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Flushing to get rid of nutrient lock out?ho

Discussion in 'Newbie Central' started by Jasonlovestogrow, Nov 14, 2017.

  1.  
    Jasonlovestogrow

    Jasonlovestogrow Member

    I flushed my plant because I thought I had nutrient lock out dew to yellowing leaves on the top half of the plant. My first flush the run off was 1900 so I flushed again and got my run Off down to 900 so I decided to flush a third time and I got it down to 180. My question is what's an ok ppm to call it good and flushed on? I'm growing in fox farms soil but I'm close to harvest judging by my trichromes so I know the soil doesn't have any more nuts in it or at least I wouldn't think it would anyways. Please help me better understand what correct run off ppm's are when flushing to get rid of nutrient lock out? Thanks
     
  2.  
    chemphlegm

    chemphlegm Well-Known Member

    at close to harvest, your leaves were fading as your plant was finishing. you flushed and killed 100% of your subsoil fungi web, most of your beneficial organisms and robbed your root zone of oxygen for days in a row..your harvest has suffered. stop with the water flushes. stop feeding nutrients. allow that soil to dry out, if it will. Your plant is most definitely locked up now, watch how long it takes to dry out, for lack of up take/metabolism/root zone action
    keep your input ppm's correct and your output ppm's are moot.
    I grow with a slow release chicken shit compost, never check ppm's in run off, never have more than a drop of run off, add the same amount of water each time the soil is dry and I never flush. I do skip the addition of fertilizer as my plant is finishing.
    flushing your soil may rid some salts in it but they did not rid any salts in your plant, doesnt work like that.

    best you can do is wait till soil dries, harvest if ready, water lightly until if not. stop feeding
     
    TCH likes this.
  3.  
    Jasonlovestogrow

    Jasonlovestogrow Member

    So let it dry out then just keep watering with ph'd osmosis till it's ready? I have 60/40 milky white/ clear trichromes no amber. Also What if it doesn't dry out? Also I just found a very small amount of spider mites on my plant which I just treated this morning before lights on. Checked after lights came back on and there's still some alive. Should I draw out harvest and keep treating or should I go ahead and harvest after just one more treatment, or should I harvest and treat while drying? I'm using green cleaner. Thanks for the reply even tho it made my heart sink and sorry I'm such a newb. Glad your taking the time out of your day to help me! Thanks for that
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017
    420x024 likes this.
  4.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    Post pics pls would have a better idea of what we're dealing with
     
  5.  
    chemphlegm

    chemphlegm Well-Known Member

    stop watering until soil is dryer to the bottom of the pot. water small after its dry, when its dry again.
    I would have cut here down the moment I saw bugs. I would not treat for mites, maybe a vacuum, ice water dip.
    suggest you cut a bud and dry it, try it, judge it, cut it if ready.
    if your plant doesnt dry up you may as well cut it soon it'll taste like shit and start molding if you dont
     
  6.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    Wel
    Well no depends on the situation he could treat it with a bit of milk diluted with soap. If the grow area is heavily unsanitary (by medical standards, well most clean bud standards) then I agree. That' why a picture would help decide if it's ok to make a comeback or it' time to abort
     
  7.  
    Jasonlovestogrow

    Jasonlovestogrow Member

    What's the best way to dry it fast to try it out?
     
  8.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    Don' Water it you can't dry it out any other way. Increasing temps stresses plants and promotes male flowering to appear and all kinds of shit
     
  9.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    They there' still hope I think that what you'e seeing is nutrient burn but these girls are swelling and using lots of nutrients in the phase when they fatten up but it just could be a sign of heavy feeding as everything looks pretty healthy
    What are you giving them for nutrients? What did you give them thIs time that you think burned them?
    How much did you over water?
    Are the mites on one branch?

    Sometimes it's better to cut the whole nug off it seems from my extensive reading on mites and pest control as I've done everything in my power to prevent all kinds of pests

    if you do end up cutting off the roach a rama buds and cut to the middle, give it a nice cure in a proper environment (or very dry if you want to sample it in like 30 mins) and youll have an idea if youll be happy harvesting now or not.

    That said judging by the size of your tent a good wipe down with bleach will reduce chances of bugs coming back but make sure you wash with a wet towel, vent and dry the room after too and give your plants a good spray of a natural mite repellent or a good home remedy
     
  10.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    Oh just read that one plant has mites.
    If you don' mind tossing one plant it may save the others and you will gain what you lost in that one plant with the fact that the I'm infected plants will thrive in place granted the infection hasn' made it there yet and you get to it in time.
    Here's a guide for mites like I said, do everything you can that this guy says and maybe you'l get w very nice unexpected outcome :D http://www.rollitup.org/t/how-to-kill-spider-mites-100-naturally-no-chemicals.475307/
     
  11.  
    Jasonlovestogrow

    Jasonlovestogrow Member

    I'm giving them a salt based nutrient line from my local grow shop. I ran like six gallons of water through two of them and like three through the third, I didn't flush the blue dream or the other gc that I have in dirt. My 4 hydro pots are still getting fed no flush yet. Should I go ahead and cut the blue dream down and dry it or will the bugs take over still if I do that? There's not a ton of them but I know they supposedly get out of control fast
     
  12.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    Good chance they won't take over if u do not let it stay long and go do it now. But that' only a chance. A good one though better than 100% assured that they will be everywhere in 24 hours. Generally if you noticed it today you're gold but yesterday it's iffy.
    I use pots that are 10 gallons and I give an 2 gallons between 5 from a watering can spread evenly with the eye.
    My reccomenadtion is .5 a gallon to maximum 1 gallon per 3 to 5 days and never flush. Just give em water every week for 3 weeks and nothin else. No 2x water no chemical additive to remove salts I'm also where you are first time grower and learning from some old heads.
    Basically by giving your plant 6 gallons you flood your roots. That causes them to lose oxygen like previous guy stated and also promoted fermentation in the nuggs causing alcoholic like sugars to form and that will rot verrry fast especially if you have more than one week to go in flower. Like i said man im literally in fourth week of flower and its my first time. I wanna see you do well too :D post more pics of the grow as it goes I'd like to see How it goes in a few weeks :)
     
  13.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    H
    Hey if possible, treat the infected plant and place under a t5 flower spectrum not even in a tent but a nice area if you are on a buget for a couple more weeks to ripen. Just suggestions to help
     
  14.  
    420x024

    420x024 Member

    Just put the infected one far away from the survivors! Think of it like the walking dead and thebway zombie infections work
     
  15.  
    chemphlegm

    chemphlegm Well-Known Member

    I set my dry room controls according to jorge cervantes grow bible some years ago. 50-54% and around 73 f I think.
     
    420x024 likes this.
  16.  
    Buba Blend

    Buba Blend Well-Known Member

    Pics would be nice.

    Combine what you learn here with outside sources.
    If you don't have or can't get the books use growweedeasy.com
    If you can get the books:
    Marijuana Horticulture: The Indoor/Outdoor Medical Grower's Bible
    or
    Marijuana Grower's Handbook by Ed Rosenthal

    Your question:
    Please help me better understand what correct run off ppm's are when flushing to get rid of nutrient lock out?
    This question is hard to answer without you doing some homework.
    As an example. One way to cause a nutrient lock out is to water to often and not let the soil dry out.
    If that was your problem, having a lock out because the soil is being kept to wet, then the correct action would be to let the pots dry out, the wrong course of action would be to flush.
     

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