with a buffer soil to introduce the roots slowly?
And what type of tea would I want to brew to feed this soil mix? if any.
i dont have any experience with sub's recipe.... however....

if your mix has been in the bin for a few months.... i gotta ask you... why are you putting MORE guano in it? I think you're missing the idea that matter is neither created nor destroyed. all the stuff you put in that mix when you made it is still in that mix. it just exists in the forms of bacteria and fungal bodies. when those things die, they die IN the mix, and are consumed by more bacteria and fungi. the only way you lose nutrients from the soil is A) stuff that is soluble washes out when you water due to runoff (which runoff is unnecessary in organic growing IMO), or B) the plant takes it out of the soil to build plant tissues (the main cause for nutrients to leave the soil)

IMO, that mix would be quite hot to put a 3 week plant into, as plants that are vegging really don't require a strong mix. and likely thats why sub layers his containers when he transplants to flower. bottom layer is the full strength mix for when the plant start to bloom a few weeks after the transplant (which to me is wrong because most all plants feed in the upper root zone more so than the bottom root zone because in nature that's where the organic matter breaking down is at!), and then his upper layer is for the couple weeks in veg before flipping. but to me... this is just too much work lol. I like having one mix that works for all periods of growth, and if i need to top dress some P-K stuff for flowering, it's much simpler!

FWIW I don't use sub's mix because it contains products that are nasty to be around (bone and blood meals, guanos), and also IMO it doesn't contain enough organic matter (humus forms of EWC and compost). i'm not saying it doesn't work, because it does and we've all seen the evidence. i just prefer the cleaner more sustainable ingredients for my own reasons. not to mention... that shit be expensive!!! all those ingredients?? that's a fuck ton more that what I put into my mix. building a soil from scratch is the only way :bigjoint:
 
Last edited:

STX.OrganicGuerilla

Active Member
i dont have any experience with sub's recipe.... however....

if your mix has been in the bin for a few months.... i gotta ask you... why are you putting MORE guano in it? I think you're missing the idea that matter is neither created nor destroyed. all the stuff you put in that mix when you made it is still in that mix. it just exists in the forms of bacteria and fungal bodies. when those things die, they die IN the mix, and are consumed by more bacteria and fungi. the only way you lose nutrients from the soil is A) stuff that is soluble washes out when you water due to runoff (which runoff is unnecessary in organic growing IMO), or B) the plant takes it out of the soil to build plant tissues (the main cause for nutrients to leave the soil)

IMO, that mix would be quite hot to put a 3 week plant into, as plants that are vegging really don't require a strong mix. and likely thats why sub layers his containers when he transplants to flower. bottom layer is the full strength mix for when the plant start to bloom a few weeks after the transplant (which to me is wrong because most all plants feed in the upper root zone more so than the bottom root zone because in nature that's where the organic matter breaking down is at!), and then his upper layer is for the couple weeks in veg before flipping. but to me... this is just too much work lol. I like having one mix that works for all periods of growth, and if i need to top dress some P-K stuff for flowering, it's much simpler!

FWIW I don't use sub's mix because it contains products that are nasty to be around (bone and blood meals, guanos), and also IMO it doesn't contain enough organic matter (humus forms of EWC and compost). i'm not saying it doesn't work, because it does and we've all seen the evidence. i just prefer the cleaner more sustainable ingredients for my own reasons. not to mention... that shit be expensive!!! all those ingredients?? that's a fuck ton more that what I put into my mix. building a soil from scratch is the only way :bigjoint:
could I add some worms to my mix? I like the idea of living soil.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
maybe once the mix settles in and you have a plant in the pot or something you could put a few in it and see what happens though. just start small and see if they try and escape!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
could I add some worms to my mix? I like the idea of living soil.
yes!
Go buy 20 bucks worth or reds and you are done. that mycelium you were talking about is worm food essentially
i dunno.... probably too hot for them.... but i dont know for sure
Worms are pretty smart in that regard, when I reamended my compost with alfalfa it got steamy hot pretty quick, and the worms just stuck to the sides, and they worked themselves in, worms move damn fast when they get warm..
 
Last edited:

STX.OrganicGuerilla

Active Member
yes!
Go buy 20 bucks worth or reds and you are done. that mycelium you were talking about is worm food essentially
myceliumfuzz2.jpg myceliumfuzz.jpg This is the good stuff right?!
Worms are pretty smart in that regard, when I reamended my compost with alfalfa it got steamy hot pretty quick, and the worms just stuck to the sides, and they worked themselves in, worms move damn fast when they get warm..
 

STX.OrganicGuerilla

Active Member
This is my experimental 12/12 baby from a reggie bag seed.
She's had a few issues with climate and suspected light leak causing weird growth.
Cold fronts, then 80 degrees the next day, causing heat stress and burn.
Basically, I should call her "Murphey" lol. But take a look. Be honest.IMG_0041.JPG
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
This is my experimental 12/12 baby from a reggie bag seed.
She's had a few issues with climate and suspected light leak causing weird growth.
Cold fronts, then 80 degrees the next day, causing heat stress and burn.
Basically, I should call her "Murphey" lol. But take a look. Be honest.View attachment 3891721
yeah you been having some light stress issues for sure.

have you not been in your room with the lights off and the door/zipper closed????? or maybe it's just not liking 12/12 right from seed.... i never done that before so i wouldn't know what happens :)

also you seem to have some slight N clawing going on the leaf tips.

all in all it doesn't look bad other than the stress factors you know?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
This is my experimental 12/12 baby from a reggie bag seed.
She's had a few issues with climate and suspected light leak causing weird growth.
Cold fronts, then 80 degrees the next day, causing heat stress and burn.
Basically, I should call her "Murphey" lol. But take a look. Be honest.View attachment 3891721
doesn't look THAT bad man
but it DOES look to be quasi-regenerated..
all those single blade leaves...
did you change the light schedule ever?
or like shluby asked, any weird light irregularities?
i'd put that bitch under a 11/13 schedule though.
it may be a lil more equatorial and possibly want a longer night..
wiiiiith uninterrupted darkness of course..
 

STX.OrganicGuerilla

Active Member
Yeah exactly what happened and that's exactly what I've done. controlling light by covering her at night with a trashcan lol. seems like its helping and she keeps getting fatter.
just gonna let her go a few weeks maybe and cut her down.
maybe attempt an aloe cloning..
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
dry just hang her in 50% humidity if possible for about 6 days. then take the sugar leaves off and put the buds in a jar. then you slowly work out the moisture by opening the jar for several hours every 24 hours or so until it's dry, but not so dry that it turns into powder when you cut it up to smoke
 
Top