Fox Farm Nutrients?

Okay so I've grown some decent stuff just using straight Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil and tap water.
But now I'm starting to use the ph up and down, still the same fox farm ocean forest soil, and fox farm nutrients.

I've included the Fox Farm Soil Schedule in this thread.

what Info. I'm looking to find is

1. What nutrients (all) do I use when growing in Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil? Do I use all the nutrients offered in the schedule or just the first 3 listed in the following list? (Grow Big, Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom, Flowers Kiss, Boomerang, Kangaroots, Microbe Brew, Wholly Mackerel, Kelp Me Kelp You, Bembe, Open Sesame, Beastie Bloomz, Cha Ching)

2. Now I understand the feeding schedule that comes with the Nutes., but WHEN do I start using the nutrients and HOW MUCH do I use after my clones root and I transplant into "Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil". (considering day 1 is the day the clones are transplanted.)

3. Also when transplanting what is the ideal pot size in (gal.) to transplant the clone into if I'm only maxing at a 3 Gal. bucket?

ok soooooo here we go.... your soil has perlite and oystershells so it is ph buffering....no need to use ph up and down....u are good with just the trio the others are additives that are helpfull but unneccesary.... from cup and ending in a 3 gallon pot id veg no more then three weeks so maybe cup , gallon pot, when u see roots at the bottom of pot in your drain holes transplant to 3 gallon wait 3 days then flip to flower ... this is all just my opinion of course i use fox farm trio (the first three) every other feeding.... i also use Cal mag but go with 3ml per gallon , superthrive at seeding 1 time, and at every transplant... i also like to add advancet nutes BIG BUD weeks 2-4 of flower.... i have never used fox farms soil but i dont usually feed any nutes other then the calmag (for stronger structure and superthrive for root stimulation and vigor) for the first week or two....i wait for them to look hungry for nutes (yellowiing , slow growth , etc )

nitrogen deficiency will usually show first which is why i say yellowing...

I don't know what this guys talking about i've always needed to adjust PH when using Ocean forest. as far as when to begin your nutrient schedule, start when you notice the first deficiencies showing up, usually the first one will be a nitrogen deficiency (yellowing of leaves towards the bottom of the plant).

I've noticed in ocean forest soil you can leave a new clone in a 3 gallon container for about 2-3 weeks depending on the strain. When I used FF nutes I didn't mess around with anything but the main 3 (grow big/tiger bloom/big bloom) and I got some nice results. I've since moved onto organic living soil so im gonna see how that works out..

Also check out smart pots great for air pruning your roots so your plant doesn't become root bound.

Thank's to both of you. @bbyb420. what is your take on 1st transplant for fresh clones, directly to the 3 gal. bucket or what daloudpack said with starting with a cup or 1 gal?

like i said i dont use ff soil but ph buffering is ph buffering , no mater what u ph ur water to its gonna end in whatever it buffers too... check ur soils ph bbyb420 not the feeding the soil its self... if it is indeed ph buffering it will be around 7 when dry .... not sure how u dont know about ph buffering soil but it is what it is ...ph can be a bitch even more helpfull would be to add 2 teaspoons of dolomite lime to your soil to MAKE SURE it doesnt swing

Also should I ease into the nutrients by going half strength or should I just jump right into it once their ready for em?
Also if I'm sticking to the about 3 week mark should I use the week for feeding guidelines in the chart that I attached rather then week 3 so I can efficiently switch everything to bloom?
@bbyb420 @daloudpack

daloudpack said:

like i said i dont use ff soil but ph buffering is ph buffering , no mater what u ph ur water to its gonna end in whatever it buffers too... check ur soils ph bbyb420 not the feeding the soil its self... if it is indeed ph buffering it will be around 7 when dry .... not sure how u dont know about ph buffering soil but it is what it is ...ph can be a bitch even more helpfull would be to add 2 teaspoons of dolomite lime to your soil to MAKE SURE it doesnt swing

Click to expand...

I've actually been searching for ways to test the soil's ph but can't find anything? How do I do this just check the water in the cache that comes out of the bottom of the pot ooooor? 0.o

kmf said:

Also should I ease into the nutrients by going half strength or should I just jump right into it once their ready for em?
Also if I'm sticking to the about 3 week mark should I use the week for feeding guidelines in the chart that I attached rather then week 3 so I can efficiently switch everything to bloom?
@bbyb420 @daloudpack

Click to expand...

You can transplant into 1 gallon first or 3 gallon sometimes I just transplant into its final home immediately but if im trying to save on space I do solo cups, 1 gallon, 3 gallon, then 5 gallon.

I always start feeding with 1/4 strength nutes then work my way up as needed. Try to use the feeding schedule as more of a guideline, and remember less is more on nutes, a slightly underfed plant is better than one thats over fertilized.

Fox farms soil is already PH adjusted to 6.3 I believe so if you PH adjust your water every time you should never have to worry about PH.

Id start at 25% strength and work your way up slowly.

testing ur soils run off is pointless @kmf .... u get a soil ph tester its like a prong u stick in the dirt u can get it at any garden center

this is what they look like http://www.agrisupply.com/product.aspx?p=82377&sid=asf10&eid=Easf10&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=MerchAdv&zmam=77232640&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=82377&gclid=CjwKEAjwv8iwBRC35-_e8aPqwCESJAB8khP9euPXX397XFiGX-TOZGCgkYsGspyZLRonE7lo9mDZKhoC44_w_wcB

This is interesting check this out @bbyb420

daloudpack said:

this is what they look like http://www.agrisupply.com/product.aspx?p=82377&sid=asf10&eid=Easf10&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=MerchAdv&zmam=77232640&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=82377&gclid=CjwKEAjwv8iwBRC35-_e8aPqwCESJAB8khP9euPXX397XFiGX-TOZGCgkYsGspyZLRonE7lo9mDZKhoC44_w_wcB

Click to expand...

Thank you

@bbyb420 i found this interesting after researching a little bit of what daloupack said. Check out the link read through it a little after I did it made sense. http://www.420magazine.com/forums/frequently-asked-questions/211336-foxfarm-soil-ph.html

kmf said:

This is interesting check this out @bbyb420


Thank you

Click to expand...

I don't know much about those I just make sure I PH adjust everything going into my soil and i've been fine so far been doing it like that since I started growing. Never used an actual soil PH tester like that before, only the one you use for water.

BigEasy1 said:

Id start at 25% strength and work your way up slowly.

Click to expand...

Ok sweet thank you for that

One last question where is a good place to post my grow so i can keep it updated and use it as a reference so I can ask questions along the way?

yes bby im sure ur ph is fine becasue it is ph buffering , u phing ur water has nothing to do with it .... id agree with starting at 25% as since ph buffering soil is higher in alkalinity it alows more nutrient absorbtion..... this is me at 4 weeks veg never ph adjusting once

from seed by the way

in your grow journal on this site KMF
if you click that little b in my picture it will show u my journal